CHANGSTAR: Audiophile Headphone Reviews and Early 90s Style BBS
Lobby => Headphone, IEM, and Other Audio Related Discussion => Topic started by: MuppetFace on March 04, 2013, 10:29:33 AM
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Avast, this is the thread for people to ask for help when it comes to recommending gear and whatnot. Be as specific as possible: your budget, preferences, pre-existing gear, whatevs might be important. Don't just ask generic "what's good?" questions. That you can find out by browsing around.
Go nuts.
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All Genres possible of music... What amp can give me the most realistic/natural sound possible out of an hd800? I would rather have a cohesive sound over an ultra detailed yet slightly detached sound. I would rather have a more natural timbre over super wide sound etc... One amp without budgetary constraints and one under 1k dollars. What amps would they be? :)p1
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What amp can give me the most realistic/natural sound possible ....
... One amp without budgetary constraints and one under 1k dollars :)p1
O2 after all..... what's there left to design ? :)p13
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Under 1k? Probably the Mjolnir if you don't want to mess with tubes. Just make sure you don't skimp on the source. Any hint of dryness, etch and glare in the upper registers will only be magnified and laid bare when it gets to the HD800.
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What amp can give me the most realistic/natural sound possible ....
... One amp without budgetary constraints and one under 1k dollars :)p1
O2 after all..... what's there left to design ? :)p13
I have one already... so i guess I am set bwaahahahahaha
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A few thoughts... Not sure they meet your specific requirements, but they are some amps I like with the HD-800.
Without budget constraints: Hard to not recommend the ECBA here, right?
Just at the $1k mark, slightly over considering you'll need tubes... WA6SE. Used, under $1k easy.
All Genres possible of music... What amp can give me the most realistic/natural sound possible out of an hd800? I would rather have a cohesive sound over an ultra detailed yet slightly detached sound. I would rather have a more natural timbre over super wide sound etc... One amp without budgetary constraints and one under 1k dollars. What amps would they be? :)p1
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hi - at it again (sorry guys, ended up returning a few closed/portable headphones I tried and did not quite like - hoping IEM will be more satisfactory)...
IEM ~$500 (willing to stretch a bit, ok with buying used) with preferably not too much bass, nor too much treble. I like mids to be good.
I think non-fatiguing is key here, a clean presentation without bad spikes would be desired... just not sure if I can find that easily.
I don't like bi/tri-flange tips, do much prefer something like Sony Hybrid tips. comfort is quite important for long listening too.
source is iPad 4th gen but actually kind of looking for something more portable for when I don't bring a bag, so something neat small would be nice if you could recommend.
just tried: Sony MDR-1R (sooo comfy... just a bit too much bass and some oddities going on in upper mids? not quite sure what it was... a bit overly smooth perhaps), Sennheiser Momentum (my ears are too big :( sound is pretty good, wish it was less V-shaped but otherwise nice), UE6000 (bit bassy for my taste, tad too warm/smooth) as well as Beyerdynamic DT1350 (couldn't get a good fit/seal and treble kind of... was super thin. might have had a bad pair)
also demo'ed a pair of Amperior which were just too V-shaped to work for me. not bad though.
I do understand if I am being too picky here, but I heard IEM's have come a long way.
these will be my main 'phone for a longer time, so I'm being more hopeful than I should.
and also another recommendation: active speakers for ~$300? or passive+amp totalling around that too?
something nice and clear to upgrade from a pair of Logitech computer speakers.
I think same goes for this as above for sound?
for a friends b-day, who just got a new gaming corner set up (will of course be used for music and TV/movies too).
will be used together with the FiiO E17's DAC which I TBH have very little idea of how it sounds with anything else than Logitech speakers (using the Line-Out Dock to bypass the internal amp)
hopefully not asking too much here, just checking mostly to see if I should give up or save up! sorry for the mess, and thanks.
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Any thoughts to going with a custom IEM? If you're good up to around $500 there are some decent custom options available. UE 4 Pro comes to mind.
hi - at it again (sorry guys, ended up returning a few closed/portable headphones I tried and did not quite like - hoping IEM will be more satisfactory)...
IEM ~$500 (willing to stretch a bit, ok with buying used) with preferably not too much bass, nor too much treble. I like mids to be good.
I think non-fatiguing is key here, a clean presentation without bad spikes would be desired... just not sure if I can find that easily.
I don't like bi/tri-flange tips, do much prefer something like Sony Hybrid tips. comfort is quite important for long listening too.
source is iPad 4th gen but actually kind of looking for something more portable for when I don't bring a bag, so something neat small would be nice if you could recommend.
just tried: Sony MDR-1R (sooo comfy... just a bit too much bass and some oddities going on in upper mids? not quite sure what it was... a bit overly smooth perhaps), Sennheiser Momentum (my ears are too big :( sound is pretty good, wish it was less V-shaped but otherwise nice), UE6000 (bit bassy for my taste, tad too warm/smooth) as well as Beyerdynamic DT1350 (couldn't get a good fit/seal and treble kind of... was super thin. might have had a bad pair)
also demo'ed a pair of Amperior which were just too V-shaped to work for me. not bad though.
I do understand if I am being too picky here, but I heard IEM's have come a long way.
these will be my main 'phone for a longer time, so I'm being more hopeful than I should.
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and also another recommendation: active speakers for ~$300? or passive+amp totalling around that too?
something nice and clear to upgrade from a pair of Logitech computer speakers.
I think same goes for this as above for sound?
for a friends b-day, who just got a new gaming corner set up (will of course be used for music and TV/movies too).
will be used together with the FiiO E17's DAC which I TBH have very little idea of how it sounds with anything else than Logitech speakers (using the Line-Out Dock to bypass the internal amp)
I really like Audioengine A2s, which can be had for <$200. Surprisingly enough, the dinky little stands that they charge $25-$30 for actually do make more than just an aesthetic difference. Got mine + the stands for ~$150 new on Massdrop, think I saw a refurb for even cheaper on clearance at Shoreline. The bass is slightly emphasized, but clarity is very good; leaps and bounds ahead of my old Bose speakers. Positioning is important, had to fiddle around a bit to get the best I could out of them.
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and also another recommendation: active speakers for ~$300? or passive+amp totalling around that too?
something nice and clear to upgrade from a pair of Logitech computer speakers.
Swan M200MKII, $279 from The Audio Insider. Alternatively, there are a lot of studio monitors you can buy for that amount - Rokit5s, Eris E5s, and Mackie MR5 MK2s being the big ones. The KRKs and Mackies you can probably audition at a place like Guitar Center, the PreSonus you'll likely have to order. As long as you get it from a shop that offers free return shipping, that's NBD.
I wouldn't bother with passives for that sort of money, you're gonna be looking at bargain basement speakers and cheap Tripath amps. Not worth it.
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@ munch:
For universals I'd suggest looking into the Sony MDR-7550 / EX800ST (they're the same thing) or new EarSonics SM64.
The thing with customs to remember is that there are additional fees. You'll need to pay for custom artwork if you want it, getting impressions done, shipping both ways, and potentially more shipping costs if you need a refit. So while you can find decent customs for 500 USD or so, the cost is going to climb higher.
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Good point, the UE 4 are sort of stripped down... No custom art, no fancy carrying cases, etc... But at $399 and say $50 for impressions you should be able to get them shipped home under 5 bills.
I'm actually working on ordering a pair now as a second custom. Some of us think they are a bit under rated...
I'm just high on customs now, universals just fall short for me now.
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Good point, the UE 4 are sort of stripped down... No custom art, no fancy carrying cases, etc... But at $399 and say $50 for impressions you should be able to get them shipped home under 5 bills.
I'm actually working on ordering a pair now as a second custom. Some of us think they are a bit under rated...
I'm just high on customs now, universals just fall short for me now.
Customs are awesome. I don't have much experience with any under $800, unfortunately.
You just have to know what you're getting into and keep your expectations reasonable, or you could end up really disappointed with something that has terrible resale value. My first customs were pretty much a disaster; had to go through several refits, and in the end they sounded no better than a lot of universals.
Second time around was a much better experience because I was better prepared.
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Munch: If you haven't already, take a look at they Etymotic ER-4S (I personally prefer the S over the P as it sounds clearer and with better treble, but the P has more bass quantity, which is pointless because it still doesn't have that much bass". Another that comes to mind that is overlooked is the Shure SE425.
@Muppet: What are your thoughts on the T-Peos H-100? I'm just curious because I'm next on the tour and so far no one seems to be liking it and desperately trying to finding positive attributes associated with the H-100
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@Muppet: What are your thoughts on the T-Peos H-100? I'm just curious because I'm next on the tour and so far no one seems to be liking it and desperately trying to finding positive attributes associated with the H-100
In a word? Terrible. My impressions were posted in the tour thread on head-fi if you want to read the details.
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Dave, I remember you saying in the chat that the PS Audio power conditioners weren't all that for their cost, but have you had positive experiences with power conditioners in general, and are there any you'd recommend? I'm curious as to whether or not the NAD M51 is impaired by its PSU or something, and I was actually getting a bit of noise the last time I used my "main rig."
Could anyone else recommend decent power conditioners?
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Dave, I remember you saying in the chat that the PS Audio power conditioners weren't all that for their cost, but have you had positive experiences with power conditioners in general, and are there any you'd recommend? I'm curious as to whether or not the NAD M51 is impaired by its PSU or something, and I was actually getting a bit of noise the last time I used my "main rig."
Yeah, I wasn't blown away by the Power Plant. There are a few I'd suggest checking out. 1. B-P-T. Chris' CPC filters and his BP balanced Iso transformers are excellent, and cost a lot less than most of the other guys doing the same types of conditioners. 2. Running Springs. Very expensive, so you'd want to look on the used market for those. 3. Audio-Magic, either The Q or the Mini Reference II. I have very limited experience with them, but what I've heard has been very positive. Definitely something I need to try for myself.
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any portable amp that is alot smaller and its sound is close to a lisa3?
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Which B-P-T products have you tried? I'm tempted by that BP-1 Ultra. I mean, that should be more than adequate for a NAD M51 and an EC Electra, right?
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@ Muppet: I really don't have high hopes for these, but with all things, I'll try to have an open mind when I receive them from you.
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any portable amp that is alot smaller and its sound is close to a lisa3?
Portaphile 627 is your closest bet. Takes a bit to warm up and not so long to run out of battery.
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Which B-P-T products have you tried? I'm tempted by that BP-1 Ultra. I mean, that should be more than adequate for a NAD M51 and an EC Electra, right?
PMed
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Any thoughts to going with a custom IEM? If you're good up to around $500 there are some decent custom options available. UE 4 Pro comes to mind.
been thinking of it yeah, but it'll add up to quite a bit more with the fitting and such no? would honestly prefer not to, resale value and possibility of having to refit and such... but I am definitely looking them up, thanks!
got any measurements or so? :)
err I forgot to click post and went away - just saw the new posts...
at 399 that could be interesting though. I think it's doomed to have import fees to Canada though maybe? sorry for forgetting to mention that.
not ruling them out at all though!
MuppetFace: I had not even heard of the Sony ones, just looked up a review and they do seem promising. will try to find some more info about it.
much intrigued. friend really likes the EX1000 minus slight treble boost... and we share tastes.
the Earsonics I think I read being very trebly/sibilant? or am I confusing them with another model. will have to re-read up on them.
thanks!
planx: I have, unfortunately comfort issues with those for me. however I did find that the FitEar F111 uses the same driver but with a nicer shell and all that fun stuff, though very little information about them. and suspecting price tag to be a bit above $500... any idea on this one?
SE425? if they are very different from 535 that could be worth looking at, found the bass of 535 to be a bit overly bassy but I just came from ATH-CK100 which were bass-poor... so not sure really anymore. but I'll read up on the 425's. thanks!
HideousPride: yeah I was looking at those. the store I went to only had the 5's for demo... the price surely is tempting, heh. plus they look nice and clean. keep hearing good things about them. more reading to do! thanks!
DaveBSC: how about the MK3? I found a pair used for less than $300. or are the 2's better? I will definitely look around for places to demo at, I've seen a lot of local DJ's use Mackies... think studio monitors would be suited for general usage?
and yeah wasn't expecting much from $300 passive so not too surprised there. thanks a lot, will see what I can find on these.
and thanks once more! lots of new stuff I had no idea about... :)
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DaveBSC: how about the MK3? I found a pair used for less than $300. or are the 2's better? I will definitely look around for places to demo at, I've seen a lot of local DJ's use Mackies... think studio monitors would be suited for general usage?
and yeah wasn't expecting much from $300 passive so not too surprised there. thanks a lot, will see what I can find on these.
and thanks once more! lots of new stuff I had no idea about... :)
The MK3 is much better than the 2. The wood side panels are actually made of wood and look much better, the amps are upgraded, and there are a few other tweaks. I just ignored them because the list price is $429. For less than $300 they would be very tough to beat. You can use studio monitors for pretty much anything, though the cheap ones will have limited power so you'll need to check that they can get loud enough without straining.
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Am I going to be satisfied with the TH900s out of Shipsupt's old Gilmore Lite, or should I re-terminate to use it balanced with my upcoming balanced Dynahi?
Or, alternatively, will there be little to no difference out of my DAC2's HP out?
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I thought I posted a while ago but I guess it didn't go through.
So those of you guys with the UERM, what amp/dap/source pairing do you find reaching for most often? Would this change if the goal was to enjoy music rather than listening for detail/resolution?
Cheers
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DaveBSC: how about the MK3? I found a pair used for less than $300. or are the 2's better? I will definitely look around for places to demo at, I've seen a lot of local DJ's use Mackies... think studio monitors would be suited for general usage?
and yeah wasn't expecting much from $300 passive so not too surprised there. thanks a lot, will see what I can find on these.
and thanks once more! lots of new stuff I had no idea about... :)
The MK3 is much better than the 2. The wood side panels are actually made of wood and look much better, the amps are upgraded, and there are a few other tweaks. I just ignored them because the list price is $429. For less than $300 they would be very tough to beat. You can use studio monitors for pretty much anything, though the cheap ones will have limited power so you'll need to check that they can get loud enough without straining.
ahh... well damn, just missed out on that deal. just got sold. how do the others compare?
anyone know about the Emotiva Airmotiv 4? might be able to get for ~$300
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Hello, I'm looking for a combo DAC/amp that can be powered by USB. Looking to spend up to $1000 and upgrade from my DACport (with 1 ohm option) which I am using with my Audio Technica ATH-W1000X (42 ohm) and Fostex TH-900 (25 ohm). (Curiously enough to me, the W1000X still gets plenty of use even after I purchased the TH-900)
I've searched up and been suggested a few things such as the Dragonfly, and the Fostex HP-A3 and the HeadAmp pico (USB DAC/amp), Leckerton UHA-6S.MKII, but I have had trouble finding direct comparisons for general sound quality being compared to the DACport. I'm not exactly sure what improvements I'm looking for as the DACport is probably the highest end DAC/amp that I have heard - haven't heard any audio equipment besides that which I own.
I would prefer something with a 1/4" headphone jack and with a pot that doesn't have too much channel imbalance at low volume if possible, though that part about the headphone jack size doesn't matter that much.
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Am I going to be satisfied with the TH900s out of Shipsupt's old Gilmore Lite, or should I re-terminate to use it balanced with my upcoming balanced Dynahi?
Or, alternatively, will there be little to no difference out of my DAC2's HP out?
FWIW the D7000 was really nice from the G-Lite.
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I hated the Gilmore lite with DPS with my hd600s. I just thought the combo sounded lifeless. I like the CMOY even better than the Glite with that combo. That could have been due to using different dacs though but I am just sharing an observation.
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I have a friend who is looking for some speaker amps in 2-6k range for driving a pair of Harbeths, while he is currently looking at Audio Note's amps, he would love other suggestions as well and I figured that I might as well ask here. He is looking at 30 to 50+W.
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back to my inquiry about hd800 amps... What can anyone say about the spl phonitor?
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back to my inquiry about hd800 amps... What can anyone say about the spl phonitor?
The geek in me so wants to hear phone of those things!
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back to my inquiry about hd800 amps... What can anyone say about the spl phonitor?
The geek in me so wants to hear phone of those things!
I own a phonitor and HD800. I've had it for a year now and it has been my primary rig up until last week. I bought an S7 and haven't looked back.
I've written some more information below but here is the TLDR: It's good but overpriced. Don't buy one unless you can find it for maybe a grand, which is way less than what they go for. Last I checked they still went for 1400-1500 used and 1900 retail. Get the S7 instead.
I bought it because I was actually trying to get the sound stage not to be terrible with the LCD2s and I figured the controls on the phonitor could help. Well, there is no fixing the sound stage on the LCD2, but I found that I did like the amp's sound well enough with the HD800 and also it allowed me to control the sound stage. Sound stage is without a doubt my most important quality in a setup. I do not like in head sound, I must have an out of head sound with a complete center or my brain rejects what I am listening to. I do like using the controls to fine tune the sound stage. Especially on older classic rock recordings. I can't stand when the sound appears to be coming from two sources on either side of my face. So I was willing to trade a bit of quality for correct staging. Having gone to the s7, well this just has a proper center image straight out of the box, so no worries there. Meanwhile I still have a DA11 as my source, which means I can control the center image with the S7, so the phonitor finds itself sitting dark and unused.
It is a pretty good amp, and as far as solid state amps go, it does work with the HD800. Which leaves it with very little company since most solid states sound way too harsh for me.
I would offer to sell you mine, but now that I've told you what it is worth, that wouldn't work :)p8
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I thought I posted a while ago but I guess it didn't go through.
So those of you guys with the UERM, what amp/dap/source pairing do you find reaching for most often? Would this change if the goal was to enjoy music rather than listening for detail/resolution?
Cheers
AK 100 for on-the-go. MacBook Air running Amarra -> Dragonfly for airplanes and hotel rooms.
At the risk of sounding like a prick, I don't understand the last question. At least for me, having all the detail is essential to enjoying music. There are exceptions, of course: I can certainly enjoy listening to "Kind of Blue" or "Shoot Out the Lights" in the car. But enjoyment vs. resolution is the worst kind of false dichotomy.
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I have a friend who is looking for some speaker amps in 2-6k range for driving a pair of Harbeths, while he is currently looking at Audio Note's amps, he would love other suggestions as well and I figured that I might as well ask here. He is looking at 30 to 50+W.
Audio-Space, Atma-Sphere, Air Tight, and Manley would be my suggestions.
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I thought I posted a while ago but I guess it didn't go through.
So those of you guys with the UERM, what amp/dap/source pairing do you find reaching for most often? Would this change if the goal was to enjoy music rather than listening for detail/resolution?
Cheers
AK 100 for on-the-go. MacBook Air running Amarra -> Dragonfly for airplanes and hotel rooms.
At the risk of sounding like a prick, I don't understand the last question. At least for me, having all the detail is essential to enjoying music. There are exceptions, of course: I can certainly enjoy listening to "Kind of Blue" or "Shoot Out the Lights" in the car. But enjoyment vs. resolution is the worst kind of false dichotomy.
Thanks, and sorry for the bad wording. I meant more of an analytical listening vs. just rockin' out.
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I'm thinking of getting my first pair of cIEM and am deciding between the C4 and the UERM (leaning towards the C4).
Anyone know the current lead time for these two? Haven't read much news about the C4 or anyone getting a new set recently. No email reply from Frogbeats either.
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http://www.head-fi.org/t/636716/frogbeats-custom-iem-appreciation-thread (Skip to the last four or six pages)
Frogbeats received my impressions Feb. 7, and replied six days ago that it'll likely be another 3-4 weeks. (Chinese New Year damn near had shit on lockdown)
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@CEE TEE is out of pocket for a few days, but if you check in with him he should be able to answer UE questions for you.
I'm thinking of getting my first pair of cIEM and am deciding between the C4 and the UERM (leaning towards the C4).
Anyone know the current lead time for these two? Haven't read much news about the C4 or anyone getting a new set recently. No email reply from Frogbeats either.
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http://www.head-fi.org/t/636716/frogbeats-custom-iem-appreciation-thread (Skip to the last four or six pages)
Frogbeats received my impressions Feb. 7, and replied six days ago that it'll likely be another 3-4 weeks. (Chinese New Year damn near had shit on lockdown)
Wait, they make them in China? I thought it was a UK thing. How do they do a rush order then?
@shipsupt: Good to know, thanks!
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Wait, they make them in China? I thought it was a UK thing. How do they do a rush order then?
Frogbeats is a UK based business, but they do not have the capacity to have a CIEM manufacturing operation there. The actual CIEM-making is done in China for Frogbeats.
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Okay, so I have a question:
How would the Pico DAC compare to the DAC in the UHA-6S (MKI or MKII)? How 'bout the CLAS -dB?
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I'm contemplating C4 or ES5. The ES5 has silicone canals which would probably provide better isolation (very useful in NYC), but the C4 might have better tonal balance? Any one heard both? Thoughts?
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Am I going to be satisfied with the TH900s out of Shipsupt's old Gilmore Lite, or should I re-terminate to use it balanced with my upcoming balanced Dynahi?
Or, alternatively, will there be little to no difference out of my DAC2's HP out?
For full satisfaction, best to throw the G-lite in the trash and get a DNA Stratus or ECZD with the TH900. :&
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For full satisfaction, best to throw the G-lite in the trash and get a DNA Stratus or ECZD with the TH900. :&
My wallet hates your face :P
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Okay, so I have a question:
How would the Pico DAC compare to the DAC in the UHA-6S (MKI or MKII)? How 'bout the CLAS -dB?
This is a good question.
I am using the Pico DAC now and I'm pretty happy with it for streaming at work to the 002. I wonder how it would stack up in a close comparison with some of these, or even with the DragonFly or Meridian HI (High Impedance).
It's the Apple connection with the CLAS stuff that still stands out to me. The new -dB seemed really attractive with added features. I was seriously thinking of making the jump to the -dB and matching it up with a MKIII. I'm hearing mixed reviews on the -dB vs. the original CLAS so I've held off. In general I do find that I do prefer that CLAS in my chain vs. the iPod line out. I don't notice it as much when I add it, but when I take it away I really miss it.
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I travel alot, and need to store my headphones in my suitcase on a daily basis. I am looking for a good headphone to use in hotels. What I am looking for is the following
-open design
-circumaural
-foldable of some sorts (to store in my luggage)
-good with classical music (Some soundstage would be great)
-not (too) amp dependant.
So far all I'v been able to find are Grado's (which fold/turn flat, but don't seem very sturdy in general), and Ultrasone (pro 2900, hfi-2400) (my Ultrasone experience is little midrange and spikey painful high's)
Any help is greatly appreciated!
ps have been using the sennheiser hd25-ii for a while, but its on-ear, and removing the cups everyday is a hassle
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One potential option...
The Philips L1 meets all your needs. It folds and packs up easy, generally really nice construction, is over ear and comfortable, semi-open, easy to drive, and easy to listen to. The phone cable makes them great if you have to make conference calls while on the road. Good for movies in the hotel room. I was living with these daily in the office for a while. You'd want to get a listen to see what you think of the warm sound. They don't do anything really bad, but they do lack some of the transparency, detail, etc... that you'd expect of a top end headphone (which it's not, so no need to compare it!). Sound stage is marginally better than say the M-80 and HD-25.
I often stuff something in my suitcase when I travel, but always put them in some sort of case. There are lots of options on e-bay etc... to fit almost any headphone, including Grados. For example: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Headphone-hard-case-for-Grado-iGrado-18cm-x-15cm-x-65cm-brand-new-high-quality-/150955699960?pt=UK_AudioVisualElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Headphones&hash=item2325a92ef8 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Headphone-hard-case-for-Grado-iGrado-18cm-x-15cm-x-65cm-brand-new-high-quality-/150955699960?pt=UK_AudioVisualElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Headphones&hash=item2325a92ef8)
My new hotel rig is the Stax 002. I keep it boxed up in a small pelican case in the suit case with the earphones, amp, and DAC.
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Haha, buy a hard case on ebay... how could I not have thought of that :)p13! I can just buy one for my Grado/Magnums or for my HD650 or for any other headphone to my liking. Thank you so much, this solves my problem! ahoy
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The nature of the audiophile... to overcomplicate things! :)p13
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Haha indeed ;)! I bought a hardcase for my HD650, and also a lightning-30pin adapter (iPhone 5 has new connector :-Z). So next week I will be able to go iPhone 5 -> line out -> Meier Corda 3Move -> HD650, sounds like a pretty reasonable portable setup for me :)p7 saves alot of money, not buying a new headphone :)p2
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Haha indeed ;)! I bought a hardcase for my HD650, and also a lightning-30pin adapter (iPhone 5 has new connector :-Z). So next week I will be able to go iPhone 5 -> line out -> Meier Corda 3Move -> HD650, sounds like a pretty reasonable portable setup for me :)p7 saves alot of money, not buying a new headphone :)p2
Are you sure that will work? When the iPhone 5 was released, there was a lot of talk about there being no analog audio out through the Lightning connector, and accompanying speculation about a supposed DAC built into the Apple Lightning-to-30-pin adaptor. Was that ever conclusively sorted out?
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??? I will find out next week. I didn't purchase the apple thing cause it was 30euro, I bought one online for 7 :)p3. I also bought an O2 amplifier for it, I need to stop myself :)p13
edit: Just checked, you were right, thats the reason why its so expensive (the DAC). I have cancelled my order, so I will order the Apple one. Hopefully in time, thanks to you! :)p5
Could this also mean that some developers/manufacturers will be able to make their own DAC for it, or even better a USB out to an existing DAC?
edit2: Somebody already figured that out: http://centrance.com/products/hifi-m8/
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Haha indeed ;)! I bought a hardcase for my HD650, and also a lightning-30pin adapter (iPhone 5 has new connector :-Z). So next week I will be able to go iPhone 5 -> line out -> Meier Corda 3Move -> HD650, sounds like a pretty reasonable portable setup for me :)p7 saves alot of money, not buying a new headphone :)p2
Are you sure that will work? When the iPhone 5 was released, there was a lot of talk about there being no analog audio out through the Lightning connector, and accompanying speculation about a supposed DAC built into the Apple Lightning-to-30-pin adaptor. Was that ever conclusively sorted out?
There is analog audio out through the lightning to 30-pin connector, I've been using it for a while now with my ipad mini. There's no video output however. I believe all lightning cables/adapters have a chip that authenticates data transfer from an iOS device to another source.
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I hated the Gilmore lite with DPS with my hd600s. I just thought the combo sounded lifeless. I like the CMOY even better than the Glite with that combo. That could have been due to using different dacs though but I am just sharing an observation.
I had a GLite with my HD580s and thought there was absolutely no difference in sound. It was my first amp I ever bought and that convinced me that people on Head-fi were a bunch of idiots. Left the site for several years then got curious again and picked up a Little Dot MKIII which sounded great with the 580s. Rest is downhill from there... :-S
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So there^^^ I liked the little dot more than the Glite also with the hd580 and 600. It wasn't as refined but gave the sound a little more ooomph and gusto.
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@CEE TEE is out of pocket for a few days, but if you check in with him he should be able to answer UE questions for you.
I'm thinking of getting my first pair of cIEM and am deciding between the C4 and the UERM (leaning towards the C4).
Anyone know the current lead time for these two? Haven't read much news about the C4 or anyone getting a new set recently. No email reply from Frogbeats either.
Does CEE TEE have both the UERM and C4? I too am researching for my first CIEM purchase and have narrowed it down to these two. However, it seems even a good number of months after the initial rumblings, there still aren't more than 2 reviews of these damn C4s by people who actually have custom copies made to their own impressions. So it goes without saying that there hasn't been enough comparison between them and the UERMs to make a decision.
Aside, the measurements seem to indicate that the UERMs are the flatter pair, although I realize measurements should be taken with a grain of salt.
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Can anyone suggest me some good upgrade options from the Gungnir under $1.5k?
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Concero, X-Sabre, M51, etc.
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Sorry, I should have read the OP closely...
EDIT
@CEE TEE only has the UE line, no C4.
@CEE TEE has the UERM custom and he also has the entire UE custom line up in demo models. (Including the PERM tuning box)
He's been listening to the UE4 a lot and comparing it directly to the UERM so I know he has some thoughts on it, all positive. Based on my brief listen to them, and our conversations I am picking up a pair as second set of customs.
Feel free to drop him a PM too, he should be done with the family stuff that's been keeping him out of the loop in the next few days.
@CEE TEE is out of pocket for a few days, but if you check in with him he should be able to answer UE questions for you.
I'm thinking of getting my first pair of cIEM and am deciding between the C4 and the UERM (leaning towards the C4).
Anyone know the current lead time for these two? Haven't read much news about the C4 or anyone getting a new set recently. No email reply from Frogbeats either.
Does CEE TEE have both the UERM and C4? I too am researching for my first CIEM purchase and have narrowed it down to these two. However, it seems even a good number of months after the initial rumblings, there still aren't more than 2 reviews of these damn C4s by people who actually have custom copies made to their own impressions. So it goes without saying that there hasn't been enough comparison between them and the UERMs to make a decision.
Aside, the measurements seem to indicate that the UERMs are the flatter pair, although I realize measurements should be taken with a grain of salt.
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Concero, X-Sabre, M51, etc.
Is Concero an upgrade over the gungir...even considering the balanced outs?
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Anyone hear that new amp on the front page of innerfidelity now? Looks interesting
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@CEE TEE has the UERM custom and he also has the entire UE custom line up in demo models. (Including the PERM tuning box)
He's been listening to the UE4 a lot and comparing it directly to the UERM so I know he has some thoughts on it, all positive. Based on my brief listen to them, and our conversations I am picking up a pair as second set of customs.
Feel free to drop him a PM too, he should be done with the family stuff that's been keeping him out of the loop in the next few days.
Did you mean to say C4?
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Nope, sorry, can't help with the C4.. I figured you were looking at UE so you didn't have a huge long wait to get them... I'll fix my post above.
@CEE TEE has the UERM custom and he also has the entire UE custom line up in demo models. (Including the PERM tuning box)
He's been listening to the UE4 a lot and comparing it directly to the UERM so I know he has some thoughts on it, all positive. Based on my brief listen to them, and our conversations I am picking up a pair as second set of customs.
Feel free to drop him a PM too, he should be done with the family stuff that's been keeping him out of the loop in the next few days.
Did you mean to say C4?
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Concero, X-Sabre, M51, etc.
Is Concero an upgrade over the gungir...even considering the balanced outs?
I've never done a real head-to-head comparo, but I've heard both, and strongly recommend the Concero. There's a decently long Concero thread on HF, and it's been the subject of a number of favorable reviews. Plus it costs about $200 less than a USB-capable Gungnir.
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Argh -- I did not need to hear that the UE4 was actually decent. I will need to go have a listen.
Anyone hear the Concero and/or Mytek? Need a DAC with a smaller footprint than the Gungnir since I just downsized my desk (it was accumulating too much clutter), and those are the two I'm looking at.
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Argh -- I did not need to hear that the UE4 was actually decent. I will need to go have a listen.
Anyone hear the Concero and/or Mytek? Need a DAC with a smaller footprint than the Gungnir since I just downsized my desk (it was accumulating too much clutter), and those are the two I'm looking at.
Both highly accomplished units, and my love for the Concero is hardly a secret, but that's not exactly an apples-to-apples comparison. The Mytek has an integrated HPA, does DSD, and costs 3x the price of the Concero. If you've a similarly compact amp already on hand, then the Concero is a cost-effective solution that I'm confident you will love.
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I am truly an idiot. I've managed to get a plug of ear wax in my UERMs. Suggestions for getting it out?
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Nope, sorry, can't help with the C4.. I figured you were looking at UE so you didn't have a huge long wait to get them... I'll fix my post above.
Ooo I feel kind of dumb now. Totally didn't realize UE has a #4 Pro model. How does that fare against the UERM btw?
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Nope, sorry, can't help with the C4.. I figured you were looking at UE so you didn't have a huge long wait to get them... I'll fix my post above.
Oh. Didn't realize the UE4's were in the same class as the UERMs O_o. Or is this more of a 'not bad considering they're half the price' thing?
Anyone else on Frogbeats C4 vs UERM? It seems I'm not the only one interested.
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I can't find a Concero dac, if I google it I get the meier concerto dac :wheel:
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I can't find a Concero dac, if I google it I get the meier concerto dac :wheel:
http://resonessencelabs.com/concero/
There you go. Resonessence Labs Concero.
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Thanks! Looks affordable, competition for the Rega Dac, Arcam rDac, Dacmagic and m-1? So many dac's at that pricepoint!
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Price definitely has an influence, but now that CEE TEE has had time for some close comparisons outside of meets his impressions are that they are closer than price would let you think. I'll leave it for him to fill you in, you just need to be patient a little longer and he will be back.
Nope, sorry, can't help with the C4.. I figured you were looking at UE so you didn't have a huge long wait to get them... I'll fix my post above.
Oh. Didn't realize the UE4's were in the same class as the UERMs O_o. Or is this more of a 'not bad considering they're half the price' thing?
Anyone else on Frogbeats C4 vs UERM? It seems I'm not the only one interested.
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Thanks! Looks affordable, competition for the Rega Dac, Arcam rDac, Dacmagic and m-1? So many dac's at that pricepoint!
The Arcam and the DM are very bleh DACs. John Kenny's DAC is bite sized and should school either of them, but it's USB only. The Lindemann is also teeny and has multiple inputs. I'm planning to try one on my desk with the Bakoon battery supply.
(http://www.positive-feedback.com/Issue50/images/P1015288.jpg)
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Yes, that was my experience with the Arcam and DacMagic as well. I ended up with the Spitfire MKII (with Powersource and Bravo sync), which I like a lot, but it looks not fancy at all, and it has 2 power switches now :D. I'm interested in a DAC 800-1200 dollar which is better than the Spitfire and has at least 1 coax and 1 optical input. The REGA DAC looks very nice, and I like its Rhythmic sound, but there are SO MANY dac's now, that its hard to choose (especially when you can't audition 90% of them).
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Thanks! Looks affordable, competition for the Rega Dac, Arcam rDac, Dacmagic and m-1? So many dac's at that pricepoint!
The Arcam and the DM are very bleh DACs. John Kenny's DAC is bite sized and should school either of them, but it's USB only. The Lindemann is also teeny and has multiple inputs. I'm planning to try one on my desk with the Bakoon battery supply.
(http://www.positive-feedback.com/Issue50/images/P1015288.jpg)
Dave, I had the unfortunate experience to try the Lindemann, the thing sounds like crap. Didn't match up to the Gungnir or the NAD M51. I'd rather it be priced at 400$..
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blargh. had a reply written out and accidentally closed the browser...
so yeah, I found a few measurements on the MDR-EX800ST / 7550 here: http://rinchoi.blogspot.ca/2012/11/sony-mdr-7550.html
but got no idea about his measurements, if they're reliable. distortion looks good... FR looks weird, he uses a very different compensation it seems.
are these at all sibilant? I read so in a few threads over at that place... but doesn't appear to be very so? more than ER4?
going to go see if I can try the SE425, can't figure out if they're as bassy as 535 or not. I thought those were a bit bassy.
seems like a lot of people dislike them but like the 535 :/ are they that different?
FitEar F111 measurements anyone? can't seem to find more than an FR comparison to the ER4 without any info other than that. $595 might be a tad much though. musica-acoustics just started selling them for that.
think I also decided on the A2, and another gift... seems like a good choice just overall. might spark a desire for me to get a decent pair of speakers too, haven't heard any good pairs in a loong long time. :P
has anyone here heard the RE-600 prototype? I'm very curious, the RE-400 seems promising too.
thanks
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so yeah, I found a few measurements on the MDR-EX800ST / 7550 here: http://rinchoi.blogspot.ca/2012/11/sony-mdr-7550.html
but got no idea about his measurements, if they're reliable. distortion looks good... FR looks weird, he uses a very different compensation it seems.
are these at all sibilant? I read so in a few threads over at that place... but doesn't appear to be very so? more than ER4?
thanks
i have an ex800st and theyre not sibilant at all. maaaaaaaaybe if the track is crazy sibilant, then it is :P maybe youre talking about the ex600/1000 (with ex600 cables) regarding sibilance
im using the ex1000 cable because theyre 100% tangle-free for me. as for difference in sound, ill just keep it to myself since it is OT
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blargh. had a reply written out and accidentally closed the browser...
so yeah, I found a few measurements on the MDR-EX800ST / 7550 here: http://rinchoi.blogspot.ca/2012/11/sony-mdr-7550.html
but got no idea about his measurements, if they're reliable. distortion looks good... FR looks weird, he uses a very different compensation it seems.
are these at all sibilant? I read so in a few threads over at that place... but doesn't appear to be very so? more than ER4?
Take my opinion for what it's worth, since I don't have a lot of experience with other IEMs, but to me it doesn't sound sibilant at all. Song not sibilant will stay that way, and sibilant song will not get worse with it. out of all the gear I have, it's one of the best I have and most loved for me. Can't help with any comparisons unless it's against the FXT90 though. :P
OT I should get hte EX1000 cable for spares, but it's too damn expensive. :'(
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Any of you have experience with the DA100 dac? How does it stack up to the Gamma2, and dac's like Rega, Dacmagic, Arcam? Any impressions are most welcome.
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Are the JVC RX700/RX900 or the Panasonic HT600 any good as budget desktop cans? Stuff like Youtube, gaming, etc. I just want over-ear closed cans that are around $50 for no-frills listening on the desktop.
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I'm going to buy a Hd650 or Hd600. I'm selling my old hd650 (its really old and scruffy). Des anybody now if it is true that the new hd650 is less laidback, and how it would compare to the Hd600? I know visually you can see at the back of the driver if its the old or new one (black or white cover material).
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It is true! I have compared them side by side even swapping pads the new 650 with older pads sound less veiled vs the old one.
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Hi, thats great news. Is the HD600 changed at all. How would you say the new HD650 compares to the HD600?
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The new hd600 still has less bass than the hd650 but it sounds more snappy and dynamic due to the fact that it is not suffocated by the additional midbass.
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Haha, you managed to make it even more difficult for me now :D. Thank you for your impressions, its still very helpful. The prices here in the NL are the same for both headphones ???
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Lets put it this way, If you loved the bass of your old 650 and just want a little more low treble/upper midrange bite, just get the new 650. If you want a slightly more open and snappy sound without losing the smoothness, go for the 600
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Yes that helps! I will get the HD650 in that case, I think it will work better with the music I listen. Thanks a lot donunus!
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Cheers. As for me, I would get the hd600 with an OTL tube amp like a Bottlehead crack or a woo3 for example and the hd650 with a snappy solid state like I suspect the new Little schiits are supposed to be.
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I am going to use the HD650 with my M^3 Sigma 11 and portable with the Leckerton uha-6s mkII.
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ahh I suspect that will be good enough for the new 650s unlike the old ones that needed some hardcore balancing magic to make them get up and go.
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What's the best headphone complement to the HD-650? That is, the ideal second pair to form a two-phone portfolio that minimizes combined weaknesses and redundant strengths. Such that if you averaged the frequency responses, the result would be optimal (conceptually, not literally). Discretely suited for different music genres.
Put another way, does it make more sense for an HD-650 owner to find a complementary pair of phones of similar class to get greater performance versatility or just replace the HD-650 with all-around superior phones? My hypothesis, such as it is, is that you can get superior all-around performance with two $500 phones than one $1,500 pair (I'm looking at you, HD-800).
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If you got a headphone that had a reverse response to the 650, what you would get is something like the old k701 but even worse. Basically CRAP! I would just get something based on what you like about the 650 and build up on the things you need that the 650 doesn't have ex. maybe isolation if you need it, punch, or more highs? or whatever you fancy that the 650 has yet has at least most of the important 650 strengths.
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I like my magnums v4 very much as a complimentary pair of headphones. Very different signature. I would never recommend it as the only pair of headphones to someone, but its great for what it does.
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In that case just take it easy. Of course if the up(/side)graditis bug has bitten you there's no stopping you...
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I'm thnking of getting another CIEM because I'm getting rid of most of my stuff. With the money, I'm looking at a $1000 and under price range. The top CIEMs that comes to mind is the UERM, Heir 8.A, JH13 Freqphase (I don't think the 16 is for me), UM Merlin/Miracle, Dreamearz AUD-7X, Aurisonics AS-2, and the Starkey SA-43.
I'm mostly interested in midrange. For bass, I don't want massive bass (reason why I might not want the JH16) but extension is a must for me. Since I'm unaffected by Grados, treble can be a little hot for me, but I dislike things like LCD-2 dark sound.
I listen to a good amount of Jazz and soft tunes (think Dido, Anna Nalick, Norah Jones etc) and some rock (Nirvana).
Yes, I've taken a look at Average_Joes thread on HF. I just want to see if anyone here has any experience with the listed IEMs
Thanks in advance! :)p1
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(http://www.imagegenerator.net/image/166584/Everything-points-towards-UERM.jpg)
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Would the Modi/Magni pair well with CIEMs (specifically Frogbeats C4)? I've read that the Magni in particular may be too loud due to high gain. I also plan on connecting my powered monitors to the combo, mostly for convenience. (Swan M200 MKII)
Related, has anyone tried the new Asgard, and compared it to higher end Schiit amps like the Mjolnir? The Asgard 2 seems preferable considering my uses, but I'm hesitant to shell out the cash if it's only a slight improvement over the Magni sound-wise.
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May I ask (as I have no prior knowledge on the high-end expensive DAC before), is that a big gap between Concero and also X-Sabre (or Gungnir) in terms of SQ? I'll use USB primarily to stream music from my laptop. Wonder what's the best setup? Or is there other choice? I plan to get the DAC + Amp done around 1.5k. Currently eyeing the WA6 as the choice amp since it is cheaper than WA6SE. No prior high-end SS amp knowledge too.
My idea is to go for HD800, but that will leave me not much resource to fund the other part of the gear. I just don't wish to mistreat HD800 with poor setup.
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May I ask (as I have no prior knowledge on the high-end expensive DAC before), is that a big gap between Concero and also X-Sabre (or Gungnir) in terms of SQ? I'll use USB primarily to stream music from my laptop. Wonder what's the best setup? Or is there other choice? I plan to get the DAC + Amp done around 1.5k. Currently eyeing the WA6 as the choice amp since it is cheaper than WA6SE. No prior high-end SS amp knowledge too.
My idea is to go for HD800, but that will leave me not much resource to fund the other part of the gear. I just don't wish to mistreat HD800 with poor setup.
Tubes + Unbalanced: Concero + CSP2+ + HD800
Tubes + Balanced: Nothing affordable, if you must, Little Dot MKVIIISE may be up to the task and would be not much over budget with the X-Sabre.
SS + Balanced: X-Sabre + BHA-1/Mjolnir + HD800
SS + Unbalanced: Concero + Soloist + HD800
Heard both and can recommend either path. Not sure what you could use in SS at lower price point, perhaps a Burson Soloist? I've heard none of their gear, but I am somewhat biased against it for whatever reason. Unless you are going for DSD, there's little reason to spend for the X-Sabre on an unbalanced system. The ONLY reason the Concero could be a bad pick is if your amp won't be able to handle a 1.2V input signal well. The CSP2+ has no problems with this. I thought the Mjolnir was good at it's price point, but it doesn't really excite me so it's hard to recommend despite it being worthy. Would stretch the budget a bit as then you would want to for sure go X-Sabre for balanced output, but it's not over by as much as the BHA-1 combo.
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Hey, is there any electrostat combo better than best case modded HD800 with a good tube amp? Or will be relatively soon?
I'm considering the next large investment in a few months.
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It depends on what you are looking for.
There are compromises with the stats just as with the HD800s. The good thing is that there are more choices with stat amps now. And this really helps people find gear and assemble systems which suits their preferences.
I appreciate the STAX headphones and how the 009 gets out of the way, but ultimately I'm not a big fan of the STAX sound. And the best STAX IMO, the 007mk1 is OOP.
FWIW, I only ditched the HD800 / ECBA because of the T2/007 or Electra/Jade. (I sold the T2 back to blubluss since I'm going back to speakers.)
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I'm obviously very invested in the stat sound now, but a good HD-800 rig, or even the modest one I had before I started breaking down my dynamic stuff, is pretty hard to beat especially if you dig their sound.
I had clear goals in mind for what I was looking for and understood exactly what I was going to gain and give up by making this move. I made small, slow, explorations into stats to see if it was where I wanted to go before I made any major moves. I auditioned the major gear that I'm investing in before I made decision on it. I think I'm putting together a system that's better, but I am sure that not everyone would agree.
With the yen struggling the 009 is pretty attractive, but there are some great OOP options to consider hunting for. Just don't expect them to come easy or cheap.
So, to answer your question directly and quit beating around the bush, I think the 007 MKI / BHSE combination will be better than the best case HD800 rig. That's going on my time with the 007's and several sessions with the combination. I'll only know for sure when my BHSE arrives and I can spend serious time with it at home. I am sure that this view would not be shared by all because they are ultimately looking for something different.
I couldn't have put it better than @purrin did, it depends on what you are looking for.
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All bets would be off for me if Sennheiser made an HD650 without the veil and with the super hi-resolution of the HD800.
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All bets would be off for me if Sennheiser made an HD650 without the veil and with the super hi-resolution of the HD800.
How do we make this happen? :)p10
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Possible with modding?
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I have bought an Aune T1 for which I need a decent pair of headphones for home use only. Listen to rock, jazz, pop and some classical. I guess you could say anything which is well recorded.
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Hello Bmullock, and welcome to Changstar. I merged your new thread with our official advice thread, since this is where we like to keep questions like this.
Also when you have some time, please introduce yourself:
http://www.changstar.com/index.php/topic,302.0.html
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To answer your question: how do you feel about ear-monitors? I ask because you can generally get more bang-for-your-buck with IEMs in my opinion.
Take a look at our Pirate's Booty thread: http://www.changstar.com/index.php/topic,118.0.html
There you'll find some headphones we like. HD600, HD650, HE400 are good choices if you don't mind spending a little more. Otherwise the Koss KSC-35 and 75 are some great budget options. If you aren't afraid of doing some modding, the T50RP is a good way to go. You can find a few others in the link above. I'm sure some pirates will have other suggestions.
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All bets would be off for me if Sennheiser made an HD650 without the veil and with the super hi-resolution of the HD800.
How do we make this happen? :)p10
Maybe we can make another petition on HF with the following points:
- Your HD700 sucks
- However we forgive you because we know you can design anything you want
- Stats can be an option, but we are manly men (and women) who may want something other than the limp-dick impact of stat bass (impact not to be confused with an overly bloated low end frequency response)
- Make a headphone with something more similar to an HD650 FR, but with the technicalities of the HD800. An HD650 without veil, with tight extended bass, and with the superior micro-detail and micro-dynamics of the HD800.
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Where do I sign?
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Some has to dare me to post something so obnoxious on HF first.
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Double dog dare
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Can anyone suggest a source for custom TosLink cables? Thinking about getting a Leckerton to use with the AK, which has an optical output built into the headphone jack (similar to MacBook Pro). Looking for an LOD-length 1/8 to standard connector.
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Can anyone suggest a source for custom TosLink cables? Thinking about getting a Leckerton to use with the AK, which has an optical output built into the headphone jack (similar to MacBook Pro). Looking for an LOD-length 1/8 to standard connector.
Sysconcept:
http://www.sysconcept.ca/ (http://www.sysconcept.ca/)
Fancy version, not sure how it sounds though:
http://www.sysconcept.ca/product_info.php?products_id=349 (http://www.sysconcept.ca/product_info.php?products_id=349)
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Hey how is everyone connecting the galaxy s3 to the leckerton? Anyone have a short micro to micro that works? Tried looking online for it and didn't seem anyone sells one so I tried DIYing one but getting lost haha
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My UERMs should be shipping out any day now. At first, I intended to drive them straight from my Macbook Pro, as I just don't have the cash to invest in other quality gear right now. However, I was reading some of the praise and measurements of the Clip+, and seeing how dirt cheap it is and me having some Amazon gift cards lying around, I figured it might not be a bad investment. Besides buying it to have a super portable DAP, would using the (Rockboxed) Clip+ as a source be an improvement or regression in sound quality over the MBP headphones-out? Or Macbook Air for that matter; I may be in the market for one in the future.
Also, could someone share some thoughts or point me in the right direction regarding the need or lack thereof for an amp when using CIEMs like the UERM? A priori, my feeling is that an amp is designed to do just that, amplify. If your source can neutrally drive all frequencies, and can do so louder than you'd listen to, then I don't see why there is a need for an amp. However, I realize that the details of audio reproduction are far from simple, so I imagine I am missing something.
For arguments sake, lets talk about using a Clip+ -> UERM vs Clip+ -> amp/other gear -> UERM. What sort of benefits does the latter yield? Is the issue that the Clip+ colors things when moving off of 0 dB, or is the Clip+ -> UERM really not loud enough, etc.? Is there something screwy with impedance matching/response that colors things that an amp can improve?
EDIT: To clarify some of my thoughts on the amp stuff, it's just that things not being loud enough when using IEMs isn't a problem I ever remember having.
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The headphone out built into many notebooks will, quite frankly, suck. The improvement you experience switching to even a modest DAP like the Clip should make it a worthwhile investment. Not to mention a DAP adds an extra level of portability --- one of the main reasons many people get a CIEM in the first place.
As for amping, there's more to it than simply making things loud enough. One of the popular mantras within certain circles is that "all DACs, DAPs, and amps sound the same," but that's nonsense. Neutrality is something of a moving target, and really there is no genuinely neutral source or wire with gain amp. It's a reference point for comparison's sake. IEMs in particular are pretty sensitive to different devices, and they'll actually sound different going from one device to the next.
Aside from synergy, another thing to consider is control. DAPs and / or external amps will ideally give you more control over the drivers. Any source will be able to drive them loudly enough. That's not the issue with IEMs. Rather, the issue is control. Many sources will be TOO loud. A good DAP or external amp will give you more room for fine adjustments in volume (rather than going from quiet to too loud with little in between). Also because of their highly sensitive nature, many IEMs will hiss and hum with sources like notebooks. Using a DAP or external amp with a lower gain will give you a blacker background.
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Thanks for the info. In that case, I'll definitely invest in the Clip+. I certainly agree re adding to portability. It'll be nice to have a DAP for the occasions that I don't have my laptop with me (I do have a 5th gen iPod video, but 'we won't go there'). I'm hoping I can cram it into a Pelican 1010 along with the UERM and a Westone desiccant pod, in which case, it will incur zero storage overhead.
On amping, I see. So, regarding the first part, I guess it's just a matter of a bunch of subtle variables combining to make amps into a thing that can just 'sound better' when properly matched to the rest of the gear?
Regarding volume control, I definitely hear you there. Is the volume control on the Clip+ a problem, i.e. largish step discrete?
Maybe I'll invest in a portable amp down the road when I have cash to burn. I understand that quality is asymptotically priced, but spending a significant portion of the price of CIEMs on an amp for better volume control seems a bit beyond my line in the sand. I guess more of the value in amping IEMs is in the subtle art that governs the way different devices interact with each other to produce a certain final sound?
EDIT: I guess I might as well ask, if I'm Rockboxing it either way, is there any reason to get the older Clip+ instead of the Clip Zip? I don't care about album artwork and color, but as long as the battery doesn't take a hit and there aren't any other snafus I guess it's a welcome addition.
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Yeah, pretty much. For instance you wouldn't really want to go pairing an IEM with a massive bass response and a player that already has accentuated bass. In that case it's a matter of frequency response and not lighting up problem areas. It also helps to be aware of other factors too like impedance, since some IEMs with really low impedance can actually change drastically from one player to the next. Knowing the properties of BAs and dynamic drivers and their shortcomings is a good idea.
Sounds like you want a signature more toward neutral. The UERM is the way to go there; I imagine it'll allow your source to come through very clearly without being too obtrusive, so you'd be able to really hear the amp or DAP. The Clip+ is a solid choice for the money I think.
Volume control shouldn't be an issue on the Clip+. Should give you plenty of room to adjust and be pretty quiet.
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Thanks for all the info!
As much as I'm attracted to the quaintness of the Clip+, it turns out that the Clip+ uses Mini USB whereas the Clip Zip uses Micro USB. My phone uses Micro USB, so 1-cable-convenience makes my choice for me. Word is that they have the same audio hardware, and Rockbox is usably stable on both, so no issues there. Apparently the FM radio is better on the Zip, although I don't know if I'll ever take advantage of that.
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Looking for a battery/USB powered amp / dac+amp to use with my laptop with lots of power into orthos (to turn my T50RP into loud-enough portable speakers off my head. Yes, strange but sometimes, especially when I'm in bed, I just don't want the pads on, and I have no space for speakers either). Needless to say, the deciding factor would be whether it sounds good when I actually wear the cans. I do have a pair of IEM as well (FutureSonics mg6pro) so hiss maybe an issue.
So far, I have found, sorted by price:
DAC+Amp
Centrace Hifi-M8 (which Michael Goodman reported as a DacMini with less power. I do have to wonder though.)
RSA Intruder/Predator. RSA stuff not too favoured around here.
Amp only:
Fiio E12. Not much information.
O2. I owned a stock one from JDSLabs and was not terribly impressed.
Pico Power. Heard great things about Justin's offerings.
RSA stuff. These are not too favored around here.
Portaphile 627? I could not find any spec, but Mike @ Headfonia says it powers HE-6. Another reputable amp.
ALO Rx-MK3B (hisses a lot? Heard great things about these though.)
So far I'm leaning towards the Hifi-M8 LX (since Michael design just what I wants: high power, high gain, low noise, all in one, and I really loved my DacPort LX when I had it. Not too sure about the amp section though) and the E12 + DAC (Modi + E12 is a lot cheaper than all the other options, but I don't know how the E12 performs). Any thoughts?
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If portability isn't a concern, the Triad L3 might be worth looking into. Also consider the Tralucent T1 amp, which is supposedly pretty nice but has very high gain for a portable.
Unfortunately finding something that is uber-powerful and also something that plays nicely with very sensitive IEMs all in one unit can be a little tricky.
Also I'm thinkng the Leckerton UHA-6S should be powerful enough on the high gain setting for driving the T50RP plenty loud.
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I am actually using the UHA-6S. Great with the IEMs, but sometimes I wish it goes louder, even with the T50RP on my head. Off my head, :)p2 not loud enough at all.
I figured the since the T50RP can handle 3W (as per the official spec), might as well turn it into portable speakers :)p13 (but maybe it's just me...)
The L3 is intriguing, but it doesn't have power specs and it costs significantly more than the rest, especially considering that you can get a Portaphile for $300 less. I'm not too fond of buying used portable gear... if you can call the L3 portable.
Unfortunately finding something that is uber-powerful and also something that plays nicely with very sensitive IEMs all in one unit can be a little tricky.
The exact reason that I'm eyeing the Hifi-M8. It seems to does just that: low noise, low distortion, high power, Centrance's motto. And the DAC section should be better that the DacPort LX, which is enough for me... for now. Yet I'm unsure of how Centrance's amp section typically performs, hence I'm still deciding and exploring options.
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Please recommend me a good DDC USB to Toslink/Optical?
Until now i thought DDC will not affect sound. But after read purrin's respone to Empirical Off Ramp Converter, looks like it is time to upgrade. :)p2
PS: my wallet will scream if it more than $500. p;)
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Please recommend me a good DDC USB to Toslink/Optical?
Until now i thought DDC will not affect sound. But after read purrin's respone to Empirical Off Ramp Converter, looks like it is time to upgrade. :)p2
PS: my wallet will scream if it more than $500. p;)
Not many of the higher-end converters have optical outputs, but some do - the M2Tech EVO and SoTM dX-USB USD being the major ones. Optical is usually left out because it's considered inferior to coax, and its support for 24/192 is dubious. Between those two I would recommend the SoTM.
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Please recommend me a good DDC USB to Toslink/Optical?
Until now i thought DDC will not affect sound. But after read purrin's respone to Empirical Off Ramp Converter, looks like it is time to upgrade. :)p2
PS: my wallet will scream if it more than $500. p;)
Why not consider changing your source or DAC so as to not require conversion? Would surely be more cost effective I'd guess.
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I've recently realized that I spend most of my listening time at the office, while my fancy home rig (Modwright XA5400ES + ZDSE) often goes unused (2 young kids, long work hours, etc.). I want to see if there is a way to upgrade my office rig (currently a Benchmark DAC + Senn HD650). I have little space on my desk so really would prefer not to get separate DAC and amp, so was wondering if there is a better DAC / Amp combo out these days than the Benchmark? I don't need portable.
I had the Antelope Audio Zodiac Gold, and thought it was meh. Seems like there are some good DACs with mediocre headphone amps built in, so is there a product that does both acceptably well? Invicta? Eximus DP1? Anedio?
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I like the Burson Conductor was a good amp with an okay DAC built in. I imagine it gets better if you use a decent USB -> SPDIF converter to bypass its somewhat buggy Tenor chip, but I haven't tried doing so yet.
Iuno if I'd recommend buying it blindly though as it does have a bit of a sound signature to it that you may or may not like.
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I had the Antelope Audio Zodiac Gold, and thought it was meh. Seems like there are some good DACs with mediocre headphone amps built in, so is there a product that does both acceptably well? Invicta? Eximus DP1? Anedio?
Yeah I'm not a fan of the Antelope. The Anedio is a solid choice, there's also the Grace m903, though I have no experience with that so please correct me if it's crap. BMC's PureDAC has a 4-pin balanced HP output as well as a regular jack which I think is a first for an integrated DAC/HPA? The Exasound e20 has a HPA, but I'm not sure I could pay $2500 for a DAC that uses a cheap power brick. It also seems to be a fairly typical "Sabre sound" DAC. There's also the T+A DAC8.
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Both Lavry DA11 and the new Grace m903 include decent amps, crossfeed. The DA11 has a better implementation of both features so it can handle precise adjustments to imaging and volume, where it has plenty of headroom.
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^I would love to be able to trade my DAC1 for a Lavry DA11. (But I know that nobody would do it.)
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On the tube side there was this thread: http://www.changstar.com/index.php/topic,699.0.html (http://www.changstar.com/index.php/topic,699.0.html)
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Why not consider changing your source or DAC so as to not require conversion? Would surely be more cost effective I'd guess.
Because i still love my current DAC. :)p2
Not many of the higher-end converters have optical outputs, but some do - the M2Tech EVO and SoTM dX-USB USD being the major ones. Optical is usually left out because it's considered inferior to coax, and its support for 24/192 is dubious. Between those two I would recommend the SoTM.
Yes, even new M2Tech EVO doesn't have optical Output anymore.
SoTM looks promising.
Thanks for the information. :)p5
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^I would love to be able to trade my DAC1 for a Lavry DA11. (But I know that nobody would do it.)
I've got an extra one I could lend you for a while if you want to try it out.
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you keep a spare DA11 lying around? :-00
On a similar note, how does the DA10 fare in comparison to the DA11?
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Hello, I have a simple question. My friend needs cheap (<$100), closed headphones that isolate so he can use it when playing drums. He also wants it for gaming. I'm not very familiar with headphones (iem guy here) and the closest I've found is the superlux hd631. Are there better contenders?
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Spring a little for the ATH-M50 (Or find used). Good for drummers. headbang
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B000ULAP4U (http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B000ULAP4U)
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Spring a little for the ATH-M50 (Or find used). Good for drummers. headbang
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B000ULAP4U (http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B000ULAP4U)
Thanks for the suggestion, but that's sadly way above his price range. Anyway, I guess we will have to stick with the superlux. :)
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Sennheiser HD280 Pro. Theres no competition under $100 IMO for that purpose.
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you keep a spare DA11 lying around? :-00
On a similar note, how does the DA10 fare in comparison to the DA11?
I ordered a spare DA11 when my original broke down. Luckily I was able to Lazarus it so now I have a new duplicate DAC which I'll sell off eventually.
The DA10 is basically the DA11 without the PiC (crossfeed) and sans the infared port. Headamp wise both use discrete components and digitally-controlled analog volume.
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^@anetode, I just saw your offer...I would like to take you up on that!
I would love to compare the DAC1 and DA-11 again. There's also a local DA-10 to compare to again as well. :money:
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I think I may be looking to add a flagship dynamic headphone to my stable to complement the LCD-2. If you can only own one headphone, would you pick Sennheiser HD800 or Fostex TH-900? Unfortunately I'm only familiar with the HD800 so some advice will certainly be very helpful. It has to do relatively well in all genres because I pretty much listen to everything.
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I would not pick the Fostex as an all-rounder unless you are a serious basshead. The HD800 has a reputation as a genre phone, but that's largely due to rig and treble without the mod. Personally, I'd take the HD800 as the better complement to the LCD-2 as the Audeze for the following reasons:
1) LCD-2 are a bit dark and bass heavy, HD800 are a bit bright. Complementary.
2) LCD-2's are better loud. Good bass at low volume but not as great at low level (or low volume) detail. HD800 excels with low level and low volume play, even though bass doesn't kick in as satisfyingly at low volume. Complementary.
3) LCD-2's have more intimate stage and more convincing tone/weight for some chamber and folk music. HD800's have larger (more realistic in most cases) soundstage, especially shows with larger ensemble, orchestra, etc. Complementary.
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^ :)p1
Now, LCD2 versus TH900 is an interesting question... popcorn
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Owning both right now, HD800. I'm happy with the TH-900 as a complementary can, but much prefer the HD800 for general use. I EQ to even out the frequency response of the TH-900s, but all you get with them (In my opinion) is more present bass. They work well when I'm not alone in my cube and don't want to disturb everyone around me, but otherwise I will always reach for the HD800s (except for hip hop where I turn off eq and let a little basshead out with the TH900s).
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I'm a pretty big fan of the TH900, but agree with with what others have posted that the HD800 would work better as a compliment of the LCD-2's if you have the setup for it or are willing to mod.
HD800 + TH900 would be a pretty killer combo, though, especially since amps that sound good with the HD800 are also much more likely to sound good with the TH900 as well than the LCD-2 (I've experimented with this a bit, owning/have owned quite a few amps and all headphones being discussed).
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Further agreement might be a bit overkill, but I do think if you're looking for a complementary can for the LCD-2, the HD 800 would be a great choice.
For a wallet damaging IMO thought :& - I personally am not a huge fan of the LCD-2, and prefer the TH-900 to the LCD-3 as well. If your wallet is prepared to take a hit, try to make it out to a meet and give the TH-900 a listen. I will say the bass on the TH-900 is significantly more impactful than I would have imagined. Just make sure this kind of sound signature is your cup of tea before slapping down the coins.
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I will say the bass on the TH-900 is significantly more impactful than I would have imagined. Just make sure this kind of sound signature is your cup of tea before slapping down the coins.
It's the closest that I've felt to having a seaton submersive strapped to my head.
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If quantity is there, how about quality? Is it just bloated bass or does it have finesse? Further, does it have dynamic bass that varies in quantity when the song calls for it? Or does it just put out bass no matter what?
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I personally feel it has extremely high quality bass. If you look at the measurements, you'll see it does well in harmonic distortion, and the result is a very clean sound. Much cleaner than any of the Denons. Because of this, it may sound subjectively less bassy than the former Denon line. I also find the bass is well controlled and doesn't blot out other parts of the sonic spectrum, and it also doesn't pump bass into tracks that don't call for it (in other words it varies track by track pretty well). When a track calls for bass however then yes, there's quite a bit of it.
This is no one-note Edition 9 or D7100 by any means however. I actually find its has quite a bit of finesse to its sound.
TBH you can save a lot of money and get 90 to 95% of the performance with the TH600. I've talked about it in a few other spots, but the TH600 basically sounds slightly less lively and less open sounding while actually a bit more even down below.
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It's not horrible bass but it is too PHAT for me. I could probably live w/ the IE800 bass more since it's pushed further down to low/sub bass though it's magnitude is more present than the 900. 900 is phat in the midbass which I feed to be a problem at that price unless you only use it for genres that will make use of it.
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Also forgot to mention that because the bass is so clean, I found the TH900 responded well to EQ.
If you want a complimentary headphone for an Audez'e, then the HD800 fits the bill more. Just make sure you have the right setup for it. Driving the HD800 on an amp that isn't a good fit for it will result in pure sucktitude.
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Also forgot to mention that because the bass is so clean, I found the TH900 responded well to EQ.
Yes, this ^
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Also forgot to mention that because the bass is so clean, I found the TH900 responded well to EQ.
If you want a complimentary headphone for an Audez'e, then the HD800 fits the bill more. Just make sure you have the right setup for it. Driving the HD800 on an amp that isn't a good fit for it will result in pure sucktitude.
The way you describe the TH900 really really intrigues me as I am attracted to bass-heaviness as long as it's high quality bass. HD800 is lovely, LCD2 was okay, but both does not quench my basslust when I'm listening to particular genres or in a particular mood. So, I was leaning towards IEMs to do the job and the Freqphase JH13/16 piqued my interest, but pricing drives me away and back to the UERM.
I just hope someone has the TH600/900 in the upcoming hf meet in Seattle and Vancouver so I can listen for myself.
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I just hope someone has the TH600/900 in the upcoming hf meet in Seattle and Vancouver so I can listen for myself.
It took a while to love them, but I now really appreciate everything that the TH900 does well. I feel pretty good
Does anyone have balanced XLR switch recommendations? I have 2 sources and 3 amps that need to be driven. I'm local to Goldpoint and emailed their sales team to see if they do custom work. Otherwise, I'll have to make up some time for a DIY project.
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Muppet, how would you describe the TH900 relative to the Freqphase JH13/16s? I'm having a difficult time reaching a decision whether I should go back to CIEMs or try the full sized closed back approach... again.
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Does anyone have balanced XLR switch recommendations? I have 2 sources and 3 amps that need to be driven. I'm local to Goldpoint and emailed their sales team to see if they do custom work. Otherwise, I'll have to make up some time for a DIY project.
Not passive, but a pro audio mixer might work. A lot of them in the <$200 mark will have at least 4 xlr inputs on top (usually for mics, but you can individually pan each channel for L/R to keep the channels separate).
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Does anyone have balanced XLR switch recommendations? I have 2 sources and 3 amps that need to be driven. I'm local to Goldpoint and emailed their sales team to see if they do custom work. Otherwise, I'll have to make up some time for a DIY project.
Why the switch? I would just use a splitter. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1/184-9833457-0962606?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=xlr+splitter (http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1/184-9833457-0962606?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=xlr+splitter)
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Does anyone have balanced XLR switch recommendations? I have 2 sources and 3 amps that need to be driven. I'm local to Goldpoint and emailed their sales team to see if they do custom work. Otherwise, I'll have to make up some time for a DIY project.
http://www.audiopile.net/products/Electronics/MST-412_rack_splitter/MST-412_cutsheet.shtml
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Does anyone have balanced XLR switch recommendations? I have 2 sources and 3 amps that need to be driven. I'm local to Goldpoint and emailed their sales team to see if they do custom work. Otherwise, I'll have to make up some time for a DIY project.
http://www.audiopile.net/products/Electronics/MST-412_rack_splitter/MST-412_cutsheet.shtml
i'm not sure you could DIY that any cheaper.
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Does anyone have balanced XLR switch recommendations? I have 2 sources and 3 amps that need to be driven. I'm local to Goldpoint and emailed their sales team to see if they do custom work. Otherwise, I'll have to make up some time for a DIY project.
http://www.audiopile.net/products/Electronics/MST-412_rack_splitter/MST-412_cutsheet.shtml
i'm not sure you could DIY that any cheaper.
Just the jacks and enclosure alone!
Any reason to get fancy with the transformers etc.. for this application? Seems like adding a bunch of un-needed in the signal path.
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Does anyone have balanced XLR switch recommendations? I have 2 sources and 3 amps that need to be driven. I'm local to Goldpoint and emailed their sales team to see if they do custom work. Otherwise, I'll have to make up some time for a DIY project.
http://www.audiopile.net/products/Electronics/MST-412_rack_splitter/MST-412_cutsheet.shtml
i'm not sure you could DIY that any cheaper.
Just the jacks and enclosure alone!
Any reason to get fancy with the transformers etc.. for this application? Seems like adding a bunch of un-needed in the signal path.
i totally missed the isolation TXs facepalm. for home audio, i'm not sure how concerned one needs to be over galvanic isolation with only 2 sources and 3 amps. i run both balanced and unbalanced outputs from my BM DAC1, into 3 different amps via loop-outs without any noise or ground loop problems. how manufacturers treat pin1 in a balanced connection isn't uniform either.
i only have one amp (unbalanced) that has the PS in the same chassis as the signal circuits, but i have a ground-loop breaker installed. ground lift switches are a nice option to potentially solve noise or 50/60Hz hummm, but the downside is that you can lose some RFI rejection by not having the signal tied to chassis.
possible sonic changes from having input TXs is not a can of worms i want to open. i'm sure Steve or Doug could enlighten more on that topic.
edit: i forgot to mention, if a DAC is connected to two different amplifiers via a loop-out, the DAC will 'see' the combined resistaces of the pots/attenuators in parallel. while most modern DACs should be able to drive 7-10K, you must be cognizant of the total parallel resistance - i.e. 2x 10K pots may be asking too much current from the source. i usually stick with 25K pots for this reason.
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Hi, getting new customs(C4 or lcm 5) soon and I need new portable player for them. Is Sansa Clip+/Zip still ideal choice or is any of these"hifi" daps from colorfly or hisoundio worth trying?
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The Sansas are so cheap and easy to modify that for all that they offer they're a no brainer.
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Only audiophile DAP on the horizon that doesn't seem like a ripoff is the fiio x3. Though I can't deny that the colorfly is a sexy piece of gaudy audiophilia.
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The Sansas are so cheap and easy to modify that for all that they offer they're a no brainer.
Modify? What do people do with them?
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http://www.rockbox.org/wiki/SansaClip
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Even if you don't think much of the Clip or Fuze. As daily beaters and back-up DAPs they're good.
If anyone is interested, my iRiver H340 is completely useless nowadays...
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Only audiophile DAP on the horizon that doesn't seem like a ripoff is the fiio x3. Though I can't deny that the colorfly is a sexy piece of gaudy audiophilia.
Hmm....what to say about the X3. I would say go the for the Clip+ unless you 'need' hi-rez playback or a bit more drive for headphones. Otherwise the Fiio boys will have something that should be a sonic upgrade at a later date though it will be more than an X3.
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As usual with the Fiio, always upgrade an inch at a time.
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I really like my Rockboxed Sansa Clip+. IMHO quite a bit of bang for the buck.
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As usual with the Fiio, always upgrade an inch at a time.
I'll keep track of the reception of the X3.
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not to take any credit away from them. They produced quite a lot of Value stuffs.
Just that them never really get something uber good tasty amp/dac. Maybe there's nothing left to design? :)p8
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Call it their marketing strategy. First appeal to low income segments and skim more market segments by adding more expensive products along the way. It works and guarantees continuity because the costumers are satisfied with products that sometimes exceed their initial expectations.
If Fiio can make a something as good as a compact iRiver like DAP, settings à la Rockbox and versatility à la Clip Plus I want to try it. If iRiver had mixed the functionality of the cheap Sansas with their H-series in a more compact and light housing just for DAP purposes, p:3. I would have bought it in a heartbeat...
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Screw fiio, all my stuff never last with them >:/ Even my diy POS lasted longer.
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hi - at it again (sorry guys, ended up returning a few closed/portable headphones I tried and did not quite like - hoping IEM will be more satisfactory)...
IEM ~$500 (willing to stretch a bit, ok with buying used) with preferably not too much bass, nor too much treble. I like mids to be good.
I think non-fatiguing is key here, a clean presentation without bad spikes would be desired... just not sure if I can find that easily.
I don't like bi/tri-flange tips, do much prefer something like Sony Hybrid tips. comfort is quite important for long listening too.
source is iPad 4th gen but actually kind of looking for something more portable for when I don't bring a bag, so something neat small would be nice if you could recommend.
just tried: Sony MDR-1R (sooo comfy... just a bit too much bass and some oddities going on in upper mids? not quite sure what it was... a bit overly smooth perhaps), Sennheiser Momentum (my ears are too big :( sound is pretty good, wish it was less V-shaped but otherwise nice), UE6000 (bit bassy for my taste, tad too warm/smooth) as well as Beyerdynamic DT1350 (couldn't get a good fit/seal and treble kind of... was super thin. might have had a bad pair)
also demo'ed a pair of Amperior which were just too V-shaped to work for me. not bad though.
I do understand if I am being too picky here, but I heard IEM's have come a long way.
these will be my main 'phone for a longer time, so I'm being more hopeful than I should.
hopefully not asking too much here, just checking mostly to see if I should give up or save up! sorry for the mess, and thanks.
sorry for re-quoting, got some great advice BUT I am balling with the idea of selling off my desktop amp and DAC which would be another couple of hundred... though I wouldn't want to spend all of it unless really good stuff. $800 would get me anything better? I could consider some more serious custom maybe?
was supposed to meet up with a guy to listen to FitEar 334 (though these are $900 or so used from what I can find? best prices) but it fell through.
got the impression that these are pretty much the opposite of fatiguing yet detailed and with a nice midrange.
haven't been able to demo much, the sony store didn't have the MDR-7550's :( and no HiFiMAN RE-400 in sight.
loooong shot but I'm willing to pay for shipping and candy if anyone has anything that might be of interest, that I can't find locally, for loaner in Canada. :-[
thanks! and again hope it's not too much to ask for... the endless pursuit.
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Any chance someone could give me some recommendations for UIEMs under 1k USD, please?
I'm coming from Meelec A151 and apparently i got some small ears right here, because A151 is pretty small earphone and it still gets uncomfortable after some time wearing it over the ear - it pushes on my antihelix and leaves some marks there. Or maybe it is the way it's shaped, non-ergo style. Anyway i usually only use small to mid tips with them since my canal exits are pretty small and tight. Bi- or tri-flanges are big no-go.
For the sound i want something non-fatiguing, not bright for long listening sessions. I don't really like in A151 is how it renders cymbals, drums and guitars sometimes. Low end is also a bit lacking for my tastes. Not sure if i got it right with mid range and highs. Does recessed mid range means more distant, laid-back sound and if it's extended up it's more forward and usually aggressive? I don't think i want it either way, especially if recession means less audible details. As for highs i guess i don't want something ear piercing, don't really want any sibilance there. Guess i'm looking for something warm and sweet, eh? Would be great yet to have it airy with more then average soundstage width, depth, and height but i guess i should give in something.
The reason i crossed CIEMs yet is because i'm planning to get/add some weight mass this year (like 10 to 20 kilos) and i'm not really sure how am i suppose to get those multiple drivers/bores/crossovers designs in my pretty small ears.
Oh and detachable cables would be useful, especially if it's over 300-500 region.
Thanks.
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Hello iRo. Based on your listed preferences (warmer, less treble emphasis, soundstage), I'd suggest looking into:
Sony MDR-7550 (aka EX800ST): Fairly well balanced but very polite. It's basically Sony's idea of an in-ear studio monitor. Treble is less aggressive compared to the other EX series models. Price is around $200-300.
Heir 5.0: This one will be shaped more like a custom, but it's still universally fitting so you don't need to bother with ear impressions. It has a warmer sound similar to the 8.A. Price will be around $700 IIRC.
Radius HP-TWF21: More exotic / harder to find, but it has a rather fun presentation that is very spacious and open. It's on the slightly bassier and less trebly side of the spectrum. Price will be around $200.
HiFiMan RE-400: This is $99, but it's a serious contender and hits way above its price range IMHO. The balance is slightly bottom-shifted, but over it'll a pretty linear sounding earphone. Good for small ears.
TDK BA200: Reminds me of the Westone universals somewhat (like the W4), but personally I prefer this to them. Price around $180.
Ultimate Ears UE900: Also worth a close look. $400.
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Also consider the Sennheiser IE 8. It has prodigious bass and a surprisingly "open"/"spacious" sound for an IEM. The low end was a bit much for me, but it definitely made for a warmer sound.
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Similar question, but I'm looking for CIEMs for my daily commute and when I'm studying away from my apartment because of the extra isolation. I'm looking for one with a warmer sound, so I was considering the AS-1, but I'm open to other brands. Any recommendations around $500?
Edit: Forgot to mention, I plan to run it out of the Fiio X3 when it comes out.
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You should be able to get into a UE4 for around $500. Solid choice in a CIEM.
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If isolation is key, I'd check out some of the silicone CIEM makers.
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Has anyone heard the Tzar 90 and 350? I'm curious about the 350 specifically because it's supposed to be neutral and all plus the impedance allows for a bigger headroom on my DAP since I listen at very low volumes.
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Has anyone heard the Tzar 90 and 350? I'm curious about the 350 specifically because it's supposed to be neutral and all plus the impedance allows for a bigger headroom on my DAP since I listen at very low volumes.
The Tzar 350 is not neutral by a long shot.
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Any love for Tralucent 1+2 IEM (bundled with T1 amp) over FitEat TG334 if my requirements were to find a drastic improvement for Vsonic GR07? Smooth treble, wide and deep staging, sweet mids, and also some bass?
Thanks.
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Any love for Tralucent 1+2 IEM (bundled with T1 amp) over FitEat TG334 if my requirements were to find a drastic improvement for Vsonic GR07? Smooth treble, wide and deep staging, sweet mids, and also some bass?
Thanks.
The 1Plus2 has a much larger sense of scale, seating you back in the audience several rows away. Has more lower bass, but overall a tighter and snappier response down below. Treble is brighter and a little harsher. Very detailed. Overall a definite hi-fi signature, not even close to neutral, imposes itself on everything (makes everything sound grandiose). Execution though is top notch, one of the best renditions of this type of approach I've encountered so far.
The TO GO! 334 is like the total opposite. Mids are the highlight of the signature. Bass is kind of slow but fairly well balanced to my ears. Treble is less emphasized but more refined, smoother. The presentation isn't trying to overtly impress or sparkle or inflate the surroundings, it instead does a fairly good job getting out of the way. A polite sound, but still plenty detailed and does a better job cooperating with a wider variety of material (more versatile than the 1Plus2 IMHO). Presentation is more up close and intimate, not as big and wide open like the 1Plus2.
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Has anyone heard the Tzar 90 and 350? I'm curious about the 350 specifically because it's supposed to be neutral and all plus the impedance allows for a bigger headroom on my DAP since I listen at very low volumes.
The Tzar 350 is not neutral by a long shot.
I have had the Tzar 350 for about 4 months. I generally agree with MF that they are not neutral. Please take my opinion with a grain of salt, unlike MF and many of the other fine members around here, I am fairly new to the hobby and am still learning. That being said I have really enjoyed my experience with the 350.
I would say that the 350 are on the brigher side of neutral. The treble does have a tendency to get harsh, and I am not overly sensitive to treble issues. I notice this especially with cymbals. They sound quite tinny/harsh and lack the appropriate timber and resonance to be realistic (neutral) with cymbals. Granted, this is probably one of the most difficult instruments to accurately portray, but if you listen to a lot of rock or older jazz records then they will likely become fatiguing. On higher quality recordings I don't notice the sibilance as much and they are the nicest IEMs that I have heard for classical music. My only real reference for these is the HD800 (which I own) and a number of other headphones which I tested out.
Besides the cymbal and overly bright treble I like them a lot. They have a solid natural sounding bass and fairly neutral mids (they may sound a little recessed due to the treble). I won't get into extension because I don't feel I have enough experience to adequately comment on that. The 350 has the best soundstage that I have heard for an IEM. They sound is clearly projected in a 3D manner compared to the other IEMs I have heard (the worst of which tend to sound mono by comparison). The HD800 they are not, but they are adequate for my portable listening. I also think they are very strong in imaging and low level resolution. Sometimes I feel that they image better than the HD800, though this is more likely a limitation of the rest of my gear with the HD800. The low level resolution is enough to keep me intrigued. I have no problem hearing details in recordings that I can hear in the HD800. I also think that they do quite well in portraying accurate tonal qualities of the instruments. I have played musical instruments all my life and played saxophone in a big band for a short time, so I do have some experience in this regard.
One last thing, they are immensely improved by using comply foam tips. They do a good job of cutting out the harshness from the treble. While they don't improve the tonal qualities of cymbals, they definitely make the 350 more versatile for all types of music. I listen to them for 5+ hours a day while I am at work. I listen at fairly low levels as well, which also helps avoid fatigue from treble.
I think overall it will depend on the music you listen to and whether you can deal with the treble. I am not talking about the harshness of the beyer T90s or T1, it only really bothers me on cymbal heavy music. Are they good value for money? At $400 I am not sure that they are. I have a feeling that others may be able to recommend something better for less. I like them because they are universal, they have replaceable cables (I got tired of my other IEM cables breaking), and like you said the high impedence allows you to have more headroom from your DAP.
I hope this helped
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The 1Plus2 has a much larger sense of scale, seating you back in the audience several rows away. Has more lower bass, but overall a tighter and snappier response down below. Treble is brighter and a little harsher. Very detailed. Overall a definite hi-fi signature, not even close to neutral, imposes itself on everything (makes everything sound grandiose). Execution though is top notch, one of the best renditions of this type of approach I've encountered so far.
The TO GO! 334 is like the total opposite. Mids are the highlight of the signature. Bass is kind of slow but fairly well balanced to my ears. Treble is less emphasized but more refined, smoother. The presentation isn't trying to overtly impress or sparkle or inflate the surroundings, it instead does a fairly good job getting out of the way. A polite sound, but still plenty detailed and does a better job cooperating with a wider variety of material (more versatile than the 1Plus2 IMHO). Presentation is more up close and intimate, not as big and wide open like the 1Plus2.
Thanks MF. One question, have you heard the k3003 before? Does 1+2 has that coherent issue as K3003?
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<snipped>
Thanks for your impressions! I would definitely try to listen to these when I get the chance.
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Please sprinkle some advice on me as well!
I'm looking to get my HD650 sold and buy a Paradox instead. The one thing that the HD650 does right is an extremely clean sounding midrange and distortion figures that back it up.
Is there something I'd miss when moving onto the Paradox? I do like neutral sound and the reason I'm letting the HD650 go is because I'm a tad fed up with the signature.
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Is there something I'd miss when moving onto the Paradox? I do like neutral sound and the reason I'm letting the HD650 go is because I'm a tad fed up with the signature.
IMO you would be missing the top end of the HD650 (the 'air') and you would be gaining forward and realistic mids albeit with slightly higher distortion in numbers. Also you will be missing the excessive warmth but reckon you want to get rid of exactly that aspect.
I cannot speak of experience about the paradox as I never heard one, but have do have my own modified T50's and HD650 (the old type) which won't sound that different to make an educated guess.
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Something that has been on my mind...
My portable headphone for a while now is the K181 DJ. Are there headphones that fold up and sound even enough through the frequency response?
I really like headphones that fold up. (AKG's axis system works really well.) Something that sounds okay (bass is present, subtle midbass bump is okay, smooth sounding midrange and highs...
P.S.
The M50 is nice, so is the SRH840 but both headphones are quite bulky even compared to the K181 DJ.
I will also check on the K167 but the non-detachable cable is a big minus in my experience.
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The M50 is nice, so is the SRH840 but both headphones are quite bulky even compared to the K181 DJ.
I'll go for M50 now. SRH840 was a disappointment as it sucked out the life of my songs with its uninspiring FR. TBH, YMMV. Some people over the Internet claimed to prefer the Shure over AT.
The SRH750 sounded FUN. Yet it is far far away from neutral.
How about the Sony MDR-1r? It's kinda nice actually. But nothing really stands out except for the glorious look (to my eyes) and the comfty cushions.
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I'll go for M50 now.
Some people over the Internet claimed to prefer the Shure over AT.
The M50 has been (silently) changed to a newer version (from around start 2012) this one sounds markedly different is less boomy and has better mids and highs.
Also taste has a lot to do with it, demonstrated by the eternal K701/DT880/HD650 debate.
I have tried several 'portable' headphones and from the open ones the KSC35/75/PortaPro stand out (as well as PX100, V-Jays and Yuin G2A).
As a closed one the HD25 (within it's limits) and, for me personally, the corrected DT1350 (my choclat is rather nice) are the ones that stand out.
Never could get along with AKG's (even though I tried and owned a few)
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The M50 is nice, so is the SRH840 but both headphones are quite bulky even compared to the K181 DJ.
I'll go for M50 now. SRH840 was a disappointment as it sucked out the life of my songs with its uninspiring FR. TBH, YMMV. Some people over the Internet claimed to prefer the Shure over AT.
The SRH750 sounded FUN. Yet it is far far away from neutral.
How about the Sony MDR-1r? It's kinda nice actually. But nothing really stands out except for the glorious look (to my eyes) and the comfty cushions.
The 1R is easy to find second hand but I do not trust Sony on consumer products. I actually thought about buying a bunch of MDR V6es, filling the cups, changing the cable and changing the pads. Sony's professional MDR-series are good for the money if cheap enough.
The M50 is a good option. I would make the cable detachable though. Even the cheap Superlux HD661 has a detachable cable and is easy to modify.
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I'll go for M50 now. SRH840 was a disappointment as it sucked out the life of my songs with its uninspiring FR. TBH, YMMV. Some people over the Internet claimed to prefer the Shure over AT.
Exactly. For some, more boring/polite = better technicality somehow. Personally, I've never heard/played a polite/boring instrument so nothing in my chain should sound that way. Especially the driver. Even the Recorder I played in elementary school was engaging and dynamic. I'd have to sit far enough in the back of a large live performance to allow enough sound to diffuse in order to mimic some stuff people seem to prefer.
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I prefer the sound of the 840 over the M50, but the 840 comfort is atrocious with that ridiculously heavy headband. At least the M50 goes on sale for cheaper, then you can slap some extra 840 pads on it which will improve comfort, isolation, and some bass response.
Considering the Sony V6 can be had for $60-ish (I've seen as low as $40 for the refurbs/b-stocks), I think they're excellent headphones. They sound decent, are more durable than the M50/840 (except for the pads which will flake/tear more easily), and far lighter and more compact.
I haven't heard the K167/267, though I'm curious to try them.
I'd also like to try the Urbanears Zinken. I actually liked the Plattan (good marks for durability/comfort/compactness as well), so I'm curious what the bigger brother sounds like.
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(http://nocigarmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/MAJOR-Monitor-CESpress-release6.jpg)
The Marshall Major Monitor, nice design...
I think the MDR V6es are still too expensive unless I find a used one. A second hand M50 for a nice price or M30 will be options for now too.
I might buy two cheap Panasonic RP-HTX7's and play with modifications. In stock form the possibilities are endless and it is already quite sturdy. (DT250 pads should fit and it does not grip your head like vice.)
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hmm:
Marshall Major
(http://en.goldenears.net/en/files/attach/images/254/958/008/4aecd7b5fc8204b61ead72b52eb27c29.png)
ATH-M50:
(http://en.goldenears.net/en/files/attach/images/254/034/010/5ebeef5a42b3c36d1db184b973db8d02.png)
SRH-840:
(http://en.goldenears.net/en/files/attach/images/254/213/004/39823e9441a31773f6b63be76e333fad.png)
K267:
(http://en.goldenears.net/en/files/attach/images/254/183/017/30a83c90a0dfa7bbdf975452469380dd.png)
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(http://doctorhead.ru/upload/iblock/2db/1.png)
The K181 on doctorhead.ru
It has more bass than you expect...
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These guys say it has more lows:
(http://www.geocities.jp/ryumatsuba/k181dj_f.gif)
red = LARGE, purple = SMALL
The Russian guys also have 2 plots:
(http://personalaudio.ru/raa/otchety/naushniki/akg-k-181-dj/AKG_K%20181%20DJ_spl.png)
The plots are also with LARGE and SMALL setting
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I went through dozens of headphones but kept the K181. A bit more comfort and I am through with portable headphones...
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I went through dozens of headphones but kept the K181. A bit more comfort and I am through with portable headphones...
Did you try the ATH-ESW9? I am totally happy with my UERMs, but from time to time I find myself wishing I hadn't sold the 9s. Colored, to be sure, but a very enjoyable coloration. Comfortable, and the wooden cups are flipping gorgeous.
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Gorgeous is not my thing. It has to be functional, sturdy and really isolate.
The K181 lacks comfort. The M50 is comfortable and sounded nice yet uneven. If the midrange sounds too absent I generally do not care about the headphone. The AKG midrange really spoiled me...
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The M50 has been (silently) changed to a newer version (from around start 2012) this one sounds markedly different is less boomy and has better mids and highs.
Has anyone confirmed this? or is this change just a guess based on other posts on HF. I wonder if its due to the typical variation in construction or if its really an intentional change made.
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The Marshall Major graphs from IF are terrible too, and possibly the worst distortion I've ever seen. The Marshall Monitors are different though. I wonder how they sound/measure.
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What do you more knowledgeable guys think of the L1 and L2 mods done to the Peachtree Nova125? I've no background to establish whether it's a mod worth paying the extra $ for or not.
Base/stock price is $1500.
Our modifications take this integrated amp from great value to simply great.
The modifications were designed by Chris Johnson, the founder and former president of Sonic Frontiers.
The following details our Level-1 mod:
1) We add 3 National Semiconductor LME 49720 "SMT" dual opamps to the input buffer, DAC buffer and headphone output buffer.
2) We add 2 MultiCap PPMFX Series metalized Polypropylene signal coupling caps
3) We add 8 Nichicon audio-grade FW & HZ series power supply electrolytic caps
4) We replace the cheap input/fuse holder with a Furutech AC inlet/fuse holder. This is Rhodium plated.
5) One sheet of Soundcoat is cut and placed on the chassis to dampen vibrations.
6) Four EAR Sorbothane isolation feet are added.
7) 10 feet of WBT solder is used in the mod
8) 3 hours labor to complete the mod.
The modified unit is more dynamic, has a warmer more liquid midrange and bigger soundstage. Imaging is more stable and hi frequencies are smoother with more detail. The L-1 modified amps are superb value and untouched at this price.
Prices
The Level-1 mod is $700.00 to your Nova 125
New modified Black Nova 125's are $1880.00 + freight
Add $100.00 in cherry or Rosewood
One year warranty on new modified units
We ship these worldwide in both 120 and 240 volts
We also offer a Level-2 mod that is the same as the Level-1 but replaces the three National Semiconductor opamps with 3 BURR-BROWN OPA627 DUAL op amp modules for the input buffer, DAC buffer and headphone/output buffer. The OPA-627 is the world’s best SMT single IC op amps. We mount them on custom PCB assemblies to create dual modules.
We also add 2 DEXA Technologies “discrete series” Power Supply regulators (+ & - 12V)
Prices
The Level-2 mod is $900.00 to your Nova 125
New Level-2 modified Black Nova 125's are $2190.00 + freight
Add $100.00 in cherry or Rosewood
One year warranty on new modified units
The Level-2 modified Nova 125 is an exceptionally fine amp that embarrasses most "name brand" $3500.00 integrated amps.
http://app.audiogon.com/listings/solid-state-peachtree-audio-modified-nova-125-exceptional-new-125wpc-amps-w-dac-s-2013-05-22-integrateds-30067
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for either Level 1 or level 2 mod, assuming 3 hours labor, and parts cost, you're being charged approx $200/hr for labor.
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The Marshall Major graphs from IF are terrible too, and possibly the worst distortion I've ever seen. The Marshall Monitors are different though. I wonder how they sound/measure.
according to Marshall something like this:
(http://www.marshallheadphones.com/client/zound/dynamic/articles/monitor-curve-520_2453.png)
It might be handy to include the thought that these are designed to be used as a monitor in very noisy environment in mind and are to be used at a very high SPL.
For that reason the highs MUST be rolled off otherwise they would be painful.
I think they were made for that purpose and thus makes them less suited as a hifi phone, lust like many DJ and prof phones (with a few exceptions) are hardly suited for hifi.
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The M50 has been (silently) changed to a newer version (from around start 2012) this one sounds markedly different is less boomy and has better mids and highs.
Has anyone confirmed this? or is this change just a guess based on other posts on HF. I wonder if its due to the typical variation in construction or if its really an intentional change made.
http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/AllGraphs.pdf
page 78 and page 79 ;)
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Thanks, the M50 and M35 are on the list...
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I love how the "FTF system" appears to just be a felt/foam disk. I wonder what it stands for... "filter top frequencies"?
I do like the look of 'em however.
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I love how the "FTF system" appears to just be a felt/foam disk. I wonder what it stands for... "filter top frequencies"?
I do like the look of 'em however.
Fools The Fanboys?
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I love how the "FTF system" appears to just be a felt/foam disk. I wonder what it stands for... "filter top frequencies"?
I do like the look of 'em however.
Fools The Fanboys?
Felt Treble Filter. and DIY communities everywhere LOL'd
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I guess this question get asked a lot (especially elsewhere), but any tips and recommendations on amp for HD 800? Under $500 and under $1k price brackets would be nice. Just thinking about picking something for now and upgrading later.
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Under $500 - Schiit Lyr. I haven't heard to many others in this category. I thought it sounded fine when I heard it at a meet, though the HD800 sounded largely the same as the HD600 and HD650. It just seemed like pairing it with the HD800 was kind of overkill, though if you plan on upgrading later I guess it could tide you over.
Under $1000 - More options, it depends on what kind of sound you want. If you have found your way here my guess would be you want clean/resolving without harshness. Not sure if that is really attainable in this category, at least if you are trying to approach the level where the HD800 separate themselves from other headphones. I will say I heard the Burson Soloist and again thought it sounded alright. There was nothing blatantly wrong, but nothing that really struck me as being awesome either. If the ultimate recommendation is something that I would buy then I couldn't really recommend it. If you want warm and fuzzy then look no further than the Woo WA2. I heard that as well. It kept the HD800 soundstage and added in a substantial dose of warmth. If you were going to spend $1000 I would just save up a little longer and get the Eddie Current Super 7. Either that or buy something cheaper and then upgrade later.
Generally in both of these categories I have not heard anything where I considered the HD800 to be worth it vs. other cheaper headphones, though if you already own them then you aren't really losing anything, especially if you plan on upgrading.
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I have a used pair of LFF Paradox coming in on Saturday. Is it possible to change the pads on them? Also, if I wanted it to be re-cabled, would I need to send it back to LFF or can I go with someone else like BTG-Audio?
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I think the LFF Paradox pads can be changed. But for recable , I heard they are sealed so they would need to go to LFF.
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Bear in mind though that changing pads does change the sound; at best it changes little to none, at worst, it changes everything. You could ask what LFF used for the pads to get the same pads. IIRC it's one of those pads from the FA003 or the multitude of its clones (or something).
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Generally in both of these categories I have not heard anything where I considered the HD800 to be worth it vs. other cheaper headphones, though if you already own them then you aren't really losing anything, especially if you plan on upgrading.
Thanks for the recommendations, I was thinking about that too, but also need a DAC.
What if I were to increase the bar to $2000?
Remember that it has to smoke Leckerton UHA6s mkII (which is portable, but excellent) to be worth it.
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At $2000 there are certainly more options. At $1650 the Super 7 is probably the best you can get for the money. I was going to buy one before I jumped up to the 2A3 and then the 2A3x4. $2000 is kind of a weird price range. In my research I didn't find a DAC or amp that I really wanted that was $2000. At that point I would rather spend a little less and save some money ~$1000-$1500, or spend a little more and get the best ~$2500+.
I just got the Anedio D2 last week and have been using the headphone output while waiting for my amp. It is actually pretty good. Maybe a bit bright for some people but I don't find it harsh with the HD800. I preferred it to the Stax 007/717 combo that I heard yesterday (using the Anedio as a DAC) if that means anything to you. The Lynx Hilo is another DAC with a headphone amp as. There is a review for the Hilo on this site which includes testing with the HD800. Maybe some of the Apex offerings...I never looked into those because I wanted tubes, but I hear they are nice. I recall reading in another thread that you wanted to use it with IEMs so maybe solid state or hybrid is a better option.
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Anyone want to recommend a good quality stepped attenuator? Spec sheet says 250kOhm, but I'm guessing anything close to that order of magnitude would be fine. I'm thinking about this one because it ain't too expensive:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160898417678?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#shId
Needs to be a knurled shaft too. Last time I ordered a pot on eBay it was a fake (I think) Alps that sounded all scratchy. Do not want that.
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Just got an email saying that I won some Westone 4R IEMs from a sweepstakes on HomeTheater.com/Source-Interlink.
Tyll suggests selling them & buying some Shure SE535s instead. I've been thinking about buying some decent IEMs, anyway, since I've never owned any IEMs before. I don't think I'll be able to spend much more money, but I'm slightly tempted to save up & just go all out on customs (like a JH13 or ES5) instead. I'm leaning toward the SE535s, though my impulsive/addict side is urging me to blow the extra $500 on customs.
Opinions/Advice from more experienced members?
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Anyone want to recommend a good quality stepped attenuator? Spec sheet says 250kOhm, but I'm guessing anything close to that order of magnitude would be fine. I'm thinking about this one because it ain't too expensive:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160898417678?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#shId
Needs to be a knurled shaft too. Last time I ordered a pot on eBay it was a fake (I think) Alps that sounded all scratchy. Do not want that.
i've never seen a knurled stepped attenuator before. why does it need to be knurled? what's it going into?
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Will be going into a Marantz 2220. I want to use the original knob (which is "female" knurled), or else it wouldn't gel with the faceplate.
I already ordered that one, so it should be here within a month (slow Chinese shipping facepalm) If it's crap I'll make sure to let you guys know.
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Just got an email saying that I won some Westone 4R IEMs from a sweepstakes on HomeTheater.com/Source-Interlink.
Tyll suggests selling them & buying some Shure SE535s instead. I've been thinking about buying some decent IEMs, anyway, since I've never owned any IEMs before. I don't think I'll be able to spend much more money, but I'm slightly tempted to save up & just go all out on customs (like a JH13 or ES5) instead. I'm leaning toward the SE535s, though my impulsive/addict side is urging me to blow the extra $500 on customs.
Opinions/Advice from more experienced members?
Sell them, bank the money, go to a meet and try to get 20% of whatever custom demo blows you away from UE. That would be my bang/buck suggestion. If you want JH13 or ES5 that's a different impulse altogether, not necessarily a bad one but more about IEM end game than value.
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Just got an email saying that I won some Westone 4R IEMs from a sweepstakes on HomeTheater.com/Source-Interlink.
Tyll suggests selling them & buying some Shure SE535s instead. I've been thinking about buying some decent IEMs, anyway, since I've never owned any IEMs before. I don't think I'll be able to spend much more money, but I'm slightly tempted to save up & just go all out on customs (like a JH13 or ES5) instead. I'm leaning toward the SE535s, though my impulsive/addict side is urging me to blow the extra $500 on customs.
Opinions/Advice from more experienced members?
Sell them, bank the money, go to a meet and try to get 20% of whatever custom demo blows you away from UE. That would be my bang/buck suggestion. If you want JH13 or ES5 that's a different impulse altogether, not necessarily a bad one but more about IEM end game than value.
Unfortunately, I live on the border of Illinois/Iowa (in the Quad-Cities area), so there are no meets close enough for me to attend (with the exception of Chicago, which is a 3 hour drive, and then I'd spend as much on gas & stuff as I'd save on any discounted custom there). I'm pretty much stuck with ordering online.
Right now, I'm thinking I'll sell the W4Rs, bank the money, and go with a more affordable IEM in the $100-$200 range (like the Audeo PFE 121 before they're all gone, Philips Fidelio S1, HiFiMan RE-400, or V-Sonic GR-07). Then, I'll just sell my HD650s and buy a JH13 when JH Audio has a sale (15%+) in the fall...or an ES5. I don't use my HD650s very often since they don't provide any isolation.
Out of curiosity...Ye pirates have any opinions on the Audeos, RE-400, Fidelio S1 or GR-07?
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RE-400 is pretty good.
How about going somewhere in the middle, UE-4?
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I mistrust entry-level & mid-range customs. From what I recall, Steve Guttenburg liked the UE-4s, though... Not many reviews on them or comparisons by reputable peeps. InnerFidelity mentioned that they may be working on a multiple entry-level custom review.
Found an awesome sale on Phonak Audeo PFE 132 (w/iDevice remote), so I think I'll probably go with those & then save up for some TOTL customs in the future when I find a good deal. I'm very big on comfort (and from what I've read, the PFEs' comfort factor is hard to beat) and mainly use Apple products, so they're looking very good to me. Hopefully the filters last a while, since I assume they're no longer made.
Side note...What's the cheapest anyone's heard of the JH13 Freq-Phase (or ES5) selling for (and where)? If I could get a new JH13 for 25% off I'd have a smile affixed to my face for a while...
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CeeTee has the UE4 and UERM. Shane55 on H-fi got the UE4 to replace his DBA-02. Might shoot them a pm and ask for their thoughts. I think LFF had the UE4 as well? Maybe it was UE10.
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Side note...What's the cheapest anyone's heard of the JH13 Freq-Phase (or ES5) selling for (and where)? If I could get a new JH13 for 25% off I'd have a smile affixed to my face for a while...
Do you mean being sold brand new? In that case, since they're customs you have to get them directly from the manufacturer. If you're willing to go used and reshell, Head-Fi's FS/T forum is the place to look.
I believe JH has discounts at certain times throughout the year (holidays, Black Friday), so if you have the patience you can wait it out. You could also go to a large headphone meet that the company attends and see if they offer a special meet price.
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anyone on here heard HiFiMAN RE-600 more extensively yet? I am about to get a pair and was just wondering if I should or shouldn't... afraid of them having similar dip in 2-5K range as the RE-400, but was told it does not. though just really want to make sure. so many IEM's in that range.
thanks!
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RE400 and RE600 sound very similar to me tonally except for a more linear bass response on the 600. I did not perceive any greater sense of clarity or brightness from an enhancement to the 2-5khz region like you would have heard between a 262 versus a 272.
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right.
that is a bit troubling... while I don't really know about the sense of clarity, it really takes away a lot of the impact that female vocals and vocals with high pitch etc have. did you give it a try?
like when a singer raises his/her voice, I really don't like the volume to go down. I'm sure you understand, V-shape or whatever.
linear bass response is good though, that was a minor issue for me about the 400's. but could live with it if I were to go with the 400's, as they're so cheap.
thanks!
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Yeah, if you are looking for the sort of treble dynamics to flesh out the brilliance of female vocals like a Tori Amos or Alison Krauss, I would not go for the RE600. Karen Carpenter would be just about the limit on the RE600 IMO.
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right. I am not fully convinced I won't like them but... a bit worried now then. I love Tori Amos.
is there anything that will do that in the price range of the RE-600 that is not custom? though customs that aren't in the awful-range are probably not doable...
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Hey there, Pirates.
One thing I love about this site is that no one is afraid to downplay any flaws that any gear might have, keeping out the flowery bullshit that skirts around evident flaws that one might see on Head-fi. So, may I humbly ask for the flaws of the HE-500s and the HD-600s, considering they both fill the niche as "all-around performers at a great price-point"?
Thanks in advance,
Jonah
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for HD600 I found them to be a bit lacking in details and quite muddy loose bass. I am not sure if amping hardcore (I used a cavalli amp with mine) would help with that but I have been told so.
for the HE-500: comfort was definitely an issue for me, not VERY bad just that I sometimes listen to music for far too long. a bit odd sounding in upper mids I think too, and a bit of a dip in the treble that messes with "timbre" ? or something. I really need to learn what that word means before using it... cymbals and stuff could be better, though I didn't mind it with most of my music. sort of like HD650 in that regard.
the HD600 may appear to have *less* flaws but I found it too muddy for my tastes in the end. great smooth linear FR maybe a bit rolled off in the sub bass? but not at all bad. inoffensive. super comfy too. pads need replacement yearly however.
I LOVE the HE-500 though, it's amazing sounding overall. I really don't mind the dip and it was not at all harsh enough to distract me. comfort is the biggest issue - and only one for me.
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Hey all,
I just started a decently paying contract for the summer and I'm working for the next six weeks or so. After taking into account tax, rent, and the bar on base that's open three nights a week, I figure I'll have about $700 to get an entirely new headphone setup for my next year of university (I sold most of my old stuff before leaving town). Any recommendations for a complete setup (DAC, amp, headphones) for listening from my computer? Open/closed doesn't matter, I just can't really be using speakers because my apartment's walls are kinda thin. I already have my Spiral Ear CIEMs that are on the warm side of neutral so I'm looking for something more detailed and with good soundstaging.
Edit: Comfort is pretty important, I'll be wearing them for long listening sessions and the AKG K550 I had before kept sliding off my head.
Thanks!
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HD600, CMoy and a nice digital source? You have plenty of choice...
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right. I am not fully convinced I won't like them but... a bit worried now then. I love Tori Amos.
is there anything that will do that in the price range of the RE-600 that is not custom? though customs that aren't in the awful-range are probably not doable...
well I somehow ended up with the RE-600, and I can't say I've heard much better in an IEM.
better than RE-400, very similar FR curve though. may post more impressions if anyone is curious.
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Anybody have any suggestions for a battery power supply to use with a Gilmore Lite? The Elpac power supply that came with it is rated 240mA, +/- 15V.
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Anybody willing to help me choose a DAC upgrade. Currently my main setup is computer -> ODAC -> Soloist SL -> HE-500. I'm wondering if I can get a nice upgrade for ~$600 (my budget can probably increase to ~$800 if I get drunk enough right before ordering). The Concero seems to be well liked in this price range but I'm concerned about the usb power. Can anybody comment on how it compares to the Bifrost and Gungnir which are in the same price area but are not usb powered? Thanks
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Has anyone tried the Alpha or Mad Dog pads on any Audio Technica 'phones? The description mentions that they fit well enough on the HE seires. And I'm already using those (the Hifiman) pads on my AT, so I'm guessing they should be interchangeable.
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Anybody willing to help me choose a DAC upgrade. Currently my main setup is computer -> ODAC -> Soloist SL -> HE-500. I'm wondering if I can get a nice upgrade for ~$600 (my budget can probably increase to ~$800 if I get drunk enough right before ordering). The Concero seems to be well liked in this price range but I'm concerned about the usb power. Can anybody comment on how it compares to the Bifrost and Gungnir which are in the same price area but are not usb powered? Thanks
Based on my experience with what NuForce pulled off with their Icon HD I love it and recommend it, though I'd actually suggest the Icon HDP. If you want more, step up to their UDH-100. Anyway, the Icon HD was a revelation to me when I first used it. The HDP has a few more features but the USB and headamp stages are the same. It's got enough juice for your HE-500 to go beyond 110dB. Just make sure to plug in the power BEFORE you plug in the USB. Trust me on that one.
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Hi!
I'm using LCD-2 with a Schiit Lyr and Schiit Modi.
Do you guys know any <=$1200 DACs I can replace the Modi with?
I -really- like bass and warmth. I wish the LCD-2 had a little bit more of it; can any DACs help with that?
I'm slightly interested in Schiit Gungnir because of this (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Ao9CyUbvb2nFdHZ4RlZaQ2JwX1JsZG9vQlAtTmhvM2c#gid=0), but I'm a little turned off because apparently it makes clicking-sounds inbetween tracks. Unless you use USB(?)
I'd love to hear what you think!
Thanks!
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I have a USB Uber Bifrost/Asgard 2, no clicks between tracks, I think.
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Schiit states on their website that with USB you do not get clicking: http://schiit.com/faq/dac-problems
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I don't necessarily think that choosing a colored dac is the best way to obtain the sound you are interested in. However, I would look into one of the NOS dacs such as the Neko or Metrum. Either that or try to find a ladder dac. Those options should give you a warmer sound, though changing your amp may give you better results.
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So Ibasso DX50 is really hyped on Head-fi, any more modest opinions on sound here on Changstar?
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Wait for the firmware not to suck terrible monkey butt, then look at the the DX50.
Okay, here's a doozy. Anyone know where I can demo an Abyss in the SF Bay Area? I am curious, but I want to take a listen before I jump right in.
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Thoughts on closed back headphones:
Momentum on ear vs Mr Speakers mad dogs (amped) vs KEF M500 vs Sony MDR-1r vs Sennheiser Amperior
Thanks a bunch
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Amperior clamps on ear, not sure if that is an issue for you. Wasn't too bad for me, but I do hate most on ears passionately.
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If I was going to try something over ear to be portable again, I'd try the Mad Dog or Paradox.
I'm with Anax... On ear ends up bugging me after a while.
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Me too. I've had some A-T "Ear suits" and a few other on ears and I've found all of them to be comfortable for no more than an hour, tops.
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I've had a few on-ears that didn't bother me over time... ESW9a, B&W P5, Senn PX-100, er maybe that's it. I think the Amperior headband is slightly different than the regular HD25 headband. The Amperior is much more comfortable for me.
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I don't want to fall into the trap of getting a simply audiophile headphone.
Will the Mr Speakers Mad Dogs make the music sound interesting or are they more aimed at reference?
I do listen to a wide range of genres though so I am not a basshead or anything like that. I also have a Fiio amp so driving them wouldn't be too much work
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http://www.head-fi.org/t/639948/review-closed-portable-circumaural-around-ear-headphone-comparison-m50-z1000-tma-1-s-momentum-ue6000-mdr-1r
I'm friends with the author of that comparison piece, and I can vouch that he has good ears. He also doesn't approach things strictly from an "audiophile angle" which you might find useful.
Oh noes... a HF link! Quick, before it ends up being deleted! ...Oh wait.
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Mad Dogs sounded interesting to me, but it really depends. your preferences might be very different. I liked the slight bass boost with its slightly darker sound, but it still is resolving enough to be interesting for me.
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http://www.head-fi.org/t/639948/review-closed-portable-circumaural-around-ear-headphone-comparison-m50-z1000-tma-1-s-momentum-ue6000-mdr-1r (http://www.head-fi.org/t/639948/review-closed-portable-circumaural-around-ear-headphone-comparison-m50-z1000-tma-1-s-momentum-ue6000-mdr-1r)
I'm friends with the author of that comparison piece, and I can vouch that he has good ears. He also doesn't approach things strictly from an "audiophile angle" which you might find useful.
Oh noes... a HF link! Quick, before it ends up being deleted! ...Oh wait.
Yeah, he wasn't on my ignore list over there which must count for something. I stand by his M50 and Z1000 impressions, pretty spot on based on my hearing. Haven't heard the other candidates. Always confused me the people that had no problem w/ the Z1000's low end.
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If I was going to try something over ear to be portable again, I'd try the Mad Dog or Paradox.
I'm with Anax... On ear ends up bugging me after a while.
Just chiming in, I went from KEF M500/Momentum/MDR-1Rs to the Paradox and it's a clear step up. Even straight out of my AK120 headphone output, the Paradox is head and shoulders better.
That being said, the former 3 are a little more portable in terms of size. The Paradox is a full sized can and I look like a doofus carrying it around.
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uhh so I was thinking maybe getting a pair of headphones for gaming that are super comfortable with good build and OK sound.
nothing harsh as I'll probably use for movies and stuff as well. preferably driven by right out of mobo integrated sound... if not, Leckerton UHA 760 if that is released soon.
though comfort is key, I used to have HD555 but I found them a bit muddy. was hard to pinpoint where the sounds came from sometimes. something a bit clearer but similar would be awesome.
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What's your budget, munch? Open or closed? I use the K601 for casual gaming when it's late. They have a bit more clarity than the Senns and image fairly well. Then again the 558 is a bit of an improvement over the 555 anyway. If you value comfort and solid build then the Beyer 880 should also be in the running.
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oh yeah, forgot that part... $200 I think, open for sure, I hate voice chat when I barely can hear myself.
love the comfort of dt880 but hated the sound of 600 Ohm version, are the other ones vastly different? those ones had NO mid-range whatsoever.
I'm actually pretty competitive when it comes to gaming so it would help if they were great for that as well.
K601 yeah... had K701 and didn't like the comfort at all. but could be just because pads were super stiff and headband can be fixed right?
good options though, will be a few more weeks til I get them so open to more suggestions!
thanks! :)
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Pretty much each beyer in the 770/880/990 range has a v-shaped response, IIRC the most neutral is the 250 ohm 880. I had the K701s and preferred both the sound and comfort of the K601s, which have a different headband but the same pads. I don't much mind the AKG pads but the beyer pads blow them out of the water.
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Just chiming in, I went from KEF M500/Momentum/MDR-1Rs to the Paradox and it's a clear step up. Even straight out of my AK120 headphone output, the Paradox is head and shoulders better.
That being said, the former 3 are a little more portable in terms of size. The Paradox is a full sized can and I look like a doofus carrying it around.
Tell me difference between Mom and MDR.
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Pretty much each beyer in the 770/880/990 range has a v-shaped response, IIRC the most neutral is the 250 ohm 880. I had the K701s and preferred both the sound and comfort of the K601s, which have a different headband but the same pads. I don't much mind the AKG pads but the beyer pads blow them out of the water.
ah okay, hmm well it almost leans towards getting 558's at this point. V-shaped is evil.
k601 are still available to buy? thought these were older than me. k701 was discontinued etc right?
tempting. will see what there is to buy in a bit
thanks again!
oh and purrin:
momentums and 1R are very different cans. the momentums are far more even but with a slight bass/treble emphasis, just very very slight.
warm but not overly bassy or anything. smooth-ish.
1R got a pretty huge 100Hz or so bump in bass, I don't know where but it's definitely mid-bass.
midrange is quite forward too, with a pretty good treble balance. upper mids are definitely not recessed here, like they might seem on momentums
but overall the momentums are clearer and more resolving I find, with a not-bad FR.
1R wins in comfort and looks though, by a mile. haven't tried anything comfier I think.
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Tell me difference between Mom and MDR.
If you still have access to HF and didn't lock yourself out again, I recommend checking out a_recording's impressions on the Momentum vs. Sony. He goes into quite a bit of detail.
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Tell me difference between Mom and MDR.
If you still have access to HF and didn't lock yourself out again, I recommend checking out a_recording's impressions on the Momentum vs. Sony. He goes into quite a bit of detail.
Or this relatively tl;dr video of the comparison post: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3eMPR2ox8A
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Got it. Don't like on ear designs. Going MDR and hoping I can mod the bass.
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Got it. Don't like on ear designs. Going MDR and hoping I can mod the bass.
Caveat: All these impressions are from owning the original MDR-1R, not the mk2.
If you have small ears, the bigger momentum is over ear. Otherwise it's not easy to get a seal. The Sony is WAY more comfy.
The Senns were a little more detailed and better driven from my phone/portable sources. The Sony has a little bit of a flabby bottom end. Both were rolled off up top.
I'd be curious to try the Sony mk2.
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Got it. Don't like on ear designs. Going MDR and hoping I can mod the bass.
http://rinchoi.blogspot.ca/2013/08/on-modification-of-sony-mdr-1r-its-as.html
not sure if I'm allowed to link this guy's blog on here but it might help somehow. it will likely do a lot to the sound more than just tuning bass and midrange.
some minor update whatever:
I think I've narrowed it down to HD598, K612 and possibly DT880-250. OR HD600 if I can find for a good price.
edit2:
got a pair of HD650 new version, brand new condition almost, for $200ish lucky find. hope they'll do. I like them for music a lot.
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Hello again people. I am asking this as a matter of "urgency" because there is a great deal on one of these cans. Which, out of the kef m500 and PSB m4u 1 is bassier? I listened to and enjoyed the psbs when I tried them but having searched the web, I've heard nothing but good things about the kefs.
Some advice would be great.
Thanks
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The new around the ear Momentum is really nicely tuned. Warmish with slightly softer highs while still giving a somewhat balanced sound.
For the quality and build the price is about right, consumer wise... (A K81/518 does the job just as well with less comfort, more isolation and less detailed sound.)
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hmm kind of dumb but: HD650 straight out of computer motherboard isn't going to sound very good I'd imagine.
is there any rather cheap dac/amp solution that will do them some justice at least? like, cheaper than even modi magni combo?
maybe a used magni + that really cheap sabre DAC that was posted here would do?
just need something to keep me over until I can get the Leckerton thingy.
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I've used my K701 directly from my PC motherboard out. Won't turn you into a zombie or anything.
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I've used my K701 directly from my PC motherboard out. Won't turn you into a zombie or anything.
right! but I was more thinking if it's going to sound really lame, of course. :P or if it even has enough volume. I don't remember them being easy to drive.
I have never really tried them unamped except from a phone which just didn't drive the volume up loud enough.
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HD650 sounds really sleepy without a proper amp. The FiiO E10 didn't do them any justice.
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HD650 sounds really sleepy without a proper amp. The FiiO E10 didn't do them any justice.
yeah that is my concern. :(
is that a 'no' to Magni or is it actually kind of powerful?
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Magni has 15V power rails. HD650 loves voltage so, that might just do the trick.
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cool. I'm tempted to try it. not sure why but I expect some sub-bass drop due to my previous experiences with Magni... not that it would bother me too much.
also: is it worth getting a used Modi over the cheapo sabre DAC (if it is any decent at all)? if the modi is 2x the price.
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Any recommendations of amp/DAC combos for IEMs (IE800)? Gonna be primary listening on computer, tho compact and portable is always a plus. I'm just lost what to get for them - dongle DAC (like LH Geek Out, HRT microStreamer, etc.), portable amp/DAC unit (like Leckerton UHA760, JDS C5D, etc.) or maybe get some Schiit desktop stack (like Vali/Modi)?
No real budget, something within $200-300 and up to $500 is fine. My library is all about redbook and i don't think i really care about hi-res and DSD that much.
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I thought the Apex Glacier had some of the best synergy with the IE800 I'd heard. Unfortunately my Glacier was buggy requiring multiple resets as well as noisy, with audible hiss. Others don't seem to have this problem though, so you may went to try it. You can always return it if it doesn't work out anyway.
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I have the Apex, the IE800 sounded swell out of it. I ended up not being able to deal with the treble having heard a competitor with a fuller treble.
MF, how does the xba-h3 sound compared to the ie800 (or in general)? Better than the ex-1000 if you tape the h3's vents?
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Well, you guys did contribute to my IE800 purchase. I'll check into Glacier. Do you have any other recommendations?
@MF Yeh, i think i remember reading about it. You did sent it to Todd in the end, did you successfully exchanged it or just returned? I also remember you saying good things about UHA-6S.MKII, do you think i should look into it for IE800? 1 thing that worries me about it is channel imbalance with the pot, since i do listen on low volume levels. I guess i should just search a bit in the diary thread.
@Kunlun What competitor, something from Noble? Actually i would really like to know MF's thoughts on XBA-H3/IE800, was really considering it before getting the latter.
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Well, you guys did contribute to my IE800 purchase. I'll check into Glacier. Do you have any other recommendations?
@MF Yeh, i think i remember reading about it. You did sent it to Todd in the end, did you successfully exchanged it or just returned? I also remember you saying good things about UHA-6S.MKII, do you think i should look into it for IE800? 1 thing that worries me about it is channel imbalance with the pot, since i do listen on low volume levels. I guess i should just search a bit in the diary thread.
@Kunlun What competitor, something from Noble? Actually i would really like to know MF's thoughts on XBA-H3/IE800, was really considering it before getting the latter.
The uha-6s mkii has a more bloomy bass than the glacier, so I'd say that wouldn't be as good with the ie800 as you don't need more bass. Also, the channel imbalance was a deal breaker for me as I listen at moderate volumes. Digital volume pots are now the only way to go for me.
As for the competitor, it's "coming soon"...
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As for the competitor, it's "coming soon"...
Kunlun did you notice Fiio named their latest product after you ..?
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Darn, you beat me to it...
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As for the competitor, it's "coming soon"...
Kunlun did you notice Fiio named their latest product after you ..?
I'm offended it's not a limited edition flagship made of gold or platinum. *:p
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Magni has 15V power rails. HD650 loves voltage so, that might just do the trick.
so I got the M&M combo, it's actually really darn good for HD650.
... now I'm tempted to get the Vali... but M&M combo does do HD650 some justice on a budget TBH.
thanks!
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Any recommendations of amp/DAC combos for IEMs (IE800)? Gonna be primary listening on computer, tho compact and portable is always a plus. I'm just lost what to get for them - dongle DAC (like LH Geek Out, HRT microStreamer, etc.), portable amp/DAC unit (like Leckerton UHA760, JDS C5D, etc.) or maybe get some Schiit desktop stack (like Vali/Modi)?
No real budget, something within $200-300 and up to $500 is fine. My library is all about redbook and i don't think i really care about hi-res and DSD that much.
If computer listening is the priority I think I'd wait and see if the Geek Out lives up to the hype. It might be a great solution.
I used the Pico DAC/AMP with the IE800 and thought it was a good combination when computer listening. The Verza IE800 combo was just a little too "colorful" for me.
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The uha-6s mkii has a more bloomy bass than the glacier, so I'd say that wouldn't be as good with the ie800 as you don't need more bass. Also, the channel imbalance was a deal breaker for me as I listen at moderate volumes. Digital volume pots are now the only way to go for me.
As for the competitor, it's "coming soon"...
With the Leckerton, you can choose opamps and also request that Nick lower the gain by 12db to account for sensitive iems. You give up the High Gain maximum gain for larger phones though. I think -6db is good for the UERM. (Had the Leck at -12db and Nick adjusted it back to standard gain for me). The new 760 Leck on pre-order right now has digital attenuation plus 3 gain positions so the -12db is now "built-in" without customization needed.
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Any recommendations of amp/DAC combos for IEMs (IE800)? Gonna be primary listening on computer, tho compact and portable is always a plus. I'm just lost what to get for them - dongle DAC (like LH Geek Out, HRT microStreamer, etc.), portable amp/DAC unit (like Leckerton UHA760, JDS C5D, etc.) or maybe get some Schiit desktop stack (like Vali/Modi)?
No real budget, something within $200-300 and up to $500 is fine. My library is all about redbook and i don't think i really care about hi-res and DSD that much.
If computer listening is the priority I think I'd wait and see if the Geek Out lives up to the hype. It might be a great solution.
I used the Pico DAC/AMP with the IE800 and thought it was a good combination when computer listening. The Verza IE800 combo was just a little too "colourful" for me.
Yeh, i might actually just do that. Still considering it, even tho i don't need some of features. I wish i'd put the pre-order on KS when i had a chance - it was much cheaper and the green aluminum enclosure, which i like the most, is now KS exclusive color according to Larry.
Thanks everyone for recommendations. I was pretty hard for me to find right pair of IEMs that would fit my needs. But when it comes to amp/DAC stuff my brain is about to explode...
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With the Leckerton, you can choose opamps and also request that Nick lower the gain by 12db to account for sensitive iems. You give up the High Gain maximum gain for larger phones though. I think -6db is good for the UERM. (Had the Leck at -12db and Nick adjusted it back to standard gain for me). The new 760 Leck on pre-order right now has digital attenuation plus 3 gain positions so the -12db is now "built-in" without customization needed.
It sounds like Leckerton are able to set the UHA760 to an ideal gain setting and install the ADA4637-1 then.
Note the sonic comparison in this post - http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/150222-ada-4627-ada4627-1-outperform-burr-browns-opa-627-opa627-2.html#post2883823
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So my question got buried pretty fast in the chat box..
Need something for 3-4 plugs worth of power. I usually use a UPS, but I was thinking of something different, but it would be used with my audio system. Did some quick searching and came up with the Belkin PF60, which people rave about, but I don't need that much stuff, so I was thinking the PF30.
Any suggestions, or should I go with that? I like the size and how it looks and the price is alright. I also like that the cord is 8 feet, a bit longer than usual. I need at least 6-7 feet.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?gclid=CJXW09-Ak7sCFcY1Qgodow8AZg&Item=N82E16812107550&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-Audio+%2f+Video+Accessories-_-N82E16812107550&ef_id=UoZUrgAAAbiRPnap:20131203022806:s
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I have a PF60 that I picked up on sale a couple of years ago (2011) for $120. It developed a terrible whine after a year and a half. I need to diagnose the problem, but it's still worrisome.
I purchased an APC H15 in 2009 for $100 and it's still running strong. It saved my bacon until I upgraded the electrics in my old home and installed a 300A breaker box. I had all kinds of issues with clean power to my home theater and the APC gracefully handled 2 13Av2s on 2 behringer EP2500s just fine along with my emotiva power amps and my projector. The home was built in the 40s and the wiring was complete shit pre-upgrade so it really had it's work cut out for it.
I know this is anecdotal, but if I had to do it again, I'd trust APC. The Belkin was supposed to be an upgrade but even with much better wiring and incredibly stable power in the house, it managed to crap out on me.
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How about the APC G5BLK then?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?gclid=CK-o2c2Vk7sCFQllfgodcVIALA&Item=N82E16842101432&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-UPS+Accessories-_-N82E16842101432&ef_id=UoZUrgAAAbiRPnap:20131203040126:s
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Unsure. I'd check around on AVSforum. They (arguably) have much more ridiculous power requirements than most people here do.
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So, this is where I come for advice, eh? Let's give it a shot.
Home Setup: Sony Vaio Laptio --> HRT MSII --> Schiit Asgard 1 --> DT880 (250)
Work Setup: Desktop --> Audinst HUD-mx1 --> DT1350
Vinyl: Pro-Ject Debut Carbon (Ortofon 2M Red) --> Pro-Ject Phono Box USB V --> Onkyo Receiver --> Pioneer SP-BS22-LR
My past headphones were Grado SR80i and SRH 940s. I liked them both, but eventually found them to be too thin-sounding. I know a lot of people feel that the 880s are a bit dry and analytical, but they sounded extremely musical to my ears after my time with the other two headphones. After listening to the 1350s, I now know why people have the impression of the 880s that they do. While I may prefer the 1350s warmer sound (in comparison to the 880s), I'll still keep going back to the 880s due to the open-design and bigger soundstage that it brings.
I honestly have no idea what to upgrade next. All I know is that I have the "itch".
I've toyed with the idea of the HE-500s, but that's a BIG expenditure for me and I don't know that I have the equipment to drive them properly anyway. I've thought of upgrading my amp (Lyr, maybe?) with the possible idea of getting the 500s down the road. The Bifrost has also been on my wishlist for ages.
I'm pretty content with my work setup.
As for vinyl, there are a couple of cheap turntable upgrades that have been on my wishlist for a while, so that's tempting as well. Namely the Speed Box S and Acryl-it Platter.
So, help me out people...take my wallet and spend my money!
:money:
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I was under the impression that the 500's were pretty easy to drive? That said I do recall purrin and others saying they do dig moat power...
Which of the three set ups would you like to upgrade the most? Are you feeling a little let down by any of them?
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Asgard can drive the HE500 no problem. I think that's your best path.
Although the turntable upgrades are a good idea if you can only pick one.
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I was under the impression that the 500's were pretty easy to drive? That said I do recall purrin and others saying they do dig moat power...
Which of the three set ups would you like to upgrade the most? Are you feeling a little let down by any of them?
I've heard a lot of people say that the Asgard would get plenty of volume out of them, but wouldn't show their true potential by a long shot. If I got the HE-500s, I would probably look into something like an Emotiva speaker amp eventually. Or possibly the Lyr. But, I'd be stuck with the Asgard for a while at least since it would take plenty of time to gather more funds.
I'm not really feeling let down by any of my setups. This is nothing more than the curiosity of what else is out there.
Is the Bifrost something that wouldn't make a huge difference due to the rest of my setup? I've always felt the allure of having a nice Schiit stack to look at. Plus, I'd like to get away from USB-powered gear like my MSII.
Still, when it comes down to pure sound improvement, it seems like the headphones will have the biggest impact right now.
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Here's a doozy, pirates. I am looking for the best easily available master of "A Night at the Opera" in either DSD or redbook format (disc or download is fine). I have the DVD-A but no way to play it at my desk with my main rig.
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Here's a doozy, pirates. I am looking for the best easily available master of "A Night at the Opera" in either DSD or redbook format (disc or download is fine). I have the DVD-A but no way to play it at my desk with my main rig.
If you trust Steve Hoffman (ahem), I think the answer is just to grab the "2011 remaster" CD from Amazon.
http://forums.stevehoffman.tv/threads/queen-a-night-at-the-opera-cd-comparison.246608/
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EDIT: Nevermind, Burns beat me to it.
I have the 2011 remasters done by Bob Ludwig (from the original tapes) -- and they are good. I'd bet the Hoffman ones are good as well. Probably can't go wrong with either of them.
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Ordered the APC G5BLK. Looks better anyway :)p13
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I've heard a lot of people say that the Asgard would get plenty of volume out of them, but wouldn't show their true potential by a long shot. If I got the HE-500s, I would probably look into something like an Emotiva speaker amp eventually. Or possibly the Lyr. But, I'd be stuck with the Asgard for a while at least since it would take plenty of time to gather more funds.
I'm not really feeling let down by any of my setups. This is nothing more than the curiosity of what else is out there.
Is the Bifrost something that wouldn't make a huge difference due to the rest of my setup? I've always felt the allure of having a nice Schiit stack to look at. Plus, I'd like to get away from USB-powered gear like my MSII.
Still, when it comes down to pure sound improvement, it seems like the headphones will have the biggest impact right now.
Always upgrade the headphone first. The HE-500 is very good, but if you favor the open sound of the 880 you might consider saving up for the Sennheiser HD800.
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I should have followed this flow chart a long time back...
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I should have followed this flow chart a long time back...
I have an HD600 and I support that flowchart! :)p7
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I should have followed this flow chart a long time back...
Yeh, life would be so much easier...
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I've heard a lot of people say that the Asgard would get plenty of volume out of them, but wouldn't show their true potential by a long shot. If I got the HE-500s, I would probably look into something like an Emotiva speaker amp eventually. Or possibly the Lyr. But, I'd be stuck with the Asgard for a while at least since it would take plenty of time to gather more funds.
I'm not really feeling let down by any of my setups. This is nothing more than the curiosity of what else is out there.
Is the Bifrost something that wouldn't make a huge difference due to the rest of my setup? I've always felt the allure of having a nice Schiit stack to look at. Plus, I'd like to get away from USB-powered gear like my MSII.
Still, when it comes down to pure sound improvement, it seems like the headphones will have the biggest impact right now.
Always upgrade the headphone first. The HE-500 is very good, but if you favor the open sound of the 880 you might consider saving up for the Sennheiser HD800.
Well, open isn't the be all and all of what I'm looking for. It's just the reason I would prefer the 880 to the 1350 since the 1350 is so congested due to the small cup size.
From what I've read the HE-500 sounds right up my alley. Of course, I'll never know til I try.
Anyone here from TN with some awesome gear they could let me demo? :P
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I would approve that flowchart, but I'm too busy listening to my HD600.
Wait....
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I would approve that flowchart, but I'm too busy listening to my HD600.
Wait....
This is a headphone I've always wanted to try.
Sadly, the only Senn. I've ever heard has been the HD-25-ii.
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Heya
What you pirates think Should I trade 650 for HE400?, listening classical baroque music and opera, hence vocal is important
Please let me know your opinions I have time to think until this evening
cheers
Lumos :-DD
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I like HD650 better for vocals, by a fair bit. HE-400 has a lot better bass and I feel is more detailed and faster though. but the FR balance is just better for vocals on the HD650 for me.
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I like HD650 better for vocals, by a fair bit. HE-400 has a lot better bass and I feel is more detailed and faster though. but the FR balance is just better for vocals on the HD650 for me.
Thanks mostly I am afraid that HE400 will have ,,hollow'' sound something noticeable lacking in upper mids in comparison with 650. never listened orthoes, and it would be better if I grub Fostex 50 and try to mod them :)p7
Thanks
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I think it's the "ortho wall"? or whatever it is and the fact that some of the treble gets a bit loud that takes away from vocals for me. but other than that I think they're both really really good.
if it was HE-500 however...
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Yeah... the HE-500. That would be a closer call. But HE-500 is significantly more $$$.
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I've got that itch to try a different headphone and hoping to get something I want to keep for a long time. I find I very easily develop listening and comfort fatigue, the former of which I think is mostly due to treble issues. I'm hoping to find something I finally don't want to EQ, because that isn't always available. Closed headphones would be nice for isolation purposes and being polite while others sleep, but that's not a necessity. I have some possible candidates in mind, but I wanted to see what others might recommend based on what I've heard before (in no particular order):
1. Paradox, Mad Dog 3.2, Alpha Dog - First, I want to note that I have yet to find some iteration of the T50RP that I don't want to EQ the treble on. They all seem to have some sort of emphasis around 9-10KHz and have a certain treble quality to them that can get to me after a while. The Paradox was the most well-rounded of the bunch from what I can remember, but I did like that the Mad Dog was a tad bit more laid-back. It was decent enough until the latest revision, which I'm actually quite happy with overall. Still, I have to EQ the Mad Dog as well and can find it a bit too much at times. The Alpha Dog just killed me around 5KHz and 10KHz. Was not a smooth, comfortable listening experience with heavier material like Opeth or even some "energetic" bands like Radiohead (post-OK Computer, In Rainbows is my favorite album). However, I did like how the Alpha Dog handled bass relative to the Mad Dog...more control and authority, cleaner. I think my favorite was the Alpha Dog with a decent amount of EQ to those treble spots.
None of these really do it for me in terms of comfort. 1 hour and I'm out. Head hurts too much. I always had to apply additional cushioning to these headphones. I'm most sensitive at the top of my head.
2. AKG K702 65th AE - Not bad, not super great. It was a bit less cohesive (more lo-fi?) sounding than a good T50RP mod, but that's not the problem. It had some sort of spike around 2KHz that I could not deal with. Smooth that out and it was a pretty agreeable headphone. Fairly comfortable overall, though the pads hindered that (scratchy and just didn't fit quite perfectly).
3. HE-500 - Sometimes I put this on and love it, sometimes I just don't know what to think, and sometimes it just hurts my ears. Sometimes it sounds nice and full, other times it sounds thin. It doesn't help that it's ergonomics aren't designed for the human head, weighs a good bit, and has no cushioning to help support it. The jergpads really helped out with the sound, but I still find them too tizzy and bright. EQing down that hump that starts around 6-7KHz helps a lot. The jergpad-ish/modded alpha pads I tried on it greatly help with comfort (not eliminate) and also help give a more laid-back, warm sound while also really helping the soundstage and overall openness to the sound. The downside is that the sound takes on a little bit lighter quality to it.
4. HD598 - Been a while since I've heard these (about 2 years), but I remember loving how open and natural they sounded. They could occasionally sound a little thin and boring with some of my music, but generally this was not an issue. Not too many complaints otherwise. Based on measurements, better THD and less scratchy pads would be nice.
5. HM5/FA-003 - Nope. Can't even describe it, but it was just nope to my ears. At least the pads are nice...
Thoughts and suggestions? Current candidates include HD600/650, Sony MA900, LCD-2...I know the LCD-2 has that mid/treble shelf, but that might actually be what I need. On the other hand, I'm not sure about comfort. I do prefer a darker sound over a brighter sound. A little bit of extra bass or mid-bass is not an issue, but too little can be.
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The hd600s is a good place to start. If it's still a bit brighter than you like, then probably the hd650. I do have issues with the hd600 + vali combo though.
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I've got that itch to try a different headphone and hoping to get something I want to keep for a long time. I find I very easily develop listening and comfort fatigue, the former of which I think is mostly due to treble issues.
Thoughts and suggestions? Current candidates include HD600/650, Sony MA900, LCD-2...
I find the MA900 to be very comfortable (of course they have zero isolation), and a very good value per dollar. They give a wonderful sense of open space, and I find that it is fun to listen to favorite music on them, as they provide a different perspective.
I'm not sure how they would fit your treble requirements, although I don't find them bright (but I also don't find the Alpha Dogs bright either). They are sometimes "grainy" and at other times not at all, it is hard to figure out why. The timbre is a weak point (similar to the Vali amp in that sense).
But a prolific Head-Fi'er with neck pain changed to the MA900 solely because they are so light - so if you have those sorts of problems the MA900 might work for you.
Have you considered IEMs - zero pressure on the top of your head !
My current headphones are Alpha Dog, Mad Dog 3.2, and MA900 and I plan to keep those until they are replaced by something better. I have HE400, but I am packing those to put up for sale (I'll probably put a notice in the appropriate place here in case a pirate is looking for a mint used pair).
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How do you find the MA900 compares to the MD3.2? My main problem is pain on the top of my head. The fatigue on my neck and such doesn't come until much later.
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How do you find the MA900 compares to the MD3.2? My main problem is pain on the top of my head. The fatigue on my neck and such doesn't come until much later.
They are way different in almost every way. Open vs Closed, big open soundstage vs shallow soundstage, lively vs controlled, poor timbre vs excellent timbre, very lightweight vs slightly more than average weight.
If you are only talking about the physical comfort aspect, then the MA900 are one of the lightest in weight. Clamping force is about zero.
See
http://www.head-fi.org/t/663121/sony-mdr-ma900-appreciation-thread
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Greetings ladies and gerbils,
I'm a noob when it comes to IEMs of any sort. The last time I even used anything "in-ear" for listening to music was back in secondary school, almost two decades ago. Have always been a full-size headphone kinda guy. Recently though, I've been curious about CIEMs. Everyone seems to be talking about them. Being a self-respecting hipster-cum-skeptic, I figured it'd be best to ask for advice here.
There's a Jaben where I live, so I have access to brands like JH and Fitear, among others. But before I even consider dipping my feet in CIEM waters, I'd hope to get some questions answered.
Lets say I were to get myself a reasonably high-end CIEM from one of the more prominent manufacturers, what would I lose, sonically, compared to a summit-fi headphone? What would I gain in return? Can any CIEM give that woofer like bass response/reverb/decay of a Fostex TH900, or the weighty note attacks of an ortho like the Audeze LCDs, or the imaging of a Senn HD800 or Stax SR009, or am I asking the wrong kind of questions - meaning CIEMs offer a totally different kind of presentation? What's up with all the number-of-drivers one-upmanship in CIEM land? How much of a sonic difference can I expect between a "universal" demo CIEM unit and one that's been made to measure? How does the fit work - do we lose the "seal" when we tilt our heads or bite/unbite our jaws?
You don't have to bother answering in detail if you don't want to. Just point me to a non-bullshit resource or web-page and I'll do my own reading. I've attempted it myself, but have difficulty differentiating between marketing speak (yeah yeah, I know you have 69 drivers in it, so fuckin what!), techno-bable (crossover? you want me to get a sex-change?) and actual truth.
Thanks in advance.
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Moody,
I suspect you'll get lots of answers to your different questions, so I'll just offer a little bit to start;
Two things you gain with a CIEM are portability and isolation. No full sized, especially the so called flag ships, will isolate as well as a good fitting CIEM. Portability, well, no brainer there, right? I have commuted with ill sized cans, but I don't they ever compare to CIEMs for isolation and ease of use on the move. Same goes for air travel, where I use them a lot.
In my opinion the difference between proper fitting customs and the "universal" demos is pretty big. I think a lot of the custom magic is that seal and the optimized delivery in the earl canal. Good fitting customs will not loose a seal unless you are doing something extreme. Remember, the origins of customs is with performers, who move, jump, dance, and make all kinds of really strange faces! The fit is really good for most.
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To understand crossovers you have to understad how multidriver IEMs (or speakers for that matter function). In the simplest possible sense, each driver is responsible for a different frequency range. The crossover is the point where frequency of two drivers overlap. At this point the frequency response crosses over from one driver to another. So in a two driver IEM there is one crossover, in a three driver IEM there are two crossovers, etc. this can be complicated in more advanced designs but that is the basic theory. Look up crossovers and you will see some of the pros and cons if these designs
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Sorry I mean no disrespect, but I can not imagine what people exactly call MA900's soundstage. I have owned them around 4-5 months alongside with HD598 and HD650 and compared it to DT880. First of all they have very distorted bass and when some bass notes is hitting you have two bummy speaker on your ear. compared to Senns vocal is very close to you ear and creates impression that someone whispering in your ear.
For the price like 140-150$ and low-moderate listening volume they are great buy. If you need phone to plug in your laptop and chill out, yes sure, but not Hi-fi can.
HD650 is good but not great. bass is still distorted but you will notice it mainly if you crank volume up (and sometimes I like to listen that way) HD598 is kind a cool phone compared to 650, less bass, more distortion, BUT very airy sounding. Hence I am keeping both
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I have a pair of HD580 which are my best cans. I read that you can put HD650 drivers in them so I was thinking of buying a pair of those to see if I like them better. I'm wondering, how close will this come to the HD650 sound? How much is the sound affected by the housing?
Has anyone done measurements, or subjective comparisons to compare the HD580 and HD600 which have the same driver and different frames? Would switching to HD6000 or HD650 grilles improve anything noticeably?
Also, I was wondering if someone could recommend some good, comfortable closed cans that aren't expensive. Preferably with good sensitivity & flattish impedance so they work well without an amp. Right now I'm using Bose Around-Ear 2 for that which don't sound great, but they're very comfortable. I haven't found any closed cans I'm happy with. Either they sound bad, or they're uncomfortable, or they don't have much isolation in which case I may as well use open phones.
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I have a pair of HD580 which are my best cans. I read that you can put HD650 drivers in them so I was thinking of buying a pair of those to see if I like them better. I'm wondering, how close will this come to the HD650 sound? How much is the sound affected by the housing?
Has anyone done measurements, or subjective comparisons to compare the HD580 and HD600 which have the same driver and different frames? Would switching to HD6000 or HD650 grilles improve anything noticeably?
Also, I was wondering if someone could recommend some good, comfortable closed cans that aren't expensive. Preferably with good sensitivity & flattish impedance so they work well without an amp. Right now I'm using Bose Around-Ear 2 for that which don't sound great, but they're very comfortable. I haven't found any closed cans I'm happy with. Either they sound bad, or they're uncomfortable, or they don't have much isolation in which case I may as well use open phones.
From memory HD650 drivers costs 44$ you have to call them, (Sennheiser USA) buy grills also 10$ around if I am not mistaken or buy HD600 grills if cheaper.
Regarding sound: it depends how old is your 580 in another words which driver it has: black or silver. I can not comment how 650 compares 580 in sound quality, never listened 580.
Only grills and pads affect sound, not headband parts.
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Any recommendations for full-size headphones? I wanna move from IEMs, looking into both open/closed phones. I want something with relatively large soundstage and good imagining, decent bass response.
I was thinking again about HD800 (ya, i'm serious), but not sure the way i'm gonna use them will warrant their purchase (everyday use as main headphones, both casual and critical listening).
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How do you find the MA900 compares to the MD3.2? My main problem is pain on the top of my head. The fatigue on my neck and such doesn't come until much later.
Very different headphones. In fact, these would make a good set of complementary hp's. The ma900 is wonderfully open and spacious....fantastically comfy...a touch warm with the treble rolled off a smidge. The MD is somewhat heavy, albeit comfy still, very neutral with impressive linear bass. One open dynamic drive and one closed planar.
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Any recommendations for full-size headphones? I wanna move from IEMs, looking into both open/closed phones. I want something with relatively large soundstage and good imagining, decent bass response.
I was thinking again about HD800 (ya, i'm serious), but not sure the way i'm gonna use them will warrant their purchase (everyday use as main headphones, both casual and critical listening).
well these definitely do image well, but in their stock form I find them a bit too finicky to do well for long-term everyday listening... treble is a bit peaky.
is there any way you could listen to these with the amplifier you are planning to use them with?
there's of course the Anax mod but I recall them slightly limiting the soundstage, though still very impressive. and not sure when the newest version will be out.
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Any recommendations for full-size headphones? I wanna move from IEMs, looking into both open/closed phones. I want something with relatively large soundstage and good imagining, decent bass response.
I was thinking again about HD800 (ya, i'm serious), but not sure the way i'm gonna use them will warrant their purchase (everyday use as main headphones, both casual and critical listening).
Munch is right. We need to know a little more about your set up to make some recommendations. HD-800 is going to want a well set up rig, back to front. That's not say it can't be a great long listen headphone if you are able to stay near that well set up rig. Are you going to set up a system around the headphone, or buy stuff to go with it?
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well these definitely do image well, but in their stock form I find them a bit too finicky to do well for long-term everyday listening... treble is a bit peaky.
is there any way you could listen to these with the amplifier you are planning to use them with?
there's of course the Anax mod but I recall them slightly limiting the soundstage, though still very impressive. and not sure when the newest version will be out.
Nope, not even slightest possibility of that. There's only one local retailer that carries it and i'm pretty sure they don't have demos. Other than that and online stores or importing it there are no ways to get my hands on it.
Munch is right. We need to know a little more about your set up to make some recommendations. HD-800 is going to want a well set up rig, back to front. That's not say it can't be a great long listen headphone if you are able to stay near that well set up rig. Are you going to set up a system around the headphone, or buy stuff to go with it?
At the moment the whole set up is just plans - i don't have anything desktop related, only portable stuff (IEMs, amp/DAC). I'd buy the stuff to go with it, but not sure how much of investment it's gonna be. If it's gonna be about 1-1.5k on top of headphones, i'm not sure i can supply that for the rig.
I'm open to your suggestions guys. Maybe i should settle on some other open/closed/portable headphones, until i can fund the full desktop rig. I just wanna move from IEMs, everything i tried in this realm so far left me unsatisfied i guess. I liked some stuff, but always fell i wanted something "better" or different? Idk.
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for desktop rig that images/soundstages well, go for something open.
which ones that would be... hard to say! I find HD800 and STAX to be the kings of that.
but STAX are uhh... there are so many models and none of the rectangular ones really do bass all that well IME... and amping costs a fortune generally.
I think I'll just let someone else take over from here! HD800 is a great start but it will probably cost you a ton of munneh on top of the headphones.
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Well the anax 2.0 mod makes the hd800s bearable for long term listening even with the gungnir imo. I'd say start with the Vali and that will leave you lots of money for picking out a dac. The $500 emotiva dc-1 is a good deal, and the uber bifrost w/ usb gen 2 is $510. The dc-1 comes fairly close to the gungnir's performance based on my experiences and is a little more polite sounding.
If you buy a used pair of hd800s, that will leave you with even more money for dacs as well. A good sounding hd800 doesn't need to cost more than the headphone itself.
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I've actually put together my own line-up for use with HD600 & HD800 to see for myself how much difference between amps and what I could live with if I downsize. Current non-portable amps I own: Magni, Vali, Bottlehead Crack, EC Zana Deux, EC BA.
For Value Sennheiser Rigs I like:
Gamma2/ODAC > Vali > used HD800 (Anax Mod) = ~$1250
Gamma2/ODAC > Crack > Used HD6X0 = ~$800
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I'd recommend ODAC over Gamma2 for HD800 use. The Gamma2 is tonally more pleasing, but the ODAC is more resolving in my experience.
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^Cool. Thanks for adding, haven't heard the Gamma2 in a while...
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I'm open to your suggestions guys. Maybe i should settle on some other open/closed/portable headphones, until i can fund the full desktop rig. I just wanna move from IEMs, everything i tried in this realm so far left me unsatisfied i guess. I liked some stuff, but always fell i wanted something "better" or different? Idk.
It's seems like you're still in research mode and not quite ready for that final recommendation. That's OK. Be patient and keep doing your research. Use all the resources like Innerfideility, Head-Fi, etc... to start narrowing down to a few headphones you think might suit you.
During that process checking in here with specific questions. You might just end up back at the HD-800, but you also may find something else that suits you better.
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You can take an AKG K240, connect it to a decent Amp/Dac set-up and used it as a temporary rig.
If AKG is not what you want look into used yet mint open Beyerdynamics. For a lower budget a lot of value for money is in the professional line of semi-open and open headphones of certain headphone manufacturers.
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Hello guys, thought I would ask for some advice here. I have the Shure SE530s and although they were very good for its time, I suspect there are better things out there now. Not really keen to go the Custom IEM route, so what do you suggest for the next step up?
Have been considering the Sony XBA-H3 as something modern, cheaper, but with the progress of technology, hopefully better? Otherwise what would be recommended. I am after something that would genuinely be an upgrade rather than a sidegrade.
Thanks!
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not sure if the right place but I'm looking for a *really* cheap USB soundcard that will be able to amplify my mic's volume, as the onboard one is far too low even with microphone boost set to max, and maxed out volume.
also of course would be neat if it made the mic sound better too but I don't really know how that works.
really cheap is the key thing here, bought a new microphone and sucks I can't even use it. :p
plus it's reaaaaally noisy if I turn up mic boost anyway. so would be neat to just have better quality as well.
thanks
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http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EW5YQS/ (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EW5YQS/)
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oh. my microphone is a very cheap 3.5mm mono one (25 bucks or something)
sorry, should have specified that... I am *guessing* that any USB soundcard will do though, after reading a little more about it.
might pull the trigger on a really cheap one just to try it out.
thanks!
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A Turtle Beach Amigo should run you about $20.
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Hi Pirates, I've been enjoying lurking here for a while, this seems like a good place to ask for advice...
Can anyone give me a suggestion for the minimum viable amplifier for the HD800? I've got a pair on the way and I plan to eventually get one of the frequently recommended tube amps like a ZD or a Stratos, but that's going to take me a while to organise (particularly as I'm in Australia so there is the hassle of shipping, customs etc). In the meantime I want something cheaper to listen to that won't make me hate the HD800. Anything under about $750 that has a reasonable resale value would work for me.
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Hi Pirates, I've been enjoying lurking here for a while, this seems like a good place to ask for advice...
Can anyone give me a suggestion for the minimum viable amplifier for the HD800? I've got a pair on the way and I plan to eventually get one of the frequently recommended tube amps like a ZD or a Stratos, but that's going to take me a while to organise (particularly as I'm in Australia so there is the hassle of shipping, customs etc). In the meantime I want something cheaper to listen to that won't make me hate the HD800. Anything under about $750 that has a reasonable resale value would work for me.
Schiit Vali
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We need to make that a "sticky" or something internet slick like that... HD-800 == Vali for the win, great value combo, throw a decent source at it if you can!
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Thanks for the replies... Vali it is. I should have thought of that based on the gazillion posts about it. I don't know why I thought I'd need something bigger to power the HD800s.
You should make that a sticky... or even put it on the Pirate's Booty list...
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Are there any portable full-size closed headphones with good isolation? I mean good enough to take it to the flight. If it's also comfortable for long hours listening and have a standard 3.5mm detachable cable, that's would be great.
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Which is more important, other passengers not hearing your music or you not hearing the noise from the plane?
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CIEMs or bust for flights. Formerly frequent traveler (7 destinations a month for work previously) and I've run through all the options.
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Which is more important, other passengers not hearing your music or you not hearing the noise from the plane?
I dunno. Aren't the sound leakage and isolation are corresponding or better say go hand in hand? I guess the latter is more important, as long i don't bother others too much.
CIEMs or bust for flights. Formerly frequent traveler (7 destinations a month for work previously) and I've run through all the options.
Well i thought that (or NC phones) would be the case. Just didn't really want to go that route.
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Hey all, I'm a lurker more than anything and have been searching but I think I need more guidance.
I've had a Fiio E7 for about three years now and I think it's going to give up soon. I used it as a DAC + amp from my laptop, and I'm looking for a device that basically an upgrade for it. I'd like to keep the cost as low as possible but I can spare up to $200. Currently I am looking at the Hifimediy Tiny Sabre DAC http://hifimediy.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=107 (http://hifimediy.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=107)+ an O2 (I have a friend with the parts that'll cost me ~$60) but the O2 isn't usb powered which would create an additional hassle. Alternatively, I am also checking out the Audioquest Dragonfly 1.2 is $150 at amazon and the JDS Labs c5d (more than $200 but I am willing to stretch my budget if it's much better than any alternatives). I currently use a dt1350, ath-im02 and I have a tascam th02 arriving eventually for modding purposes.
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For sound isolation I doubt you will get better than IEMs or CIEMs. I use IEMs everyday during my commute on the subway and they do an excellent job of blocking out the surrounding sound. I also use them when I am at work to listen to music and block out the surrounding noise when I really need to concentrate. If you can deal with the insertion I would recommend going the IEM/CIEM route vs a closed headphone. Additionally there are way more good IEMs than closed headphones. The Hifiman re400 are very good for the price if you don't mind a slightly warmer than neutral sound. They are extremely comfortable, however they don't isolate sound quite as well as my other IEMs.
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I travel extensively and if you don't have an issue with CIEM's in your ears I can't see picking anything else. I often pack proper headphone to use at the hotel or in a remote office, but when it comes to being on the move, a plane, a train, whatever, it's hard to beat CIEMs for SQ, isolation, convenience, and comfort. I've tried plenty to on ear, over ears, etc... besides never having isolation that is even close, they're just a pain in the a$$ as far as I'm concerned to deal with as far as size etc...
I'm with ZD, CIEM's or bust. Followed closely by some good IEMs if you don't have customs, but if you're traveling a lot it's worth it to get customs.
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Honestly, I think customs as a form factor are somewhat overrated in the audiophile community. In my experiences universals can be just as good both in terms of sound quality and isolation, it just depends on the implementation and your own ears! For instance, my ear canals are very narrow and don't bend much. Having tried five different brands over the years, I can say that customs are actually not a great option for me unless they're shallow fit like FitEar. Otherwise they commonly break seal and don't stay in all the way. However some behave better than others: aside from FitEar, the Jerry Harvey ones tend to be among the best for me.
My point is more or less that there's no one-size-fits-all solution, be it a universal or a custom. The idea that it's tailored to your ears would lead you believe it's more of a sure bet in terms of fit and comfort, but you may find, like me, that your ears just don't cooperate as well as others' or that the size of some of these hulking monsters with five bores and multiple crossovers are simply too big. Also the process can become a headache if you need multiple refits. Also consider that with universals you can return or resell them more easily if you find they're not for you.
I'm not trying to scare you away from customs or anything! For some folks they work extremely well, and they're definitely well suited to certain applications (like stage use --- their original purpose). However I tend to be of the mind that they're a little too freely recommended and hyped on that other forum, and as a result some are bitterly disappointed when their expectations aren't met or they end up going through a big ordeal involving multiple returns and taxes.
Also these days I'm firmly of the belief that universals are starting to catch up with customs. The custom fit in and of itself can offer good isolation (for some!) and---in theory---better bottom-end performance. However the primary benefit of customs to my mind was their amorphous body that allowed more drivers and crossovers to be crammed in there. It also allowed for smaller companies to get in on the action without having to invest in design work or OEM manufacturing for complex earpieces. These days however manufacturers have realized that consumers are willing to pay just as much for universal fit versions of such custom-type shells, so this has opened up a whole new realm of pseudo-universal designs. In know some pirates might disagree with me, but in my own experience universals like the FitEar TO GO! 334, F111, Tralucent 1Plus2, and even more "traditional" builds like the Shure SE846 and Final FI-BA-SS can pretty much compete with most CIEMs out there with a few exceptions. For instance stuff by Spiral Ears is pretty advanced, but it won't even fit a lot of peoples' ears due to how many crossover points and bores it has!
Now if they'd just sell the universal UERM commercially, I'd be a happy MuppetFace.
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Hey all, I'm a lurker more than anything and have been searching but I think I need more guidance.
I've had a Fiio E7 for about three years now and I think it's going to give up soon. I used it as a DAC + amp from my laptop, and I'm looking for a device that basically an upgrade for it. I'd like to keep the cost as low as possible but I can spare up to $200. Currently I am looking at the Hifimediy Tiny Sabre DAC http://hifimediy.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=107 (http://hifimediy.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=107)+ an O2 (I have a friend with the parts that'll cost me ~$60) but the O2 isn't usb powered which would create an additional hassle. Alternatively, I am also checking out the Audioquest Dragonfly 1.2 is $150 at amazon and the JDS Labs c5d (more than $200 but I am willing to stretch my budget if it's much better than any alternatives). I currently use a dt1350, ath-im02 and I have a tascam th02 arriving eventually for modding purposes.
Herus and DT 1350 are a great combo, especially if you can apply a bit of EQ to bring the 1350 bass under control. I find that -3dB per octave starting at 120Hz does it for me.
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I'll join in on the unanimous advice: if you want isolation you use earplugs, so why not use earplugs which make music? You'll get 10db extra isolation with a CIEM or deep insertion IEM than with anything else. Otherwise, the Bose ANC options are good for planes, but are very meh otherwise.
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Thanks everyone, i guess i'll think it through again.
I'm was not set on CIEMs, because my ear canals are like MF's - very narrow and short. And with no audiologist around, potential refits, etc. i'm just not sure about it. I can't insert most tri-flange tips, because (besides long term comfort issues) they only go half way and protrude from my ears. Never tried Comply/Shure foam tips, maybe i should look into that.
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I don't find foam tips isolate as well as silicone. I think you can get a better seal with silicone. Foam tips can be more comfortable but I find they quickly get dirty. I don't have very waxy ears but they pick up ear wax like crazy and become kind of crispy. I try to clean them but it is a real pain and they are never the same as the first couple weeks. It is fine as long as you change them out every couple of months.
I have found my favorite are the clear silicone ones that come with the re400. They are soft but with enough sturdiness to make them easy to insert. Some silicone's like the ie800 are super soft and flexible which is a bugger when you try to insert them because they just collapse.
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Thanks everyone, i guess i'll think it through again.
I'm was not set on CIEMs, because my ear canals are like MF's - very narrow and short. And with no audiologist around, potential refits, etc. i'm just not sure about it. I can't insert most tri-flange tips, because (besides long term comfort issues) they only go half way and protrude from my ears. Never tried Comply/Shure foam tips, maybe i should look into that.
As someone who works for an airline and travels a ton, I'd take the Bose QC15 on the airplane over CIEMs. They're less of a hassle to take on/put off and more comfortable (to me at least) for long distance flights. I also find that even if my CIEMs isolate very well, if I'm near the back I'll still hear the faint rumble/growl of the engine which causes a tendency to turn up the volume louder than my normal settings. Not that it's unnoticable with the QC15, but it's more tolerable without having to pump up the sound to loud.
I haven't had a chance to try the new Bose NC earphones yet, but I hear they've also very good and have been wanting to give a pair a shot. Maybe next time if I get to the airport early and stop by one of the stores.
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Mind if I jump in on the IEM/CIEM discussion a bit? I've been considering CIEMs for a while, just haven't gotten round to trying out the demos yet. I'm finding myself traveling more as of late.
My question;
Those of you who own both summit-fi headphones and top-end IEM/CIEMs; If you had to give up everything in your collection and just keep one pair (regardless of whether it'd be for home or mobile listening), would you be happy with a high-end IEM/CIEM. I've been seriously thinking of downsizing my collection to just one rig, and at the same time have heard great things from friends (real life ones) about modern-day CIEMs. One acquaintance is pointing me towards JH Audio, while another is badgering me to demo the FitEar MH334 and 335DW models. After some serious daydreaming, I figured something like a CIEM + high-end DAP (AK120 or 240) or maybe a CIEM + portable DAC/Amp (the new Chord thingamajig, for example) setup that could bluetooth sync with my phone/laptop would be mighty attractive, provided the SQ was there.
I know the obvious advantages of CIEMs - isolation, comfort, minimal heat build-up, etc. But it's the SQ bit I'm unsure about, and have no experience with. Obviously there won't be anything in-ear capable of imaging like a HD800 or 009, but is there anything out there that could maybe get close to a LCD-2 (minus the shoddy Audeze reliability and discomfort), for instance? Soundstage doesn't have to be the biggest in the world, but I would like some out-of-headness.
Possible? Any particular models I should demo?
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Well, I still like my JH13 non-FPs more than most in-production TOTL flagships these days.
In terms of pure sonic merit I preferred them to the LCD2.2s I had a couple of weeks ago. In recent fleeting comparisons I considered the JH13s to be surprisingly similar to well-driven SR-007s in tonal balance and quality.
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@Moodyz
I actually tried downsizing to just a CIEM + high end DAP in the past. Had a big gear purge and sold off most everything. Made it through half a year maybe before I picked up another pair of TOTL headphones. It's not that high-end CIEMs can't present a realistic soundstage, but it's a somewhat different experience than what headphones provide, just like headphones don't have the same presence as speakers do regardless of cost. I like CIEMs for their convenience traveling, but they're rarely my go-to at home.
Then again, there are people out there that love IEMs and find headphones to sound poor in comparison. I think it's just a matter of trying a pair out for yourself and finding which side of the coin you're on.
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One thing I appreciate about CIEMs is that the treble is relatively well-behaved compared to the vast majority of dynamic (if not all electrodynamic) transducers. I think balanced armatures are a really cool technology; once CIEM vendors started offering true supra-16KHz extension they've been more than competitive in terms of sonic merits in my opinion.
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I read somewhere online (A taiwan audio blog) saying there's a difference on SQ between WAV and other compressed lossless (FLAC etc). Quoted reason: Because compression messed up the coding somewhere, somehow, in the desert, the hay rolling (okay, that's added MSG, but you get the descriptions :)p13)
So, is FLAC really messing up a source due to its coding? :)p6n walk the plank
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So, is FLAC really messing up a source due to its coding?
Some will claim so because they hear it, some will claim it can't and probably know more about coding techniques but do not take the possibility of wrongly written code, corrupted programs etc. into account.
It is really easy to hear something when one believes/is sure coding sucks, it also is really easy to say something works flawlessly based on theory of operation.
From a technical point of view it doesn't make a difference UNLESS the coding (or decoding) algorithm do not match or are flawed.
Lets even put the 'theories' about on the fly decoding processor load jitter mumbo jumbo talk aside for a moment or the theory 'something' travels along in the bits.
Maybe one or 2 encoders/decoders are flawed or corrupted and do something wrong.
Impossible to tell unless one studies the actual generated/reconstituted files on that specific computer.
Something MAY be wrong (doesn't have to be) on the equipment the claimer has and may not be so on that of others even when they use the same program.
For instance (different subject though) and have a look at this website: http://src.infinitewave.ca/ (http://src.infinitewave.ca/) and see for yourself how many up/down-sampling algorithms are flawed (select 'sweep' for test result) for instance.
All written by software guys/audio guys and yet a lot of them completely F it up... even highly regarded ones.
The good ones have black backgrounds, as soon as one sees red or yellow lines on the left side you can be sure this is audible.
Makes you think twice about upsampling DAC's as well doesn't it ?
Who wrote the code and did they do a good job ?
The post and reply/discussion don't really belong in this thread though. ::)
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Thanks. The conclusion I get is: Depends then.
Well, I thought the thread title says All Purpose Advice Thread... Hmmm. My mistakes.
Anyway, I should be alert on upsampling now.
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Hello fellow Pirates,
So for a while now I have been using an optical cable to connect my source to the Bifrost Uber DAC. I have 2 different optical cables, Both are mini Toslink to regular Toslink (my Titanium HD uses a mini toslink)
As shown below:
(http://www.showmecables.com/images/catalog/product/Toslink-Optical-To-Mini-Plug-Digital-Cable-1.jpg)
The mini Toslink works perfectly connecting to the Titanium HD, However both of the optical cables I have do not seem to fit securely in the back of the Bifrost (the regular Toslink connection). It seems like the slightest touch of the cable and it comes out - it fits very loosely in the Optical port on the Bifrost (both optical cables). Do I just have cheap optical cables, or is that just the nature of optical cables? Does anyone have a workaround for this or anyone else have this issue?
Thank you for any input and suggestions, I would really appreciate it.
Thanks!
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Usually it's just a little plastic bulge that clicks and holds them in place. Probably they're worn out on one side or the other.
Maybe try dabbling a bit of clear nail polish around the side of the toslink connector to thicken it a tad.
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Thank you for the suggestion. They are both new cables and I just got the Bifrost perhaps a month or two ago. I haven't used the optical cables for anything else. I think I know what you're speaking of though, I have seen pics online where some Toslink cables have like a little metal-like spring hinge that locks it into place, unfortunately neither of my cables have them. Like I said, these cables are a little on the cheap side. The one came with my Titanium HD (since it is a special type Toslink cable (mini Toslink to regular Toslink) but the other one I bought from newegg but it was only about $10. I guess I could try the nail polish, the only thing the worries me about that a little is if after some time if the polish starts to flak off or something if it will damage my DAC - perhaps I am being paranoid.
I sincerely appreciate your suggestion and if anyone else has anty suggestions, spares they don't need, or a link to some good optical cables (reasonable priced but still pretty good) please let me know.
Thanks and thanks again Armaegis.
EDIT:
I realize after doing some research the issue. It isn't the optical cables, it's a little door the covers the optical port that is the problem. For some reason it's missing and that is why the optical cables will not click into place and are loose. I have no idea why there is no optical door there. When I got the Bifrost Uber, there was a black plug covering the optical port which needed to be removed to access the optical port itself to put in an optical cable, but once I removed that there is no optical port little black door to secure the optical cable in place.
Here are some pics to show you what I mean (granted I do not have the USB port on my Uberfrost, but the pictures below show the optical port that I am talking about:
Bifrost Uber with Optical Plug when first bought:
(http://www.digitalaudioreview.net/wp-content/uploads/images/stories/schiitbifrost/1/schiitbifrost_4.jpg)
Bifrost Uber after removal of optical plug cover when I first bought it and what it looks like now:
(http://www.audiostream.com/images/111612bifrost2.jpg)
Apparently it is supposed to have some sort of little plastic door covering the port so when you insert an optical cable, the little plastic door swings in, locking the optical cable into place like the pic below:
(http://d2heru13qkbk4q.cloudfront.net/media/946328/scaled/Bifrost_c.JPG)
I don't have this little door. I am not sure if it was included when I bought it or if somehow I damaged it when I removed the plug that was covering the optical port when I first bought it. Is there a way to fix it if I can find that little black door? I have a habit of taking care of my stuff really well and I am sure I could find it. Is there like a hinge or something inside on the optical port that I could snap it back into place?
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I'd recommend emailing Schiit.
Any pirates have recommendations for the ultimate IEM amp? Is there a mini BA out there for the UERM?
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My Bifrost (one of the first 50 they made) did not have a door on it's optical port, just the plastic plug. My replacement Bifrost some time later (for unrelated issue, source selector didn't change sources) also did not have a door. Every device I've ever owned with optical ports has never had a door, just the plastic plug. I usually end up tossing them out if I'm using optical and using it just fine without any doors.
I don't think it's a door problem. I bought a Monoprice optical cable, the silver one with silver jacket, and have used that as my primary digital connection on my DACMagic, then Bifrost, then Gungnir, and now that I'm on the X-Sabre I'm using USB. I've used this cable on a couple other CD players with no problems. I'd suggest you get one of those.
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10229&cs_id=1022904&p_id=2764&seq=1&format=2
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I'd recommend emailing Schiit.
Any pirates have recommendations for the ultimate IEM amp? Is there a mini BA out there for the UERM?
Closest thing out there right now is the LISA. Question is whether you want to deal with it's bulk. I'm waiting on something that might be better but won't know until it's a released product.
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Closest thing out there right now is the LISA. Question is whether you want to deal with it's bulk. I'm waiting on something that might be better but won't know until it's a released product.
Caylx M?
I actually am fine with a full desktop amp. I might get a balanced cable for the UERM and use them with a Mjolnir or something.
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Caylx M?
I actually am fine with a full desktop amp. I might get a balanced cable for the UERM and use them with a Mjolnir or something.
What about the Centrace M8? It comes in a "RSA" config for mini-balanced plugs.
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I've been considering moving to a UERM-only setup for the past month or so. I've just been enjoying the sound from my UERMs more than the hd800s lately.
Is this the LISA we're talking about? How much of an improvement is it really over the uha-6s? I think an amp-only device from Leckerton may be worth waiting for.
http://triadaudio.net/the-l3-portable-headphone-amplifier/
Edit: while we're here, anax have you had the chance to do a comparison between the ada4627-1A and the 1B?
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Caylx M?
I actually am fine with a full desktop amp. I might get a balanced cable for the UERM and use them with a Mjolnir or something.
What about the Centrace M8? It comes in a "RSA" config for mini-balanced plugs.
To put it mildly, CEntrance makes mediocre amps. There DACs are pretty decent, but amp sections are pretty lacking in low level resolution, inner dynamics, sustained power delivery (HD800). I had the DACPort for over a year and tried to run my HD800 off of it while my Super7 was getting built. Horrible, couldn't listen to it with the HD800 for more than 30 seconds. I think I listened a total of 5 minutes over 4 sessions over a 4 month period before my amp was completed. It was that bad. The M8 and desktop DAC/amp they have sound basically similar (actually the last M8 I heard sounded worse than both of those tbh). Mike's philosophy of amp building is to just add more power and volume and keep distortion low. Pretty much basic novice amp building philosophy and you can hear it. My UHA6S and the O2 both sound miles better with the HD800 than the DACPort or M8 and all of those measure flat/neutral. Claims that CEntrance stuff is wire w/ gain is typical overanalytical colored BS sound.
I do recommend the DACPort LX as a source though as long as you get a good deal on it. I'd avoid anything of theirs that has a pot and a bunch of switches.
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Edit: while we're here, anax have you had the chance to do a comparison between the ada4627-1A and the 1B?
I'd like to piggyback on gunner's question and ask if you know how the GSM interference compares on the 1B or 1A vs the 8610. I use mine quite a bit with USB-OTG on my Note II, but if there are not inference problems then I'll probably roll it to the 4627-1B.
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I've been considering moving to a UERM-only setup for the past month or so. I've just been enjoying the sound from my UERMs more than the hd800s lately.
Is this the LISA we're talking about? How much of an improvement is it really over the uha-6s? I think an amp-only device from Leckerton may be worth waiting for.
http://triadaudio.net/the-l3-portable-headphone-amplifier/
Edit: while we're here, anax have you had the chance to do a comparison between the ada4627-1A and the 1B?
Yes, surprisingly the B actually sounded better than the A. I think CeeTee came to this conclusion independently as well.
I heard that LISA L3 two years ago versus my mk1 w/ OPA209s, it may have also been using a separate power supply. At the time, the difference was clear. The mk2 w/ 209s was a slight improvement over the mk1 w/ 209s and the 4627 another improvement still and then going to the 'B' version yet again so I have no idea how the comparison would shake out. I also have not heard their new blue edition of Li-ion version which have 'improved circuits'.
All I can say is the current L3 lineup has a better opportunity to sound better if implemented correctly based on past experiences. Also that there may be some new devices to watch out for at similar or better pricepoints that can compete.
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Edit: while we're here, anax have you had the chance to do a comparison between the ada4627-1A and the 1B?
I haven't run into that issue much since dumping the 209 but I would get feedback from CeeTee and others as well as asking Nick how the 4627 handles GSM versus the 8610. Be wary in deciphering his 8610 speak as he leans a bit objectivist when it comes to opamps and their sound signatures despite offering alternatives. Just focus on his GSM remarks, the 8610 is really inferior sonically to both the 209 and 4627 unfortunately.
I'd like to piggyback on gunner's question and ask if you know how the GSM interference compares on the 1B or 1A vs the 8610. I use mine quite a bit with USB-OTG on my Note II, but if there are not inference problems then I'll probably roll it to the 4627-1B.
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I haven't run into that issue much since dumping the 209 but I would get feedback from CeeTee and others as well as asking Nick how the 4627 handles GSM versus the 8610. Be wary in deciphering his 8610 speak as he leans a bit objectivist when it comes to opamps and their sound signatures despite offering alternatives. Just focus on his GSM remarks, the 8610 is really inferior sonically to both the 209 and 4627 unfortunately.
Thanks Anax! I'll take the question over to the Portable Amps thread and try to solicit some more feedback later today. I'll also ship Nick a message.
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Tyll seems to think highly of the Centrance M8 though.
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Tyll seems to think highly of the Centrance M8 though.
And the Reveel. I'm sure Tyll can chime in if he feels the need to on the M8, no need to bait me. There's a lot of reasons to like something based on how it's used versus just sonic fidelity.
It has a feature set that includes hardware EQ, no doubt needed because it's just soooo wire w/ gain sounding. No resolution, no ballz, no dynamics, but I guess it gets loud on a dB meter playing a tone.
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*shrug* just hearing things differently I suppose. I have a Dacmini and used to have a dacport and liked both of them. I've heard a UHA6S and felt kind of meh about it (compared vs one of those iFi amps at the time which I liked more).
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*shrug* just hearing things differently I suppose. I have a Dacmini and used to have a dacport and liked both of them. I've heard a UHA6S and felt kind of meh about it (compared vs one of those iFi amps at the time which I liked more).
You listened to the DAC+amp or just the amp from another DAC and which opamps? Kind of need to be specific when you say something is meh when a device has 2, 3 or 4 functional components that each might sound different.
As a DAC+amp via USB I could see the case for the DACPort as long as you don't use something fickle like the HD800. Using optical or coax w/ the UHA6S should bring the two closer if not favor the UHA6S. As an amp alone, no chance, the DACPort and M8 just get crushed (Unless you settle for an 8610).
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Fair enough. Funny enough, I think it may have been the most "unoptimal" situation you described: from usb with 8610 opamps.
I seem to recall a while ago that someone (possibly me) was asking about Leckerton and Centrance and you said Leckerton makes good amps but so-so dacs, and Centrance was the opposite.
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Fair enough. Funny enough, I think it may have been the most "unoptimal" situation you described: from usb with 8610 opamps.
I seem to recall a while ago that someone (possibly me) was asking about Leckerton and Centrance and you said Leckerton makes good amps but so-so dacs, and Centrance was the opposite.
Yeah I only suspected because I've had both the mk1 and mk2 and pretty much the thing through every variable imaginable over 3 years and also owned the DACPort and DACPort LX for 1.5 years. In relative context your statement is absolutely true. In my experience things are different in a more absolute sense.
That's correct, that is my impression to date. Both Nick and Michael write code for various DAC manufacturers among other things. To be fair to Nick, the UHA6 DAC was compromised by choice to allow better flexibility like USB on the Go and various other inputs. Even the M8 can't do USB on the Go nor the Chord Hugo. Choices...
In an ideal world I'd run DACPort LX>UHA6Smk2 w/ 4627BRZ. No reason they both can't get along.
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Ahoy pirates, be seeking yer sage advice:
Looking for a DAC, deciding between Bifrost Uber, Parasound ZDAC, and Arcam irDAC. They're all at comparable price ranges where I live, but I can't A/B them because no one store has all 3 (or even 2). Which of these is the biggest step up from...well, DAC-less (first external DAC) play from an iPod Classic, CDP, and a Xonar DX sound card?
On a related note: if I connected a game console to a DAC via TOSlink, would I have to change console sound settings to stereo?
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Any recommendations for some comfortable headphones? The requirements are:
1) Detachable cable with standard 3.5 mm input;
2) Won't look like a fucking satellite on my head.
Unfortunately, Fidelio L2 didn't work for me as all-around home/portable solution. Headband caused long term discomfort no matter how i adjusted it. And while i like their looks it does protrude a little too much i think. There are gaps between my head and headband, i wonder if that's the cause of both comfort and appearance issues.
I was thinking about new XS headphones by V-MODA, which seems to address some of my problems with L2. The only thing that worried me is that they're on-ears. Anyone with on-ear experience can chime in on how would they fare long term for indoors use?
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Eric_C: I'd go with the Bifrost Über out of those, it's niiiice. should be even better with that USB-gen2 upgrade as well.
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Bifrost Uber + USB would be a super solid choice, based on my experience with the Gungnir (very good if you like a smooth sound). I'm also currently sampling the Mini-I w/ dual AD1955s, and it's a solid unit at around $380 (has a no-frills headphone amp built in too).
If the DAC is a 2-channel DAC, you'll want to give it a 2-channel input.
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Any recommendations for some comfortable headphones?
The V-Moda M-100 with XL pads are still the most comfortable portable headphones I've ever used. Low profile, great case, decent build quality. Bass heavy with a mid recess though and slightly artificial highs - so the sound quality might not be tolerable. If you can find them aftermarket for around $200 bucks I think they're a good portable buy for everything you get.
I'm a huge fan of on-ear headphones for on-the-go use because my glasses don't interfere with their seal. However, in my experience, I've never stuck with on-ear headphones for at home use. The same thing that makes them isolate and stay put on the go, their clamping force, makes them less viable for long term comfort. I currently have two Amperiors, a M-80, a PX100, and a pair of KSC-75's mounted to a Portapro headband. (I had a DT1350 around recently as well.) They all get sidelined when I get home for the comfort of my larger circumaurals.
I've heard that the V-Moda XS has pretty low clamping force though. They may be more comfortable for long term use than the other ones I've experienced. I don't have personal experience yet as mine won't arrive until the end of this week or beginning of next week. For your combination of fashion needs/profile size and removable cable 3.5 cable, I think it may be your best option. If you can relax the requirement to a 2.5mm plug, Tyll just measured the ATH M-50x redux the other day and it looks like they made some nice sonic improvements. The M50's really aren't as large as they look, and they might be a good option. The Shure 840 series also uses a 2.5mm removable cable and as a result there are ample replacement cables around.
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Gah!! I just emailed Emotiva about ordering the DC-1 (thanks to Gunner's review comparing it to the Gungnir).
Did I just make a foolish choice?
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Sounds good to me. I was just about to recommend you look at the Emotiva. Pretty good value right now at $499.
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Any recommendations for some comfortable headphones? The requirements are:
1) Detachable cable with standard 3.5 mm input;
2) Won't look like a fucking satellite on my head.
Unfortunately, Fidelio L2 didn't work for me as all-around home/portable solution. Headband caused long term discomfort no matter how i adjusted it. And while i like their looks it does protrude a little too much i think. There are gaps between my head and headband, i wonder if that's the cause of both comfort and appearance issues.
I was thinking about new XS headphones by V-MODA, which seems to address some of my problems with L2. The only thing that worried me is that they're on-ears. Anyone with on-ear experience can chime in on how would they fare long term for indoors use?
Does the it need to be 3.5mm where the cable connects to the headphone body? I assume you're only talking about a 3.5mm native connector at the far end of the cable so that you don't need a crazy 6.3mm to 3.5mm adaptor like you would with a bunch of Grados or Sennheisers, right?!
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Gah!! I just emailed Emotiva about ordering the DC-1 (thanks to Gunner's review comparing it to the Gungnir).
Did I just make a foolish choice?
I think it's a fine choice. You get a nice feature set and a good sounding dac for just $500. If you don't like it, then you can just return it for the cost of shipping.
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I think it's a fine choice. You get a nice feature set and a good sounding dac for just $500. If you don't like it, then you can just return it for the cost of shipping.
International shipping is what worries me a bit. There's no local distributor for Emotiva, but there is for Schiit. Decisions, decisions.
Edit: dang it, I just calculated shipping (in case of any servicing needs), and it's around 60 USD each way. I'm just going to chicken out and get a Bifrost local.
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I think it's a fine choice. You get a nice feature set and a good sounding dac for just $500. If you don't like it, then you can just return it for the cost of shipping.
International shipping is what worries me a bit. There's no local distributor for Emotiva, but there is for Schiit. Decisions, decisions.
Edit: dang it, I just calculated shipping (in case of any servicing needs), and it's around 60 USD each way. I'm just going to chicken out and get a Bifrost local.
That's a fine choice too. Just make sure it has the uber upgrade and the gen 2 usb and you'll be set.
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Oh, definitely! All the best w your UERM setup btw.
Thanks all for your advice. Can't wait to get my new toy!
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Thanks! I pulled the trigger on the Enigmas already so it all comes down on waiting for them and the dx90.
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Any recommendations for some comfortable headphones?
The V-Moda M-100 with XL pads are still the most comfortable portable headphones I've ever used. Low profile, great case, decent build quality. Bass heavy with a mid recess though and slightly artificial highs - so the sound quality might not be tolerable. If you can find them aftermarket for around $200 bucks I think they're a good portable buy for everything you get.
I'm a huge fan of on-ear headphones for on-the-go use because my glasses don't interfere with their seal. However, in my experience, I've never stuck with on-ear headphones for at home use. The same thing that makes them isolate and stay put on the go, their clamping force, makes them less viable for long term comfort. I currently have two Amperiors, a M-80, a PX100, and a pair of KSC-75's mounted to a Portapro headband. (I had a DT1350 around recently as well.) They all get sidelined when I get home for the comfort of my larger circumaurals.
I've heard that the V-Moda XS has pretty low clamping force though. They may be more comfortable for long term use than the other ones I've experienced. I don't have personal experience yet as mine won't arrive until the end of this week or beginning of next week. For your combination of fashion needs/profile size and removable cable 3.5 cable, I think it may be your best option. If you can relax the requirement to a 2.5mm plug, Tyll just measured the ATH M-50x redux the other day and it looks like they made some nice sonic improvements. The M50's really aren't as large as they look, and they might be a good option. The Shure 840 series also uses a 2.5mm removable cable and as a result there are ample replacement cables around.
I've owned M-100 briefly back when there were no XL pads around. The normal pads were lacking in comfort and i also had a problem with it's SQ for exact reasons you stated. That's also one of the reasons i'm actually looking into XS now since it should be more balanced then M-100. Not sure if it'll be worth revisiting M-100 with XL pads?
Thanks for sharing your experience with on-ear, Valentine. That's what i thought, i just never owned a headphone of that type myself. I guess i'm gonna wait for your impressions on XL when it arrives, to see if it's an exception in terms of comfort. If not i might look into M50x or something else.
Any recommendations for some comfortable headphones? The requirements are:
1) Detachable cable with standard 3.5 mm input;
2) Won't look like a fucking satellite on my head.
Unfortunately, Fidelio L2 didn't work for me as all-around home/portable solution. Headband caused long term discomfort no matter how i adjusted it. And while i like their looks it does protrude a little too much i think. There are gaps between my head and headband, i wonder if that's the cause of both comfort and appearance issues.
I was thinking about new XS headphones by V-MODA, which seems to address some of my problems with L2. The only thing that worried me is that they're on-ears. Anyone with on-ear experience can chime in on how would they fare long term for indoors use?
Does the it need to be 3.5mm where the cable connects to the headphone body? I assume you're only talking about a 3.5mm native connector at the far end of the cable so that you don't need a crazy 6.3mm to 3.5mm adaptor like you would with a bunch of Grados or Sennheisers, right?!
Nope, the former. I just want to be able to use some cables i already have at hand, like V-MODA BoomPro, which basically transform any headphone into headset. I guess i could use 3.5 to 2.5 mm adapter and pair it with something like M50x. In the end if i won't find anything else i might go that route.
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V-Moda protip: if you know someone working at one of the companies listed here (http://vici.v-moda.com/), you can get a one-time 70% discount. That's the main reason I got a pair of M100 + XL pads.
XL pads make a lot of difference to comfort, but little difference to sound and isolation. It's still a little shrill at high volumes, and those mids are still a bit scooped. But darn if it isn't a handsome and compact headphone though.
FWIW I did think the M80 sounded better than M100. If the XS was out when I was considering a V-Moda, I'd have probably gone with that.
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That was my main gripe with V-Moda's. I like portable headphones to be foldable thus I prefer a my PX200-II or K181 despite the better looks. I still consider the PX200-II as one of the best small portable headphones.
Foldable headphones occupy less space and sometimes my backpack is quite full.
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@iRo, check out the K267. Unless you think it looks like a satellite it's a winner. Only problem is that the cup and pads aren't actually circumaural. Was that a criterium?
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Got the Uberfrost in last night, using it via optical (24/96) with my mobo, because: 1) my sound card is refusing to work with the DAC, and 2) I have no other cables lying around.
Maybe the output signal is much stronger than I'm used to or something, but Civil Wars sounds great already. Bassy reverbs on stuff like the acoustic seem to sound real-er than before. Cheers everyone for your input!
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No USB gen 2?
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It's there! I just don't have the cables.
[Edit] Is there a difference between optical via mobo, or optical via soundcard?
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Ahh okay. Yes there is technically a difference as the optical from your soundcard may have less jitter than the optical from your mobo. Plus you'd get some soundcard features for using optical with it.
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Soundcard is more likely to have better performance than mobo optical, but you shouldn't have to worry about any of that once you hook it up via USB.
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Just got the cables all hooked up (USB, optical). Still can't get my Xonar to play nice with the Bifrost but at this point I can't be bothered.
What's more worrying is the USB connection is all kinds of popping, crackling badness (at all bitrate / frequency combinations)--weird. Perusing this thread in the hopes of isolating the problem but BOY do I hope I don't have to fiddle around that much to get this to work. My iPod dock couldn't arrive any sooner.
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Do you have other computers and USB ports you can try? I'm assuming latest drivers? Did you double check your audio output settings? Hopefully that's not indicative of a problem with the DAC, because I experienced no such thing with the Gungnir (also gen 2 USB).
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What player are you using and have installed and used the right drivers for the Bifrost from Schiit's website?
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Do you have other computers and USB ports you can try? I'm assuming latest drivers? Did you double check your audio output settings?
Yes, I've tried 2x USB 2.0 ports and 1x USB 3.0 port now, all at the back panel. All are loyal to cap'n crunch. I grabbed the drivers from the Bifrost page.
Audio output was tested under Windows Playback Devices...every test I run in there has the pop + crackle.
What player are you using and have installed and used the right drivers for the Bifrost from Schiit's website?
iTunes, set to Windows Audio Session at 24/96. Downloading Media Monkey to see if it makes a difference, but I doubt it--problems showed up in Windows Playback Devices.
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Try the Jriver trial. Mediamonkey used to be utter crap as of a year ago. Use ASIO or kernel/bit streaming. Whatever you Mac guys use these days.
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Try different USB cables, bro. It sounds like you're on the cusp of signal integrity. Digital doesn't fuzz up, it cracks and cuts. Do you have one with a ferrite?
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I think using Jriver would be your best bet. It is much easier to control the output in Jriver. If you want a cheaper alternative Foobar will probably work. I was turned off Foobar by the pain in set up compared with Jriver.
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Thanks again, pirates. You guys are the absolute best! I returned the cable and asked for a shorter one (2m, instead of 3m) and all seems well now. Running a song at 24/196 and everything is, finally, the way it should be.
Why Foobar/Jriver over MediaMonkey?
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IMO, JRiver MC has the most/best options, most intuitive UI, a good collection management system, and a solid, consistent sound. HQPlayer is also good, but expensive. It offers a lot of nice upsampling filters and sounds good, but the UI is weird, and it only supports a few types of lossless music files. cPlay is sorta similar to HQPlayer, but simpler, free, and has less options. Foobar is also good for being free. I felt JRMC and HQPlayer had better SQ than cPlay or Foodbar, though.
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Media monkey as of last year sounded awful. I used to run it for ages before I learned more about digital playback and tested other players. Everything I ripped with it or play back from it just sounded noticeably more dull and lacking. We're talking wave and flac here. I even heard it on other PCs. CEntrance used it on their demo rig and it's still heinous last I heard it. I could tell right way they were using the Monkey. Sounds like a Monkey throwing poo in your ears. It ir or was definitely one of those contributing factors that helps make everything sound the same.
It's one of those things you don't notice until you do a side by side and then you'll hear it right away from then on once you know what to listen for.
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A friend asked me what is the most neutral, accurate CIEM or IEM available these days? If cost is not an issue, what's your opinion?
I have the Noble K10's, but I don't know if they are the most neutral. This friend got a pair of Heir 8.A's and thought they were too colored and lacking detail. So he is a little leery about going with Noble again.
I have not heard the UERM. Are they considered neutral?
Thanks.
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UERM are regarded as very neutral by most people here AFAIK, but I don't know much more than that. I read that they might need a little bit of EQ for some tiny peak to be truly linear/neutral?
If that is a problem, I honestly don't know. Fitear F111 is considered very neutral but it might lack a bit of bass or so? and it's basically a more expensive Etymotic ER4-something, supposedly improved.
uhh sorry, don't think I'm actually of much help but UERM is definitely one I have in my sights for neutral/linear.
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A friend asked me what is the most neutral, accurate CIEM or IEM available these days? If cost is not an issue, what's your opinion?
I have the Noble K10's, but I don't know if they are the most neutral. This friend got a pair of Heir 8.A's and thought they were too colored and lacking detail. So he is a little leery about going with Noble again.
I have not heard the UERM. Are they considered neutral?
Thanks.
Yep, UERM is about as neutral as it gets. I haven't heard the K10s so I don't really know. There aren't any peaks in them I think, but you can just check the measurements posted here.
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UERM are regarded as very neutral by most people here AFAIK, but I don't know much more than that. I read that they might need a little bit of EQ for some tiny peak to be truly linear/neutral?
If that is a problem, I honestly don't know. Fitear F111 is considered very neutral but it might lack a bit of bass or so? and it's basically a more expensive Etymotic ER4-something, supposedly improved.
uhh sorry, don't think I'm actually of much help but UERM is definitely one I have in my sights for neutral/linear.
I have the ETY ER4S and they are really good, but NO bass at all. I've been searching for an ER4S with bass IEM or CIEM for a long time. Noble says they have done it with their new "switch" products (FR and PR), but I have heard them and they don't have the same detail and accuracy as the Ety's. But they have more bass. They sound like they might be tuned with elevated treble levels, but not more detail.
I will try to set up a demo for him with the UERM. So far there are no measurements with the K10 are there?
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UERM and Hidition NT6... from my understanding.
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If your Ety's have no bass, then deep insertion is the issue. What tips do you use with them? Because I find that I am very satisfied with the ER4's bass when using the small tri-flanges + deep insertion
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If your Ety's have no bass, then deep insertion is the issue. What tips do you use with them? Because I find that I am very satisfied with the ER4's bass when using the small tri-flanges + deep insertion
Well, I wouldn't say "no" bass, but very little. I am using the gray foam tips. Maybe I haven't been inserting them far enough. I will have to try the tri-flange tips again and see if a deeper insertion helps.
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What is the pirates take on the different playback softwares available on windows? Without any close inspection I cannot say that foobar is any better than jriver or jplay or vlc. I use fidelizer, which I thought provided some hints at improvement but nothing to get crazy about. I hear others rave about this or that software. What do you guys say?
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I think this very topic was discussed last 2 pages? People were advising me that JRiver is great (except that it's paid), and that Foobar is a decent option if you're willing to put in some work.
I went with Foobar because I didn't feel like paying $50 for JRiver; tinkering with little components here and there has been quite fun for me, actually. Love how I can set a default output for the player, and leave my system default to something else.
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I'm back to Windows Media Player. The other stuff crashed now and then.
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using foobar2000 here, I don't find it's a lot of work to set up. appearance-wise sure, there's a lot to tinker with. but it does kernel streaming by default and... what else does one need? :) I don't actually know.
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I had been using fidelizer because I was having some issues with Jriver and kernel streaming. I thought a priotitizing software might help. Sometimes I forget to run fidelizer after a restart amd I don't notice a difference.
Jplay is interesting. I know there is a bit of controversy surrounding it. I tried it and noticed a very slight difference. It is kind of expensive though for what it is. I found changing some settings in Jriver gets me to the point where I can't tell a difference between Jplay and without. I would do some more testing but I didn't want to commit to the extra money for Jplay just yet. I still think it may be doing something else like upsampling or EQ.
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There's almost no work involved in making foobar pretty if you go to deviantart, really. Just pick whatever looks good in the preview and it'll take about five minutes to set it up (usually just involves dropping some files in the installation folder and picking some option). Honestly, five seconds on google will find you just about any component you would ever need, like parametric EQ, upsampling, crossfeed, whatever. Don't see the point of using any other music player.
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ahoy
This forum is a breathe of fresh air compared to everything else on the net. Reading your measurements, finally, I'm getting why I prefer even my car audio to several different cans (some expensive, some not, but all praised on the other forums) .
I'm looking for office headphones, and I'm wondering how would you compare Sony MDR-1R to the likes of Focal Spirit Classic and NAD HP50. Unfortunately I'm in Europe and can't test them.
I'm gonna drive them trough the sound card directly and i'm looking for something balanced and not-Fatiguing (that's most important IMO).
Sony's cost less, yet NADs and Focals are more praised. Is there any other can I should like at?
Thanks in advance headbang
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Are you a quiet listener or do you crank up the volume?
Do you think a headphone that let's external sound in to be a good thing so your coworkers can get your attention more easily?
Do you care if they're huge (circumaural)?
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Mostly quiet. Definitely not a bass-head. I listen to different types of music, but I really appreciate when an acoustic record (jazz or classical) sounds natural and smooth.
Having isolation is better, but not a must. Don't mind if they're big, I wont walk with them.
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I have the MDR-1R and tried the NAD HP50 recently... the NAD weren't all that comfortable on me, but seems better than the Focal Spirit Pro/Classic. 1R are super comfy plus feels more like portable phones.
sound-wise, NAD wins by quite a bit in terms of just overall sound quality. I have modded my 1R and prefer them to stock, taken down bass levels a bit.
they're still not as good sound-wise but I chose for comfort levels and portability mainly, and the sound is just good enough for me. I got mine used at half of retail, wouldn't buy for full price I don't think.
and well... isolation is rather low on the 1R. I care more about sound leakage so that's fine with me, doesn't leak much.
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The best I've heard straight from the PC headphone jack was hands down the HD598 but it has no isolation, requires a reducer dongle, and looks a bit odd. The 1/4" to 1/8" reducer that comes with it is crap. Sennheiser makes a better one that I got and used... and still have around here somewhere.
For something with good isolation I prefer AKG stuff like the K550 or K27x. The K550 is more detailed but has less strength in the mids than the K271 or K272. Those latter two will sound more natural if a touch dry for acoustical recordings but definitely could use some help in the detail extraction department. They also have a very polarizing look. The K550 is not for smaller heads.
Maybe others could chime in on some ideas.
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I'll second the K550, especially if you can get them refurb'd by Harman for $130 like several of us did recently. I got mine today and have been enjoying them with the full range of my music. I think they sound better at medium volumes (good for working) and despite being closed, it has a rather large soundstage. There are many similarities to HD800s in that they tend toward brighter leaner, but they still have solid bass with surprising low extension. They have the big soundstage like HD800, but not as good and the highs aren't as refined. Detail extraction is good for the price, but not a giant killer. I'm listening to some acoustic bluegrass right now and it sounds good. I listened to some classical earlier and it really suited the K550. I think the K550's worst performance is with overproduced pop/rock, but then again most headphones have problems with that. The lean toward brightness makes the badly produced records fatiguing. Otherwise the only thing I can really notice with these is that vocals often have a synthetic feel to them. It isn't distracting to me as I get accustomed to it quickly and forget it unless I focus on the voice.
The K550 is comfortable enough I have worn them all of tonight, perhaps 5 hours straight so far. They are closed so there is some heat capture, but it hasn't been uncomfortable for me, no sweaty ears, etc. I do take them off here and there when moving about the house and those breaks give my ears a chance to cool and breathe. They aren't the most comfortable, but I don't have any specific complaints. Clamp is light to medium (more than HD800s), surfaces are smooth and comfortable, adjustment is easy and secure.
The HD598 is a great pick as well, but open at work would be no-go I would think.
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I've heard the Sony MDR-1R is really comfortable, so I'd consider it for that reason alone. The Creative Aurvana Live! with some basic mods is really nice for low-level listening, portable, comfortable, easy to drive, etc. Other options mentioned are worth considering as well.
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What changed in the K550? I remember back when they were released, it was highly (if not brutally) criticised by some here as terrible.
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unit variation it would seem. I only ever heard a pair I thought was good and didn't have treble pains, so no idea. maybe new revision?
purrin heard a really bad pair at some meet first I think? then someone sent him another pair that he really liked. so something happened at least.
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Need some advice. I am awaiting delivery on a pair of Enigmas and Slants. I also have HD800's (stock, but waiting for the release of Anax 3.0 some day.)
For an amp here's what I am looking at:
- I own a Vali.
- I can get a used Mjolnir for $450 (It was made in 2012. Have there been any upgrades since?)
- I can get anything new from Schiit for 25% off.
- Or something else?
- Or should I just be happy with my Vali? (Is it even worth upgrading if I can't afford to upgrade to an EC or Cavalli, etc.)
(For now I am using the prototype Vostock amp/DAC as my USB DAC.)
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It really depends what you want from your system.
The thing that impresses me most about the Vali is how well it does EC/Cavalli type plankton retrieval. The downside is that it lacks smoothness and clarity/refinement. To get the best of both worlds requires you jump up to EC/Cavalli. Everything else will likely be a compromise on a sliding scale from resolving--smooth. If you know where you want to be on that scale it will be much easier to figure out an amp for the HD800.
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It really depends what you want from your system.
The thing that impresses me most about the Vali is how well it does EC/Cavalli type plankton retrieval. The downside is that it lacks smoothness and clarity/refinement. To get the best of both worlds requires you jump up to EC/Cavalli. Everything else will likely be a compromise on a sliding scale from resolving--smooth. If you know where you want to be on that scale it will be much easier to figure out an amp for the HD800.
Thanks for the response.
Like I said, EC or Cavalli is probably out of the budget.
I definitely prefer resolving over smoothness, especially when I am using them with my Out Of Your Head software.
I love Stax , although I am going to have Enigmas and Slants for the amp. I think they're smooth enough for me. I don't want them any smoother or softer.
It sounds like the Vali is good enough for now since I already have one. I can save up and upgrade to EC or Cavalli someday.
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Quick question. I recently got a pair of ZMF's just for the hell of it with a 4-pin XLR jack and a Mogami Cable. It seems the left channel of the phones keeps cutting in and out. Any ideas for diagnosing whether it is my 1/4 to 1/8 adapter, the cable or the actual jack? Im going to drop by a store after Monday to try out a new adapter and a cable which should definitively tell me whats going on, but was wondering if you guys have any tips anyway.
Also, once I get them working I'll be sending them off on a tour if you guys are interested. Ill start up a thread in the appropriate forums later, but I'm not sure if you guys are interested in hearing (yet) another T50RP mod.
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The best I've heard straight from the PC headphone jack was hands down the HD598 but it has no isolation, requires a reducer dongle, and looks a bit odd. The 1/4" to 1/8" reducer that comes with it is crap. Sennheiser makes a better one that I got and used... and still have around here somewhere.
For something with good isolation I prefer AKG stuff like the K550 or K27x. The K550 is more detailed but has less strength in the mids than the K271 or K272. Those latter two will sound more natural if a touch dry for acoustical recordings but definitely could use some help in the detail extraction department. They also have a very polarizing look. The K550 is not for smaller heads.
Maybe others could chime in on some ideas.
Try the DT250-250, it will not sound as open as the HD598. It also has a warmish sound to it yet sounds very even across the frequency range. If I could fold it, it would have been my full size portable headphone.
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Would this be the right place to ask for music recommendations, or should I start a new thread?
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Would this be the right place to ask for music recommendations, or should I start a new thread?
For music the "What are you listening now" thread is good. There are 2014 recommendations and a few other dedicated music threads. Check the dedicated music threads...
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In terms of pure musicality/ euphonia, the LCD3 + Alo Studio Six I tried bested them for the genres I listen to, and I'm not even a fan of the Audeze sound in general. The Fostex TH-900 (yes, a closed can ... gasp) + GS-X MK2, to my mind, remains the most entertaining combo out of all the high-end rigs I've tried, easily besting the Abyss + LAu and LCD3 + Alo Six in terms of "high from music" moments and presentation.No other combo makes me want to bounce and bob around as much.
may i apply here my post as have no other choices '?
1]the gs-x is best match just for fostex and not to lcd-3 or hd 800 or abyss 1266 ?
2]and these other amps tried as well ?
3]one who listens not just modern electronic music but also lectures and classical ,who is seeking a balance sort of combination of resolution and joy and not fatiguing ,which combo would you suggest ?
Prelude3.1-SE
Bakoon - HPA-21 Headphone Amplifier
AudioValve RKV Headphone Tubes Amplifier
masskobo 394
Krell KSA-5 Headphone Amplifier
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Hi y'all,
I'm faced with an new problem: I just bought a tablet and I'm trying to use it to watch movies and videos, but my Etys are too fatiguing.
So I'm looking for a smooth and forgiving universal IEM for hours and hours of watching Netflix.
Price isn't so important, but I don't want to wait for a custom job. (For future reference, which custom would work best for this?)
Thanks much.
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I like the Hifiman RE-400 for this purpose. Pretty laid back kind of sound but still enough there to keep me interested. The quality on the first pair I had from the original run was kind of shitty and they broke after a couple of months. I got them replaced and the new version seems much more robust.
Just be aware that they won't isolate anywhere near as well as your Ety's, but that is true for pretty much all other IEMs
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Thanks. It's a good suggestion. In fact, it's the first thing I tried. It's better than Etys for watching movies, but still too fatiguing for me.
I like it otherwise--for music, that is. It isolates better with medium complies or large Sony hybrids than with stock bi-flanges.
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Check out those Tenores in the review threads. Smooth treble, good clarity for vocals, a slight touch of bass emphasis that would be just right for movies and videos. Imaging isn't the sharpest bit it should be fine for your application. Cheap.
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Thanks. You're right that more warmth would help. I'm concerned that it might be too bassy.
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Thanks. You're right that more warmth would help. I'm concerned that it might be too bassy.
It's not that bassy, only for critical audio listening. If you can get on the loaner tour for it, I'd suggest doing so to try them out.
IF you can EQ on your tablet they wouldn't need more than say -2-3dB somewhere between 50-150hz for music and really not at all for movies if you're used to Dolby. Dolby is much more exaggerated.
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I'll wait on more responses or maybe just order it too. I don't think there's a way to EQ Netflix, but it might not be necessary. Thanks again.
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Claritas, I'm actually taking my Tenore up for a short holiday this weekend, will be watching a bunch movies on the coach via my iPad. I can post impressions when I'm back.
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Thanks Eric. Much appreciated.
I caved after reading Shane's post favoring it over his ZMF recabled MH1. Really hope I don't get the bass heavy version.
Still, if other recommendations come to mind, I'd be pleased to learn more. Maybe a v-shaped sound could work too, as I listen at very low volumes.
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Hey Claritas, managed to get WiFi.
I watched 2 animated movies (Dark Knight Returns parts 1&2), the Tenores were good. There's one part in the first movie, where there were racing cars and dialogue, and it was hard to hear the dialogue. Other than that it was ok for audibility and everything sounded nice enough. Can't say much for isolation because there were no screening kids aboard the coach; the Tenores drowned out engine noise well enough.
For the price I can't see why you wouldn't want a pair.
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Thanks for the input.
Update: OK, these worked out. Even The Rockford Files theme doesn't bug me. Thanks much!
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Hello! After a few weeks of reading and searching I decided to go ahead and just directly ask for an advice. I'm trying to set up a rig of no more than about $500 consisting of an amp and a headphones (at least for now, I think I'd consider adding a DAC later). My source will be my laptop I guess, the only other thing I have is a Clip Zip. I'm on a student budget, and at this point in my life it doesn't seem responsible to spend more. I'm not looking for a hi-fi miracle, just something respectably nice to listen to. I really wanted something open for soundstage purposes but I'll consider closed cans too. Theoretically with my very limited experience I shouldn't be too hard to please, but I'm sort of discouraged at the moment. I have this sinking feeling that it might not be possible to get what I want with such a limited budget.
Listening background: Not much, just a lot of portableish budget-fi. I liked the V-Moda M80s, but the comfort wasn't too great. They really made me dislike my M50s because before them I hadn't realized how recessed the mids were before. I adored the way the M80s presented vocals. I've sold everything but my Etymotic HF2s. The HF5s were my first audio purchased above $100, and I loved them so much that when they broke I just rebought the micced version without trying any other IEMs. They're just so clean and easy to listen to.
What I've tried so far: K702s. They made my music sound boring and lifeless and something about them tired out my ears quickly. Granted I didn't have a real amp to try them with, just my Creative Soundblaster Omni. My thinking was that I could at least form a general opinion with that and get a real amp if I liked them. I wonder if that was a mistake now and if I really gave them a fair chance.
Music Preferences: Acoustic genres like musicals, orchestrated game soundtracks, jazz, etc are closest to my heart but I really listen to a lot of different music. Preferably I'll find something that isn't too bad with anything, even if it's at the expense of technical profiency.
I've thought a lot about trying the HD600 but replacing the pads periodically at a cost of $60 sounds expensive.
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Portable or desktop? Still have the 702 or not? Geek Out 1000 w/ 702 or a Schiit stack. Bifrost and Vali, Asgard 2 or Valhalla 2.
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I owned hd600s for 5+ years without a pad change and was just fine.
Used newer revision HD600 and geek out 450. Not kidding, one of my favorite combos of all time.
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Portable or desktop? Still have the 702 or not? Geek Out 1000 w/ 702 or a Schiit stack. Bifrost and Vali, Asgard 2 or Valhalla 2.
I figured desktop would be the only way to go in my budget so far as amps, but a nice portable would certainly be more convenient. I returned the K702s so I no longer have them.
I owned hd600s for 5+ years without a pad change and was just fine.
Used newer revision HD600 and geek out 450. Not kidding, one of my favorite combos of all time.
Really, you haven't had a problem with the pads wearing out? I'd been reading about them needing to be changed yearly, if not more often to maintain sound quality.
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I don't know how gross those people must be, but my pads do just fine.
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I don't know how gross those people must be, but my pads do just fine.
Gross as in gross weight?
HD600 pad wear isn't so much a lack of hygiene issue as it is a head size issue. People with a large head will squish the pads to death. People with a smaller head can get years of daily use from the pads.
If you do have a large head you can stretch the HD600/HD650 so it doesn't squeeze as much and squish the pads as much. Extend the ear cups fully and flex (bend) the metal to stretch it out. Don't try to stretch the plastic part of the headband, it may crack.
I get years of use from my HD580 and HD600 pads. Even back when they were my daily use headphones.
The sound quality of the Senns does depend on how unsquished the pads are.
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If you're concerned about the pads, I know some guys who've bought an extra pair and alternate every couple of weeks. They say it makes them last a lot longer, kinda like shoes.
Anyway, I think HD600 is your best choice unless you can find a K501 in good condition at a reasonable price.
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I was gonna suggest HD600, Vali, and Modi. Haven't heard it myself, but from what Ive read i can't imagine it not being stellar for the money.
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I have! I like it a lot. but it does sound a lot warmer than the k702, so hopefully it won't be a dull shock coming from those.
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Hammy: you want a setup for acoustic, classical, and videogame music right? I'm listening to Bifrost Uber > Vali > HD 600 right now, and it all sounds good to my ears. Was just playing some tracks from "Greatest Video Game Music" and Oscar Peterson Trio's "We Get Requests"; there's a good sense of spatial cues, and tonal correctness.
Individually, the HD600 and Vali are also good investments. They scale well. I noticed the Vali sounding better off Bifrost than my Xonar soundcard, and there's no shortage of testimonies where the HD600 is concerned. Both are great choices.
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So the consensus seems to be the HD600 then? I'll have to keep an eye out for when they drop under MSRP again. The pads thing still kinda scares me but my head is small (if I have to extend headbands at all, it's usually only a click or two) so maybe it'll be less of an issue. And I can still try stretching them out. Too bad there aren't any suitable aftermarket pads. I think I've pretty much decided that I want the Vali, and maybe after a while I'll add the Modi. Thanks for the help!
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The issue with head size isn't about how how far you need to extend the ear cups. It's about head width. If you have a wide head like a sumo wrestler you'll kill the ear pads. If have a skinny head more like a pencil neck geek you'll get years and years and years of use from the ear pads. I get years of use from the HD600 ear pads.
The HD600 will work very well from a little Schiit stack. I have the little Modi DAC and Magni amp. Does very well with the HD600. Much better than you would expect from a $99 amp. Surprisingly close to the original Asgard amp with the HD600. I've not tried the Vali amp with the Senns, so can't comment on that.
The HD600 will do well for the music you mention. Well suited for acoutical flavors of music, classical, jazz. They'll train your ears for what is a neutral sound signature. I also much prefer the HD600 to the K702. The Senns have a certain soul to the music that the AKG seems to strip away.
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I am using the Brainwavz HM5 velour ear pads (~$23) for modding purposes, but they also qualify as some cheap alternative to Sennheiser HD6xx replacement pads, which are around $70 or so? As the graph indicates the FR is quite similar, yellow being the stock green the HM5 velour pads.
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Strato, are the HM5 velour pads relatively easy to install on the HD600? I might give that a shot for kicks, but I can't say I've toyed with them that much to know how easy or difficult it might be.
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Best way to do it is to remove the plastic mounting ring from a used Senn HD600 pad and slide this ring under the HM5 lid at the back of the pad. Alternatively, you can simply stretch the pleather lid of the HM5 pad a little and directly apply it by slipping it on the HD600 cup.
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Cool, I think I can manage that. :)
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Interesting. I've got the HM5 and also two spare sets of the standard pads (I do like the HM5 for direct from a laptop or portable player). I don't have the thicker memory foam velour or thicker memory foam pleather pads. Hadn't thought of trying HM5 pads on the HD600. Been waiting for the HM5 to have a sale special before doing another order for the phones and spare pads.
The HD580/HD600 is picky about pads. When the stock pads get too worn and squished the midrage gets too forward and the phones lose their neutral style of sound. I wouldn't have expected other brands of pads to match the stock pads well.
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My measurements (and ears) tell me that pleather HM5 pads do not work, velour pads do!
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I am using the Brainwavz HM5 velour ear pads (~$23) for modding purposes, but they also qualify as some cheap alternative to Sennheiser HD6xx replacement pads, which are around $70 or so? As the graph indicates the FR is quite similar, yellow being the stock green the HM5 velour pads.
That definitely helps, thanks! I just ordered an open box pair for about $300 and a Vali to pair with it. I'm cautiously excited. Again, thanks everyone for your responses!
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Alright, a little about me.
Current gear: LH Labs Geek Out, Senn HD280 Pro, Meelectronics A151, Sony IEM, several other pro audio headphones from work.
Ended up listening to a bunch of wild stuff due to the big cheese of Headcase being a friend-of-a-friend. Really liked the HD600 off a Magni and Modi in a hotel room meet. Strongly considering getting it.
So: for ~$300-400, what would you recommend for someone who likes a very neutral headphone? I'm used to pro audio gear which tends to have the job of pointing out what's wrong, particularly in the treble. I like that level of detail and resolution but want something that isn't fatiguing in sound or comfort. Again, HD600 is a front runner. Considered the Focal Spirit Pro as it sounds like the balance I like but it seems they have some real build quality and comfort issues. LFF Paradox Slant seems great but that's expensive. I'm used to closed headphones but the HD600 had me going "hmmm."
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HD600 is awesome, especially if you can find one around $275-300. They're not perfectly neutral (I recently posted measurements in one of the HD600 threads), but they've got a better balance than most headphones. I think they have room for improvement with light front and back damping mods and maybe even different, but similar, pads. I do find the HD600 to be a bit too tight on clamp, though you can stretch it out a bit. It does seem to go back to its original shape after time, or close to it.
If you're willing to go higher, I have my woodied HE-500 for sale. It's pretty neutral-ish. ;) I might also be putting my HD600 up for sale if I find the PM-2 to be a suitable replacement for my tastes, and I'll be sure to let you know if so.
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If you like the hd600, you can find the hd580 for around $150 on ebay. It's basically the same sound, from what I've read around here. You can stretch out the metal part of the headband if the clamp is too much.
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Anyone have experience with studio monitors?
I've got a friend who wants to get a pair for his brother's birthday. He's working within a $400 budget, the table's got 6" clearance from the wall, and can take a footprint for most 5" monitors.
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Active monitors? I fear that the budget may be a little bit low --- but will also be interested in the advice if anyone has any.
Not really active, (I think you could say "powered;" there is one amplifier in one cabinet for both speakers), but well within that budget, I have M-Audio AV40, and consider them to be very good value for money. Equator make a 5-inch model. Their speakers are coaxial. Have heard and enjoyed, and consider a possible upgrade for myself.
Gearslutz is the forum for this stuff, and with so many people making home-made music these days, it is not at all limited to high-end stuff, although that is there too for those who who want to drool. As the song says, You gotta have a dream...
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Anyone have experience with studio monitors?
I've got a friend who wants to get a pair for his brother's birthday. He's working within a $400 budget, the table's got 6" clearance from the wall, and can take a footprint for most 5" monitors.
http://www.sweetwater.com/c405--Active_Monitors/params=eyJyYW5nZSI6eyJQcmljZSBSYW5nZSI6eyJsb3dlciI6IiIsInVwcGVyIjoiNDAwIn19fQ
Those JBLs have had excellent reviews.
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I also have the AV40, but not for any monitoring, just office desktop speakers. I got them on recommendation from my cousin, who at the time was doing a lot of amateur music production. He was using the m-audio bx series monitors, can't remember if it was the 5" or 8", and he found those very functional for what he was doing. Street price for the 8 is well below $400, and if your bro is stuck with 5", the price is somewhere between 250 or 300.
Also, as you shop, if you find something just past the price range, I encourage you to specifically look at the open box / b-stock areas of all the usual sites, sweetwater, b&h, full compass, etc, as monitors in this price range seem to be frequently bought and returned, and the reduced price will not always show up on a simple google shop search
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Maybe Emotiva's Airmotiv line?
https://emotiva.com/products/emotiva-pro/powered-monitors-0
The 4s fit his budget and it's free shipping in the US if he lives in the U.S. The original 4s that I heard were pretty good so the upgraded 4s should be a step up. If he can push the budget a little, then the 5s are even better.
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Thanks for chiming in, everyone.
The tip on b-stock sounds good, I'll keep that in mind!
Airmotiv: yeah I was thinking of that too, but we're all in Singapore, so the shipping would kill the value of that, and it probably reach in time for the birthday.
"Active": I'm not sure what the right term is, but definitely "with an amp inside each speaker".
Gonna keep shopping around locally, maybe bring my buddy to test out some of the models listed.
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call emotiva and ask for b stock Airmotiv 4s and expeditied international shipping
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I'd get those JBLs
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I'd get those JBLs
Me too. Sweetwater has demos/b-stock.
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I'd forgotten about those JBLs. Why? Because they are only available here in India for an absurdly inflated price that throws the incredible value for money accolade down the drain. :)p2
I see you are in Singapore. I have this place on the list for my next visit... Luther Music (Monitors Page (http://luthermusic.com/index.php/recording/studio-monitors.html)), and I got my AV-40s from Sinamex.
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Emotiva has no b-stock on the Airmotiv, and it turns out expedited shipping will absolutely kill the value of their offering. Thanks for the suggestion though, I wouldn't have thought to call them otherwise.
JBLs definitely on my shortlist now.
Thad: hey fellow Asian! My office is near enough to both those stores, I'll check them out.
[Update: he settled on Mackie MR-5. Thanks again all!]
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NB: if this is too detailed, feel free to bump into own thread, where the topic can slowly die alone.
Quandry: I have a small sum burning a hole in my pocket, maybe 8-900 USD. Main listening is done via computer > ODAC > Asgard2 > HE-560 (sometimes DT880 and DT150, rarely SR225i).
Possible Options:
1) Gungnir w/ usb2 to updgrade source for benefit of many future headphones, including option to try balanced. I don't think balanced will drive me to epic satisfaction, but I figure I gotta try it before I write it off, OR WILL I LOVE IT?
2) HD600 and a Valhalla2 need to try out HD600, never tried, always love beyer sound, but now with age and financial stability, comes the great responsibility of spending ever more money to tinker with sound. Ulterior motive: I have a pair of 2000 ohm dt100 that I really want to drive for realz, and I suspect Valhalla2 is safest affordable route to that end.
3) save for HD800 the only problem is I know if I get the 800, I will immediately want the items in options 1 and 2, so this is a bit premature.
Thoughts?
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HD 600 > DT-880, and they're actually more similar than not. If you go with option 2 just sell the Beyer.
But my gut tells me you should get a Gungnir. I'm real happy with my Bifrost, but for realz if I could swing the cash I would've just gone Gungnir (even though I never bother with balanced).
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You absolutely don't need to use it balanced to get the benefits of Gungnir over Bifrost.
...yes I know I'm gushing about gungnir too much... >.>
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I've always liked the hd600 much more than the dt880s but since you have the he-560, I don't see much of a reason for getting the hd600 unless you just want another pair of headphones with a different sound. As for the hd800, it's a big investment and there's a good chance that you might not like them.
Like Soup said, you don't need to go balanced in order to get the benefits of the Gungnir. I've never even used the balanced on my gungnir output. It seems like the odac is the weakest in your chain right now so the gungnir would be a sweet upgrade. If you're patient, just wait til someone sells one on head-fi for cheap or buy b-stock from schiit to save a little bit of money. I tried my friend's he-560 with my gungnir and virtue one.3 and we were both really impressed by how it sounded through my system. Way better than on his oppo ha-1. I said this in the shoutbox, but I'll say it again here: "If hard hitting bass, sweet vocals, lively but smooth treble, and high dynamics is what you're looking for, then the gungnir is the way to go."
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I appreciate the quick replies, in kind:
I don't see much of a reason for getting the hd600 unless you just want another pair of headphones with a different sound
Trying something different is kind of the point, I know they are more similar than different, but I also know they were the focus of wild debate frenzied fan-boy warfare for years, and I was not in a position to compare during that time. As stated, the hd600 is part and parcel with acquisition of Valahalla, which I would keep no matter which headphone survives. Part of this urge is about expanding headphone literacy. Part of this urge is fueled by the recent iteration of "MEGA price drop on HD600 and HD650!!!1"
if I could swing the cash I would've just gone Gungnir (even though I never bother with balanced).
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You absolutely don't need to use it balanced to get the benefits of Gungnir over Bifrost.
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Like Soup said, you don't need to go balanced in order to get the benefits of the Gungnir.
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buy b-stock from schiit to save a little bit of money.
I figured this would be consensus answer, but you know the way these urges work: all at once. I lurked quite a bit re: gungnir, and when I think of buying an uber bifrost, vs b-stock gungnir (there are currently a few) the price difference is not so great as to forego the latter. The appeal of balanced is, for me, more novelty than necessity, but I like being in a position to at least try it rather than getting the bifrost and in a year saying, "fu...uck," when my curiosity reawakens.
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I don't consider the jump from Uber Bifrost to Gungnir to be a small one. Having them both side by side right now makes it easy for me to hear the obvious differences between the two. Unless of course the highly dynamic nature of the Gungnir turns you off(which it seems to for many) I would say it's a no brainer.
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aufmerksam, you can always get the gungnir... and then buy a used hd580! :)p2
I think that fits your budget!
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For under $400, is there a better desktop amp for the HE-560 than the Vali? If so, I'd appreciate recommendations.
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For under $400, is there a better desktop amp for the HE-560 than the Vali? If so, I'd appreciate recommendations.
Do you want tubes or SS? For SS I think the Asgard2 is a hell of a value proposition at $250. I have not compared to Vali, but I have found it very capable for all of the ortho's I have tried (HE-560, HE-500, LCD-3).
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For under $400, is there a better desktop amp for the HE-560 than the Vali? If so, I'd appreciate recommendations.
Do you want tubes or SS? For SS I think the Asgard2 is a hell of a value proposition at $250. I have not compared to Vali, but I have found it very capable for all of the ortho's I have tried (HE-560, HE-500, LCD-3).
I'm not partial to SS or tube/hybrid (I like both).. sorry, should've clarified.. anything out side of the Asgard 2/Schiit? If people have tried many amps please list) and found the Vali (or A2) to be the best.. that's a valuable opinion to me, as well.
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Maybe a used Virtue ONE? The older versions would have certainly cost less than $400.
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Maybe a used Virtue ONE? The older versions would have certainly cost less than $400.
Good suggestion.. was there ample play on the pot w/ the 560's hooked up to the binding posts? excessive noise floor and/or gain issues?
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Yep, the pot starts at 9'oclock and goes all the way around. Usable range is about 9-12 for me, and can get pretty loud. There was no floor noise surprisingly with the 130w PSU and no gain issues. If you stick with the stock 65w PSU you'll have even more volume to play around with but I don't think the SQ will be as good. The battery PSU is also an option instead of the 130w, which will open up more options for headphone uses since batteries tend to be quieter.
There's one here (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=127244.0) for $350 shipped with the stock PSU. Good deal considering the price for a new one now is $500.
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For under $400, is there a better desktop amp for the HE-560 than the Vali? If so, I'd appreciate recommendations.
FWIW, I didn't care too much for the Vali + HE500 combo. Made them sound a bit thin and strained. HE560 may be different. I'm sure you could find a better amp for them in your budget. I run my orthos from a vintage Sansui 5000A. Perhaps colored and warm, but, whatever...I like it. Gives them balls and makes them sound more effortless!
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500 is a rather different animal from the 560. Vali would never be a good idea with a 500 imo.
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Well then, there you go! But do you not think he could do better with his budget? (I do like the Vali a lot, BTW.)
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For under $400, is there a better desktop amp for the HE-560 than the Vali? If so, I'd appreciate recommendations.
http://violectric-usa.com/headphone-amplifiers/g103-s what about this ? :)
Nobody cares about Garage 1217 ember project here ?
A used meier concerto would be my first choice for a HE500 though :)
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Alright Gents...I only have the money for 1 piece of upgraded gear right now, and here's my debate.
Current: HRT MSII --> Asgard 1 --> DT880
Option 1: Replace the Asgard 1 with a Valhalla 2. I know that the DT880 sounds like a brand new headphone on the original Valhalla, so this would be a pretty significant sonic upgrade.
Option 2: Replace the DT880 with the HE-400i. I've heard the HE-500 and adore it. Many are saying that the 400i is similar and I should get a chance to hear it sometime in September.
Cast your votes! Or ignore this entirely and tell me to go in an completely new direction. I'm open to ideas.
:)p3
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90% of the time when faced with a decision like this... I go with the headphone upgrade. In this case, I would definitely go with the HE-400i even without hearing it. HFM has showed good promise with their new single-sided HE-560, so if that is any indication I would go for it. Those Beyers.. gots to go.
Option #2! :)p1
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Option #2 since I'm waiting for the he-400i as well.
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90% of the time when faced with a decision like this... I go with the headphone upgrade. In this case, I would definitely go with the HE-400i even without hearing it. HFM has showed good promise with their new single-sided HE-560, so if that is any indication I would go for it. Those Beyers.. gots to go.
Option #2! :)p1
Thanks for the vote. I'm assuming this is the way it will lean, but I thought I'd throw it out there anyway.
As an aside, have you heard "those Beyers" with an OTL tube amp? It's not a bad combo at all.
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He400i. I'm waiting for my tour he400i to arrive and I expect to buy them
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I heard both recently side by side (Beyers with OTL). Option 2.
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Will you listen to the 400i before you make purchase decision? I think since you have the chance to hear them soon, do that before abandoning the DT880 + Valhalla 2 option. You know you enjoy the 880 w/ an OTL tube amp, you have heard the 880 with Valhalla, accounts from reliable sources (specs + humans) indicate Valhalla 2 is a significant improvement, and it is certainly the less expensive path ($350 vs $500).
Another option, just to muddy things up... if you know you liked the HE-500, snag a used pair for cheap! It will play nice with your Asgard 1, and if you watch the forums, you can snag a pair for ~$400. In my experience the 500 is all-around superior to the 880, but I have not heard the 880 specifically from an OTL tube amp... yet.
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90% of the time when faced with a decision like this... I go with the headphone upgrade. In this case, I would definitely go with the HE-400i even without hearing it. HFM has showed good promise with their new single-sided HE-560, so if that is any indication I would go for it. Those Beyers.. gots to go.
Option #2! :)p1
Thanks for the vote. I'm assuming this is the way it will lean, but I thought I'd throw it out there anyway.
As an aside, have you heard "those Beyers" with an OTL tube amp? It's not a bad combo at all.
It's personal preferences speaking here. I've owned more Beyers than any other headphone manu even the fabled T1 + WA2 combo (which I thought was fine). Problem is while I adored the comfort (most comfortable headphones I've worn) the sound just wasn't up to snuff. Nothing against the 880/OTL combo, just not my cup of tea. Too metallicy and strident even with the heavy dose of syrup.
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I guess Beyer + OTL is "as good as a Beyer gets"? But therein lies the limiting factor: Beyer sound signature is still fundamentally unchanged.
Plus the comfort. I've foregone other headphones because Beyer comfort heavily biased me toward it.
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Buy my HE-500 (with all sorts of goodies thrown in)! Haha. I can cut you a good deal, and it's pretty with the wood cups!
The 400i also sounds like it will be pretty good.
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Loving my HD600s. Thanks again for the advice headbang
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Hi guys,
I've been using the Centrance HiFi-M8 as my secondary dac/amp for my desktop mac. I have a separate set up for more serious listening.
I realize I don't need the portability and from what I read here, a schiit stack could probably serve me better for the same amount or less. My headphones are HD800 and TH900. I have Wyrd + Modi + Vali in mind, but I'm also wondering if an used bifrost uber (either with Vali or asgard 2) would be a better choice?
Appreciate your comments in advance!
John
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Hi guys,
I've been using the Centrance HiFi-M8 as my secondary dac/amp for my desktop mac. I have a separate set up for more serious listening.
I realize I don't need the portability and from what I read here, a schiit stack could probably serve me better for the same amount or less. My headphones are HD800 and TH900. I have Wyrd + Modi + Vali in mind, but I'm also wondering if an used bifrost uber (either with Vali or asgard 2) would be a better choice?
Appreciate your comments in advance!
John
Bifrost 2 uber is definitely better than the Modi.
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Bifrost 2 uber is definitely better than the Modi.
Yeah I just picked up an used bifrost uber and I am going to add Wyrd and Vali. I don't like HD800 out of Centrance but from the comments I think Vali should do a decent job.
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Bifrost 2 uber is definitely better than the Modi.
I don't like HD800 out of Centrance
Oh man, you couldn't more right. I had to try to live w/ the HD800 for 4 months out of a DACPort. Never lasted more than 5 minutes before I ripped them off my head. Perfect case to study about the claims of basic signal and electrical transparency that is anything but. Even an O2 has better bass with the HD800 than a DACPort or HifiM8 which is just anemic and thin by comparison unless you use the special coloration switches which exist cuz, u know, transparency. Doh!
DACPort LX is a really good DAC for the price and package though so I don't want to give Michael too hard a time. Amps are just not his thing IME though I have heard much worse still fwiw.
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As someone who has a DACport and a HD800 which I rarely use... Any ideas whether either my Leckerton UHA760 or Apex Glacier (or even possibly HRT Headstreamer, or E7) might be more kind to it?
I don't quite have the funds to purchase a proper amp at the moment and frankly I don't really know what the HD800 is supposed to sound like.
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Just another opinion: On a tight budget and looking for something small and semi-portable the Geek Out has been the best choice IMO. I have the GO450 which works fine with the HD800, but you might want to opt for the 720/1000.
If space and/or portability isn't a concern there are plenty of budget options out there. (i.e Val 2/GO450)
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Just another opinion: On a tight budget and looking for something small and semi-portable the Geek Out has been the best choice IMO. I have the GO450 which works fine with the HD800, but you might want to opt for the 720/1000.
If space and/or portability isn't a concern there are plenty of budget options out there. (i.e Val 2/GO450)
Oh agreed. I have the GO 720 and it works fine with the HD 800. On the small desktops, I would even venture to name the Vali before the Val 2.
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Posting in the all-purpose advice thread to get some input/advice on my next headphone purchase. By way of background, my first decent can was the Grado SR80-i. Now, I basically listen to those only once or twice a year since I think Matthew Sweet's Girlfriend or 100% Fun sound really good on them. But otherwise they sit in the closet. I might use them a little more often except their discomfort is unbearable to me no matter how much I try to stretch the headband. Also, I have become less enchanted with the 60-225 line over the years.
A couple of years ago I bought the AKG Q701. I know this is a divisive can, but I really like it. First, for me it is very comfortable. I have no problem with the bumps. The cups are deep enough that they don't irritate my ears. And they are one of the few cans that when I wear my glasses are not locked onto my head. There is enough give that I can move them around a bit. The clamp also doesn't bother my TMJ. I personally really love the AKG-wide soundstage, whether it is natural or not. I also find the bass very musical, but the lack of impact has become more of an issue for me over time, at least for some types of music. Great can IMO but it has limitations. I also have the V-Moda M-80 for portable and it suits my needs perfectly.
At various meets and audio shows I got to try out Audeze over the past few years and kind of fell for them. Unfortunately it was the LCD-3 and I was hearing them on uber-expensive setups well beyond my price range (or at least what I can justify to myself). But when I have listened to them they have pretty consistently given me a schiit- eating grin. I figured the LCD-2 would be good enough and I do enjoy it and it is much more affordable, but when I have tried them I get a little less of the aforementioned grin than with the LCD-3. But I imagine I could be pretty happy with the LCD-2. Comfort and ergonomics have always concerned me a bit though, not so much due to weight but due to (potential) clamping pressure.
My like for the AKG Q701 but reticence over lack of bass might suggest the HD800 as a possible direction. However, while I respect that phone a lot and have heard many on good setups, I just don't have love for it. I really cannot say why. Plus, putting together an affordable front-end for them to make them as good as what I have heard would be a challenge from all that I have read. So, the HD-800 is not really on the table for me.
Earlier this summer, I had decided to buy the Oppo PM-2 as soon as it was released. I liked the look, weight and ergonomics of it, as well as the fact that it was really efficient and was claimed to be drivable from a portable. But then with all the talk of different pads here and elsewhere I decided to hold off until there were more impressions. Perhaps like many I was hoping for an Audeze in a more comfortable can that could be driven more easily. Not really fair to Oppo as they are entitled to have their own sound and not just be an Audeze clone, but I suspect that is what many hoped for (or at least I did). Also, at the time I was not aware of then forthcoming (now released) HE-560 and HE-400i. So, I decided to wait and try to hear those.
I have now had the opportunity to hear the latest LCD-2 (Fazor version) and the HE-560 on good setups. I very briefly heard the HE-400i but only out of a portable,not an amp, so not really fair to it. The HE-560 is very compelling. Very comfortable, although I wish the cups were a bit rounder and/or deeper. The inside of the cups sort of touch the outside of my ear. Not really uncomfortable so much as potentially annoying. They generally sounded a little more neutral to me than the LCD-2, but perhaps less "fun". Also, while A/Bing them against the LCD-2 off of the Mcintosh MHA 100 (not perfectly level matched comparison, but close enough to judge the different flavors of the cans) and going back and forth comparing tracks, I did have a disconcerting moment with the HE-560. After listening to the Beach Boys' "Sloop John B" from Pet Sounds on the Audeze, I went to the HE-560 and adjusted the volume to where they had been sort of level. When I hit play I literally said "Aghh!" out loud and quickly reached for the knob to lower the volume. I had never though of that track as particularly bright, but the glockenspiel at the beginning was just piercing off of that amp at least. Concerns me a bit as to what other music I might find too bright off of the HE-560. As far as the Audeze, I have never found it too bright with anything. As you all know, the converse is the problem and it can seem a bit dull at times. Given that I already have a somewhat bright can though, I think that might be OK, particularly because I do really dig the Audeze bass, even on the LCD-2.
As among the planars, I am looking at the HE-560, the LCD-2 and the Oppo PM-2. I would love to try the Oppos wthout having to go through the hassle of buying and then returning if unsatisfied. But there does not seem to be an opportunity for that so I would just have to take a risk on them I guess. (One other thing that I like about the Oppo is that they lay flat and store in a small denim case. I am very lazy and, all things being equal, I will get more use out of something that I can grab and setup easily, and I think the Oppo fits that bill better than the others.)
On other days, I wonder if these higher priced cans are worth it to me, or if I would be happy just picking up an HD-600 or HD-650 or the HE-400iand saving some money. I do really like the HD-600 and it would be somewhat complementary to what I have. But I just worry I would still have that itch for a higher-end can and if so will end up scratching it later; if so, I may as well do it now.
TL; DR:
Looking at higher-end cans: Thoughts on HE-560 v LCD-2 v Oppo PM-2 are appreciated.
May save money and just buy another mid-tier can to add to my collection: HD600 v HD650 v HE-400i.
Also, I am just using a Marantz integrated amp for my AKG Q701 and it is fine for that purpose. I will get a dedicated head-amp if I upgrade though, but I want to decide on the can first and then the amp.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
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HD-600. They will sound great form the Marantz while you look at amps.
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@Colgin:
You are suffering from he problem that all of us have. No easy answer.
The HE-560 is the most finicky, but can also be the most rewarding. Results seem to vary depending upon pads, equipment, and recordings.
HD600 scales like mad once you get better equipment. Complaint is bass quality isn't the greatest. Of course once you get better equipment...
The PM-2 might be a good bet (read Hans and my impressions of it) and pads / mods are easy to implement so you can shape the sound somewhat to your liking. It's probably the least fussy and most consistent from a variety of rigs. I do like the PM-2 quite a bit and its a good choice if you want to stick with simple setups as opposed to the insane setups some of us have.
Maybe even sticking with Q701 and using Parametric digital EQ (if you use computer)?
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HE-560 amping question (might be relevant to Colgin too):
Right now it's Bifrost Uber > Vali > HE-560 with Focus-A pads.
Is Asgard 2 much of an upgrade?
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@Colgin:
You are suffering from he problem that all of us have. No easy answer.
The HE-560 is the most finicky, but can also be the most rewarding. Results seem to vary depending upon pads, equipment, and recordings.
HD600 scales like mad once you get better equipment. Complaint is bass quality isn't the greatest. Of course once you get better equipment...
The PM-2 might be a good bet (read Hans and my impressions of it) and pads / mods are easy to implement so you can shape the sound somewhat to your liking. It's probably the least fussy and most consistent from a variety of rigs. I do like the PM-2 quite a bit and its a good choice if you want to stick with simple setups as opposed to the insane setups some of us have.
Maybe even sticking with Q701 and using Parametric digital EQ (if you use computer)?
Thanks for the response.
Like with the HD-800, the "finickiness" of the HE-560 concerns me. Also, I have only heard it sound really good out of high-end amps. Not to say it wouldn't out of less expensive ones, but I just don't know from personal experience. For example, I think the O2 drives the LCD-2 acceptably, but not gloriously. I heard the O2 with the HE-560 and was like "bleh", not awful on certain tracks, but just couldn't really drive them properly IMO, particularly on older non-brickwalled tracks. I wonder what the minimum I would need to spend off-the-bat on an amp to even make this a worthwhile purchase.
Cannot do parametric EQ with the AKG unfortunately. My source is a Sonos system, so while I am streaming files off of my computer (soon to be transferred to a dedicated NAS), I am using the Sonos player which only has useless treble, mid and bass adjustments; you cannot incorporate (to my knowledge) an outside EQ program into the system. Another alternative though since I like the AKG Q701 but wish it had more bass, is the AKG K712, which is supposed to have a little more bass emphasis. Would love to hear a pair, but I cannot find a local dealer that has them. Heck, even the Harman Kardon alleged "flagship" store here doesn't carry them.
Any love for the LCD-2. If one is looking at a new LCD-2 (rosewood) versus a PM-2, then there is a substantial price difference that the Audeze would need to justify over the PM-2. But if you look used (or open box) in the bamboo versus a new PM-2, then there is not too much price differential. While not having great width in the soundstage, the newer Fazor versions of the LCD-2 are good enough for me given the other strong attributes of that phone. If the PM-2 has an even narrower sound stage then I am not sure I would be happy with it at its current price regardless of its other merits. If it is the same or wider then we may have a winner (or it might then be worth it for me to take a chance and just buy a pair with the fallback of the 30-day return policy; although I would not feel good about returning unless I was terribly disappointed).
Can't go wrong with the HD-600 but not sure it will scratch the ortho itch. Although maybe I just pick them up at the current decent price to have a new toy while I wait and listen some more on the more expensive cans.
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The PM-2 state is certainly narrow. One way to look at the PM-2's stage is that it's realistic or equivalent to a 2 channel speaker setup. Another way to look at it is that it's headphones, and why not go for wider, more open, and spacious?
I would have to say that the LCD-2 does give us that better sense of space - even though the stage not that much wider than PM-2. The LCD-2 is darker sounding though - and that is either a plus or minis depending upon your tastes. But I do believe that the LCD2 will scale a little bit more.
I have a PM-2 loaner from Oppo. I'll ask them I can put this on the Changstar loaner list and put your name on the list if you are interested. Anaxilus currently has them.
Anyways PM2 or LCD2 would be good non-finicky candidates to satisfy your ortho itch.
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The HD600/650 made me fall out of the "ortho itch" camp. Put a lot of things in perspective for me. Made me question most of my past purchasing decisions, especially the PM-2. Granted, I'm also a desktop setup sort of guy, so I get no real benefit out of the PM-2's benefits of being easy to drive and consistent from about any source.
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The PM-2 state is certainly narrow. One way to look at the PM-2's stage is that it's realistic or equivalent to a 2 channel speaker setup. Another way to look at it is that it's headphones, and why not go for wider, more open, and spacious?
I would have to say that the LCD-2 does give us that better sense of space - even though the stage not that much wider than PM-2. The LCD-2 is darker sounding though - and that is either a plus or minis depending upon your tastes. But I do believe that the LCD2 will scale a little bit more.
I have a PM-2 loaner from Oppo. I'll ask them I can put this on the Changstar loaner list and put your name on the list if you are interested. Anaxilus currently has them.
Anyways PM2 or LCD2 would be good non-finicky candidates to satisfy your ortho itch.
Yes, I would appreciate it if you could put me on the list (if Oppo permits it). And if I buy it before then I will take my name off and, of course, post impressions.
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Colgin - we got the OK from Oppo to get the loaner. Anaxilus currently has it, unless he handed it over to ultrabike. I'll check in with them to see who has it.
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Colgin - we got the OK from Oppo to get the loaner. Anaxilus currently has it, unless he handed it over to ultrabike. I'll check in with them to see who has it.
Cool. Just let me know who I should PM my info to for whenever it becomes available. Thanks again.
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Hi, I'd like to ask ya'll on which portable amp that is suitable for IEM has good dynamics and excel at female vocal. I'm not yet planning on using it for headphones (yet), and prefer it to be a pure amp rather than the DAC/Amp. Source would be AK120, and mainly use for pairing with multi BA, Radius DDM2 (r2), and Piano Forte 9. I'm also intrigued on going balanced for multi BA IEM.
Thanks!
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Can't go wrong with the Leckerton UHA-6s mkii with the ADA4627-1B opamp. Nearly everyone who owns a UERM here also own a uha-6s. That applies to me too. The dac section isn't that good through usb, but it's slightly better with coax. The amp section is the real star!
You may want to have the gain lowered if you mainly use it for IEMs because the stock gain is kind of high for sensitive IEMs.
Alternatively, Nick from Leckerton is supposedly working on an amp-only unit.
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Sure Gunner. Problem would be that I'm far away from where Nick is, so there's that.
Btw, anyone have any experience of RX-mk3? Heard it's rather dynamic sounding.
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You can just send the amp to him if you buy it used, or have him adjust it before he sends it out.
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Hi guys, firstly I want to say I just love it here at Changstar and even though I dont really write here, I read everything you post. Past few months here really helped me find right direction in audio for me, wich would never happen i I stayed on Head-fi.
So, I enjoy my JH-3A combo, but I still want some full size headphones+rig. For me it will be definitely HD800, listened to it dozens times at my friends and had it for few weeks at home. Just best headphone. And I like it even in its stock form.
More problematic is rig, i dont have too much funds, so I was thinking about combination of Wyrd + Modi + Valhalla 2. This combination will be around 650$ with shipping.
Do you think this combination is enough for HD800? Is there something around this price point taht will suit them better?
Thanks :)
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There's some discussion in the Torpedo thread about how it matches with the HD800: http://www.changstar.com/index.php/topic,1756.msg47671/topicseen.html
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For me it will be definitely HD800, listened to it dozens times at my friends and had it for few weeks at home. Just best headphone. And I like it even in its stock form.
More problematic is rig, i dont have too much funds, so I was thinking about combination of Wyrd + Modi + Valhalla 2. This combination will be around 650$ with shipping.
Do you think this combination is enough for HD800? Is there something around this price point taht will suit them better?
Yes. This combination is fantastic and will destroy many $5000 HD800 rigs found on HF. It's exact what I would do with $650.
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For me it will be definitely HD800, listened to it dozens times at my friends and had it for few weeks at home. Just best headphone. And I like it even in its stock form.
More problematic is rig, i dont have too much funds, so I was thinking about combination of Wyrd + Modi + Valhalla 2. This combination will be around 650$ with shipping.
Do you think this combination is enough for HD800? Is there something around this price point taht will suit them better?
Yes. This combination is fantastic and will destroy many $5000 HD800 rigs found on HF. It's exact what I would do with $650.
You da man Marv. I just bought ordered 2 Wyrds and the Val 2!!
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Although I just missed the Massdrop on the HD 600, I can still buy it new local for $300 (looks like Senn has loosened the pricing restrictions on authorized dealers for the HD600 and HD650). I had always said that if the HD600 dropped to $300 or less I would get them as they are a great can to have but I never thought I could justify full retail at $399 for them. However, now that the price has dropped I still see it as $300 less available for another can (and related upstream gear) if I decide to go higher-end. I am not trying to amass a collection, but rather find the best all-rounder for my budget with my AKG Q701 as my go-to can when soundstage is a priority.
I think at this point I will just hold off until next week's NY Audio show. Looks like all the big boys and usual suspects will be there and there will be a dedicated headphone lounge again. Oppo is supposed to be there so I should be able to finally listen to the PM-1 and PM-2. Also, Stereo Exchange will be having their own "show". I think between the two I will be able to listen (or listen again) to most of the cans on my list. Harman/AKG is also listed for the Audio Show. I really hope they bring the K812 and K712. I am so jonesing for something new but I think at this point it makes sense to wait out the next week and then just make the best decision based on what my ears (and my gut) is telling me.
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Alright, so the headphones are upgraded and I took everyone's advice by going with the HE-400i.
My current setup:
HRT MSII --> Asgard 1 --> HE-400i.
What next?
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Scotch?
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Scotch?
Nah, I'm more of a beer kind of guy.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPtMHSYtPc4
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Haha, nice.
Can I assume from this that upgrading my dac/amp wouldn't net me much audible gain?
Or, should I take from this that any mention of alcohol will completely derail a thread?
Either answer is acceptable and understood.
:)p3
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ahoy
I don't often have friends coming from America. Well, actually, I don't now --- but my wife does, and if they have any space after loading up gifts for the family, we might be able to get a thing or two carried here for us.
Whilst my mind is very much taken up with the idea of trying a pair of HD800s, that would really be a little too much for the budget to bear and, by a quirk of fate, they can be had in this country (where such things often cost much more) at a very competitive price anyway. I'm thinking of a pair of HD600 as a stepping stone. Currently, it costs not-a-huge-amount on Amazon.com.
I have little experience of headphones, I'm a recent convert. My current, and first serious, headphone is Audia-technica ATH-AD900. They are so blissfully comfortable that I'd go for a higher-end model in the range, except I seem to see people saying that the one I have is probably the best value for money, and the more expensive ones aren't worth it.
At home, I listen to... well, you know, stuff like The Grateful Dead and Mahler symphonies (and recently, Steve Miller and JJ Cale). I like to pick out the details in stuff, whether it is the melody of a bass guitar, or some tinkly bit in an orchestra. I suffer from high-frequency hearing loss anyway, so the highs must not be lacking, but I like the bass as well. I suppose I don't object to mids! :wheel: Quite possibly what I want is a fairly well balanced sound.
Oh, I also like the colour blue, even when it is marbled, but I don't like too much pressure on my ears.
Can anyone make any suggestion ---or even wild speculation--- as to whether or not HD600s would be good thing for me to buy?
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I kinda took the same route you did - I started with a meh Audio-Technica and slowly made my way up the line. Eventually when I reached the top and wanted something different, I jumped to the Sennheiser ship, and the HD 598 has remained my favorite headphone under $300 for a really long while now.
To my ears the 600s don't have any glaring flaws that set people off, so they're a pretty easy recommendation to make. I can't think of many other headphones that I could recommend at that price point, other than perhaps the AKG Q701/K702 line.
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I listen to some of the same music. Classical symphonies, Grateful Dead, JJ Cale, etc. And more.
That's all good music for the HD600. Well suited. The challenge with the HD600 is having an amp that can drive them so they don't sound limp. Acoustic guitar is one thing that the HD600 needs a good amp for. Wimpy amps make a steel string guitar sound a bit like it has nylon strings. Don't want that with music like JJ Cale. If you've got an amp that give the HD600 the right snap to be able to do acoustic guitar then it's a very nice headphone. Otherwise the HD600 can be a bit on the boring overly smoothed side of things if you have a wimpy amp.
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Given you're just starting out I toobwoukd recommend the HD598. You get roughly 90% of the HD600 performance for like half the price. Use the rest of your money to get an Asgard 2 or to save up for one. The DACPort is nice also IMO.
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Thad, I've tried a friend's AD900 only once but I don't consider HD555/558/595/598 an improvement. They all sounded smeared and blurry to me, and I'm never inclined to listen to them for long.
I'm a big fan, however, of HD600 even from a meh whatever DIY amp like the O2. Everything sounds good to me on it, even harpsichord. And it scales really well, especially with good tubes. I think it's the better investment.
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I think the HD600 is a big jump over the HD5x8 line. Dunno what it is, but the 5x8s just don't sound as clear or powerful to my ears. That said, I think the HD600 is a great headphone! I highly recommend it. If you find them too tight, no problem. Stretch them out over something for a few days and bend the exposed metal of the headband when you extend the cups down. Very light clamp that way (too tight for me stock). If you think they have too much or too muddy of mid-bass, throw some damping in the cups.
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I would choose the HD600 as well, no contest. For the price it's, well...just a really a great all around headphone. It scales tremendously, the tonality is generally excellent (I'd rank the tonality above quite a few much more expensive headphones), and you don't have to drain your savings account to make it sound good. I loved it with Valhalla 2, and could honestly live pretty happily with that combo. As Hans detailed, the clamp isn't an issue if you carefully bend the metal extension portion of the band - I wouldn't worry about that aspect too much.
I've been going back and forth if I should sell my pair. They don't get a lot of head time anymore, but I always enjoy them when I pull them out. Choices...
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I currently have a couple rigs to work with. Funny how much you start buying once you start working and making an actual salary...
Home: Anedio D2 -> Schiit Vali -> HD800
Work: Schiit Wyrd -> GO720 -> Gustard H10 -> Paradox Slants and Enigma
Oh...I've also got a UERM coming in thanks to some help from CEE TEE.
My question here is...where do I go from here? I want to upgrade the Vali but it just sounds so damn good. Can't help but feel I need to start getting into tubes to improve the HD800 even further...
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Thank you all for the the HD600 advice, which I skimmed, and will now go back and read slowly.
I forgot to mention that, amp-wise, I have an ifi iCAN. Depending on the music (and sometimes from track to track) I use both the XBass and the 3D settings. The XBass seems to give the ATH AD900 another dimension in both rock and orchestral, although occasionally it gets overbearing and I have to reach out and switch it to one dot or flat.
I will now go back and read slowly :)p13
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The HD600 is a big jump over the HD598, especially for classical. The HD598 looks good on frequency response graphs. But on listening the mids sound sucked out and lacking and muddy or blurry. That's not a combination that works for classical. So much of the texture of classical music and orchestra sound is in the mids.
The HD600 does classical well. It has enough detail retrieval to give you the texture. It's tonally correct. Better than the K701/K702 which can make french horn sound wonky. And the HD600 is likely a headphone you'll keep as a reference for 20 years. I'll never get rid of mine. Any of the Schiit amps will drive them well. Even the Magni or Vali.
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It's all great advice, and somehow all my unspoken questions got answered, except perhaps one. I think I'll now check out the logistics and, if there's space in that luggage, go for it.
The one unasked and unanswered question... Nobody said, "Whoa! Save the money and buy the HD800 when you can!" Of course, the price difference is pretty huge and I did say I couldn't afford it.
I don't particular want to step onto a perpetual upgrade ladder, and would like to keep the iCAN for a while: it is less than a year old. Maybe a change to the ODAC might be in order and foreseeable. A possibly-affordable experimental spend would be the cheaper knock-off Lehman, Matrix (I think?) but... I also need new desktop monitors, and that needs an HD800-rivalling budget.
Now I'll go back and read it all a third time ;D
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Ahoy,
Right now I have a Yulong DA8 -> Yulong A28 -> Balanced Norne Vanquish Cable -> HD800
I really don't like it, it's too warm and not neutral. I was wondering if anyone had suggestions for a setup I can get for around 1500usd that would be better/more neutral (big emphasis on neutrality, I want this for mixing/mastering). Balanced preferred especially since I already have the Vanquish but whatever's best!
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I would choose the HD600 as well, no contest. For the price it's, well...just a really a great all around headphone. It scales tremendously, the tonality is generally excellent (I'd rank the tonality above quite a few much more expensive headphones), and you don't have to drain your savings account to make it sound good. I loved it with Valhalla 2, and could honestly live pretty happily with that combo. As Hans detailed, the clamp isn't an issue if you carefully bend the metal extension portion of the band - I wouldn't worry about that aspect too much.
I've been going back and forth if I should sell my pair. They don't get a lot of head time anymore, but I always enjoy them when I pull them out. Choices...
Is the only difference between the 600 and the 650 the extra warmth that the 650 exudes? I use the 650 in the office with the Bifrost Uber and the Project Ember amp and SQ was very very good... but the warmth is unmistakeable.
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Ahoy,
Right now I have a Yulong DA8 -> Yulong A28 -> Balanced Norne Vanquish Cable -> HD800
I really don't like it, it's too warm and not neutral. I was wondering if anyone had suggestions for a setup I can get for around 1500usd that would be better/more neutral (big emphasis on neutrality, I want this for mixing/mastering). Balanced preferred especially since I already have the Vanquish but whatever's best!
I would have said get the Ragnarok at the Beta price and whatever is left over for the best DAC you can get. Maybe try the Modi+Vali or uberBifrost+valhalla 2.
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Is the only difference between the 600 and the 650 the extra warmth that the 650 exudes? I use the 650 in the office with the Bifrost Uber and the Project Ember amp and SQ was very very good... but the warmth is unmistakeable.
The HD650 has a bit more bass but it's minimal compared to the treble difference between the two. The 600 has a more level and extended treble whereas the 650 is a bit more laid back, some would say "rolled-off". The 600 is still a warm headphone but I much prefer it to the 650 due to the treble clarity.
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s the only difference between the 600 and the 650 the extra warmth that the 650 exudes? I use the 650 in the office with the Bifrost Uber and the Project Ember amp and SQ was very very good... but the warmth is unmistakeable.
The HD650 has a bit more bass but it's minimal compared to the treble difference between the two. The 600 has a more level and extended treble whereas the 650 is a bit more laid back, some would say "rolled-off". The 600 is still a warm headphone but I much prefer it to the 650 due to the treble clarity.
Without being able to mention any source in particular, I had, in general browsing, got the impression that the 600 would be the one for me, so I had not included the 650 option in my request for advice. That might have been a mistake, but Thujone's post is reassuring --- especially as it comes just after I placed the order p:0. "Treble clarity" is very much my thing, and if I need extra warmth, or a thumping bass session, the ifi iCAN's XBass will oblige.
So, Amazon. com is winging an HD600 to my friend-in-law in Virginia, and charging my UK bank account UK£271.64. It should be here in a couple of weeks.
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Ahoy,
Right now I have a Yulong DA8 -> Yulong A28 -> Balanced Norne Vanquish Cable -> HD800
I really don't like it, it's too warm and not neutral. I was wondering if anyone had suggestions for a setup I can get for around 1500usd that would be better/more neutral (big emphasis on neutrality, I want this for mixing/mastering). Balanced preferred especially since I already have the Vanquish but whatever's best!
I would have said get the Ragnarok at the Beta price and whatever is left over for the best DAC you can get. Maybe try the Modi+Vali or uberBifrost+valhalla 2.
Thanks. Maybe I'll see if someone puts a Ragnarok up for sale on HF after it's released. Do you think the valhalla 2 is neutral despite being a tube amp? Also, looking at Schiit's site, with a budget of 1500 why not get the Mjolnir and Gugnir?
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Ahoy,
Right now I have a Yulong DA8 -> Yulong A28 -> Balanced Norne Vanquish Cable -> HD800
I really don't like it, it's too warm and not neutral. I was wondering if anyone had suggestions for a setup I can get for around 1500usd that would be better/more neutral (big emphasis on neutrality, I want this for mixing/mastering). Balanced preferred especially since I already have the Vanquish but whatever's best!
I would have said get the Ragnarok at the Beta price and whatever is left over for the best DAC you can get. Maybe try the Modi+Vali or uberBifrost+valhalla 2.
Thanks. Maybe I'll see if someone puts a Ragnarok up for sale on HF after it's released. Do you think the valhalla 2 is neutral despite being a tube amp? Also, looking at Schiit's site, with a budget of 1500 why not get the Mjolnir and Gugnir?
Tube doesn't mean anything. Tubes can sound analytical and sterile too. I liked the Valhalla I heard and don't like the Yulongs. It's been awhile ago and it was something of a prototype so I'd trust others who have heard it more. I'd say it's warmer like maybe between the HD600/650 but not like the stock HE500 or Oppo PM1 original pads. Don't think its compressed or veiled or muddy sounding. That's if memory serves me right on that.
For me, I'd rather skip the Mojo and Ganja and go straight to the Rag+??.
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Ahoy,
Right now I have a Yulong DA8 -> Yulong A28 -> Balanced Norne Vanquish Cable -> HD800
I really don't like it, it's too warm and not neutral. I was wondering if anyone had suggestions for a setup I can get for around 1500usd that would be better/more neutral (big emphasis on neutrality, I want this for mixing/mastering). Balanced preferred especially since I already have the Vanquish but whatever's best!
I would have said get the Ragnarok at the Beta price and whatever is left over for the best DAC you can get. Maybe try the Modi+Vali or uberBifrost+valhalla 2.
Thanks. Maybe I'll see if someone puts a Ragnarok up for sale on HF after it's released. Do you think the valhalla 2 is neutral despite being a tube amp? Also, looking at Schiit's site, with a budget of 1500 why not get the Mjolnir and Gugnir?
Tube doesn't mean anything. Tubes can sound analytical and sterile too. I liked the Valhalla I heard and don't like the Yulongs. It's been awhile ago and it was something of a prototype so I'd trust others who have heard it more. I'd say it's warmer like maybe between the HD600/650 but not like the stock HE500 or Oppo PM1 original pads. Don't think its compressed or veiled or muddy sounding. That's if memory serves me right on that.
For me, I'd rather skip the Mojo and Ganja and go straight to the Rag+??.
Got it. Thanks again. Rag definitely holding the top spot for me.
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Hi guys ! :)p5
Lee Perry from Headfi is selling this DAC/AMP : http://www.head-fi.org/t/736188/fs-ft-230v-audio-gd-nfb-11-2014
I'm currently owning a Burson HA 160DS, will his DAC be an upgrade ?
Specs aren't shown the same way so it's hard to me to compare them.
ew I sound really noobie facepalm
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Gawd, Lee Perry. Haven't seen that name in ages.
I doubt it, I'm not a fan of most Audio GD stuff especially lower tier gear. I also wouldn't be surprised if he ha tinkered around inside with it. I'd pass IMHO.
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Okay, I'm not surprised, I've done a lot of business with him so I know him pretty well.
Thanks a lot for the advice ! :)p5
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Okay, I'm not surprised, I've done a lot of business with him so I know him pretty well.
Thanks a lot for the advice !
Well that's good, glad to hear it! I don't mean to disparage him at all, never had a problem with him personally. I just know he does like to tinker or he did at one time. He's selling it for a friend it seems.
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I never had problem with him too, when I said "I'm not surprised" I was refering to this :
I also wouldn't be surprised if he ha tinkered around inside with it.
LeePerry got very good selling skills, he had me nearly convinced (not sure if this sentence is english xD) ;D
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can you edit your post? just put "oops - can mod delete this?"
it may or not be deleted. there are about a dozen active mods here. doesn't mean they will bother or not. this place is pretty peaceful other than the occasional arguments about burgers.
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Done ! Thank you ! p;)
Well burger is a serious business ! :boom:
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Well burger is a serious business ! :boom:
Not at Five Guys. Oh...SNAP!! :-DD :)p13
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^ most overhyped burger IMO *:p
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So do you prefer home made hamburgers or hamburgers according to recipes of hospitality businesses?
A decent hamburger should at leas weigh 50 to 75 grammes and preferably weigh between 100 and 150 grammes of pure beefy goodness.
Burgers...
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I've been making my own burgers all season. Ground beef or bison, caramalized onions, fried mushrooms (usually tossed in near the end with the onions), pepper, salt, a touch of cumin, a few flecks of miscellaneous herbs from the garden, maybe chopped up bacon, some breadcrumbs, egg, and some shredded zucchini.
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I've been making my own burgers all season. Ground beef or bison, caramalized onions, fried mushrooms (usually tossed in near the end with the onions), pepper, salt, a touch of cumin, a few flecks of miscellaneous herbs from the garden, maybe chopped up bacon, some breadcrumbs, egg, and some shredded zucchini.
Personally I've never been a fan of breadcrumbs and egg as binder in a burger. Comes out too meatloafy for me and neuters the flavor of the meat a bit. If I were to do it, I'd take the egg out and replace it with a fried egg on top with a runny yolk. Probably yank out the zucchini and just grill a few strip and lay it under the burger over the bottom bun. Grilling will bring out more of that zucchini flavor and keeping it whole brings a texture I like personally. Maybe replace the shredded zucchini with carrots to keep the texture crunch if that's what you are after in the patty, plus it would add a little sweetness. If you like cheese, try adding a slice of Sargento Muenster.
Woohoo. All purpose thread!!
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ground chuck + brisket + short rib burgers, no binders, loosely packed, cooked in clarified butter, salt + pepper!
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This thread seems to be getting very general of late, so I thought I might not be out-of-line to seek some advice about modding my Q701s. There's a protective plastic "grill" of sorts in front of the driver and I am thinking of removing it to see if it will affect the sound: my thinking being that the fewer the obstructions between the ear of the listener and the surface of the diaphragm the better. However, as this would be a non-reversible procedure, I'd like to ask you (much) more experienced folks if there is any reason I should not do this (aside from an increased risk of driver damage), so speak now or forever hold your peace, cause my choppin' hand is getting itchy!
See attached picture for a graphical representation of the proposed procedure.
(http://i.imgur.com/h7loqSS.jpg)
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This thread seems to be getting very general of late, so I thought I might not be out-of-line to seek some advice about modding my Q701s. There's a protective plastic "grill" of sorts in front of the driver and I am thinking of removing it to see if it will affect the sound: my thinking being that the fewer the obstructions between the ear of the listener and the surface of the diaphragm the better. However, as this would be a non-reversible procedure, I'd like to ask you (much) more experienced folks if there is any reason I should not do this (aside from an increased risk of driver damage), so speak now or forever hold your peace, cause my choppin' hand is getting itchy!
See attached picture for a graphical representation of the proposed procedure.
(http://i.imgur.com/h7loqSS.jpg)
You are right, that in general changing the grill shape can effect sound depending on what designs we are talking about. You need look no further than to Sennheiser's own research and implementation of this fact in the 558 and 598. I think I was the first one to point this out for the 558/598 on H-fi a few years ago when I was modding all my headphones. Here's a pic:
(http://www.headfonia.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/sennheiser_hd558_598_05.jpg)
Point is, if both designs sounded the same, a corporation as big as Sennheiser wouldn't have gone to the trouble of designing and producing a different grill for the 598 as it would go unseen by the end user. So yes, their is actual direct and anecdotal evidence that changing the grill design can make a difference in audible performance.
One reason you might not want to do it is perhaps the driver could be tuned to the acoustic impedance or damping provided by the grill design and if you remove it perhaps you will dislike the resulting sound more? IME, potential issues could be a sharper or tizzier treble and reduced bass body. I don't know the 701 driver that well so I'm just guessing. Or it could just sound more transparent, airy and freer sounding. In the 701's pictured, it seems to me the grill is just there to protect the driver from physical contact with the ear is my guess.
Keep us posted.
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Keep us posted.
Thanks for the input, I think I'll go ahead with it. After all, if I dislike the results that much, it'll just give me one more reason to spring for the hd800!
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I've been making my own burgers all season. Ground beef or bison, caramalized onions, fried mushrooms (usually tossed in near the end with the onions), pepper, salt, a touch of cumin, a few flecks of miscellaneous herbs from the garden, maybe chopped up bacon, some breadcrumbs, egg, and some shredded zucchini.
Personally I've never been a fan of breadcrumbs and egg as binder in a burger. Comes out too meatloafy for me and neuters the flavor of the meat a bit. If I were to do it, I'd take the egg out and replace it with a fried egg on top with a runny yolk. Probably yank out the zucchini and just grill a few strip and lay it under the burger over the bottom bun. Grilling will bring out more of that zucchini flavor and keeping it whole brings a texture I like personally. Maybe replace the shredded zucchini with carrots to keep the texture crunch if that's what you are after in the patty, plus it would add a little sweetness. If you like cheese, try adding a slice of Sargento Muenster.
Woohoo. All purpose thread!!
Yeah gotta be careful with how much egg/breadcrumb of course. I try to be very sparing with it. Too much crumb (or sometimes I'll use a bit of oatmeal flour) isn't too bad, but too much egg is weird. I never measure, but I think I use maybe a quarter cup per 2 lbs of meat. Maybe half an egg. Or sometimes I forget those entirely so just don't have any.
What do you use for binder?
I've tried egg on top but it isn't for me. I like it on corned beef though, but that's not exactly a bbq thing.
The zucchini is just for some moistness and light texture, not crunch. Again, used very sparingly. (I have a bad habit of getting distracted from the grill... so uh, the extra moisture is a good thing sometimes). I've actually never tried carrot; will try to remember that for next time. Unfortunately bbq season is practically done now.
Grilled zucchini is fantastic in a garlic cheese bread though. Mix in along with the aforementioned caramalized onions and mushrooms, delicious.
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What do you use for binder?
I use meat. ;D
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reduced bass body
You hit the nail right on the head. Damn. The effect (in regards to the bass) is small but noticeable to me. The Q701 is bass shy to begin with, a trait I had recently ameliorated via the "bass port mod", and so any detraction in low frequency performance is quite keenly felt. Prior to this mod I was satisfied with the bass (thanks to the aforementioned "bass port mod"), and though I still am, as it is still in my opinion 'better' than it was stock, the removal of the grills has taken away just a little bit of the punch that was there before. Bass lines fade a little into the background, kick drums kick just a tad softer, etc. In short, would not recommend.
All claims made in this paragraph are subject to change without notice.
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Found the Gungnir + Mjolnir for 1k. Can anyone think of a better deal for the HD800 in the price range?
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What do you use for binder?
I use meat. ;D
Meat is so meaty that it enhances meat. Hamburgers...
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Speaking of meat, any of you guys here have a home smoker? I've never tried, but I hear good things...
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Indoor grilling and smoking of ingredients can be very tasty indeed.
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I just got an indoor combo smoker/pressure cooker. Only used it once so far. Not too bad, did the job. Had a real nice smoke ring on the outside and only needs 2-3 chips. Problem is it's not big enough really. Also it tends to make the tendon around ribs rubbery due to pressure cooking/steam so next time I'm going to preprep the ribs to render down the tendon a bit first. Also, it will leave your kitchen with a smokey smell. It's not a chimney of smoke, just hint of smell due to the pressure relief which I don't mind. Having the kitchen smell like a real BBQ joint for a day or two is a good thing to me.
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I just got an indoor combo smoker/pressure cooker. Only used it once so far. Not too bad, did the job. Had a real nice smoke ring on the outside and only needs 2-3 chips. Problem is it's not big enough really. Also it tends to make the tendon around ribs rubbery due to pressure cooking/steam so next time I'm going to preprep the ribs to render down the tendon a bit first. Also, it will leave your kitchen with a smokey smell. It's not a chimney of smoke, just hint of smell due to the pressure relief which I don't mind. Having the kitchen smell like a real BBQ joint for a day or two is a good thing to me.
I consider you a lucky man.
I have pans, including a wok but they to their jobs admirably.
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I consider you a lucky man.
I have pans, including a wok but they to their jobs admirably.
Heh, being part asian, I know most asian kitchens survive solely with just a wok, cleaver and a pair of long chopsticks. That's it.
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My Hindu roots determine many of my favourite flavours p;) I am half Hindu.
I might be a "lazy" chef at home but when I cook the kitchen is mine. I need my wok.
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My Hindu roots determine many of my favourite flavours p;) I am half Hindu.
I might be a "lazy" chef at home but when I cook the kitchen is mine. I need my wok.
Bet you are well stocked with all the spices then, especially turmeric. That is a staple in a Hindu kitchen,
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Speaking of tumeric, great drink for colds.
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I like ladies with turmeric on their faces! :-DD
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My Hindu roots determine many of my favourite flavours p;) I am half Hindu.
I might be a "lazy" chef at home but when I cook the kitchen is mine. I need my wok.
Bet you are well stocked with all the spices then, especially turmeric. That is a staple in a Hindu kitchen,
Well I grew up with Surinam (Hindu/African/Chinese/Indian etcetera) cuisine, Dutch cuisine and European cuisine. I like both basic and spicy flavours so I always have black pepper, salt, seasonal peppers, masala, sambal, some powders, basil, parsly, garlic, onion and whatever smells good. I grew up with kitchens that invited your nose first. Smell is so underrated in Western cuisine sometimes, just scandalous facepalm
Turmeric, I will check out more Hindu spices because I want to improve my cooking skills anyway. Thanks ahoy
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My Hindu roots determine many of my favourite flavours p;) I am half Hindu.
I might be a "lazy" chef at home but when I cook the kitchen is mine. I need my wok.
Bet you are well stocked with all the spices then, especially turmeric. That is a staple in a Hindu kitchen,
Well I grew up with Surinam (Hindu/African/Chinese/Indian etcetera) cuisine, Dutch cuisine and European cuisine. I like both basic and spicy flavours so I always have black pepper, salt, seasonal peppers, masala, sambal, some powders, basil, parsly, garlic, onion and whatever smells good. I grew up with kitchens that invited your nose first. Smell is so underrated in Western cuisine sometimes, just scandalous facepalm
Turmeric, I will check out more Hindu spices because I want to improve my cooking skills anyway. Thanks ahoy
Some home-grown advice (FWIW). Always try to make your own spices if you can.
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Hello,
Sorry to come barging in here with my questions, but if I remember correctly from a long time ago, this is what that thread is for :).
I have a Sansa Clip+, and a Leckerton UHA-6mk2. I am going to use it as a portable set-up with my HD650 and Fischer DBA002. Would it be better to use the UHA-6 as an amp (so Clip -> Leckerton -> headphone), or would that be 'gain staging' and actually degrade the sound? If it improves the sound, what volume's would I set both at?
And is it true that the ATH-M50 doesn't benefit from an amp?
That are my three questions, any help is always appreciated, have a great day :)p7
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Hello,
Sorry to come barging in here with my questions, but if I remember correctly from a long time ago, this is what that thread is for :).
I have a Sansa Clip+, and a Leckerton UHA-6mk2. I am going to use it as a portable set-up with my HD650 and Fischer DBA002. Would it be better to use the UHA-6 as an amp (so Clip -> Leckerton -> headphone), or would that be 'gain staging' and actually degrade the sound? If it improves the sound, what volume's would I set both at?
And is it true that the ATH-M50 doesn't benefit from an amp?
That are my three questions, any help is always appreciated, have a great day :)p7
1-I believe max the Clip > Leckerton should not be an issue. You can play around with it to see if their is a balance between the two you prefer without concern. In your chain, the only AQ limitation will be the quality of output from the Clip, but there will be no technical issues using it as a source.
2-No it's not true. The M50 was one of my first phones and had it a long time. I never prefered it driven straight from a Clip+versus amped. The slam and dynamics are just better and you might a get a flatter perceived FR as a result keeping the volume lower with better drive quality. There's a lot of reasons people say that about the M50. Point of reference, bias, low volume listening, etc.
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Thanks, I tried it and that works great. I like the sound best with the UHA-6 @ 12o'clock (half open, gain low), and use the clip as the volume control (which is @ 70-80%). ATH-M50 sounds better from the Leckerton aswel!
I have just discovered Qobuz, streaming CD-quality Flacs (they have a free trial). Would it be worth it to buy the Apple Camera USB kit, so I can use the UHA-6 DAC instead of my iPhone's DAC? I read that the DAC in the UHA-6 isn't so great.
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I wouldn't get a CCK. As you said, the UHA-6S DAC isn't highly regarded, and then the CCK would add bulk.
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Geek Out is the best source I've heard for the money and size so far. Keep it below the 1000 as a source only.
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Hi everybody, I've been reading you for a while, and since I have this dilema, decided to join. :)
First of all, I know there are similar PortaPro vs KSC75 threads, but I couldn't find what interests me in none of them (or just some chunks of information). Anyway, here's my problem.
Since I want to buy another headphones that I can produce and mix music on until I buy studio monitors (I screwed my Sennheiser HD 215, and they are closed too, that's another minus), I found KOSS headphones as a perfect solution. I've read a lot of great reviews for both models, but mostly about comfort, people rarely speak about their sound difference. I can't decide between those two, so here are the questions I have:
1. Which one has better dynamics? Better feel of instruments separated, exactly. Which one actually glues sound less and produce more realistic sound?
2. Which one has better detailed sound? I've seen some frequency charts, and I could see that KSC 75 has higher response on highs, but which one provides more flat sound (even tho I know they aren't flat at all), neutral and realistic sound? On which model you can hear more "flaws" in songs?
3. Titanium coating? What difference it makes? Is it good or bad?
You can also recommend me some other KOSS headphones, in that price range of course, I would especially like to hear about KSC35(!) but please choose one of those 2 too, because they are most available to me at the moment.
Thank you in advance! :)
P.S. Please don't recommend more expensive models, I don't plan to invest that much for this purpose. Cheers!
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I would love to help you out, but unfortunately I can only speak for the KSC75 since I haven't heard the PortaPros. FWIW, I feel the KSC75 is a good value headphone and very competitive with cans many times it's price. It is however a little U-shapped (not too horribly so). It offers a very good mid-range IMO.
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I would love to help you out, but unfortunately I can only speak for the KSC75 since I haven't heard the PortaPros. FWIW, I feel the KSC75 is a good value headphone and very competitive with cans many times it's price. It is however a little U-shapped (not too horribly so). It offers a very good mid-range IMO.
Thank you, this is quite useful information, since I've never really heard any of them. I did expect U shape, but hearing this is good.
They don't have to be perfect, because, at the end I will touch them (songs) in studio on the monitors. Since I don't have mine, I do the pre-mix on Sennheiser HD 215, which I love for listening to music, and they have pretty good midrange. However, they are closed and they tend to "glue" sound. Frequencies aren't the biggest problem on them, it's the dynamics/levels, and that drives me crazy.
I started collecting money for my first studio monitors, and in the meantime I wan't to have some semi-open headphones that I can do better pre-mix on them, or use back to back with my HD215 (which I have to fix, sigh). My budget is not very big (because of monitors that I'm saving money for) and from all the information I gained, KOSS headphones seam like the best solution, not just because of money, but because of the quality they produce too.
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You should look into the Superlux models at around $30 (PortaPro is usually $39), Solderdude has a modding guide to fix most of their problems and they are a lot closer to a studio can than the KOSS on-ears. That said, the PortaPro stock is a little too bassy, both have similar sound characteristics but I prefer the PortaPro with a thicker foam to reduce the bass output, the midrange is fantastic and a little more transparent to my ears, however, the KSC75 has a wider left-right image due to the distance to the ears thanks to the clip-ons.
The titanium coating seems to produce a more even treble response at the expense of more severe ringing at around 4 KHz.
For future reference, if you want better flatness and transparency, I would seriously look into saving to get a T50RP + modding materials (~$130), a properly modded T50RP is better suited for studio work and hard to beat in value.
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If you get either of the clip ons, headband mod them or else the cable will quickly wear out. My special lady killed two, each after the same 4.5 months, but the new one I bought her and headbanded is still going strong.
I can't comment on the differences between them because it's been too long since I've heard any besides KSC75.
Best luck!
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You should look into the Superlux models at around $30 (PortaPro is usually $39), Solderdude has a modding guide to fix most of their problems and they are a lot closer to a studio can than the KOSS on-ears. That said, the PortaPro stock is a little too bassy, both have similar sound characteristics but I prefer the PortaPro with a thicker foam to reduce the bass output, the midrange is fantastic and a little more transparent to my ears, however, the KSC75 has a wider left-right image due to the distance to the ears thanks to the clip-ons.
The titanium coating seems to produce a more even treble response at the expense of more severe ringing at around 4 KHz.
For future reference, if you want better flatness and transparency, I would seriously look into saving to get a T50RP + modding materials (~$130), a properly modded T50RP is better suited for studio work and hard to beat in value.
Searched a bit about Superlux, but it seems that they are pretty U shaped, really lack a solid mid, and I'm not really into modding headphones. :/ Have never done it before. But will consider them.
So, Portapro has better mids, but KSC75 react better on that 4k problematic area? On which one you can better hear elements separated from other elements? (not just bottom, but overal, more space between them?)
If you get either of the clip ons, headband mod them or else the cable will quickly wear out. My special lady killed two, each after the same 4.5 months, but the new one I bought her and headbanded is still going strong.
I can't comment on the differences between them because it's been too long since I've heard any besides KSC75.
Best luck!
Will have that on mind! Thanks!
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I actually found that after burning them, mids pop up actually
The mids are a bit recesed at first but after 200-300 hours it came a bit forward and you don't miss it anymore, unless you like very forward mids in that case you don't like it. They are very well balanced after the burn in, very detailed, with clarity and natural.
Sooooo... If anyone is reading this. Superlux HD668B vs KOSS PortaPro vs KOSS KSC75? :D
Edit: I even more can't decide right now. KOSS has better mid range, but every other characteristic that I'm searching for is better on Superlux
KOSS KSC 75
Not flat, but more flat than Superlux
(http://en.goldenears.net/en/files/attach/images/254/256/009/f5d464912f1d48b98a3eb8583364004e.png)
Overal
(http://en.goldenears.net/en/files/attach/images/254/256/009/53c9dfd5495c623fc53df08e3c8130db.PNG)
Superlux
Not that flat (that 5k+ bump really worries me)
(http://en.goldenears.net/en/files/attach/images/254/529/014/645957a9cbabafc72c087d31bde1ef0b.png)
But great overal
(http://en.goldenears.net/en/files/attach/images/254/529/014/7c6c179119b6530be4bab28686df3f6d.PNG)
Oh, god, why can't I decide easily once in my life?!
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Easy: Get the KSC75. They are cheaper and sound plenty good (proly better than the HD 215s).
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Pirates, I seek your advice. Looking to get beater IEMs to replace my Carbo Tenores (sold them to a friend who desperately needed IEMs); Vsonic VSD3/S or Havi B3 Pro-1 / Pro-2?
I really thought the sound of the Carbo Tenores was quite competent, but the ergonomics were lacking. The Vsonics have that Westone/Shure style that I like. What do you guys think?
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Pirates, I seek your advice. Looking to get beater IEMs to replace my Carbo Tenores (sold them to a friend who desperately needed IEMs); Vsonic VSD3/S or Havi B3 Pro-1 / Pro-2?
I really thought the sound of the Carbo Tenores was quite competent, but the ergonomics were lacking. The Vsonics have that Westone/Shure style that I like. What do you guys think?
Nothing beats the GR07 for ergonomics. That VSD3 doesn't look that comfortable to me. It's a Shure design with sharp angles that may or may not bother you depending on fit. If your ear canal can handle them, I don't find anything more comfy that small deep insertion IEMs myself.
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Anyone know of a good CD rack, preferably expandable but not ugly?
I have a full 1000 disc rack that's been discontinued so it would be hard to find one to match, but that hasn't stopped my buying another thousand discs, now sitting in boxes and taking up space on bookshelves.
Sure, I'll get with this century and rip them to flac in the coming years. Meanwhile, I'd like to be able to walk round my bedroom less cautiously.
I'be considered a 2400 CD Boltz rack ($900), but it's kind of ugly.
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Easy: Get the KSC75. They are cheaper and sound plenty good (proly better than the HD 215s).
It's tough for me to admit, but they probably do. They are still even on my mind with Superlux tho.
Soooo, more on Superlux HD668B vs KOSS PortaPro/KSC75? Details and charts listed on the previous page.
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Easy: Get the KSC75. They are cheaper and sound plenty good (proly better than the HD 215s).
It's tough for me to admit, but they probably do. They are still even on my mind with Superlux tho.
Soooo, more on Superlux HD668B vs KOSS PortaPro/KSC75? Details and charts listed on the previous page.
My personal advice, buy two KSC75s, keep one stock and modify the other one for testing. The quarter modification alone makes quite the difference.
I rarely buy two of one headphone, the KSC75 is worth it. Superlux is not bad though, I just have AKGs already...
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Easy: Get the KSC75. They are cheaper and sound plenty good (proly better than the HD 215s).
It's tough for me to admit, but they probably do. They are still even on my mind with Superlux tho.
Soooo, more on Superlux HD668B vs KOSS PortaPro/KSC75? Details and charts listed on the previous page.
My personal advice, buy two KSC75s, keep one stock and modify the other one for testing. The quarter modification alone makes quite the difference.
I rarely buy two of one headphone, the KSC75 is worth it. Superlux is not bad though, I just have AKGs already...
I have no doubt's that they are very good. I will have them sooner or later, I promised to myself to buy both, PortaPro and KSC75 sometime in the future. :D
What AKG do you have? 240? Do you produce/mix music on them? What you find better for it between KSC75 and AKG?
Also, based on first 2 questions I asked, how do you compare them?
1. Which one has better dynamics? Better feel of instruments separated, exactly. Which one actually glues sound less and produce more realistic sound?
2. Which one has better detailed sound? I've seen some frequency charts, and I could see that KSC 75 has higher response on highs, but which one provides more flat sound (even tho I know they aren't flat at all), neutral and realistic sound? On which model you can hear more "flaws" in songs?
Edit: If you mix on them, from which one sound translates better to speakers?
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I have the K500, a vintage headphone nowadays.
The K240-series is pretty good too, amplification makes an important difference though. For closed headphones I have the DT250-250.
The K500 simply sounds right for me. The KSC75 sounds fun from every other source, amplified or not. I am a music listener and sometimes I crave details with my K500. The K500 is a pleasant detail monster that makes you notice little things you do not notice with fun-sounding consumer headphones.
The measurements of the K500, KSC75 and DT250-250 are present on the website, check them out.
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Will check it.
There is something that worries me about Superlux HD668B that I found i 2 reviews, and we saw that 5k+bump (take a note that a first one is some basshead that was complaining about no "extreme bass", oh god)
these sounded good in many ways, with the exception of the highs, which I found to be harsh. The killer for me, however, was not the highs themselves, but the ear-stabbing pain those highs induced very quickly (within a minute). This wasn't fatigue - this was pain.
2nd
Get the ugly part out of the way --> These boys are unforgiving and bright and WILL show up your crappy music systems. If the recording was brightly mastered/crap, if your source is bad, if your cables are bright (esp. pure silver and silver plated stuff), if your amp/dac setup is too revealing THEN these babies are RUTHLESS. They will show up the brightness and amplify the crap out of the brightness to make ears bleed.
there was a comment bellow
Bright cans??? Bright cables, bright cards??? What are you talking about, man? HD668B are analytical, not bright. I use these on my Motorola Bravo. Though my bravo's right channel is a bit louder than the left and output is a little crappy, HD668B performs great and makes me forget about these disadvantages of the source. Of course, I admit that on Audigy 2 sound is much better. But anyway these sound great with my Bravo, with my PC, with the cheap, unbranded player I own.
It's probably listening at high volumes, since they aren't bass boosted at all. I mean, these are only two reviews that I found that on. Even if they are bright, i don't think they are that much to produce pain on average volume. My Sennheisers HD215are bright and they are unpleasant at really high volumes because they are not bass boosted. It's kinda logical.
Anybody who tested them?
Edit: 1st one wrote that other models in the store sounded the same. I actually have read, but forgot, that highs smoothes after burning them... finally found something. This might be the answer.
When I first put them on on I though that the highs will blow my head off. My ears got tired after 10 - 15 minutes. I though I would throw them out of the window. But having read some good reviews and advices regarding burning in the headphones I gave them a try. And now I must say WOOOOW.
After 8 - 10 hours of burning in (I left them plugged in to the computer, I put there some bass and treble heavy DnB and left for work). Whn i returned back, the highs became much softer, clear and completely bearable, and the bass was much fuller and deeper. I owned Senheiser HD 280 Pro and I have to say Superluxes are better. After proper burn in, when compared to HD 280s they have wider stereo range and more balanced overall sound. HD280s were more forward sounding, had worst mid frequencies and no full, deep bass.
I should also mention that I don't have an amp.
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Yes, they are bright, however, that kind of behavior can be fixed with the proper materials (a piece of 2-3mm thick felt in front of the drivers). The 681 Evo have such a piece of felt to reduce the treble energy, turning it into a dark can, Solderdude (http://diyaudioheaven.wordpress.com/headphones/measurements/brands-st-x/) found a pair of replacement pads that reduce the bass energy a good 10 dB, turning it into a considerably flatter pair.
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Yes, they are bright, however, that kind of behavior can be fixed with the proper materials (a piece of 2-3mm thick felt in front of the drivers). The 681 Evo have such a piece of felt to reduce the treble energy, turning it into a dark can, Solderdude (http://diyaudioheaven.wordpress.com/headphones/measurements/brands-st-x/) found a pair of replacement pads that reduce the bass energy a good 10 dB, turning it into a considerably flatter pair.
Awesome. Can eq-ing ruin the details? If I lower it for several dbs?
Also, most important. Will not putting in an amp create THAT much of lack in sound quality (as some people on head-fi are saying) or not? I know sound will be less loud, but in terms of details etc? Somebody said it really affects highs.
God I love this forum. It's so alive, unlike many. <3
P.S. Might sound like a hypochondriac haha but, can high freq boost on them combined with no amp cause some hearing damage?
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A good EQ should not change the sound for the worse, however, with the boosted highs come an increase perception of details and ambiance, so yes, in a way you will percieve less of that, but they should sound more natural and properly balanced with the rest of the spectrum when properly EQ'd. On amping, I couldn't say, depends on a lot of factors, however, 56 ohms is not a lot, they should play loud enough from just about any source.
Hearing damage comes from a high SPL, so watch your volume and rest your ears once in a while.
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A good EQ should not change the sound for the worse, however, with the boosted highs come an increase perception of details and ambiance, so yes, in a way you will percieve less of that, but they should sound more natural and properly balanced with the rest of the spectrum when properly EQ'd. On amping, I couldn't say, depends on a lot of factors, however, 56 ohms is not a lot, they should play loud enough from just about any source.
Hearing damage comes from a high SPL, so watch your volume and rest your ears once in a while.
Perfect answer. Thank you.
I once put my Sennheiser HD 215 on a decent soundcard, and I was schocked how there wasn't any (maybe a little bit, but very little) quality difference. Also, HD280 pro I got confirmed that there is no big difference when they are amped.
Anyway, I recognise that I will get little bit less quality, but I think it wont be drastic.
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Just stumbled upon this site and I am a newbie when it comes to these high end headphones. I recently decided it was time to upgrade from my Sennheiser HD 239 that I got for 40$ off ebay. I have been doing some research and have found that I like the Beredynamic DT 990 but is really out of my budget. I am looking to spend about 500$ in total. So I want to know if there is any alternatives to the DT990 that have the same if not better specs for a cheaper price. I also heard that I needed an amp to power these things and I have stummbled upon This (http://www.leckertonaudio.com/products/uha-6s-mkii/). Will this be strong enough to power my headphone? Is there a more budget friendly amp that is still portable? I saw This (http://www.head-fi.org/products/fiio-e11) but it seems to get mixed reviews. Does the headphone come with all the cables that I need or are there any specific cables that I will need? Are they expensive or relatively cheap compared to my budget? Oh forgot to mention that I enjoy electronic music, such as dubstep, chillwave and drum and bass as well as metal and rock (see Mastodon). Thanks in advance to anyone that helps out!
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As I understand it, DT990 is pretty bassy and and has fairly exaggerated treble. I think some of the Superlux headphones fit that category.
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Are you in the US? The dt990/250 pro goes for $178.56 used, on Amazon warehouse. That frees up money for perhaps a modi + wyrd + vali? If the treble gets to be too much, you can EQ it down a bit.
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Just stumbled upon this site and I am a newbie when it comes to these high end headphones. I recently decided it was time to upgrade from my Sennheiser HD 239 that I got for 40$ off ebay. I have been doing some research and have found that I like the Beredynamic DT 990 but is really out of my budget. I am looking to spend about 500$ in total. So I want to know if there is any alternatives to the DT990 that have the same if not better specs for a cheaper price. I also heard that I needed an amp to power these things and I have stummbled upon This (http://www.leckertonaudio.com/products/uha-6s-mkii/). Will this be strong enough to power my headphone? Is there a more budget friendly amp that is still portable? I saw This (http://www.head-fi.org/products/fiio-e11) but it seems to get mixed reviews. Does the headphone come with all the cables that I need or are there any specific cables that I will need? Are they expensive or relatively cheap compared to my budget? Oh forgot to mention that I enjoy electronic music, such as dubstep, chillwave and drum and bass as well as metal and rock (see Mastodon). Thanks in advance to anyone that helps out!
You could pick up an HE-400 pretty cheap these days. Might be a good fit, though I'm basing this off of reputation. I haven't heard them myself.
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That's also an option, though I find the he-400's treble and sucked out mids more problematic than the dt990's treble.
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geek out 450 + HD650. Portable and GREAT synergy.
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Are you in the US? The dt990/250 pro goes for $178.56 used, on Amazon warehouse. That frees up money for perhaps a modi + wyrd + vali? If the treble gets to be too much, you can EQ it down a bit.
I am in the us. Is the difference.between the 250 and 600 ohm worth the value? Also is the amazon warehouse really that reliable? I feelfeel like it is a gamble.
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geek out 450 + HD650. Portable and GREAT synergy.
Have they fixed the volume problems yet?
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geek out 450 + HD650. Portable and GREAT synergy.
Have they fixed the volume problems yet?
Yup, new firmware. Volume is controlled on the player side among other little enhancements.
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Good!, can you also tell me what's not-so-great about the 1W version?
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the 1000, and the 720 to a lesser extent, skew toward sounding a little more lush and a little bassier. Especially since you're considering bassy headphones, I'd strongly encourage you to consider the more neutral 450.
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To help a little for the first time. DT990 are great, used them once at friend's studio. However, they have boosted bass. There is one trick tho (that's what I do because HD215 glue sound horribly) to mix the whole song without sub and then mix sub last.
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I think I made my mind, I'm 90% sure about buying Superlux HD668b, but I'm so confused about this they need amp/they don't need amp thing.
Since they are 56ohm, (and I have Sennheiser HD 215 that are 32ohm, that work pretty good on laptop), from what I understood that's not big at all, but people are still recommanding an amp. On the other, some guy said he used 80ohm headphones without an amp for years and didn't need it. Someone also said on AKG K240 topic that that's the nominal impedance and that the real one (or whatever he said it's called) is about 140, but third dude said that it's only important that SPL is not beyond 100, and they are (HD668b) 98.
Can someone make it clear to me, do I need an amp or not? Thank you.
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See here (http://diyaudioheaven.wordpress.com/tutorials/power-impedance-etc/) and here (http://nwavguy.blogspot.mx/2011/02/headphone-impedance-explained.html). They seem to have a sensitivity of 98 dB SPL @ 1mw, 56 ohm.
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Can someone make it clear to me, do I need an amp or not? Thank you.
A lot of headphones don't need an amp. If it plays from your laptop out, you are fine. Most lower end amps are a trade-off. You will get more power, but at the loss of transparency. With efficiency headphones like Grado, an amp usually doesn't do anything, unless you pair with a really good DAC. For example, I preferred Grados straight from my Sony X Walkman more than with any amp in between.
Most of the regular folks here are nutjobs with several thousand dollar DACs, amps, etc. That's a different story and different game. My recommendation for most normal folks is at least to try without an amp, at least with the efficient headphones, and then perhaps try with an amp (maybe from Amazon with full return privileges). Keep an open mind and consider that maybe an amp really didn't do much.
Sometimes however with more power, you will hear a greater ease of presentation or perhaps more detail because an amp provides more juice for a headphone to properly do its thing. Just keep an open mind and realize that it can go either way. Win with some things. Lose with others. Trade offs.
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Can someone make it clear to me, do I need an amp or not? Thank you.
A lot of headphones don't need an amp. If it plays from your laptop out, you are fine. Most lower end amps are a trade-off. You will get more power, but at the loss of transparency. With efficiency headphones like Grado, an amp usually doesn't do anything, unless you pair with a really good DAC. For example, I preferred Grados straight from my Sony X Walkman more than with any amp in between.
Most of the regular folks here are nutjobs with several thousand dollar DACs, amps, etc. That's a different story and different game. My recommendation for most normal folks is at least to try without an amp, at least with the efficient headphones, and then perhaps try with an amp (maybe from Amazon with full return privileges). Keep an open mind and consider that maybe an amp really didn't do much.
Sometimes however with more power, you will hear a greater ease of presentation or perhaps more detail because an amp provides more juice for a headphone to properly do its thing. Just keep an open mind and realize that it can go either way. Win with some things. Lose with others. Trade offs.
Thks for that. Just Thks. This is the kind of post I would like to read more often.
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See here (http://diyaudioheaven.wordpress.com/tutorials/power-impedance-etc/) and here (http://nwavguy.blogspot.mx/2011/02/headphone-impedance-explained.html). They seem to have a sensitivity of 98 dB SPL @ 1mw, 56 ohm.
Thank you. Don't have time to read this properly, but from what I understood 32ohm headphones needs double less power than 120ohm ones, so based on that, 56ohm really doesn't look like much difference.
@marvey
This! This totally explains variety in posts that I've found. "Need an amp/don't need an amp/need but just for volume, it changes nothing"
Yes, sometimes you need to boost volume, it's a subjective thing. However! I think some people are used to listening at crazy volumes. I remember when I got my HD215 (they are 32ohm tho) (they are my first, hm, good headphones) i was kinda dissapointed with their loudness, and listened for some time on 100% (yes, that's bad), but after some time I realized that I'm perfectly fine with 40%-70%.
Somebody also explained (i assume HD668b are similar to AKG K240 in other aspects, not just external design) that the problem with 240 is they have that space between ear and phone, but the other thing is, I have some active Genius speakers (yes, they are horrible), I can use them as an amp to test songs on higher volumes (did it with HD215). Since they have bass and treble, I can match it pretty much with flat laptop settings, but they don't change sound very much on 0 0, just add little bit of bass, but that's because of power I guess.
I think we have a winner! :)
Thank you guys! Love this forum, wish I found it earlier.
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The short version of whether cans need an amp or not is not as easy as looking at the impedance alone. It is a combination of impedance, sensitivity, and how much that impedance fluctuates within the spectrum
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Sometimes however with more power, you will hear a greater ease of presentation or perhaps more detail because an amp provides more juice for a headphone to properly do its thing. Just keep an open mind and realize that it can go either way. Win with some things. Lose with others. Trade offs.
Is it as much to do with the output quality of the thing, amp or not, than just the factor of amplification?
I guess ATH-AD900 is not a headphone people would say "needs an amp," it is a fairly common-or-garden plug-into-anything thing. I used to connect it to the headphone-out of a Echo Audio interface. One night, when there was no internet to sit in front of, I walked across the room and connected it to the hp socket of a Cyrus integrated amplifier and was just amazed at the difference. It was instant wow as the deep bass of the opening bars of Mahler's first symphony hit my ears and I realised that the headphone had previously-unexplored depths.
NB: this is a newbie post, more question than assertion of fact. This is my first serious headphone; my second is arriving this week.
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Sennheiser HD 215 don't need an amp, but when I plugged them in my Genius speakers (they probably have very crappy amp), I could go louder and bass was stronger, i supose because of power, but also mids and highs suffered a bit because of more bass. Probably it's true that you have to compensate things when you are going louder with crappy amps. Btw, they are often criticised as headphones with lack of bass, but that's not true, they just aren't bass exaggerated, they have awesome bass, but in line with other frequencies. It took me some time to adapt, but now I love them for listening (I use flat EQ, and I listen to some bass demanding music, drum n bass mostly and still find them awesome in bass section!). Just getting louder signal and more bass didn't really make them sound "better" for me.
I think the main problem is that people are used to listen to music at very high volumes and with boosted bass. It's like with sweets, don't eat any for a month, then try Mars for example, and you will taste how too much sweet it is.
On the other side, I supose it's total different world with headphones of 600ohm, but from most that I've found even at 80 iz not that necessary, pretty much in words that Marvey wrote.
P.S. I'm far from the expert, just saying from my limited knowlegde and what I've found on the net. Listening to some pretty bass demanding electronic music on HD 215 that are considered weak bass phones, at volumes just 50% 60% on the laptop, and getting used to it after some time, and not just used to it, but loving how it sounds(!), really opened my eyes.
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It's me again. Man, this problem will never stop. I feel guilty for posting this often here.
I have a problem for about a year with my laptop/headphones. From time to time (it's not that noticable, but it is when it's gone) my headphones start sounding louder and when I go high on volume, borderline blown out, not blown out, but borderline blown out. For example, what volume I could get with 100%, now I'm getting with 70%. This periods occur from time to time, sometimes it's normal for a month, sometimes sounds this borderline blown out and louder for that amount of time too. I tried before with reinstaling the drivers but it didn't help.
Is it soundcard broken, or headphones? If it's soundcard, what external you recommend to me? Since I'm getting my Superlux HD668B I don't want any worse sound than this. Btw, I considered this (integrated) soundcard pretty good, when I switched it between it and my friends M-Audio external soundcard, I couldn't notice any difference really. And, the last one, will I be able to get more volume with external soundcard, or not? I don't need it for recording, just headphones (and maybe speakers), so it would be pointless if it wouldn't make any difference in sound/volume to buy some M-Audio (for example) instead of some cheaper that will do the job. Cheap as it can be, of course.
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These guys (http://hifimediy.com/DACs/ready-made-dacs) sell really cheap DACs in various configurations. They seem like a good value, haven't tried them, though.
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These guys (http://hifimediy.com/DACs/ready-made-dacs) sell really cheap DACs in various configurations. They seem like a good value, haven't tried them, though.
Seems good, but there are 2 problems.
1. I leave in Serbia, so ordering something is very difficult here. (Yes, we aren't like many people imagine us, but shipping is still problem for Eastern Europe)
2. I'm saving money currently for something bigger, so my budget is not great. I need something that will cover the qualities of my current integrated soundcard in terms of both, sound quality and volume (if it can be even better, great! But I'm not delusional, searching for something life changing, I'm objective), I don't want less sound quality or less volume. (As I mentioned, current laptop card doesn't sound bad at all comapring to some external soundcards, I actually couldn't notice the difference)
Will try to find some other pair of HD 215 to compare it, to see if problem is really in soundcard (but I assume it is).
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It's sounding normal again when I turn it to max, slight distortion but not blown out like sound, it's driving me nuts.
Is it possible for soundcard to behave like that that if it's screwed?
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It's me again. Man, this problem will never stop. I feel guilty for posting this often here.
Don't feel that way. You have a real problem. No idea on the sound card. Strange things happen on computers. What player are you using? I don't know if it's possible to bypass the Windows mixer and use WASAPI or kernel streaming?
Either way, I don't think you can do worse quality than your internal sound card. However, I've noticed that most internal sound cards sound a little bit on the warm side. So if you end up getting something like an external sound card, you might get a brighter sound. Maybe. But as you said, you don't hear any difference from your friend's M-Audio.
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Yes, friend of mine also mentioned to me that it could be problem with software, not hardware, even tho drivers are not the problem (or we didn't reinstall them properly last time, but I doubt). But as you said, strange things happen.
I use aimp2. I also noticed that music from my browser (youtube, soundcloud) is not loud like from the player (aimp2), but that's maybe in general like that, not just on my laptop?
Never used WASAPI or kernel streaming. Can use ASIO in my DAW to compare sounds from different drivers if that's of any usage? (Now there is no difference in volume)
What I'm afraid of the most that this problem might affect the new phones that I'm getting and wear them out.
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When mentioned aimp2, to explain my problem exactly. Sounds sometimes turn louder (and stays for quite amount of tim) like when you move preamp on aimp2 eq by +2, +3.
On the player - youtube thing. Sorry, levels are the same now from both with same songs, it's not louder from aimp now when everything sounds normal. Will have to check it when problem occurs.
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When mentioned aimp2, to explain my problem exactly. Sounds sometimes turn louder (and stays for quite amount of tim) like when you move preamp on aimp2 eq by +2, +3.
Try using another player like foobar with Wasapi as well? Might be some funny dsp going on in the background that you don't know.
Also if its hardware and you have enough ram, try using the full file ram buffering option on foobar. Its located under
File-> Preferences-> Advanced-> Playback-> Full file buffering and set the buffer to 50000kb or something. Just so we know that its not your HDD or some lag in hardware that is the problem.
EDIT: Also look at your soundcard settings to make sure you disabled ALL enhancements. Another place to look is if you have say skype's settings or something which reduces your volume during comms.
Right click Playback devices in Windows to see your soundcard, head to the Communications tab and check that Windows is doing nothing to reduce volumes when using comms like Skype, Teamspeak etc.
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@firev1
Installed foobar, installed wasapi output support, enabled wasapi output. Works with both, push and event (even tho I know nothing about this) with "Speakers (Real High Definition Audio)", but when I turn to "ATI HDMI Output (ATI High Definition Audio Device)" it pops up playback error "Unrecoverable playback error: Device invalidated"
Set full file buffering to 50000 (even went for crazy numbers like 1000000 just to see what will happen) and nothing happened. Even pushed the buffer on Wasapi output (don't know if it was needed, but just to try) to 30000 and nothing happened.
Soundcard settings: all enhancements disabled.
Communications tab: Do nothing marked.
Have to admit that I did look at soundcard settings few days ago, but don't know if I reset something, tho sound got better at those days. However, it was getting worse and better in past, so I'm maybe making wrong corellation.
Offtopic: What an awesome player. I actually hear the difference in sound. It's minimal, but it's noticable, separation (kinda) of kick and sub, sharper transients on mids/highs. Love it. Stepping as a total noob into something knows to be kinda funny sometimes haha.
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It is always worth asking silly questions, of the is-it-plugged-in sort, when trouble shooting. I've wasted vast amounts of time by not looking at the simple things first.
--- check the Windows volume levels for that device. I have no idea how, but sometimes they seem to have a mind of their own. This is often the solution to no sound, rather than sound too loud. But check, anyway.
--- check the volume settings in the software. It's easy to swipe a mouse over that without noticing.
I hate Windows. I gave it up at WinXP... so I can't help further with the details.
(Linux has its little quirks for audio too. hey ho, nothing's perfect)
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Re amping, Marv's completely right about trying things unamped first.
I find that everything sounds at least a little better amped. Cheap Grados 7% better (mainly fuller body in the treble); Koss clip ons 15%. But that's no reason to rush out and buy an amp for them.
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Yup, there is a substantial difference between saying 'need' an amp because volume is too low, and an amp that improves or hinders the SQ of the phone in question.
We were just chatting the other day in the chatbox about how loudness is portrayed in music and different frequencies, phases and time intervals, and how the ear and brain perceive those changes. So what might sound loud enough unamped via a test tone or specific band, might not translate over to proper controlled rendering across the entire dynamic musical spectrum.
Some things to listen for might be better transient response to dynamic swings, better blackground with cleaner/sharper imaging, more rounded/complete sense of instruments and performers filling up the soundstage (more realistic and natural rendering), more contrast in timbre between highs and lows, etc.
In most cases amping should be thought of similarly to comparing wav files to low res mp3s. Does anyone 'need' wav files or lossless? No. Is it possible that they would sound better? Yes, possibly depending on circumstances. You are simply presenting more information that is not otherwise being lost. Same for proper amping with a relatively transparent amp or source. You are losing less information in your music than the headphone would being underamped. It sounds kind of like a lower res file when a phone is underamped, except not necessarily with the grain or roughness of digital compression.
It's an individual question for the most part. Which means listen to your phone unamped and then amped with a clean source, and if you don't notice an improvement (for you) save your money.
Hope that helps.
Note: most if not all amps are colored to one degree or another (including the original source you are comparing with), so you could also make things worse or just different. Based on most of the audiophile market, this is usually the case sadly.
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and also you have the standard: mix and match to get the balance reasoning for amps + dacs + headphones
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Sooooo i think my soundcard blew last night.
After instaling wasapi, I found soundcard settings on volumes (previously I could only find speaker). So I went to enhancements, and there was only one on the list and marked "DC offset". So I clicked all enhancements disabled. And it was good for couple of minutes, then I shut down foobar and opened aimp, it was good for couple of second but sound just exploded! Crazy loudness, it was just some BRRRRRRR noise, i felt my laptop speakers wanted to explode. Shut it down, disabled in safe mode, turned on, and when enabled in normal mode this noise came again. I supose it's blew out, I don't think it's drivers. I don't know should I even try to reinstal drivers? I'm afraid that I will screw something more on my laptop if I let soundcard to work wild again.
Well, I think my money savings for monitors are going for soundcard. :( At least I will have a decent one.
Think I will get one of those 5, 10 euros soundcards just to do the job until I find something decent.
Also when I do troubleshot this comes out, so I think it's done.
(http://i.imgur.com/m3Do0Rb.png)
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Hey Darsus, glad to see updates and holy smokes man. Lucky it blew out before you get some better headphones on it since DC offset can be pretty harmful to headphone drivers. It also makes sense that the problem is related to DC offset since you describe a shifting in audio levels. If you could wait and have US$79+shipping you could just wait it out for the Schiit Fulla when it gets reviewed by the guys here, it would fulfill the amp role as well. Too bad and sorry about the speakers though, I use laptop speakers on a pinch often as well so I guess that's unfortunate.
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Possible to uninstall the drivers (Right-click in Device Manager, click Uninstall, tick "Delete the driver software for this device.") and then re-install the driver, reverting the change to settings that you made?
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@firev1
Yes, I supose it was soundcard going wild, with software trying to block it (or whatever tried), that would explain pretty much that slight booming from time to time. (I'm just guessing)
So that noise is sign blown out soundcard def? No relation to drivers? It's just weird to me to go that wild when disableing DC offset on soundcard, but maybe I answered to myself in the first sentence of the post.
Yes that sucks if they are broke, but glad it's them and not my new headphones. Imagining this with them, I would be pissed.
Anyway, this is VERY important. Since I do music production, but I don't record anything, I'd need some soundcard pretty much just for headphones (can DAC be used instead of soundcard and in digital audio workstations?), and since hi end soundcards tend to suck CPU, I'd need something that won't take too much out of my CPU. (My friend started using 2i2, but he says it takes a lot of his CPU) So, from what I said, pretty much basic, but solid sounding USB soundcard needed.
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@namaiki
Will try to do it. I will ask you to go back 1 or 2 pages if you can and tell me what you think of the problem I have. Would be thankful.
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Hmm, what laptop do you have? Are you using the audio driver that has originally been provided by the laptop manufacturer?
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HP G62
I didn't re-install them for for about 3 years, until my friend tried to fix the problem, but I think he installed very same drivers. Can't remember. However, it didn't help.
Here is the driver information. Date is 2010, so yes, he probably installed the same.
(http://i.imgur.com/toyHvox.png)
And this is what it finds too in device manager
(http://i.imgur.com/YBoH4QI.png)
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Hmm, it is possibly the original driver. However, you can check on the HP website if there is a more current version: http://www8.hp.com/us/en/drivers.html
(there seem to be many HP G62 sub-models, you can try use the "Detect my product" option on the HP website to let it detect exactly which laptop sub-model you have and which drivers are appropriate)
No guarantees that it isn't a hardware issue since you seem to have had the volume issue for a long time.
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OK. Thank you very much, sir!
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It was about the drivers! I installed the latest version they had and it works now! Will have to check it with my headphones when I come back home. Thanks again!
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Darsus, if you are on tight budget some personal tips.
Find older series of powered monitor speakers or if you are really low on budget get something like a Logitech S715. Logitech's portable speakers are better than people give them credit for the money. Easy to equalise to and powerful enough for a simple listening set-up.
For the DAC you can go for a basic USB Midi interface. Just check the specifications. Decent ones can be very affordable.
For the headphone amplifier, first try a cmoy which is easy to adjust and fix. Many people in the hobby have one or two unused lying around which can be easily borrowed or passed on.
If you look around you can find a K601 or K240M/DF for little money. Just check their condition. Good luck, scavenger hunting for low cost good value gear at one point becomes second nature ahoy
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Great recommendations, thank you! Will have them on mind. (:
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It was about the drivers!
Amazing. I was thinking... this cannot be the drivers :-[ :-[
Glad you are sorted :)
about speakers... although I drool over better things, my desktop M-Audio AV40s are great value for money. There are genuine active speakers from JBL, something-305 and something-308, I think (sorry if that is hopelessly wrong) that have had a good reception and the Equator D5s, which I have heard and enjoyed, also get a good press.
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That's what I was thinking too. Especially since we re-installed them (the same version tho) before. I just wanted to do it not to feel stupid when I find that they work once I try it in the future haha. Even looked some soundcard today. Well, at least 70 euros saved for now, tho I'm thinking if I get impressed and get good mixes with Superlux HD668B to buy a decent amp, and use JVC stereo (I forgot that I have it at my parents flat) as check out speakers. JBL LSR 305 are still my target tho, couldn't hear better words about them from a lot of professionals.
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JBL LSR 305 are still my target tho, couldn't hear better words about them from a lot of professionals.
That's the one!
It's a bad situation for stuff like that here in India: hard to get, and the price is no longer budget-brilliant-bargain when it is available. If I was in USA, I'd probably have a pair of the 305s or 308s. IIRC, the budget price was like, just buy it --- don't like the sound? Put them on the floor and sit on them!
With the Equators, I can get them here, and I don't think the price premium is huge, but if you are in USA, you can buy them and just send them back if you don't like them.
Hmmm... Maybe you're not in USA!
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I'm in Serbia, so I'm not in much better position haha. I can get them for around 300 euros here (pair), but problem with our countries aren't just prices, it's earnings. Plus as you mentioened, buying options. Here I can't return equipment like that. On the other side, that's not pretty big budget for studio monitors, considering some people who do pretty good mixes on KRK's, JBL LSR being better would be pretty much investment for many, many years. Look at it like that, it's not new Iphone or something, you'll use it for quite amount of time, and it will bring you a lot of good stuff (most important, satisfaction). So I find it worth saving money for. :)
P.S. Friend of mine is a very good sound engineer, competed in Rome, New York etc. He worked on many expensive studio monitors, owns a pair of Genelecs. He was blown away with LSR series (said they sound like 1000$ monitors, and beat KRK easily. He owned KRK as starting monitors), he will buy them as another pair next to already mentioned Genelecs. So when he says it's good investment, I really trust him.
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Serbia... so you don't have the luxury of being a USA buyer either!
Gearslutz has a lot of mixed feelings about Genelec. I suppose they were the first real studio-grade monitor I ever heard, and I was bowled over. Since then, although I haven't had the opportunity to do much wider listening, my interest has widened to such stuff as Adam, Equator, JBL, and many of the others, especially the brands mentioned in the Gearslutz High End Monitor test (although some of that extends not to thousands of $$$ but to tens of thousands of $$$).
internet-drooling, I'd love to put a pair of Geithain RL906 (http://www.me-geithain.de/index.php/en/studio/products/active-loudspeaker/rl906) on my desk. So... I blow my savings on a pair of desktop speakers, get them passed through customs without too much pain, and delivered, undamaged, to my door. My hunch is that they would way outdo Genelec --- but what do I do if and when they go wrong? There's a lot more electronics in active speakers. If I ever do get to spend at that level, at least Genelec are here, in my country; I've met the guys, they are good guys; not the kind of guys who would, for instance, refuse to service something because it had been bought cheaper abroad.
Sorry, this is all about my problems, not yours! I can't get the JBLs here at reasonable price: Equator D5 is earmarked as my affordable upgrade, and it is one that I have actually heard.
But hey, I guess I'm more interested in spending on a new DAC and headphone stuff right now...
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Glad that your problem is resolved Darsus, drivers, would have never thought about them. Was pretty sure the soundcard was fked by DC or something. The D5 is nice(heard) but not sure about the MSRP, they were a killer when they were released, used to be much cheaper.
I desire the Genelecs the most due to my difficult acoustic environment and I'm gonna be travelling soon and want to take them along with me. Or maybe when I get around with my full range bookshelf speakers I could call it a day after that.
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@Thad E Ginathom
Well, I totally understand. If anything, I can service pretty much every brand here in Serbia.
Equator D5 are awesome monitors (reading from reviews). I wouldn't decide easily if I had to chose between them and JBL LSR 305. Btw, my father used to be a hi-fi collector (or whatever it's called), back in the day when financials are better. He used to have/exchange/sell expensive electrostatic speakers of brands higher than JBL, but always, always considered JBL as very good brand. I don't know where that "Junk But Loud" stigma came from?! Really hate when someone writes off JBL's without even hearing them.
@firev1
Yeah, me neither. Couldn't believe.
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I don't know where that "Junk But Loud" stigma came from?! Really hate when someone writes off JBL's without even hearing them.
It came after Harmon bought JBL and did what they usually do to companies they buy. Craig Uthus of Eddie Current used to work for them before and after so we have first hand info behind the scenes of what happened that coincides with a lot of people's impressions after the fact.
I had heard some of their latest loudspeakers at The Show a year ago and they sounded awful. I had never heard of that axiom but that's what they sounded like. The rep said, "isn't that bass awesome!" I was thinking no it's shit, the whole thing is shit. People who know JBL, know their vintage stuff is where the magic was.
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That prety much explains my father's opionion about them. It was so odd to me to hear such a good words from somone who worked with speakers of bigger brands in past then JBL, and nowadays opinion. Thanks!
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The rep said, "isn't that bass awesome!" I was thinking no it's shit, the whole thing is shit.
It sounds like a guy selling bass-thumping speakers to bass-head thumpers. Which is fine ...for bass-head thumpers. To many of us it would probably mean completely unbalanced and horrible speakers.
JBL have a professional division, and the active monitors that Darsus and I have been talking about come from that division. I don't know how different it is....
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I don't know where that "Junk But Loud" stigma came from?! Really hate when someone writes off JBL's without even hearing them.
It came after Harmon bought JBL and did what they usually do to companies they buy. Craig Uthus of Eddie Current used to work for them before and after so we have first hand info behind the scenes of what happened that coincides with a lot of people's impressions after the fact.
I had heard some of their latest loudspeakers at The Show a year ago and they sounded awful. I had never heard of that axiom but that's what they sounded like. The rep said, "isn't that bass awesome!" I was thinking no it's shit, the whole thing is shit. People who know JBL, know their vintage stuff is where the magic was.
Remember the model? I must have missed them
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Remember the model? I must have missed them
No I don't, I couldn't escape fast enough.
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Nothing beats the GR07 for ergonomics. That VSD3 doesn't look that comfortable to me. It's a Shure design with sharp angles that may or may not bother you depending on fit. If your ear canal can handle them, I don't find anything more comfy that small deep insertion IEMs myself.
Managed to try the VSD3 and liked the fit, sound was decent enough. (Sharp angles only protrude outwards. Yes, I think it's still silly, but it doesn't hurt so ok I guess.) Waited a week till they were in stock again, and ordered them. Will report back, in case anyone's interested.
Would have loved a GR07 Classic, but that was too much coin for sth I'll use very infrequently. Appreciate the advice though!
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So here we go again. I can't decide between Superlux HD668B or Samson SR850
Some say they are literally the same, some say they aren't and that samson has slightly higher bass (which I don't like). From what I've found that on paper really makes a difference is impedance and cables. HD668B is 56ohm, SR850 is 32ohm. Since I have 32ohm Sennheisers, they should sound good straight on laptop, but does that affect the quality? Someone said also that HD668B having higher impedance reacts better to amplification (I'm willing to buy an amp if they sound better then SR850 on it). Also, HD668B has deatachable cables, which I like, because you never know what can happen with such a low cost headphones, and I'm willing to buy a batter cable if it would make a difference to sound quality (not too much expensive one to be honest, but better than fabric one). I know we had a talk about this, but how much this slight impedance gap will make difference in overal sound quality between almost same models? What would be your choice and why?
I know it's pain in the ass sometimes to answer on questions like this haha but I would apreciate it.
Edit: to be clear, I know that SR850 will sound louder on laptop, but does lowering impedance affects the overal sound quality? And will they in a same good way to an amplification?
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32 and 56 are close enough. Go for 56 - allows for more flexibility if any future amp you decide to get has higher output Z.
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Just buy what fits your specific needs and your budget. Add a decent sound card or USB Midi interface and do not look back until you have money to buy something better.
The upgraditis bug is best avoided...
P.S. If you want I have an unused AKG K400 that needs a new home. It needs a bit of power though. Shipping fees are all I want, that is it. It needs a new home.
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Thanks for extreme fast replies! Will go with HD668B :)
One guy recommended me to use used Sony minidisc deck, as cheapest best solution for amplification. Do you think it will work fair as an amp?
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@Deep Funk
Wow, PM. :)
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ahoy
Does someone tried to make a woodie YH100 ? stratocaster maybe ? :)p5
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Someone with a Fiio X1 ?
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Will ask here too, this one should be easy. Getting AKG K400 so I'll def need some power (shouts too Utra Funk) so what would be good cheap starting option?
Used CMoy amp?
I get nausea when I hear Behringer, but I'll give this amp a chance http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HA400-BEHRINGER-MICROAMP/dp/B000KIPT30/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top ?
Or, minidisc deck (yeah, I've heard that you don't have great opinion about it, but just wanted to put it on the list).
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(Possible) problem again.
My Sennheiser HD 215 sounds a little bit shallow on one side (or the other one is boosted), it's not really noticable, but when you put left cup on right ear and opposite, you can clearly notice the difference in sound. They behave same when I use them on my phone, but difference is slightly smaller. This smaller difference made me test my cell phone Samsung bugs on my laptop, and I think i noticed sliiiiightly difference between L and R on them too, but might be tripping. So. I'm wondering, could it be that my headphones jack is broken and that that damaged one driver on HD 215, and can I test/measure my laptop soundcard output levels, to see if it's the same for left and right?
Also, since I'm getting an amp, I quit buying soundcard, so will this cheap external USB soundcards do the same job as integrated? This one sounds quite nice, and I already asked about it, but never got an answer about cheap USB vs integrated soundcard quality difference. Will it be worse?
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Forget it, will find a way to test it so that would be the best way. :)
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Background to this post is that I have been listening to my first serious headphones, ATH-AD900 for the past couple of years, mostly very happily, but feeling like a change/upgrade, or, hey, just seeing what it is like to be one of those people who own more than one pair of headphones! Accordingly, I spoke to a few people in person, and online, and got some pertinent advice a couple of pages back in this very thread, and, unheard and un-tried-for-fit, ordered a pair of HD600 to be carried from USA to India by a visiting friend-in-law.
They arrived today.
I have not tried any AB test, but I guess I will. First impression is that it is a lovely sound, a bit reminiscent of vintage hifi: rather mellow, but in a natural way. I'm not sure that they have quite the same bite, in places, as the AT. I did notice that, in the vocal bit of Mahler's 4th, there are notes that hurt my head on the AT; they don't from the HD600.
I'll be letting my ears burn in a bit more: I'm guessing that those in-brain cables are, given some time, going to deliver some more details that I'm not hearing today
popcorn
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Thad, what are you using to drive the HD 600s? I think they need more juice than the AD900s, but I'm not sure. Amping them more might restore the bite you're missing. Assuming you want to get bitten.
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Anyone use the sys passive preamp from schit? For 50 bucks it looks like killer deal and might be interesting with my power amps. Didn't even know they even made that stuff.
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I use the XLR version of this: http://emotiva.com/products/electronics/control-freak
It's about the same price, and let me hook my gungnir up to my speaker amp without anything else in between. It works. I imagine the Schiit one works, too.. if you don't need balanced, the Sys is in a more convenience form factor.
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(Possible) problem again.
My Sennheiser HD 215 sounds a little bit shallow on one side (or the other one is boosted), it's not really noticable, but when you put left cup on right ear and opposite, you can clearly notice the difference in sound. They behave same when I use them on my phone, but difference is slightly smaller. This smaller difference made me test my cell phone Samsung bugs on my laptop, and I think i noticed sliiiiightly difference between L and R on them too, but might be tripping. So. I'm wondering, could it be that my headphones jack is broken and that that damaged one driver on HD 215, and can I test/measure my laptop soundcard output levels, to see if it's the same for left and right?
Also, since I'm getting an amp, I quit buying soundcard, so will this cheap external USB soundcards do the same job as integrated? This one sounds quite nice, and I already asked about it, but never got an answer about cheap USB vs integrated soundcard quality difference. Will it be worse?
Had the same thing on the one I measured for a co-worker:
(http://diyaudioheaven.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/sennheider-hd215-stock.png?w=614&h=414)
The HD215 isn't really a hifi phone but is intended for monitoring.
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Maybe Sennheiser contracts the build of the HD215 to Beyer? :)p17
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I use the XLR version of this: http://emotiva.com/products/electronics/control-freak
It's about the same price, and let me hook my gungnir up to my speaker amp without anything else in between. It works. I imagine the Schiit one works, too.. if you don't need balanced, the Sys is in a more convenience form factor.
Looks kinda weird. Is there even a volume knob? I have balanced interface but my power amps just use rca so the sys will be perfect. I was thinking before going passive in the past but ones I spotted were always bit pricey for some reason. Actually very tempted and will probably order one today after I take care of couple things today( phone bill and shipping something out). Probably be here around monday or so and it'll be perfect cause my power amp is getting restored and be done in time. I'll give it a shot and let people know how I like it cause for 50 bucks plus 2yr warranty, can't pass that up. Looks solidly built too.
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Just ordered the schit sys passive preamp. Let you guys know how I like it compared to my other preamps. Actually excited to see how it is. Next month gonna get the vali to see how a good headamp compares to my power amps speaker outputs since all I ever used was speaker outputs of my power amps so never bothered with headamps but the vali looks killer for the price. I don't need anymore speaker amps too anyways and already bought new speakers I been wanting for years so might as well try a headamp out see how I like it.
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Thad, what are you using to drive the HD 600s? I think they need more juice than the AD900s, but I'm not sure. Amping them more might restore the bite you're missing. Assuming you want to get bitten.
Yes, they do need more juice. Quite a lot more, by the volume knob position. Ten times more imprudence? Impudence... or maybe it's impedance! Resistance may be futile.
I'm using an ifi iCAN, but it is not that simple...
Source is PC to an ODAC. When I have taken the ODAC walkies around other people's systems for comparisons, it has compared well for sound quality, but its output power is usually noticeably lower than the other DACs. I am using a pre-amp as source/volume control, and it is a passive, which means that it slightly lowers the signal level. I think the iCAN is on highest gain already* (and with its volume level at near max) but I got confused about the switch settings.
*Whoops... it was on the lowest :o :-[ :-[ :-[
Comfort notes:
I doubt that anything could compare to the comfort of the the AT AD phones. The wings are so good that I have found myself an inch above the chair. The grip is so right that I had to get used to the fact that no, there were not going to fall off.
I have a thin face: the HD600s do not press to hard. They press in slightly different places. That I will get used to. I have no need at all to try stretching anything.
As I write...
This is a whole new world now I have upped the gain, and the horrible doubts are falling away :)p2
Actually... I'm confused. There's a volume knob and a three-level gain control....
The volume knob actually reduces (unless on full) the input signal, right? Is what we consumers call "volume," equivalent to "input sensitivity?" My understanding: the amount of amplification is constant, but the input signal is controlled. Is that right?
Then gain: is that that just another part of the same thing, acting on the input signal, or does it, as the name gain implies, actually control the amount of amplification?
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(Possible) problem again.
My Sennheiser HD 215 sounds a little bit shallow on one side (or the other one is boosted), it's not really noticable, but when you put left cup on right ear and opposite, you can clearly notice the difference in sound. They behave same when I use them on my phone, but difference is slightly smaller. This smaller difference made me test my cell phone Samsung bugs on my laptop, and I think i noticed sliiiiightly difference between L and R on them too, but might be tripping. So. I'm wondering, could it be that my headphones jack is broken and that that damaged one driver on HD 215, and can I test/measure my laptop soundcard output levels, to see if it's the same for left and right?
Also, since I'm getting an amp, I quit buying soundcard, so will this cheap external USB soundcards do the same job as integrated? This one sounds quite nice, and I already asked about it, but never got an answer about cheap USB vs integrated soundcard quality difference. Will it be worse?
Had the same thing on the one I measured for a co-worker:
(http://diyaudioheaven.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/sennheider-hd215-stock.png?w=614&h=414)
The HD215 isn't really a hifi phone but is intended for monitoring.
Ha! Even the range is same. I was 100% sure that I screwed one driver by forcing them, or that my bad soundcard wore it out. I know that they aren't Hi Fi phones, I use them for monitoring. Couldn't find any frequency response chart for them, thank you for the info!
P.S. I ordered a pair of Superlux HD668B and I'm open to mod them. Been told by many that you have ton of mod instructionals for Superlux, but couldn't find any particularly for that model. Did you wrote it anywhere?
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Ha! Even the range is same. I was 100% sure that I screwed one driver by forcing them, or that my bad soundcard wore it out. I know that they aren't Hi Fi phones, I use them for monitoring. Couldn't find any frequency response chart for them, thank you for the info!
P.S. I ordered a pair of Superlux HD668B and I'm open to mod them. Been told by many that you have ton of mod instructionals for Superlux, but couldn't find any particularly for that model. Did you wrote it anywhere?
http://diyaudioheaven.wordpress.com/schematics/headphone/
(near the bottom of the page in the 'Superlux section')
It is only a schematic for the filter which can me made external.
No mechanical mods.
perhaps with felt in front of the driver somewhat similar results can be had.
The electronic filter, however, only adresses the 'hurting' part of the FR where felt also influences parts of the FR you would not want.
I calculated it and drew it based on findings of a guy in the Ukraine (well before they started shooting our countrymen out of the sky).
I think he used his ears and an equalizer.
Turns out he did a decent job judging from measurements I saw later.
The plots from Superlux themselves are ... urmmm... somewhat besides the truth.
I owned it for a few months (nearly all of the interesting Superluxes) but did not like the wing thing and found it a little to 'bland' and 'lifeless'.
Good for monitoring though.
The (modified) HD681 and modified HD681 EVO are more fun and more hifi.
I did not feel the need to remove the peak it has, it added a little 'sparkle'.
Filtered it was more 'boring' but think for monitoring that may actually work well.
I thought the HD668B sounded a lot like the Samson SR850 (an OEM from Superlux) which I gave to a friend later on.
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I thought the HD668B sounded a lot like the Samson SR850 (an OEM from Superlux) which I gave to a friend later on.
Are you going to get the new HD562?
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The HD25 appearance knock-off....
Not going to buy it.
Personally I don't like on-ears because they start to hurt my ears after an hour or so.
Sometimes Superlux sends me a unit for evaluation, but not this one.
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@solderdude
Thank you! I think I have a guy that could do this for me. Also, do you think lowering highs with EQ would diminish the details and quality of sound?
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It will reduce the slightly fatiguing treble.
It isn't as bad as the HD681 which can be shrill at times when left stock.
I felt the 668B was more balanced, the HD681 is more V shaped.
The HD668B is more midrange focussed (better for more accurate monitoring).
Because the treble is slightly reduced it will become slightly warmer sounding.
Detail will still be there, fake detail will be reduced.
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Yes, I know, but lowering with digital EQ, software, will it affect the sound negatively?
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If you use good software, it will not lower sound quality.
I run my speakers EQ'd to reached a target FR at listening position. The stereo sounds MUCH BETTER with EQ than without.
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Can you recommend some? Have in mind that it has to be ASIO compatibile since I plan to use it in DAW too, and not very much demanding, CPU/memory hungry. It's probably tough to find something that fits, but...
(I know google is my friend for most of the questions I asked, but I really wanna hear opinion/suggestion from people that know their stuff)
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Will there be any difference if I connect my equipment (in this case minidisc recorder) on digital and not on analog IN? My friend says that analog is way better, but since I don't have S/PDIF on my laptop, I can do it only digitally. Might buy S/PDIF adapter if it makes difference tho.
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I come to the thread with a somewhat related question;
I noticed my new motherboard has an SPDIF output. Should I connect the Gungnir (USB Gen 2) to it? I'm considering doing it just to free up the USB port. :)p5
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The general consensus here is that USB gen 2 is superior to the optical and coax inputs on the gungnir and bifrost, especially with the wyrd. Try it for yourself first.
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okay thanks!
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Anyone tried compared lcd3 w/fazor and classic version? Any different in these two?
I'm getting one but didnt have a chance to demo them yet.
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not sure if helpful but the LCD-2 with fazor, I prefer over the LCD-2 rev2 that I've had.
I believe Tyll on www.innerfidelity.com did comparisons with the Fazor - and there is a difference for sure. more than just unit variation I'd bet.
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So, just one simple question...
Best headphone for classical music around US$ 100 ... HD558? :money:
Any others options?
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I would suggest some IEM-s. Something with twfk drivers, like Fischer DBA-2, ATH CK10 (used).
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So, just one simple question...
Best headphone for classical music around US$ 100 ... HD558? :money:
Any others options?
Try a KSC75, pretty good. Not AKG good but very nice and too good to ignore. My KSC75 has the quarter modification: a hole in the ear pad foam.
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Best headphone for classical music around US$ 100
Tx0RP + mods (patience required)
XPT100
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Can someone recommend an alternative power supply for the Offramp? The Dynamo strikes me as unnecessarily expensive.
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For some reason I'm curious about portable amps capable of powering something crazy like an HE5 or 6 after coming across the ifi Micro iDSD. It reportedly puts out 4 watts @ 16 ohms & 1.56 watts @ 64 ohms.
http://ifi-audio.com/portfolio-view/micro-idsd/
I never really explored the portable amp market before. Does anything power wise compare to the Micro iDSD?
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Maybe Geek Out 1000. Schiit Fulla might be comparable, but it's not out yet.
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For some reason I'm curious about portable amps capable of powering something crazy like an HE5 or 6 after coming across the ifi Micro iDSD. It reportedly puts out 4 watts @ 16 ohms & 1.56 watts @ 64 ohms.
http://ifi-audio.com/portfolio-view/micro-idsd/
I never really explored the portable amp market before. Does anything power wise compare to the Micro iDSD?
Ohmygod... the headfi hypetrain marketing tamasha on that one made me vomit several times before I gave up following it (It's a new kind of eating disorder: Forum-associated bulimia nervosa. I'm getting help ;) ) as did the lunatic climb of the ladder into so-called-but-not-really high-res music formats even beyond what is actually available.
Which is a pity. I have an ifi iCAN, and was quite prepared to be a bit of a company fanboy! Not any longer.
Mind you: none of this means that I'm not prepared to accept that the iDSD stuff sounds good. i think there is every possibility that it does.
Maybe Geek Out 1000. Schiit Fulla might be comparable, but it's not out yet.
I don't know abut Geek Out, but Schiit is not climbing the ladder into DSD-land and it is not going to be there in the Fulla, so it is not going to be comparable in the future-proof all-formats-covered department. Big difference in price: will it compete in sound?
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Got my schitt sys passive pre earlier today. Was out but back home now and giving it quick test hooked up to my Harman kardon hk770 dual-mono poweramp and using Technics sb7000a hooked up to echo audiofire 2@+4dbu and like it. Does it's job and lot better built then I thought it would be. Very solid.
Will give more go and compare it to my Harman kardon hk725 preamp. Just gonna be busy Tomorrow picking up pair minty new looking polk monitor 10s and hanging with old friend so hopefully I get to test out everything tomorrow evening. So far though I would recommend especially killer price of 50 bucks.
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Has anyone had expirience with this soundcard? Is it worth buying at 50 euros, or should avoid it?
Creative Labs SB1090
(http://sclick.net/cool%20gadgets/newest-computer-gadget/23/latest-best-top-new-cool-PC-computer-gadgets-creative-labs-surround-5.1-usb-x-fi.jpg)
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Hans and I have good experience with the higher end X-Fi HD and I think its a good unit with maybe a steep learning curve. I would start with a UD110mk2 from Stoner Acoustics.
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Hans and I have good experience with the higher end X-Fi HD and I think its a good unit with maybe a steep learning curve. I would start with a UD110mk2 from Stoner Acoustics.
Wow that's one mighty little DAC. Shame they don't ship it to Serbia, plus I don't know if it would produce enough power, since I'm still seeking for something that will be more of an soundcard/DAC and amp in one. In my country there is a saying "How much money you give, that much music you'll get"... well, back to searching.
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I've used CDPs and I've used DACs but not together. So can I use my Marantz CD6005 as a transport for a DAC? Presumably from one of the digital outs with a cable of some sort?
Will it sound (more or less) the same as just using the DAC?
Thanks.
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The Creative SB1240 works well as an ADC, but I don't care for its sound as a DAC subjectively.
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I've used CDPs and I've used DACs but not together. So can I use my Marantz CD6005 as a transport for a DAC? Presumably from one of the digital outs with a cable of some sort?
Will it sound (more or less) the same as just using the DAC?
Thanks.
Yessir. Basically you're just using the CDP to get the "digits" into the DAC, same as your computer would do... so yeah, you should be "hearing" your DAC.
There are certainly some who will argue about the effects of the CDP in the chain etc... but from a basic principal stand point, you got it!
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I've used CDPs and I've used DACs but not together. So can I use my Marantz CD6005 as a transport for a DAC? Presumably from one of the digital outs with a cable of some sort?
Will it sound (more or less) the same as just using the DAC?
Thanks.
Made similar thread, just about using a minidisc recorder. Will you connect it through SPDIF? I don't have it on my laptop, so I'd have to buy an adapter, but it would be still cheaper solution and probably better then most of the cheap DAC/Amps.
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Thanks guys. Should I use coax or optical? Which is better, or is there no general rule?
Incidentally, I won a Silverstar 75 cable in a raffle (looks like the one below). So maybe I should just use that. I'm guessing I just connect it coax to coax.
I don't know what I have in mind yet. Right now, I'm looking at the Metrum DACs amongst many others.
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That coax will work great for you, go for it.
Most folks would say coax>optical...
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Yessir. Basically you're just using the CDP to get the "digits" into the DAC, same as your computer would do... so yeah, you should be "hearing" your DAC.
There are certainly some who will argue about the effects of the CDP in the chain etc... but from a basic principal stand point, you got it!
I'm one of those. While I would say ship is right your DAC has it's own sound, I've tried more than 12 different transports of varying price points with my PWDmk1>2 and most of them produced their own signature within the DAC's own. It also depends on which input/output on each device is used and how implemented.
It's not just bits are bits from a CDP to the DAC anymore than every DAC sounds the same cuz bits are bits. The 'digital' signal from the CDP still gets sent through mostly analog pathways designed to mimic a digital signal to get to the DAC. That said, your Bach will not turn into Black Sabbath.
If you use an Oppo planar, disregard, they'll all sound the same.
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That coax will work great for you, go for it.
Most folks would say coax>optical...
agreed! If memory serves: Optical is faster but Coax has more bandwidth (please correct me if I'm mistaken)
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So I bought a gungnir on ebay. it has USB, but I don't know if its gen 1 or 2. If it turns out to be 1, is it a better idea to get a gen 2 board from Schiit, use optical out from my mac, or get something for around $100 that will do USB to BNC? This is just until Yggdrasil sprouts.
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I'm one of those. While I would say ship is right your DAC has it's own sound, I've tried more than 12 different transports of varying price points with my PWDmk1>2 and most of them produced their own signature within the DAC's own. It also depends on which input/output on each device is used and how implemented.
It's seems you're saying that adding a DAC would kind of split the difference: the sound wouldn't be the sound of the CDP or the DAC but some combination of the two sounds.
That's OK with me, as a 50% improvement in the source for $750 is worth it. (Of course there's a small chance that the result could sound wonky, but I'm willing to risk it.)
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Optical is faster but Coax has more bandwidth
This statement in itself doesn't make much sense. Mind posting a reference?
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It's seems you're saying that adding a DAC would kind of split the difference: the sound wouldn't be the sound of the CDP or the DAC but some combination of the two sounds.
That's OK with me, as a 50% improvement in the source for $750 is worth it. (Of course there's a small chance that the result could sound wonky, but I'm willing to risk it.)
You can get very good results by running SPDIF (balanced AES or unbalanced RCA) out of any decent quality CD player into a dedicated DAC. I would consider the Marantz players in that group of quality transports. Ultimately, from my experience, I would deem the transport's effect on SQ to be marginal compared to the differences that can be had between D/A stages.
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agreed! If memory serves: Optical is faster but Coax has more bandwidth (please correct me if I'm mistaken)
I think you are mistaken. And don't speed and bandwidth, in this context, mean more or less the same thing anyway?
Coax can handle higher sample rates --- but your source is a CD, so that is irrelevant.
People like to say about coax that it is electrically isolating, although this is usually when they are talking about how much "noise" PCs make. Other people like to say that it has more jitter --- but they probably just like to talk about jitter anyway.
Confession time: I've never used co-ax digital, and it is more than a decade since I made a lot of use of optical. Back in that day, I had analogue and optical input and output to/from a PC RME card, and was very happy with both.
The big deal advantage of the CD player internal DAC is close-linked connection of transport and DAC.
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Is close proximity of the transport and DAC an advantage at all?
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This statement in itself doesn't make much sense. Mind posting a reference?
I was told this eons ago and it appears it's inaccurate so my apologies.
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It's less about proximity than removing crappy USB and PC implementations. You replace that with possibly better transports but they can impart their own signature which often sounds better than those crappy USB and PC implementations.
Caution: Most current transports on the market suck so beware you could be wasting your time if going in uninformed.
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Is close proximity of the transport and DAC an advantage at all?
Maybe. I'm not at all certain that it is the actual distance that counts, so much as the close linking with no timing issues whatsoever.
OK, I'm stabbing in the dark here :)p7
And quite likely to shoot myself in the foot :)p1
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Hi,
I'm considering getting a Schiit set (Bifrost + Valhalla 2) for my desktop. I'm currently in possession of a M^3 with Sigma11 amplifier, and a Spitfire Bravo Dac. Is there anyone here with experience on these devices, and able to tell me if its worth it going for the Schiit set, or that the changes would be minimal. Its hard to get some good intel on the m^3 and spitfire, whether they are decent or not. I was quite surprised by how much better the Geek Out 450 DAC sounds compared to my TC Electronic Konnekt 8.
Thank you,
Victor
edit: I will be using the setup with the HD800 (anax 2.0 modded) and the Paradox
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Can anyone think of a good 2 channel power amp? Needs to be able to drive a 4 ohm load and have a pair of balanced inputs. Used preferably.
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Does anyone have a problem with foobar2000, to create an annoying click on the beginning if a song is played for the first time?
Edit: Weird, with some not.
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Does anyone have a problem with foobar2000, to create an annoying click on the beginning if a song is played for the first time?
Edit: Weird, with some not.
Many dacs will make clicking noises when they switch sampling rates. Could it be that?
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Hey guys, recently bought a dozen panels of Rockwool, 100kg/m3 1.5m*0.6m*1" panels. However my ma recently saw some small bugs crawling out of the Rockwool packaging. Any ideas for pest control or to insure the thing is not infested? Methods got to have as little environmental footprint cus I live in an apartment.
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Chemistry is somewhat toxic to all inhabitants.
Freese, heat or expose to x-rays.
Micro-waves should penetrate glass fibers as well.
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Being lazy again, so i'll just ask some power cable questions here.
I went through some cable threads in HF and din't get much coherent info there. So many are swearing they hear differences in all major fronts in sound quality. So its hard to stay totaly ignorant at this point. :)p3
I made a dedicated power line (with dedicated ground) to audio equipment, but so far i haven't heard improvements, sounds the same to me. Though the power cords are all cheap ass chinese shitt. So maybe there is something there i am missing. I have no tools to measure power quality just jet, so the task is on ears.
What should i look for in a power cable to dac or amp? What is there technically?
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Alright guys, just broke down and ordered a pair of UERM today.
Do i even need to upgrade the cable of this one? Or the stock is the best config already?
I know this sounds really weird but most of my friend in hifi meeting group here keep telling me that i might need to upgrade them.
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The stock cable is great in terms of ergonomics and durability. I haven't tried other CIEM cables, so I don't know if they'll make a sonic difference or not. Just stick with the stock cable and save your money imo.
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What should i look for in a power cable to dac or amp? What is there technically?
Decent and mechanically well fitting connectors are essential, don't need to cost that much either, not too long, not too short, no need for screening (everything behind the wall socket isn't screened). Cable thickness: the thinnest is enough for low power devices, power amps can do with somewhat thicker copper wires.
Of course others (fanboys and cable sellers) may have other opinions.
A mains cord ONLY carries short (a few milli seconds wide) 'pulses' in a 100Hz or 120Hz tempo.
Upper harmonics of those pulses, that have some power behind it, may end up in the few kHz region.
The mains-trafo's FR range limits that peak speed and as most power transformers do not go much further than a few to 10kHz the 'speed' of mains systems is always rediculesly slow.
Harmonics well above 50kHz will usually be common mode and have no problems passing any cable except when ferrites are mounted or mains filters are applied.
There is NO AUDIO passing through any power cord.
Safety ground doesn't do anything againt RFI EMC, it only works as 'safety' ground (so you won't get a shock when touching metal parts)
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Micro-waves should penetrate glass fibers as well.
I could try disassembling a cheap microwave and fire it at the rockwool I guess, or else its air dry after some spraying I guess?
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There is NO AUDIO passing through any power cord.
Safety ground doesn't do anything againt RFI EMC, it only works as 'safety' ground (so you won't get a shock when touching metal parts)
Thanks for the insight. Though 'hum' can come through (sure, it could be flawed psu and etc), and i wonder if its characteristics are manipulated by the conductor before a transformer. And then show up as a function of ripple on the dc side, that could affect amplified signal. (Perhaps i should educate myself a bit more in this subject, before waisting other people's time.)
I installed separate ground because of my household appliances and computer crap out all sort of pulses to the ground, so its ~5V average differnece between the separate ground, yea the household ground is just poor.
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I could try disassembling a cheap microwave and fire it at the rockwool I guess, or else its air dry after some spraying I guess?
If you are going for it then try on a small spot first, if it does absorb the waves, then the fibers will stick together, agglomerate.
Back when i built sound absorbers to my room, i sealed the wool panels in a plastic film and then covered with cloth to prevent fibers spreading out. The creatures inside would probably starv there.
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General consensus regarding SPDIF is coax is better than Toslink, right?
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If you are going for it then try on a small spot first, if it does absorb the waves, then the fibers will stick together, agglomerate.
Back when i built sound absorbers to my room, i sealed the wool panels in a plastic film and then covered with cloth to prevent fibers spreading out. The creatures inside would probably starv there.
Its okay to shrink wrap them in thin plastic? That would pretty much solve everything :3
@Azteca, ask me and I would say it depends but generally coax has better bandwidth.
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Its okay to shrink wrap them in thin plastic? That would pretty much solve everything :3
Thin plastic layer won't have much effect to acoustics, some reflection at high frequencies, therefore of real importance only at early reflection points. Another layer of cloth or felt should absorb higher frequencies from the plastic.
Just don't compress the wool to much, it could degrade its performance.
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Which RE600 should I go for? Should I get the regular balanced version or the RE600s? https://head-direct.com/Products/?act=detail&id=174 (https://head-direct.com/Products/?act=detail&id=174)
My considerations:
1. I don't have a balanced DAP, but I might buy Geek Wave whenever it finally comes out.
2. I'd be using it with an Ety resistor to give me very low volume / more low volume range. Would it be impractical or very annoying to use the balanced RE600 + TRS adapter + Ety resistor? Would it degrade the sound quality to chain them with both an adapter and a resistor?
Thanks much.
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I had some HiFiMan IEMs that were balanced... never used them other than single ended...
I had the Ray Samuels SR-71B and balanced cables for my customs. I found it to be more a pain in the ass than it was worth.
I'd only consider a balanced portable if I were going to drive some full sized headphones with it and if I set it up with a balanced source.
Otherwise I'd place this all in the not worth it category and go for a simpler portable set up.
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Alright guys, just broke down and ordered a pair of UERM today.
Do i even need to upgrade the cable of this one? Or the stock is the best config already?
I know this sounds really weird but most of my friend in hifi meeting group here keep telling me that i might need to upgrade them.
Gonna have to agree with thegunnar100 on this one. The UERM has one of the best stock cables I've seen on an IEM, particularly from an aesthetic and practicality standpoint. I'd just save your money. You're in for a treat though, the UERM is great!
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Quick tip, as a cheap temporarily solution, what would drive my headhones better? Behringer UCA202 or CMOY amp (on integrated soundcard)?
I've read that UCA202 has a problem with low impedance headphones and that sound can actually get worse using it (Superlux HD668B 56ohm 98db sensitivity, AKG 400 120ohm 94db sensitivity). Has anybody used UCA202 with low impedance headphones?
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I used to have a UCA202, but too long ago to remember anything specific about the sound other than "meh". It shouldn't have any trouble with the AKG K400 though.
For ~$25 there aren't that many options. Maybe just find a Behringer HA400?
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Yeah, I know it's meh, all that equipment in that price range. I had some unplaned expenses, otherwise would buy something more decent like Scarlett 2i2. What about UCA202 with 56ohm Superlux?
Behringer HA400 is another option, I forgot to mention it, tho friend of mine who owned it in the past told me his CMOY drives his Beyerdynamics better, which sounds odd to me, but who knows.
It seems like my problems with integrated soundcard resurected, it's so annoying, so I might buy UCA202 because of that, before I buy something more decent, otherwise would probably buy HA400.
I'm just worried because I plan to mix on Superlux that it will ruin sound on it. Shame we can't test/return products here.
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How about a used gen1 Dragonfly? Or one of those Stoner Acoustics minidacs? Some of the hifimediy options might be cheap enough as well.
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I have the HD 600. I'm pleased with their versatility, lack of obvious coloration, and transferability to speakers. I'm looking for upgrade options though.
Right now I've got maybe $500. Could spend more, or much more, depending on how well justified it is.
Regarding DACs and amplifiers, I'm sure that I can't hear the difference between them, so I'm not changing these.
I'm alright with modding things, as long as they're reversible, or something I mess up can be inexpensively replaced.
I also EQ everything out of my computer using Equalizer APO (http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/ (http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/)). Currently I have a 10dB peak at 20Hz with Q of 1. Therefore, I'm willing to correct inadequacies limited to frequency response in this way.
I mostly use headphones to listen to music, especially piano music, but I think good headphones sound good with anything. When I listen to music, I use a binaural and room simulation VST TB Isone (http://www.toneboosters.com/tb-isone/ (http://www.toneboosters.com/tb-isone/)). When I listen to music, I don't want to be distracted by the equipment. That's my priority. I occasionally make music (Chill out; I always check with speakers).
I've looked at the HE-500. I've seen the "ortho wall" which I understand I will not be able to hear, and actually looks smaller than the 4-ish kHz ringing on the HD 600 anyway. This is on my shortlist.
Can you add any thoughts?
Edit: and HE-560. Haven't read much about it though.
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How about a used gen1 Dragonfly? Or one of those Stoner Acoustics minidacs? Some of the hifimediy options might be cheap enough as well.
Stoner Acoustics! I think Marvey already mentioned it to me, but I totally forgot. And for it's price, awesome solution! However, they don't ship to Serbia, plus, I need something now, can't put these headphones aside for even more time, but they might become no1 option for the future, thanks! Btw, found a guy with UCA202 so I will test it when I recieve new headphones, if it doesn't do the job, well, maybe I will put them aside (that will kill me) and look up for some used SA.
P.S. 110 or 120, is there much of a difference and (I supose it can since you recommended it, but just to check) could it get decent volumes without an amp?
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I'm tempted to get the UERM on sale through Massdrop, but I am a bit hesitant based on my experience with my UE TF10 (chain: foobar > dragonfly 1.0 > RSA Tomahawk > TF10).
When listening to the TF10, I find that I have to turn the volume higher than I'd like for long listening sessions in order to even feel slightly engaged with the music, especially with certain vocals. As a result, I get the impression that the vocals sound recessed and distant. Conversely, if I listen through my decidedly low-fi computer speakers (chain: foobar > Behringer UCA202 > Cambridge Soundworks Microworks), music becomes more engaging and less distant/more immersive.
I'm not sure if IEMs are not "my thing" or if the TF10s (and/or chain) are to blame? I feel that I have a good seal and can feel resistance when lightly tugging on the inserted TF10s. Bass quantity and quality are definitely there. I've read that the UERM are voiced to resemble the Yamaha NS10, so I've wondered if the "speaker-like" UERM would address my dissatisfaction with the TF10? I'd appreciate any opinions. Thanks.
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Have you also tried the TF10 straight out of the Dragonfly?
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I'm tempted to get the UERM on sale through Massdrop, but I am a bit hesitant based on my experience with my UE TF10 (chain: foobar > dragonfly 1.0 > RSA Tomahawk > TF10).
When listening to the TF10, I find that I have to turn the volume higher than I'd like for long listening sessions in order to even feel slightly engaged with the music, especially with certain vocals. As a result, I get the impression that the vocals sound recessed and distant. Conversely, if I listen through my decidedly low-fi computer speakers (chain: foobar > Behringer UCA202 > Cambridge Soundworks Microworks), music becomes more engaging and less distant/more immersive.
I'm not sure if IEMs are not "my thing" or if the TF10s (and/or chain) are to blame? I feel that I have a good seal and can feel resistance when lightly tugging on the inserted TF10s. Bass quantity and quality are definitely there. I've read that the UERM are voiced to resemble the Yamaha NS10, so I've wondered if the "speaker-like" UERM would address my dissatisfaction with the TF10? I'd appreciate any opinions. Thanks.
TF10's are 'U' shaped with recessed mids and boosted bass, that's why you have to increase the volume to balance out your HRTF. The UERMs are neutral so you'll be able to listen lower. The question is whether customs will be right for your ears and tastes, etc.
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@namaiki: it seems there are only subtle differences going straight from the Dragonfly.
@Anax: thanks for the insight. I found marvey's TF10 measurements and applied some EQ, which help.
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nvm
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Anyone have more suggestions for the amp for TH900 ? i'm currently looking at DNA amps (Stratus) but kinda too lazy to deals with tube, i know that Ragnarok probably a good choice but anything with smaller footprints is very welcome.
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a Dynalo? I thought a saw a Sheer Audio HA-006 in the FS forums the other day.
No relation to seller.
EDIT: boom
http://www.head-fi.org/t/744492/sheer-audio-ha-006-similar-to-gilmore-lite-with-dedicated-psu
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Anyone have more suggestions for the amp for TH900 ? i'm currently looking at DNA amps (Stratus) but kinda too lazy to deals with tube, i know that Ragnarok probably a good choice but anything with smaller footprints is very welcome.
Just request good stock tubes, and you don't have to mess with anything like rolling (unless you want to, of course). Tube amps don't have to be any more work than solid state. The lifespan of new tubes isn't like a lightbulb that you have to change every few months or anything.
I felt the TH900 sounded excellent out of the Zana Deux SE which is neutralish with a slight sweetness to its sound. That would be my bet along with the Stratus if you wanted a big tube amp.
Personally I don't think the TH900 needs a big amp to work its magic however. I thought it sounded really good from the ECP Black Diamond. I was also pretty satisfied w/ it out of a portable or transportable amp like the Leckerton UHA-6S. Then there's the GEEK Out: just make sure you get one of the lower numbers or it'll hiss too much.
I've got a Schiit Fulla coming, and I'll get to try it out w/ the TH900. I suspect it'll pair well.
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a Dynalo?
With the TH900? Meh.
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Just request good stock tubes, and you don't have to mess with anything like rolling (unless you want to, of course). Tube amps don't have to be any more work than solid state. The lifespan of new tubes isn't like a lightbulb that you have to change every few months or anything.
I felt the TH900 sounded excellent out of the Zana Deux SE which is neutralish with a slight sweetness to its sound. That would be my bet along with the Stratus if you wanted a big tube amp.
Personally I don't think the TH900 needs a big amp to work its magic however. I thought it sounded really good from the ECP Black Diamond. I was also pretty satisfied w/ it out of a portable or transportable amp like the Leckerton UHA-6S. Then there's the GEEK Out: just make sure you get one of the lower numbers or it'll hiss too much.
I've got a Schiit Fulla coming, and I'll get to try it out w/ the TH900. I suspect it'll pair well.
thanks for reply!
the problem regarding getting DNA/EC amps here is about custom clearance in my country (Thailand) most of the time i need to add 10-20% more to the price but i've to admitted that i really like the look of Stratus!
ECP Black Diamond's size seems to be really tempting to me as well! did you try any planars on it too ?
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General Request: does anyone have a recommendation for a quality, budget friendly, short HD600 cable? By budget friendly, I mean $50-60 or less; by short, I mean no longer than 4.5'.
I've been using the HD650 cable with my 600's but it's crazy cumbersome for moving about the house with my laptop and GO450. It sucks even worse for using the GO450 > Note 4 via USB-OTG. Just way too much cable.
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https://www.massdrop.com/buy/sennheiser-zy-cable/talk + scissors + solder?
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Pass on the dynalo. Have a Gilmore lite + dps and it was a bad match with my old th900s. The ZDSE was a good match.
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General Request: does anyone have a recommendation for a quality, budget friendly, short HD600 cable? By budget friendly, I mean $50-60 or less; by short, I mean no longer than 4.5'.
I use a twist tie or velcro (probably not much help in this case) but the HD650 is a good deal thicker so you might want to pick up an HD600 cable if you want to do that.
You could try asking Caspar if he could make you one: http://www.head-fi.org/u/348881/ccasper-tfg (http://www.head-fi.org/u/348881/ccasper-tfg). He does superb-looking work.
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Alright, get to demo th900 today for 2 hours.
It's pretty damn awesome but i do feel that the treble is a bit too sharp for me so the search will continue........
Actually , if i like tenore a lot , what fullsize i should go and try them?
Budget wise, i can go as far as lcd3 , the amp can be purchase later btw, i am still shop around for new fz to build new system on it.
Current list now is
Hd650
He560
Lcd-3 (if i can find pre-fazor at cheaper than full price)
Pandora vi
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Ok, I need help. I know, I know, I have a therapist, but she can't help here. I am looking to upgrade to a new set of headphones for xmas.
I specifically want an open back set in the ~$500 range. I'll be ordering from Amazon, so as far as price/performance is concerned those are the prices I'm dealing with, for better or worse. That's just how I roll. I believe I have narrowed it down to either an HD600/650 or the HE-500, but willing to consider others (he-400i, he-560?, etc).
I currently use and enjoy the Shure srh840 for closed cans, and the he-400 for open. I find the Shures have a nice upper mid range. OTOH, although I really like the he-400s, I have to eq them by bumping the 2k-5k range a couple db, and dropping the 10k range a couple db, otherwise they don't sound right to me. Also, the he-400s manifest a low noise/crackle on some music that I believe is caused by harmonic distortion (mostly noticed on heavy metal). As for music, classical music is the most important genre for me, but rock/metal and others matter.
For amp/dac, I hope to not upgrade that for awhile. At my disposal I have a Centrance Dacport 1 ohm, and a Fiio e07k + e09k. Will these be up for the task?
So - HD650 or HE-500? Or other? help!
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Adorama has a sale on HD650's for $315 right now. For that price, you can't go wrong.
Also: Is that a Dacport or a Dacport LX? I like the DAC in the Dacport, but amp section is more or less the weak spot. If it's an LX, pick up the HD650 from that sale and use the rest of the headphone budget to pick up a Vali to use with the Centrance. If it's not, pick up the HD650 and consider using the rest of the budget for a GO450.
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The dacport with the 1 ohm mod is actually pretty decent. I'd rock it with an HD6XX
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@AustinValentine, Thanks for the tip on the Adorama site. Will check that out. I don't have the DacportLX, mine is the regular amped dacport. If I'm reading your ideas correctly, it sounds like you recommend a better amp in either case (hd650 or he500), and due to that, you favor finding a hd650 at a good price to allow for some budget room to get the Go450. Sounds reasonable. Is the GO450 really any better than the Dacport? They're both USB powered, and the Dacport touts its class A amp as the shiznit for this price range and type.
@zerodeefex Thanks for your input. Also thanks for your opinion on the dacport. I understand that it's limited by being only USB powered, but within that restriction was under the impression that it did well.
Interesting, so far that's two votes for the HD650.
I really appreciate all of your help. Any other takers? HD650 or HE-500 (see my first post a little bit above)
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The problem with the DACPort is the crappy pot, not the output-z unless you are using sensitive IEMS with crossovers. Should be a non issue with HD6xx.
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Adorama has a sale on HD650's for $315 right now. For that price, you can't go wrong.
Also: Is that a Dacport or a Dacport LX? I like the DAC in the Dacport, but amp section is more or less the weak spot. If it's an LX, pick up the HD650 from that sale and use the rest of the headphone budget to pick up a Vali to use with the Centrance. If it's not, pick up the HD650 and consider using the rest of the budget for a GO450.
What if you like the HD 600 more? That deal is so tempting because it is obviously a better deal and they are selling the 650 for less than the HD 600. I happen to like the HD600 more, but they are both great cans. So, to wait out the next HD 600 sale or just grab this now.
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Honestly I'm less worried about the price between these three - ie not worried about bang for buck but best sonically. Do a lot of people prefer the HD600 to the HD650? Also, I'm getting the impression that either of those Senns is preferred over the HE-500 by many or most?
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Honestly I'm less worried about the price between these three - ie not worried about bang for buck but best sonically. Do a lot of people prefer the HD600 to the HD650? Also, I'm getting the impression that either of those Senns is preferred over the HE-500 by many or most?
Not simple questions, I will try to be brief.
As between the 600 and 650, there is endless debate and only your personal preference will tell you what is best. That said, hans listened to and measured both, and was able to VERY easily modify the 600 to measure and sound (to him) pretty close to the 650. Unclear if any mod trick would work that other way around (650 to 600 sound). He ended up preferring the 650, so he ditched the 600. I like the 600 for what it does, and find it a very good reference point when listening to other headphones, but the same could be said about the 650 for many. Both InnerFidelity and a thread here about the (non-) obsolescence of the HD600 extol its virtues, but again, that shouldn't really end the inquiry.
The HE500 and HD6x0 is a less simple comparison especially given the rather different bass reproduction between the Senn and the 500. Orthos generally move more air down there, but that is a very general statement, and moar is not always bettar; if you like the bass reproduction coming from the HE-400, I would guess you would find the same from the HE-500 to be anemic. Between the HE500 and the HD600, all I can say is that I sold my 500, and plan to not sell my 600 anytime in the foreseeable future (I haven't owned them at the same time to compare).
My advice (because I wish I had taken it years ago) if you are just getting into higher-fi headphones as you state in the intro thread, is saunter up to the best deal you can get for either of the Sennheisers. They are a great waypoint for very good, fullsized, open-back headphones, and perform at or above their grade depending on how much you pay.
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@aufmerksam Thank you for that awesome reply. That was exactly the kind of feedback I am looking for, and I think very solid advice. I am going to pull the trigger on the Senns. I am realizing that, as you said, they are a dependable waypoint, and conversely it seems that ortho technology is still rapidly improving and therefore may be something to wait a bit on for one's first entry into this range.
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Need some opinions/recommendations for a good pair of Bluetooth/Wireless headphones.
List of preferences (in descending order):
Comfort
Isolation/Leakage
Durability/Longevity (this includes battery life)
Sound
They don't need to sound great, just decent since it will be a gift for someone that has pretty much only used iBuds. Comfort and noise isolation/leakage is a must. It will be used mainly in the office and while traveling (train/plane). Budget is around $200.
Thanks!
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Need some opinions/recommendations for a good pair of Bluetooth/Wireless headphones.
Saw this the other day: http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/bluetooth-headphoneheadset-survey-review (http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/bluetooth-headphoneheadset-survey-review).
I think Austin picked up the MEElectronics.
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Need some opinions/recommendations for a good pair of Bluetooth/Wireless headphones.
List of preferences (in descending order):
Comfort
Isolation/Leakage
Durability/Longevity (this includes battery life)
Sound
They don't need to sound great, just decent since it will be a gift for someone that has pretty much only used iBuds. Comfort and noise isolation/leakage is a must. It will be used mainly in the office and while traveling (train/plane). Budget is around $200.
Thanks!
Meelectronics Air-fi Matrix2 AF62
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Need some opinions/recommendations for a good pair of Bluetooth/Wireless headphones.
List of preferences (in descending order):
Comfort
Isolation/Leakage
Durability/Longevity (this includes battery life)
Sound
They don't need to sound great, just decent since it will be a gift for someone that has pretty much only used iBuds. Comfort and noise isolation/leakage is a must. It will be used mainly in the office and while traveling (train/plane). Budget is around $200.
Thanks!
I picked up the Meelectronics and they are quite good sounding. They are also really comfortable - if the person you're shopping for doesn't have large ears. Their ear cup size falls into the same category as the FSP, MDR-7520, Momentum, etc. But, the headphones are really light and their pads are plenty soft, so even if their ears don't fit perfectly they probably will still be comfortable.
That being said, their isolation for city and transit machine noise is pretty questionable. I can't really use them on the L train due to poor passive isolation, especially low range attenuation. I found myself turning them up too loud to compensate for city noise. I'm really not sure how well they'll work for flying. They hit most of your checkboxes though: wireless, comfortable, durable, and excellent sounding.
Oh, one thing I haven't mentioned in comments before: depending on person's head size and shape, the headband on the Matrix2 AF62 can look pretty squarish when worn. It has a bit of that NAD Viso HP50 headband aesthetic going.
Other than that headphone, I think that the only direction to go from there at near the price point is the Phaiton Chord MS530. (I've seen them on the Amazon Marketplace open box for around $220.) That's quite a bit more expensive, but has better passive isolation and an ANC function that might be better suited for travel purposes. Comfort with those the 530's is hit and miss though. I'd probably give the Meelectronics a go as a gift first.
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I picked up the Meelectronics and they are quite good sounding. They are also really comfortable - if the person you're shopping for doesn't have large ears. Their ear cup size falls into the same category as the FSP, MDR-7520, Momentum, etc.
Doctor says you got a case of the Tylls. Yessir! Gran' pappy's squishy ear, Smurf's jolly pinch. :)p12
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If anyone is looking for a small case for IEMs...
(http://i.imgur.com/gOqQEHF.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/4kHktzX.jpg)
Loved it! Pretty small, solid and have a nice look.
I guess it could fit an UERM and Sansa that most pirates have :)p6
Price? Just US$6.
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Doctor says you got a case of the Tylls. Yessir! Gran' pappy's squishy ear, Smurf's jolly pinch. :)p12
Ha! Using that.
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What's the recommendation for everyday Universal IEMs.
Everyday meaning that I carry them around in my pocket without a case and will plug them un amped into a phone for background music. Comfort, ease of inserting and removing, and sound isolation are key priorities. Sound quality and soundstage are also priorities, but this is back ground listening while on a plane or at work, so I won't be doing any critical listening here.
I've been using shure 535s for this task for the last 4 years or so, but the housing cracked and they are not going to last much longer. I have UERMs but those do not make good every day, throw in your pocket and not care, unamped IEMs. 535s have some flaws on the sound stage side, but I like their other attributes for the every day unamped requirement. I'm tempted to stick with shure and get another pair of 535s or 846s, but want to ask what the pirates would buy based on those requirements.
Budget target is 500-1000.
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I'm tempted to stick with shure and get another pair of 535s or 846s
Call shure and ask the replacement price for out of warranty se535. They are pretty awesome about this, and it is usually a substantial reduction from retail. I haven't had to do this in a LONG time, so it may have changed, but the call is free.
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Appreciate the recommendations guys, will put in my order for the MEE soon. Question for Austin: Do these get hot after some use? That has been a common occurrence I've read about from multiple reviews of Bluetooth headphones in general.
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Appreciate the recommendations guys, will put in my order for the MEE soon. Question for Austin: Do these get hot after some use? That has been a common occurrence I've read about from multiple reviews of Bluetooth headphones in general.
I haven't noticed them being any more hot than any other slightly small-cupped, synthetic pleather-padded over ear. They do make my ears sweat after extended use or walking around. But, not anymore so than any other headphone of it's form factor and pad materials.
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Pyrates,
what's your take on the Asgard 2 versus the Magni 2 Uber? Need to get one for the office and planning to pair with the Modi 2 Uber and the Wyrd. HPs will be orthos - Slants, Audez'e, the HE-4.
Thanks
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First off, I haven't heard the Magni 2 but was never a huge fan of the original. Hopefully it's a big improvement. For the hp's that you mention, I'd be looking at a used lyr (original) for under $300.
GL!!
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Matt, thanks. I have the Lyr 1 which I put in cold storage after the Mjolnir. Time to unpack and bring it to the office.
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what's your take on the Asgard 2 versus the Magni 2 Uber? Need to get one for the office and planning to pair with the Modi 2 Uber and the Wyrd. HPs will be orthos - Slants, Audez'e, the HE-4.
I don't know if anyone has had a chance to compare both of those yet, since the magni2 is so new still. I have the asgard2 and use it to great success with low impedance / low sensitivity cans (orthos, akg). I find the asgard2 to be very clean, thing is dead silent. It has had plenty of power for he 500, 560, and audeze headphones, as well as the k702 I have tried to love twice now.
I am curious how you like the lyr1 with your orthos. I have found I prefer ss amps to tubes (or hybrids) for orthos but I admit I haven't tried so hard in that department
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".....I am curious how you like the lyr1 with your orthos. I have found I prefer ss amps to tubes (or hybrids) for orthos but I admit I haven't tried so hard in that department "
I loved the Lyr1 with my LCD 2.2, not the 3. Its Ok with the LCD-X and the XC. When I bought the Mojo, I did not use any tube amp with the orthos for the longest time. About 4 months ago, i go the Project Ember amp. This little fella has adjustable gain and impedance. I find this amp very good with the orthos, except the HE 6 (but that's a different story).
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What are your thoughts on the Ember, by the way?
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Hey guys,
Casey from LH Labs here. ahoy
Saw the LCD 2 posting and had to jump in since it was on topic. LH Labs is running a bundle deal with Geek Pulse + Audeze LCD-2, LCD-XC & LCD-3 headphones. Deal expires in the next few days so get em' while they last.
http://bit.ly/PulseAudezeBundle (http://bit.ly/PulseAudezeBundle)
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What are your thoughts on the Ember, by the way?
Its a versatile amp, chameleon-like in its ability to reflect the type of tube that one uses. I first used an RCA 12AU7, the sound was on the brighter side with good mids that are forward though and the vocals are very well presented. Nowadays, I use the Amperex Bugle Boy and the sound is a little on the darker side. My DAC is the Uberfrost with the Wyrd. Power is no issue and even the HE-6 comes across as decent but I don't use that HP with anything other than a speaker amp. The HD 800 used to be much brighter compared to my Vali and of course the ZD but with the Anax mod, its tamed enough.
The gain and output resistance settings allow one to customize sound to the extent possible - I use the medium setting for both.
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I am curious how you like the lyr1 with your orthos. I have found I prefer ss amps to tubes (or hybrids) for orthos but I admit I haven't tried so hard in that department
not intending to present the exact opposite for the sake of argument but:
always preferred Lyr 1 over Asgard 2 with HE-500 when all were on deck a year or so ago.
with all of the above gone now, definitely love Lyr 2 (with high quality NOS tubes) with HE-560.
mores than the SS amp in iFi micro iDSD.
in the coming weeks/months will have a Garage1217 Polaris and Pulse Xfi to put the SS-sound to the test with the HE-560 hopefully.
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Merry Christmas gentle folks,
I have a bit of a dilemma on my hands and would love any suggestions from you dear fellow members. It's not really "headphone, IEM" exactly, but I hope it fits under "Other Audio Related Discussion"... If not, well spank me and call me Susan...
My sources: Apple TV (toslink), my cable box (toslink) and my Oppo 105 blu-ray.
My amplification: Naim NAP250. It's about as old as the hills, way back in the olive days. You know, when the Naim 3-pin XLR meant L, R and ground.
My speakers: Kef LS50
I arrived at this setup more or less by chance. The ATV and cable box are connected to the Oppo to perform DAC duties (the ATV goes into a W4S Remedy as Toslink and comes out as coax s/pdif). Originally, this fed a pair of Audioengine A5+ but then I bought a pair of LS50's for basically no reason. So I had to dig up my geriatric NAP250. My Naim Pre (82+SuperCap) made a scratching noise when I turn the knob and the channel balance pot seems weird so I abandoned it and wired the Oppo up to the 250 direct. To be honest, I'm surprised the 250 is still alive and TBH it sounds pretty good so far.
So what more do I need?
Well, the Oppo is connected to the power amp directly and volume is controlled via its digitalness. While it sound pretty good to my ears, the system sounds a bit thin and shallow and the soundstage could be more solid. By thin, I don't mean it lacks bass (or at least I don't think I do) but it's more of a lightness not unlike the difference between my Lehman Linear and my Mjolnir. The former does everything very well, but the mjolnir just has more depth and slam. My apologies for not being able to articulate more clearly, but I hope it's given some indication of what I'm lookng for. (I've spoken to a few people and a few have said that I should use pre amp in between but none of them are familiar with the Oppo. Do I really?)
Also, as I'm now a little nostalgic, I'm sending the Naim stack back to the UK for some rejuvenation or sale depending on diagnosis. So I'll need amplification. The Kef's are something like 85dB (in)sensitive and the brochure says 8 Ohms but apparently it spends quite a lot of its life around 4 Ohms.
I was going to get the Ragnarok but the wife needs a remote controller. It's a real shame, but that's how it is - our cable TV operator can't seem to work out a way to have every channel a similar volume level. I originally planned for a Rag so my budget is around $1.5-$2k...
Anyway, from my feeble googling, these are my options:
1.) Peachtree 220SE - roughly $2k
Pluses:
- Has 2 optical inputs, don't know about quality but at least I can use one remote for source selection and volume control.
- Apparently has ample power for the kef's and most anything I might use them with in the future.
Minuses:
- Single ended-only. The Oppo's specs indicates that the balanced output is "better". I'm not sure how much truth/marketing goes into this, however.
- I can't get a demo. Or at least no within a few months.
- Class D. Again, I've not heard one for a long time. But least I tried, digital amps are not really my cup of tea.
2.) W4S mInt - on a bit of a sale for $1.1k at the moment
Pluses:
- Has 2 s/pdif inputs, same plus as the above.
- Apparently has ample power for the kef's and most anything I might use them with in the future.
- Small and cheap.
- No tube so I don't have to live in fear of it dying if I leave it on all the time, which I tend to do.
Minuses:
- Single ended-only. See above.
- Local dealer a bit useless.
- Class D.
3.) Emotiva XSP-1 + XPA-2 - roughly $1.5k (+ my Gungnir)
Pluses:
- Future expandability???
- 2 x balanced inputs.
- No tube so I don't have to live in fear of it dying if I leave it on all the time, which I tend to do.
Minuses:
- I have to manually select between ATV and cable box. Which is sort of okay but not ideal.
- No local presence and very few (internet) opinions.
- Lots of boxes. May need to Dremel shelf.
4.) Hegel H80 - roughly $2.5k
Pluses:
- Can demo.
- 1 x balanced input for the Oppo
- 2 x optical inputs.
- No tube so I don't have to live in fear of it dying if I leave it on all the time, which I tend to do.
- Small, appears to be wife friendly.
Minuses:
- Most expensive option here.
- Some glowing reviews, but a few saying it's a little boring.
5.) Job 225 - about $1.7k (www.jobsys.com)
Pluses:
- Same operation as before. This saves time training the family. Which normally requires about 3 attempts. Then someone will call me at work telling me the tv went quiet and they don't know why.
- Pretty good names behind it.
- No tube so I don't have to live in fear of it dying if I leave it on all the time, which I tend to do.
- Small, appears to be wife friendly.
Minuses:
- No demo possible.
- Single ended only. If that matters.
As you can probably gather, I'm a bit lost here as there are so many options and each day there seems to be more, specially with people putting dacs, pre's and power amps in any number of permutations. I also know that I'm a bit of a a$$hat when it comes to making decisions. As such, any advice/alternatives/thought/insult/etc. appreciated.
Many thanks in advance.
C
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Hello pirates! In your opinion, what would you qualify as the better bang for the buck for driving the K7XXX / Modded T50RP?
- Magni 2 + Modi 2 (Uber)
- Geek Out 450 + Leckerton UHA-6S.MKII
Thanks in advance.
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Hello pirates! In your opinion, what would you qualify as the better bang for the buck for driving the K7XXX / Modded T50RP?
- Magni 2 + Modi 2 (Uber)
- Geek Out 450 + Leckerton UHA-6S.MKII
Thanks in advance.
The leckerton really isn't that good with full sized headphones compared to the Magni 2U, especially when it comes to less efficient or high impedance headphones. I own the magni 2U, GO 450, and uha-6s. So I think as long as you don't need the portability, the magni 2 and modi 2 would be a better choice for your headphones.
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either way, the NAP250 is due for a recap assuming it's olive or older. depending on the total cost, i would search around to see what s/h prices are fetching. naim gears hold their resale value of any vintage.
if you're shipping for service to the UK i'm assuming you're not in the colonies?
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good "cheap" (~500-600 or so?) DAC+amp for HE-560 possible at all? I mean, it sounds good from a lot of cheap things that I have tried, but I want the best for around that price if possible.
I have had a Vali but it was ringing too much from the tubes, so I don't know if I want to go that route... but I do like a little smooth, just not tubey. not a fan of the cold/sterile sound from the O2 and the likes.
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good "cheap" (~500-600 or so?) DAC+amp for HE-560 possible at all? I mean, it sounds good from a lot of cheap things that I have tried, but I want the best for around that price if possible.
I have had a Vali but it was ringing too much from the tubes, so I don't know if I want to go that route... but I do like a little smooth, just not tubey. not a fan of the cold/sterile sound from the O2 and the likes.
I can't recommend the Gamma 2 highly enough in that price bracket - crazy beautiful tone. It pairs very well with either a Magni 2 Über or a Vali. If the ringing from the Vali was too much for you, go with the M2U and enjoy the added preamp outputs.
Related: By some crazy random happenstance I'm going to have *three* Gamma 2's in my house by Wednesday night. I bought Bill-P's off of him last week not knowing that both my wife and my father-in-law each had already bought me one. facepalm I'll be keeping Bill-P's and selling off the other two later in the week, so if you (or any other pirate) are interested, just shoot me a PM and we can work something out.
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heh, I have had a Gamma2... I shouldn't have sold it, I wasn't too pleased with what I tried after.
I won't be buying for a few weeks though, I just like doing a little research before. so if you still have one and I haven't decided on something else, I might PM you!
is the M2U actually better than an Asgard v2 though? I have not heard the M2U yet, but I thought the Asgard v2 was quite a bit better than the Magni.
it should be within price range still.
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Hey guys I need some help here, I'm trying to find a decent amp/dac :wheel: for my babes a2000x and sa5000 to replace my fiio e10k.
Apparently I'm currently living in an headphones dessert so the only ways to buy is blind buy online. I don't know if I want to go either the cheap route around $400 or trying to mummified myself few months to get the yammy ha-02 or ha5000.
Have anyone test these phones before and which dac/amp will make 2 of those shine the most?
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either way, the NAP250 is due for a recap assuming it's olive or older. depending on the total cost, i would search around to see what s/h prices are fetching. naim gears hold their resale value of any vintage.
if you're shipping for service to the UK i'm assuming you're not in the colonies?
Yeah, the 250 is olive. It, the 82, SuperCap and a CD3 are all going back to the UK. My old dealer will list it on ebay on my behalf if we finally don't feel it's working on. I'm in Thailand, but the Naim stuff were acquired while I was in the UK for school and university. Thinking about how long ago that was is rather frightening…
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is the M2U actually better than an Asgard v2 though? I have not heard the M2U yet, but I thought the Asgard v2 was quite a bit better than the Magni.
it should be within price range still.
The new Magni 2 Uber is quite a bit better than the original Magni. I found the original Magni pretty harsh and fatiguing. That wasn't the case with the new M2U, and the treble in particular seems much improved. With the Magni 1 vs Vali, it was a no brainer. With the M2U vs the Vali...I had to take the whole Schiit-provided return time to decide.
I haven't had a very extended audition with the Asgard 2 - just a few times at meets. If my memory holds, and auditory memory can be pretty sketchy (YMMV, IMO, etc. all that good shit), my impression is that the Asgard 2 does bass slam and low bass control/resolution better than the M2U. I think that the A2 probably has the edge on resolution and detail extraction across the spectrum as well. The biggest difference to me is that the M2U retained some of it's predecessor's sonic thinness (i.e. why I think so many people thought of the Magni as a "bright" amp), where the Asgard 2's sound seems more substantial. It has a bit more weight to it.
Oh, one other thing: I don't think that the M2U gets hot enough. I couldn't use it to effectively keep a muffin warm or to soften up a bagel. I don't trust amps that can't warm a pastry.
Asgard 2 is still worth the $100 difference but the Magni 2 Uber is tailgating it pretty closely.
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With the M2U vs the Vali...I had to take the whole Schiit-provided return time to decide.
And, in the end...?
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Munch: I can't compare to Magni2 Uber, but I have been very pleased with Asgard 2 performance with my HE 560 (and also with my k7xx). My listening preferences are on the analytic side, but it was a huge step up from the O2. It gives great bass slam, and I don't find it cold/sterile. For $250 + shipping I think it is still the deal to beat for low z headphones.
Asgard 2 is still worth the $100 difference but the Magni 2 Uber is tailgating it pretty closely.
Also, if you are willing to be patient, you can find the Asgard 2 b-stock on amazon for less. Schiit sells their b-stock through amazon listings, and asgard 2 is the amp I see most frequently listed as b-stock.
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And, in the end...?
That might be helpful! :)p8 I purchased them at the same time, just after X-Mas. In the end, I stuck with the Vali. With my audio chain (JRMC 20/Audirvana+ > rMBP Toslink Out > Gamma 2 > [Insert Amp Here] > New Production HD600 & Paradox, I personally (because qualifiers) felt like the Vali still sounded better overall. Even with the improvements to Magni, it just wasn't enough. As mentioned above, the M2U kept some of the Magni's thinness and fatiguing qualities, and even with a darker DAC it still seemed more harsh than the *even slightly tonally brighter* Vali. The Vali was smoother sounding without being smoothed over. Vali has better microdetail retrieval; though the Gamma 2 lacks some resolution, and I'm not using a microscope like the HD800, the difference was still noticeable.
Better wasn't better enough. I'll miss the preamp out, but the Vali hasn't lost a step even a year after it's release. M2U is still a crazy great deal though.
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Also, if you are willing to be patient, you can find the Asgard 2 b-stock on amazon for less. Schiit sells their b-stock through amazon listings, and asgard 2 is the amp I see most frequently listed as b-stock.
Definitely this. I camped out the Amazon B-Stock listing for a while (http://www.amazon.com/Asgard-2-Headphone-Amplifier-B-Stock/dp/B00GRYTROI/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top) hoping one would come back in stock.
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Definitely this. I camped out the Amazon B-Stock listing for a while (http://www.amazon.com/Asgard-2-Headphone-Amplifier-B-Stock/dp/B00GRYTROI/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top) hoping one would come back in stock.
I keep this bookmared: http://www.amazon.com/gp/node/index.html?ie=UTF8&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&me=A2MQBWZ25GS6JU&merchant=A2MQBWZ25GS6JU&redirect=true
Glad to hear about the Vali. I've got the Modi 2 U on the way. It won't match the Vali, aesthetically, but I sure do love the Vali sound with my 400i.
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I'm looking for stand with shelves for my audio gear (CDP, DAC, amp, &c.) Which do you recommend and why?
A cursory look a Music Direct here in Chicago shows they sell two brands: Salamander and Boltz. What do y'all think of those?
Also, I know I asked this before, but is there a CD bookcase / shelves that you regard highly? My 1000+ capacity rack has long been completely full and I need something to put the other 1000+ discs into.
Thank much for all your perspectives.
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There are a few Salamander users here and they well regarded, assuming you're talking about the Archetype system. Very flexible and robust.
I'm in the UK so I use Quadraspire, I've been extremely happy with my choice, but it's not as flexible to change as the Salamander system.
I decided to store my CD collection inside a mac Mini. ;) I'm actually in the same boat; I need to find a decent looking rack for my CD collection or commit to storing them out of sight... but it will wait until I design and build out my next listening room.
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all of my CDs and SACDs are ripped which leads to other problems. Recently upgraded my primary NAS since music was taking up more than 4TB of space.
With regard to the salamander racks, they're sturdy and easy to reconfigure as gear gets swapped in and out. For $300, they're pretty decent:
http://www.amazon.com/Salamander-A5-Archetype-5-0-Black/dp/B0006VPUMQ
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The new Magni 2 Uber is quite a bit better than the original Magni. I found the original Magni pretty harsh and fatiguing. That wasn't the case with the new M2U, and the treble in particular seems much improved. With the Magni 1 vs Vali, it was a no brainer. With the M2U vs the Vali...I had to take the whole Schiit-provided return time to decide.
I haven't had a very extended audition with the Asgard 2 - just a few times at meets. If my memory holds, and auditory memory can be pretty sketchy (YMMV, IMO, etc. all that good shit), my impression is that the Asgard 2 does bass slam and low bass control/resolution better than the M2U. I think that the A2 probably has the edge on resolution and detail extraction across the spectrum as well. The biggest difference to me is that the M2U retained some of it's predecessor's sonic thinness (i.e. why I think so many people thought of the Magni as a "bright" amp), where the Asgard 2's sound seems more substantial. It has a bit more weight to it.
Oh, one other thing: I don't think that the M2U gets hot enough. I couldn't use it to effectively keep a muffin warm or to soften up a bagel. I don't trust amps that can't warm a pastry.
Asgard 2 is still worth the $100 difference but the Magni 2 Uber is tailgating it pretty closely.
does the Asgard v2 get hot enough to keep my evening tea warm?
alright, thanks for the informative responses, very much appreciated. I'll see when I'm done moving and such what I end up choosing. :)
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Guys,
Need a little help. I recently bought the Odyssey Stratos Extreme amp and had it refurbished by Klaus who put in the Kismet reference board. Last weekend, I tried the following combo: Laptop-->Gungnir--->Mjolnir (as preamp, balanced preout)--> Odyssey (balanced in). Did not get past the power on stage of the amp. Loud distortion noise, crackling etc. The sound died when I powered the amp off. Then today I replaced the Mojo with the Burson Soloist preamp (RCA out) to the Odyssey (RCA in as well). Great music.
Wondering what the hell is wrong. I used the balanced cables that I normally use to connect the Gungnir to my KGSShv for the preamp to amp connections. Hence I am confused out whether its the cable, the balance connections in the amp or something about the gain in the Mojo. Any and all insights are welcome. Thanks.
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I haven't seen a lot of chatter up here about the Philips X2. I think I saw a mini review up here that seemed to conclude that it sounded pretty good but was ultimately not great due to some graininess in the treble? In any case, I'm curious what people are thinking about this one. Tyll seemed to give a remarkably favorable review, saying that he thought it dethroned the HD600. Thoughts anyone?
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I haven't seen a lot of chatter up here about the Philips X2.
I was reading about them only yesterday. Oh... it was here too, that thread (http://www.changstar.com/index.php?topic=1945.0;topicseen) is in my very next tab to open. They interested me enough to do some other browsing, eg Tyll's review.
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This might be somewhat of a dumb question,
But do 1-2 year old HD800's, Assuming mint condition, sound different compared to a new one?
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No, they sound similar in my experience. If they sound any different from each other, its almost always caused by pad wear.
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My UERM hisses badly with my old iPod 5.5 so I'm wondering if a Leck UHA-6SII will put a stop to that. I listen at very low volumes. Does that seem like a sensible plan?
If so, 1) via line out to which input on the Leck? 2) which opamps should I choose? Thanks.
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My UERM hisses badly with my old iPod 5.5 so I'm wondering if a Leck UHA-6SII will put a stop to that. I listen at very low volumes. Does that seem like a sensible plan?
If so, 1) via line out to which input on the Leck? 2) which opamps should I choose? Thanks.
If you get a Leck for your UERM, make sure it's one that Nick has adjusted the gain down for IEMs. The UHA 6S MKII has a channel imbalance when the pot is at very, very low listening levels. The low gain adjustment will give you some headroom to adjust out of that area. I used it with a iPod gen 5.5 for a while and it really worked nicely.
1) via LO to the 3.5mm mini-plug input in front is fine. That's what I used with GO and ODAC.
2) I liked the 4627-1B, but I only tried out the 8610 and the 4627-1B. So, other people will have way more experience with that.
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Thanks much Austin! :money:
Anyone care to weigh in on the various opamps? :-S
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Quick and dirty question. Do piggyback cables/adapters impact sound quality? Can't find any concrete information if they do or don't.
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Quick and dirty question. Do piggyback cables/adapters impact sound quality? Can't find any concrete information if they do or don't.
There is not a single 'true' answer to this question in the miraculous world of audio depending on views.
In an 'objective' way they won't as electrically (in the analog/audio domain) they can't be of substantial enough influence, unless they do not make proper contact.
Subjectively all bets are off, if you feel/believe/experienced that cables and plugs impact the sound than piggybacks will also impact the sound.
The answer will thus depend on who you ask.
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Awesome, cheers for the prompt answer!
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Anyone care to weigh in on the various Leckerton opamps? :-S
Bump for Leck opamps with UERM. :-\
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So I recently pulled the trigger on a set of HD650's, and I am starting with a magni 2/modi 2 (non ubers). To my somewhat neophyte level of experience this sounds pretty darn good. There is a noticeable improvement with the magni 2/modi 2 over my centrance dacport 1ohm. The dacport seemed to exhibit too much bass, and it sounded less controlled. I am very happy.
People say that the hd650 scales well, so I'm curious to hear opinions about how the magni 2/modi 2 stand with regard to getting the most out of these hp's. Obviously there are better amps/dacs, but is this a reasonable start? What might the next stop be for an upgrade on the amp/dac. How much room for improvement is there?
Any thoughts appreciated!
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I'd still like to know if there were any direct comparisons made between the ada-4627-1A and 1B. I'm still using the 1A right now because I don't know if it was worth forking over $40 for the upgrade. My friend's uha-6s has the 1B in it and I honestly couldn't tell much of a difference between the two. Other than his unit was slightly louder than mine.
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Couple of silly questions:
Does Valhalla 2 do micro-contrast (plankton?) as well as Ragnarok with HD800?
When i looked at Yggy thread Marv said that amp does matter 35% in the chain before HPs? So EC, DNA amps won't matter as much with Yggy?
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The Goal
Now that I've got my portable setup on lockdown (GO450 > Leckerton UHA-6S.MKII, I ended up picking up another one used) I'm looking for a moderately small, reasonably priced desktop unit to use with my Macbook at home.
The Problem
As far as sources go, I picked up a Wyrd + Gamma2/Sigma11 combo. I'm pretty happy with the DAC/transport, but pairing them with a budget desk amp hasn't been as simple as I had hoped.
What I've Tried So Far
- O2 was a bust, because of course it was.
- I picked up a Magni 2 Über, but I found it a bit too tonally bright. (Note: I only had the GO450 to test with the Magni 2 Über. It might be that it would pair just right with the warmer, darker Gamma2. I also had shifted away from a black driver HD580 to a white driver HD600 at the *exact same time* so all three together might just have been too much for me at the moment.)
- I kinda liked the Vali with it, but I couldn't get past the Vali's slightly monotone timbre. Also, I felt like it really lacked staging depth. It made my HD600 seem spatially flat, which was really odd. It didn't seem to do the same with Paradox. Truth be told, I'm not sure what the hell was going on there.
- The Leckerton pairs decently enough with the Gamma2...but it pairs even better with the GO450.
How Not To Become Don Quixote
I haven't exhausted all of my amp options in the sub-$350 desktop amp range yet. Next on my list are the Asgard 2, Project Polaris, and Project Ember. I'm sure there are more out there. But, before I start going on a continuous purchase, small budget amp sample tour, I thought I'd come here for some advice.
The Questions
1. Does anyone have any other general recommendations for quality desktop amps in the sub-$350 range that I don't have covered above? Size of the unit doesn't matter all that much, and I'm always happy to hunt for used/second hand models. The amps need to pair well with both an HD600 and a Paradox. If I were shopping for just an HD600, I'd go for the Crack/Speedball or a Valhalla 2. If I were shopping just for the Paradox, I'd have considered stopping at Vali and calling it good. Thoughts on the options I haven't tried above would also be helpful.
2. Does anyone have any thoughts on the (stock) Geek Pulse vs the Geek Out 450 with regards to how similar/different the DACs on these two sound? Along the same vein, does anyone have any comments on how the Geek Pulse's integrated amplifier performs against other budget desktop amps and/or the Leckerton? The price point for the all-in-one unit is about right. I also happen to think that it would look good on my desk, so it has that going for it too.
Preappreciation
Thanks for any advice/info you can toss in this direction. The fact of the matter is that there are far, far worse places to be "stuck" at than the GO450/Leckerton combo. I'm *hardly* suffering. But I would like something a bit more stationary, and it bugs me to feel more or less half way there.
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I'm finding Asgard 2 makes my HD600 and JH13 sound a little too bassy. Seems fine for HE-560, which I hear as neutral-to-bright.
If I was in your shoes, I'd skip the A2 and go for Ember. Seems very versatile and has good tonality, according to owners.
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I'd still like to know if there were any direct comparisons made between the ada-4627-1A and 1B. I'm still using the 1A right now because I don't know if it was worth forking over $40 for the upgrade. My friend's uha-6s has the 1B in it and I honestly couldn't tell much of a difference between the two. Other than his unit was slightly louder than mine.
The B did sound better, but if you could hardly tell with your setup then spending $40 might not make much sense.
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Thanks. And welcome back. :)
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Thanks. And welcome back. :)
Thanks! Not quite back yet though, few more weeks.
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I swear to Gs, the Ragnarok sounds different when its gain changes from 1-2-3. Even if I tune the volume back to the same level for comparison. The bass sounds stronger and more boomy in Gaines 2-3.
Have I Gone Crazy? Please help me, Messiahs...
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I swear to Gs, the Ragnarok sounds different when its gain changes from 1-2-3. Even if I tune the volume back to the same level for comparison. The bass sounds stronger and more boomy in Gaines 2-3.
Have I Gone Crazy? Please help me, Messiahs...
Nope. Normal. I usually do all my listening (including portable) in high gain for better dynamics. Depends on topology.
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Nope. Normal. I usually do all my listening (including portable) in high gain for better dynamics. Depends on topology.
thank you!
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People say the HE-560 is picky with equipment so what DAc's and amps are considered a good match for these cans? If it helps my budget is around $2k total for DAC and amp.
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I've recently had this urge to pick up a pair of HD650/HD600 after an extended audition at Audio High. I skipped these two models before in the past, but now it's like an itch that I have to scratch.
For someone that already owns the HD800, would the HD650 provide better contrast?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
--Jeff
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I've recently had this urge to pick up a pair of HD650/HD600 after an extended audition at Audio High. I skipped these two models before in the past, but now it's like an itch that I have to scratch.
For someone that already owns the HD800, would the HD650 provide better contrast?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
--Jeff
What amp do u have and what amp did u audition with? What piqued your listening audition in contrast?
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What amp do u have and what amp did u audition with? What piqued your listening audition in contrast?
Well, at the moment, I'm using the HD800 with mostly the Schiit Vali but have the parts for a Bottlehead Crack sitting at my desk. I also recently finished up OPC's "The Wire" from diyAudio. They had a Marantz receiver and the Sennheiser amp, both of which were surprisingly good.
I always read about how neither headphone is as resolving as the HD800, and that you lose a lot of clarity and soundstage. However, when I auditioned them in a non-meet setting, the first thing that surprised me was how smooth they were. To me, both sounded more balanced than the HD800 overall. I found myself actually preferring the way that their treble was presented with strings. I think both were simply a more enjoyable listen than the HD800. I didn't find them boring at all, despite what everybody else says.
The problem is, there are elements of both that I prefer over the other. I guess I'm just trying to figure out which pairing makes more sense. I have the Paradox Slants/Enigma for a closed back at work, and was thinking of picking up the HD600/HD650 while delegating the HD800 for more critical listening sessions like when I want to take apart my chamber group recordings.
Thanks,
--Jeff
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fk it yolo.
Placed order for both HD600 and HD650 and I'll get rid of the one I like less.
Even after HD800 and high end planar magnetics, I feel like I'll still be really happy with either as main headphone.
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I, for one, will be very interested to hear about your impressions. #orderbothyoloftw
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Yeah me too, I want to hear what you think Jeff, I have an old (13-14 years old) pair of HD600 I don't listen to because the pads are deteriorated, I already ordered replacement pads once those come in I'll put them in the rotation, I have the HD800 and HE-6/560 to compare them to.
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How I would love to try the HD800s! Even to get a pair on my ears, let alone plugging in and listening!
After a while of faffing around with my HD600s, I believe I am now very happy with them. As a subjective-nonsense response, I'd say they have a very "hifi" sound, like listening to good speakers a few decades ago, or, indeed, vintage speakers today ---or a few months back was the last time I did--- very rich, sound, perhaps a little bit on the warm side. But hey, they go low, which my previous ATD900s didn't really, so my warmth might be not so much to someone else.
They don't lack detail, but leave me sometimes feeling that I would like more. They certainly have bass, but it wouldn't hurt, perhaps, if it was a little tighter.
Perhaps it just means that I'll never be satisfied, but I think I am ok with the decision that HD800s (or similar cost) would have to wait until my 65th birthday present. There are people who have lived happily with the HD600s for many, many years: I'm sure I can manage three!
My faffing around, by the way, comes under two heads:
--- the passive out[ut on my pre-amp really did not suit. I doubt that they are particularly equipment fussy, but this was a nono. Some impedence stuff I don't understand.
--- I have HF hearing loss, but still have to admit that they sound better without my amateur attempts at EQ, even if that does mean I miss the occasional tinkle or cymbal swish tail.
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Nick,
If you can make it to my office in Nungambakkam, you can hear my HD800 of the Zana Deux.
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Oh sure! Call me there next week. Want to hear my HD600s? Or did you experience those twenty years back? :)
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Haha...never heard the 600. I have the 650. Can you bring them over when you come?
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Does a balanced HD600 offer any advantage over a single ended one? Any amp recommendations up to $1000?
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Haha...never heard the 600. I have the 650. Can you bring them over when you come?
Sure. We'll switch to PM/email/phone on this :)
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Go nuts.
A USB gear / Operating system related question.
Why do most pyrates use Windows instead of Mac for USB source? The WPSI real time kernel driver - windows 8 Jriver etc chain... I assume that is used specifically to achieve a certain quality,
how do I replicate that using Mac? Or, do I actually miss anything if I play songs from Mac's USB?
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Why do most pyrates use Windows instead of Mac for USB source?
More to do with what people are used to. I like linux for music listening.
Although i have a Mac laying around as well, and somehow it doesn't cut it.
Some players on it even have pitch wrong. Like seriously wrong, maybe combined effect with my dac's driver, no idea..
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I assume that is used specifically to achieve a certain quality
I assume that there is a certain amount of nonsense around about computers as a music source (although it is not all nonsense). Mostly, all one wants the operating system to do is to keep its bloody hands off the music. Windows was not always good at that, and that is why the various 3rd-party acronimonious stuff.
It is very true that we use what we are used to. Whilst Apple is said to simply handle audio better, I have had my hands on an Apple device for a grand total of about an hour of my life. I just never happened to go there. And now... well... Unix, DOS, Windows, Linux, Android... I'm just too old an lazy to take on another new system even if it was demonstrably better.
I have given microsoft the boot. That leaves me with Linux on the desktop. I am making absolutely no claims that it is better, but I suspect that, most of the time, it is equally good. The rest of the time, it gives me audible problems with memory management that, according to everything I ever learned about Unix and Linux memory management should not happen. But they do, and it doesn't take an audiophile to hear them.
I doubt, by the way, that there is any such thing as a really-real-time "kernel." PC architecture is simply not real time. Even the Linux "real-time" kernels, as far as I understand it, only prioritise the stuff (eg sound) that we want over other stuff (eg drawing mouse trails on the screen) that is really not important when lost in a symphony.
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I doubt, by the way, that there is any such thing as a really-real-time "kernel." PC architecture is simply not real time. Even the Linux "real-time" kernels, as far as I understand it, only prioritise the stuff (eg sound) that we want over other stuff (eg drawing mouse trails on the screen) that is really not important when lost in a symphony.
Thank you for your detailed response.
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Im building a new gaming-PC, it will be my main audio source. Just wondering if there is any difference between windows 7 and 8.1, you know... sound wise. USB drivers etc.
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Guys,
I tested lest week an LCD-X with my Eddie Curent 445 and I have been so amazed :-00 that.... I just ordered one :D (much better than my TH900 & ED5 ! )
now, I still have the Week-end to decide on the type of earpads: leather or micro-suede. Which one you recommend ?
(I really did not like confort (weight mainly) of the LCD-X, but...it sound sooooo good !)
thanks in advance for your advices.
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Recommend the pads that you heard it with. This is because the pads will make the LCD-X sound slightly different. So if you use leather pads in your evaluation, safest bet is to use leather.
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" Recommend the pads that you heard it with. This is because the pads will make the LCD-X sound slightly different. So if you use leather pads in your evaluation, safest bet is to use leather. "
I did not think about this, but... you may be right ! :)p15
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Just bought myself a lightly used DNA Sonett. I'm in the market for some new headphones. Apart from the HD800, which headphones match well with this amp?
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" Recommend the pads that you heard it with. This is because the pads will make the LCD-X sound slightly different. So if you use leather pads in your evaluation, safest bet is to use leather. "
I did not think about this, but... you may be right ! :)p15
I did no A/B Comparisons so I can't comment on the sound difference, but I had both and found microsuede to be more comfortable and less hot.
I also had 6 different audeze's at home and didn't keep any of them. Sold it every time after a few weeks because of comfort issues. But if you can manage it the sound will be worth it !!!
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Just bought myself a lightly used DNA Sonett. I'm in the market for some new headphones. Apart from the HD800, which headphones match well with this amp?
HD600 is an excellent match with Donald's gear, but you might be looking for a different sound to complement the HD800's. Price?
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HD600 is an excellent match with Donald's gear, but you might be looking for a different sound to complement the HD800's. Price?
Up to $1000. Was thinking the HE-560 or Oppo PM-2 but not sure they'll match well with the Sonett.
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Oppos don't require anything more than an O2 amp or a basic Fiio. They can't resolve the noise off a turntable.
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I tried oppo in a store and I would probably like a hd6X0 or he560 better. Maybe it's just my personal taste but I found oppo a bit muddy.
Do you think Layla could become e serious competitor for uerm so that I should wait with ordering uerm?
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For those who have heard it, how does the HP1 compare with some of the other changstar beloveds? What's a good price for one nowadays and does it play nice with a BA (every Grado I've owned did, but still didn't like any of them enough to keep)?
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I tried oppo in a store and I would probably like a hd6X0 or he560 better. Maybe it's just my personal taste but I found oppo a bit muddy.
Do you think Layla could become e serious competitor for uerm so that I should wait with ordering uerm?
Bingo.
Haven't heard the Layla. I might wait on the UERM too since I have an update about some unresolved issues with UE regarding UERM consistency incoming.
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All you really get from better (well, maybe just different types of) amps with the Oppos is a more powerful or thicker sound. They can sound thinner than usual from other sources IME. Other than that, not a whole lot of scaling room beyond that unless you run them from something horrible. Not pointing to any specific mod method, but I do think the Oppos have some room to grow with mods...it's just a hassle when you could get something that works great right away instead.
Personally, you'd be better off with something like an HD600 or 650, since you're not trying to maximize a simple portable setup or something. And if there's something about those you don't like, usually you can tweak them with very simple damping mods to suit your tastes (very few fall into this category). I really couldn't stand the 560 I heard, but that's me. I know a lot of guys love them.
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Anax,
You've heard the HP1 right? Hell, you heard everything. Are they worth the 2k price they command?
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Anax,
You've heard the HP1 right? Hell, you heard everything. Are they worth the 2k price they command?
I own an HP1. In fact it's one of the most neutral measured HP-1's in stock form. Tari also has a set as his go to primary phones for daily use. Marv and LFF had HP-1's.
Price wise, it's inherently more neutral than most dynamics on the market except for perhaps a slight midbass accentuation on many units but it's not a resolution champ like the HD800 but does well enough considering. I'd put it's resolution at some better mid-fi planars. I could never justify $2K on those points alone myself, but I can and did justify it as one of the most perfectly tuned by ear phones in history with limited production and historical significance.
I don't listen to mine much as the HD800 is my primary and my rig is built around it, but I'll probably never sell my pair of HP-1's.
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CEE TEE was enamored with my pair of HP1Ks.
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Oppos don't require anything more than an O2 amp or a basic Fiio. They can't resolve the noise off a turntable.
Interesting. Looks like I'll stick with the HD600.
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I own an HP1. In fact it's one of the most neutral measured HP-1's in stock form. Tari also has a set as his go to primary phones for daily use. Marv and LFF had HP-1's.
Price wise, it's inherently more neutral than most dynamics on the market except for perhaps a slight midbass accentuation on many units but it's not a resolution champ like the HD800 but does well enough considering. I'd put it's resolution at some better mid-fi planars. I could never justify $2K on those points alone myself, but I can and did justify it as one of the most perfectly tuned by ear phones in history with limited production and historical significance.
I don't listen to mine much as the HD800 is my primary and my rig is built around it, but I'll probably never sell my pair of HP-1's.
Thanks, doesn't sound like a ringing endorsement. If these are anything as comfortable as the RS1, I'll get rid of them the same day. To this day the only headphones I cannot bear to have on my ears are Grados. While admittedly I don't place the same emphasis on resolution as you do, it's the supposed perfect tonality that has always had me itching for a pair.
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Tari and I have modded pairs.
I LOVE mine. It's one of the most engaging listens I've had. The only reason it gets less head time is that I spend most of my time with speakers now.
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Tari and I have modded pairs.
I LOVE mine. It's one of the most engaging listens I've had. The only reason it gets less head time is that I spend most of my time with speakers now.
Sounds good. From what I've read the ZD and BA are good matches, so I'll give it a go.
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Has anyone purchased an amp from Birgir's company? I'm a little, how should we say, baffled by the repeating listings in the f/s at that other place.
Usually, when someone shells out a lot of money to buy a KGSSHV, KGST, BH it's for the long run, for obvious reasons. It's not like you can turn around and pick up a BHSE from your friendly headamp corner-mart, in the event you don't like your 727. Just wondering if I missed a memo or something, because I just keep reading comments like "bought two months ago, great amp...". If it is so great, why aren't they keeping them and what are they replacing them with?
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Relatively noobish question...What happens when I can't turn the volume knob even from 7 oclock (starting point) to 8-830 without the volume becoming unbearably loud?
I feel like the headphones are being driven sufficiently by the amp, but there's almost no wiggle-room with the volume. In contrast, the Lyr feels like it gets loud but it feels like I have SOME headroom to crank the volume.
The amp in question is a monster receiver (Kenwood KR-9400) and the headphones are HD600.
Thanks!
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What happens? Nothing really... it's just too much gain on the amp for those headphones. Simple fix would be to turn down your source or use an in-line attenuator.
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What happens? Nothing really... it's just too much gain on the amp for those headphones. Simple fix would be to turn down your source or use an in-line attenuator.
Hmm, something like this?
http://schiit.com/products/sys
Thanks!
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That would work... but it would be simpler just to turn down the volume on your source if possible. These work too: http://www.parts-express.com/harrison-labs-12-db-rca-line-level-audio-attenuator-pair--266-244
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Can't really do it with the source (it's a Sony HAP-S1, no way to control the volume out of it). These will work on the signal coming out of the DAC, correct? Either way, it appears to be about a $50 investment. Not too bad a fix.
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It's not this thing? http://www.sony.co.uk/electronics/audio-components/hap-s1
Looks like a big volume knob right on the front.
Anyhow, those attenuators are sold in pairs, so really just $26 and you're good to go. You can get them at different attenuation levels (3 and 6 dB), but 12dB is probably the best bet if you're struggling for wiggle room on the knob. The Schiit Sys or Emotiva Control Freak or Fostex PC1EX are also cheap options.
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The volume knob doesn't affect the output signal. Most of the time, I have the volume turned all the way down. The Sony unit is the the source/DAC and the signal runs into my amp (although the headphone amp onboard isn't TOO bad, surprisingly...I've heard much worse/underpowered/afterthought HP amps. It has some decent bass slam to it).
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fk it yolo.
Placed order for both HD600 and HD650 and I'll get rid of the one I like less.
Even after HD800 and high end planar magnetics, I feel like I'll still be really happy with either as main headphone.
I picked up SoupRKnowva's HD650s after the sale price was declined... Arrived today!
Still waiting on the HD600s... >.<
I've also gotten off my lazy ass and put together the Bottlehead Crack this last weekend in anticipation for the HD650.
I've been listening for 5 hours straight, even though I have work tomorrow... This is still stock Crack with no Speedball upgrade.
Damn, these sound so smooth. Much easier listen than the HD800...Haven't put anything else on my head at all today.
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Just got a Sonett (mk1) and I have a few questions. Firstly, it sounds absolutely fantastic. I'm using it with my Zero Carbo Tenore IEM's until my new cans arrive. I noticed I need to turn up the volume to about 6. Is this normal for efficient IEM's? How much will I need to turn up the volume with 300ohm Senns and 600ohm Beyers? I also noticed they're doesn't seem to be a change in volume when switching from low to IEC. Is this normal? I'm using stock rectifier and 6H30D-PR. Thanks.
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Tari and I have modded pairs.
I LOVE mine. It's one of the most engaging listens I've had. The only reason it gets less head time is that I spend most of my time with speakers now.
Spent a very short amount of time with a pair today. Definitely doesn't have a wow factor and is awfully fuzzy next to an HD800. Doesn't have that particular Grado energy that other pairs I've owned shared. In other words, they are very similar to how I first felt about the 007's (minus the lack of transparency). This out of a Spectral/BA.
The 007's are, today, among my favorite listens, however, so here's to the HP1's following suit.
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Thinking of selling off my HE-560s and HD600 in favour of Slants. The 560s are generally great, and I now find my HD600s boring + lacking bass impact because of them; however, there are some songs where the treble is harsh on the 560.
I'll admit: I don't know if this is simply the 560 being revealing of mastering/recording flaws. Maybe I just need to stop being a baby and accept that I have crap taste in music.
Slants, if I get 'em, will be powered by Uberfrost + Asgard 2. What do ye pirates think? Is this a wise move, or sheer madness?
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I have both the he-560s and hd600s right now and I prefer using the hd600s even though the he-560s have better technicalities. The hd600s are much more easy to listen to and a lot less picky with amps and sources.
You can try modding the he-560s to get them to sound a bit less bright, or perhaps you can just get used to the hd600's sound again (which I did).
The slants are really nice. I was able to borrow a pair and really liked them but honestly, they won't replace open headphones.
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I really enjoy the 560's rendition of bass and string instruments, it's just the occasional brightness (which really only seems to crop up with modern pop) that gets to me.
What did you like about the Slants? I would like the isolation (I have a noisy fan in the room), and I don't really hear soundstage on headphones well.
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The HE-560's make me sad. They finally address the problem I have with basically all orthos (fit/weight/comfort) and then they report it has brightness issues. I would have gladly taken the fit of the HE-560 with the sound of the HE-500 (a headphone I enjoyed, but couldn't wear for long periods of time).
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Any second opinions on the aurisonics rockets? Been looking at it because of my persistent bad luck for iem durability.
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The HE-560's make me sad. They finally address the problem I have with basically all orthos (fit/weight/comfort) and then they report it has brightness issues. I would have gladly taken the fit of the HE-560 with the sound of the HE-500 (a headphone I enjoyed, but couldn't wear for long periods of time).
It hasn't sounded bright to me, and I'm no less sensitive to treble troubles than anyone else. It did, however, sound somewhat aggressive but it didn't seem to me that any particular range caused that effect.
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I really enjoy the 560's rendition of bass and string instruments, it's just the occasional brightness (which really only seems to crop up with modern pop) that gets to me.
What did you like about the Slants? I would like the isolation (I have a noisy fan in the room), and I don't really hear soundstage on headphones well.
The thing that I liked most was that the Slants played well with all of my music, and had a nice little boost to the bass that made some genres fun to listen to. They're also very comfortable!
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With the GO 450 priced at $129 on Massdrop, I've been thinking about my first dedicated DAC and having the option of using my HD600s in a transportable setup. I have a few questions if anyone has the time to help me out?
- As far as sound quality, how would the GO 450 compare to the Modi2/Wyrd setup? I'm interested in the Modi2 uber so that I can use my Creative Soundblaster Omni soundcard with it (for virtual surround). But the idea of being able to use my HD600s away from my desk if I wish is also quite tempting. As for desktop use whatever I buy with be paired with my Vali amp.
- Would Wyrd really make a difference in the sound of the Modi2 if I'm not currently having USB noise issues? My Macbook Pro 2014 was giving me trouble with the Omni before, but it seems to have been fixed when I updated to Yosemite.
- Has anyone tried the Schiit Fulla with the HD600s? If I decide to shell out for the Modi2 uber I might consider that as a transportable option.
- Extra: If I've been lurking enough, the usual suspects for good budget-ish iems are the Tenores, DBA-02s, and the RE400s. Which model would have the most reliable build quality? The cable on my Etymotic HF2s was splitting, eventually exposing good bit of wire. I could also get the ER4 for $179, but from what I understand it doesn't play well with lesser sources like my Clip+ or worse, my smartphone.
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Does anyone have any experience with Adcom's PCM1702-based CD players and Dac's? I've read some conflicting reports them (some people saying they sound bright in their systems), but they are reasonably cheap on the used market. Considering the GDA600 or GDA700 as a NOS DAC without breaking the bank or taking on too much risk (that is, if the thing craps out in a few weeks).
Anyone have any suggestions for a decent NOS DAC in the $400-$500 range? A little added warmth is fine, mainly looking for imaging while trying to avoid cold/sterile (aka so many modern delta sigma-based DAC's)
(and yes, I'm tempted to grab marvey's Theta, but not comfortable with the reliability factor of older DAC's)
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Just got a Sonett (mk1) and I have a few questions. Firstly, it sounds absolutely fantastic. I'm using it with my Zero Carbo Tenore IEM's until my new cans arrive. I noticed I need to turn up the volume to about 6. Is this normal for efficient IEM's? How much will I need to turn up the volume with 300ohm Senns and 600ohm Beyers? I also noticed they're doesn't seem to be a change in volume when switching from low to IEC. Is this normal? I'm using stock rectifier and 6H30D-PR. Thanks.
Pretty normal with Sonett. Even with sensitive IEM's you get to use a significant portion of the volume pot, which is a good thing. About same range of volume pot usage with Senn HD650 and HD800 headphones if I remember correctly.
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Dear people,
I have been doing some silent reading in this forum and this topic of vintage DACs with ladder chips are interesting me. Is anyone familiar with the Parasound 1100HD? I think I have a chance to buy one but the problem is it has been modified, I'm not sure about the technical details but its analogue stage has been replaced with a discrete part.
If it helps, IIRC this is the original sales ad: http://www.head-fi.org/t/548272/fs-modded-parasound-dac-1100-hd
As always I thank you people for your kind advice.
Regards,
Jeremiah
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Dear people,
I have been doing some silent reading in this forum and this topic of vintage DACs with ladder chips are interesting me. Is anyone familiar with the Parasound 1100HD? I think I have a chance to buy one but the problem is it has been modified, I'm not sure about the technical details but its analogue stage has been replaced with a discrete part.
If it helps, IIRC this is the original sales ad: http://www.head-fi.org/t/548272/fs-modded-parasound-dac-1100-hd
As always I thank you people for your kind advice.
Regards,
Jeremiah
Item was sold 4 years ago. :(
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With the GO 450 priced at $129 on Massdrop, I've been thinking about my first dedicated DAC and having the option of using my HD600s in a transportable setup. I have a few questions if anyone has the time to help me out?
- As far as sound quality, how would the GO 450 compare to the Modi2/Wyrd setup? I'm interested in the Modi2 uber so that I can use my Creative Soundblaster Omni soundcard with it (for virtual surround). But the idea of being able to use my HD600s away from my desk if I wish is also quite tempting. As for desktop use whatever I buy with be paired with my Vali amp.
- Would Wyrd really make a difference in the sound of the Modi2 if I'm not currently having USB noise issues? My Macbook Pro 2014 was giving me trouble with the Omni before, but it seems to have been fixed when I updated to Yosemite.
- Has anyone tried the Schiit Fulla with the HD600s? If I decide to shell out for the Modi2 uber I might consider that as a transportable option.
- Extra: If I've been lurking enough, the usual suspects for good budget-ish iems are the Tenores, DBA-02s, and the RE400s. Which model would have the most reliable build quality? The cable on my Etymotic HF2s was splitting, eventually exposing good bit of wire. I could also get the ER4 for $179, but from what I understand it doesn't play well with lesser sources like my Clip+ or worse, my smartphone.
Ended up going for the GO 450, the $129.99 price was just too good to pass up. Plus I was starting to have doubts about the Fulla's ability to drive the HD600s adequately. No idea how it will pair with the Vali using the DAC only, but if nothing else it seemed like a good all-in-one portable option.
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- Has anyone tried the Schiit Fulla with the HD600s? If I decide to shell out for the Modi2 uber I might consider that as a transportable option.
- Extra: If I've been lurking enough, the usual suspects for good budget-ish iems are the Tenores, DBA-02s, and the RE400s. Which model would have the most reliable build quality? The cable on my Etymotic HF2s was splitting, eventually exposing good bit of wire. I could also get the ER4 for $179, but from what I understand it doesn't play well with lesser sources like my Clip+ or worse, my smartphone.
If you're looking for a super reliable pair, the RE400s probably aren't it unless they changed something about the build quality since I last owned them. They sound good, but the left channel cut out within 2 weeks on me so I've never gone back. If you're looking for a fun sound, I quite like the RHA 750 and T10.
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If you're looking for a super reliable pair, the RE400s probably aren't it unless they changed something about the build quality since I last owned them. They sound good, but the left channel cut out within 2 weeks on me so I've never gone back. If you're looking for a fun sound, I quite like the RHA 750 and T10.
Only two weeks? That doesn't sound promising. Thanks for the heads up! I guess I could always re-buy what I had, or wait a while and see what comes out. The IEM market seems to be growing at a breakneck speed.
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- Extra: If I've been lurking enough, the usual suspects for good budget-ish iems are the Tenores, DBA-02s, and the RE400s. Which model would have the most reliable build quality? The cable on my Etymotic HF2s was splitting, eventually exposing good bit of wire. I could also get the ER4 for $179, but from what I understand it doesn't play well with lesser sources like my Clip+ or worse, my smartphone.
I've used RE400 for an hour 3x/week at work for 9 months and it's still fine, but I've read too many cases of cable failure so don't take the chance. Tenores are built better but can develop channel imbalances. Although that can be fixed, I can't recommend a product with that sort of problem. ER4 is a real hassle to get right.
Bottom line: for build quality, I would go with one of the GR07s--probably the BE. If necessary, see if you can modulor mod it with a tiny piece of felt behind the eartip. Best luck!
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I've used RE400 for an hour 3x/week at work for 9 months and it's still fine, but I've read too many cases of cable failure so don't take the chance. Tenores are built better but can develop channel imbalances. Although that can be fixed, I can't recommend a product with that sort of problem. ER4 is a real hassle to get right.
Bottom line: for build quality, I would go with one of the GR07s--probably the BE. If necessary, see if you can modulor mod it with a tiny piece of felt behind the eartip. Best luck!
Thanks! I'll look more into them, I've think I've read a lot of good things about them.
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Item was sold 4 years ago. :(
Hello GoldfishX,
I understand. I apologize if my post is not clear, I mean I may have chance to buy the DAC from the current owner. I am just a bit worried about endurance issue since the DAC is almost 20 years old.
Regards,
Jeremiah
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ok Pyrates, make me
walk the plank
flat out love Lyr 2 with HE-560. especially now with an amazing hand-made Litz cable from a secret friend.
DAC = Concero HD likely replaced with a BiFrost Uber USB v3 soon, unless:
would it be completely stupid to have a Wyrd+Gungnir, but use SE cabling into Lyr 2?
have I just discarded the balanced topology greatness of Gung and shoved audio into the lesser, small RCA holes of Lyr 2?
get a Mjo amp and don't be dumb or ?
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I might wait on the UERM too since I have an update about some unresolved issues with UE regarding UERM consistency incoming.
Any update on this problem?
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Any update on this problem?
Yes, unfortunately it's not a positive one. I'll cobble something together today to explain. It's a long story...
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I'll look forward to hearing about this problem as well. Thanks!
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Yes, unfortunately it's not a positive one. I'll cobble something together today to explain. It's a long story...
Looking forward to it. Thanks.
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- Extra: If I've been lurking enough, the usual suspects for good budget-ish iems are the Tenores, DBA-02s, and the RE400s. Which model would have the most reliable build quality? The cable on my Etymotic HF2s was splitting, eventually exposing good bit of wire. I could also get the ER4 for $179, but from what I understand it doesn't play well with lesser sources like my Clip+ or worse, my smartphone.
Get the ER4P if you're using it with a phone or Clip. Its an HF with better extension on both ends, better build, and a replaceable cable.
If you really want to stay below $200, I'd go with the DBA-02, personally, for that type of sound signature.
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Get the ER4P if you're using it with a phone or Clip. Its an HF with better extension on both ends, better build, and a replaceable cable.
If you really want to stay below $200, I'd go with the DBA-02, personally, for that type of sound signature.
I considered the DBA-02 and the B2 but I'm having a hard time finding them for sale anywhere. I wonder if they've been discontinued?
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One of there suppliers went down?
Anyway, how is Dan's new Ether? Pretty pricey at $1.5k (or 1.8k after $ exchange).
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hello,
what is the best bang for the buck ortho? or what is the least expensive ortho that is acceptable?
looking for new, but would considered used if the value is there. firmly stuck in mid-fi land (and price.)
all thumbs, so modding is most likely not an option,
any help greatly appreciated
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Hey, everyone.
I'm looking to upgrade my IEMs. I'm currently using a GR07 with parametric EQ, but I've found that equalizing the treble still doesn't completely correct the experience. I'm looking for a similar bass response, with may just a little more sub bass and a little less mid bass and a less sibilant treble experience.
I'd prefer for them to be relatively neutral. Something that I can use without EQ or something that can be brought to neutral with EQ without using tons and tons of filters.
I'm looking for new, but am willing to look at used items if I can get better performance or features for the money. Budget is ~$400.
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Getting new fullsized closed cans again. I wonder which one is the best I can get for under 200 bucks.
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hello,
sorry if i wasn't as specific as i should have been.
preference is for open back, not planning on using as a portable, budget up to $600? less would be better.
what i may be asking for is impossible, perhaps i should have said best entry level orthos to get a taste of their sound.
thanks all
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preference is for open back, not planning on using as a portable, budget up to $600? less would be better.
Used HE500 if you can tolerate the size and weight distribution (I can't--it feels like wearing a cage). Otherwise, HE400i. Buying a Hifiman is also a good way to get into modding.
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Could some kind soul please point me towards good info on modding my HE-6 please? I understand there's a thread going, but it seems to be more focused on working on the headband without a lot of info on the felt/etc that have been tried.
Much appreciated,
C
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Getting new fullsized closed cans again. I wonder which one is the best I can get for under 200 bucks.
I would like to hear some opinions on this as well. When I looked into full sized closed cans about a year ago, I demo'd the dt770, ath m50, and the Shure srh840. I liked and purchased the Shures. But that's just me. I like their mids and treble.
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Could some kind soul please point me towards good info on modding my HE-6 please? I understand there's a thread going, but it seems to be more focused on working on the headband without a lot of info on the felt/etc that have been tried.
Much appreciated,
C
You can apply most of the HE-500 mods from the jerg thread on hifi. The major one is the fuzzor mod really, and of course the grill mod, those two are major. The grill mod is the easiest and least time consuming. Google "jerg fuzzor he-500" or "jerg grill mod he-500".
These two mods are very easy, simple, just time consuming. Jerg did a REALLY thorough job of documenting it so anyone can do it. Lots of pics.
Other mods including playing around with pads, either focus-a pads or using the Audeze of J$ pads or whatever.
The most comfortable mod I did was too get a suspension band from thailand and put that on, look on eBay for hifiman suspension band and you'll find it.
The one mod I haven't done yet is to take the drivers out and put them in a HE-400i or HE-560 housing because the original headband really sucks.
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You can apply most of the HE-500 mods from the jerg thread on hifi. The major one is the fuzzor mod really, and of course the grill mod, those two are major. The grill mod is the easiest and least time consuming. Google "jerg fuzzor he-500" or "jerg grill mod he-500".
These two mods are very easy, simple, just time consuming. Jerg did a REALLY thorough job of documenting it so anyone can do it. Lots of pics.
Other mods including playing around with pads, either focus-a pads or using the Audeze of J$ pads or whatever.
The most comfortable mod I did was too get a suspension band from thailand and put that on, look on eBay for hifiman suspension band and you'll find it.
The one mod I haven't done yet is to take the drivers out and put them in a HE-400i or HE-560 housing because the original headband really sucks.
Much, much appreciated :)
I'm in Thailand myself so looks like the headband will be the first mod on the list!!
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Much, much appreciated :)
I'm in Thailand myself so looks like the headband will be the first mod on the list!!
The original listing is gone, but you can contact the seller about offering a hifiman version, it's just with a shorter rubber band:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Premium-Grade-Leather-Suspension-Strap-for-Audeze-LCD-Headphones-Black-/181701757624?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a4e44cab8 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Premium-Grade-Leather-Suspension-Strap-for-Audeze-LCD-Headphones-Black-/181701757624?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a4e44cab8)
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I think I want a CIEM. Even though the HD800 is the most comfortable full-size headphone I've ever owned, the size and weight are starting to wear on me.
I also think the shape of my ear is different enough on each side that it is having an effect on how I perceive sound with large headphones. Things on the left side sound like they're closer to my ear, while the right sounds farther away and more forward. I notice this with full-sized headphones, not just the HD800. When I use IEMs, like my Pistons, the effect is greatly reduced. In fact, there have been many times where I think I have preferred the presentation of sound from my IEMs.
For sound, I'm an unabashed detail whore. I want to hear absolutely every miniscule detail in my music. I generally like the way the stock HD800s sound, but I wouldn't mind less treble energy, especially in that region that seems to sometimes cause female vocals to have an almost ringing effect. More "coherence" (is that the right word?) would also be preferable.
Bass is also important. Having at least as much quantity, detail, and extension down low as the HD800 would be ideal. I listen to a wide variety of music, so a CIEM that's peaky or has a limited genre performance envelope is not something I would be interested in. Soundstage isn't that vital to me.
Right now the two top contenders are the Ultimate Ear Reference Monitors and the Noble K10. I'm attracted to the UERM because of price and neutrality, but the K10 has so much universal acclaim as the "best" CIEM currently available that I can't ignore it. In fact, multiple people I've talked to about this online have told me directly that they preferred the K10 to the HD800.
My amp is a Schiit Mjolnir, so I would need a balanced cable, though I am open to selling the amp if something else would be a better choice for a CIEM. I really like it, though, and I paid less than $500 for it. I just don't know where to actually get a cable.
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For resolution HD800>UERM>K10. Not really a contest unless your HD800 rig is holding it back.
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For resolution HD800>UERM>K10. Not really a contest unless your HD800 rig is holding it back.
I've only got a modi 2/wyrd right now feeding the mjolnir, but I plan on either getting a gungnir or yggy sometime soon.
Your point about resolution makes me lean heavily towards the UERMs now. Do they scale with better gear, or do they have a lower ceiling?
I really wish I had decided to go this route over the weekend. UE had a 25% off coupon.
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I've got a shiny SET speaker amp coming in in the next few days (2wpc max power, 6sn7 driving 1940's globe 45s), and I'd like to use it with something other than orcas and planar magentic headphones. If I wanted to use my HD 800's with it, what would I need to do to step down the output power so I don't blow out my eardrums?
If you need more information, I can post it here, and if I don't have it off hand I'll ask the builder about it.
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I have Hd800 hooked up to a 25w speaker amp right now. Lots of hiss, but otherwise quite nice. If the speaker amp has potentiometer then you are probably fine.
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I've only got a modi 2/wyrd right now feeding the mjolnir, but I plan on either getting a gungnir or yggy sometime soon.
Your point about resolution makes me lean heavily towards the UERMs now. Do they scale with better gear, or do they have a lower ceiling?
I really wish I had decided to go this route over the weekend. UE had a 25% off coupon.
Best scaling in an item Ive heard so far.
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I have Hd800 hooked up to a 25w speaker amp right now. Lots of hiss, but otherwise quite nice. If the speaker amp has potentiometer then you are probably fine.
I'm using a preamp for the volume control, though I might look into some large resistors or something else later see if I can lower the noise floor a bit.
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I'm using a preamp for the volume control, though I might look into some large resistors or something else later
I have a mental picture...
"Can you turn the volume down a bit?"
"Sure: give me a hand lugging that big resister over there and wiring it in..."
:)p13
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Best scaling in an item Ive heard so far.
I'm gonna buy it. Anyone know how to get an XLR cable?
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Can anyone recommend a decent Y-cable (lineout to RCA)? I tried a Monster branded cable and it basically smothered the life out of my music and I'm back to using my regular cable. Sub-$100 please.
Thx!
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Can anyone recommend a decent Y-cable (lineout to RCA)? I tried a Monster branded cable and it basically smothered the life out of my music and I'm back to using my regular cable. Sub-$100 please.
Thx!
Blue Jeans MSA-1 Audio Cable (http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/audio/index.htm).
I've been using one for the better part of two years and love it. Excellent quality sound, durable, and inexpensive. Also, you can select the length you'd like.
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I've got a couple of questions:
1) Does anyone make a decent optical -> coax or optical -> BNC box? I'd like to plug my TV-out and an airport express into the Yggy when it comes out, but those both use optical and there's only one on the Yggy.
2) Who makes a decent (and not too expensive) balanced headphone cable extender. I'm thinking like 10'. And is that just stupid because it will degrade the quality far too much?
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1.1 wyred4sound remedy
1.2 audio-gd (cannot remember model)
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I have a mental picture...
"Can you turn the volume down a bit?"
"Sure: give me a hand lugging that big resister over there and wiring it in..."
:)p13
Lol, that would be rather funny, I was thinking about a cheap enclosure with some step-down transformers/autoformers. And then I thought to myself "This is a lot of work for almost no return. I'll just be really careful with the volume and wire up a speaker taps to 4-pin XLR adapter." Now I'm just waiting on the parts...
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I gave my grandpa my Geek Out 450 (I have a 1000). Just gave him my old iPhone too and he's excited about Spotify. He has an old pair of headphones, Audio Technica ATH-909. They seem pretty generic.
He has a birthday coming up and my grandma mentioned headphones as an idea. So what would be a good, affordable headphone to pair with his GO450 and the headphone jack on an iPhone 4? HD558 or 598? Used Fidelio of some sort?
I'm planning on taking over my Focal Pro and HD600 to see if he likes the fairly neutral sound or prefers open vs closed but I figure it would be best to have something that can be driven by the phone as well (which makes me wish the Focals, NAD & B&W were all half the price!)
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If your grandpa has any age-related hearing loss, the Sennheisers might be a bit too mellow. My dad likes the HD598 I gave him because they sound cleaner, but the closed superlux (with some rough treble peaks) do sometimes sound more "crispy" to him and make it easier for him to hear vocals.
On open vs closed... does grandma call for him often? My dad gets in trouble when he has his closed headphones on and doesn't hear mom calling, hence why he switched to open ::)
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I think I want a CIEM. Even though the HD800 is the most comfortable full-size headphone I've ever owned, the size and weight are starting to wear on me.
I also think the shape of my ear is different enough on each side that it is having an effect on how I perceive sound with large headphones. Things on the left side sound like they're closer to my ear, while the right sounds farther away and more forward. I notice this with full-sized headphones, not just the HD800. When I use IEMs, like my Pistons, the effect is greatly reduced. In fact, there have been many times where I think I have preferred the presentation of sound from my IEMs.
For sound, I'm an unabashed detail whore. I want to hear absolutely every miniscule detail in my music. I generally like the way the stock HD800s sound, but I wouldn't mind less treble energy, especially in that region that seems to sometimes cause female vocals to have an almost ringing effect. More "coherence" (is that the right word?) would also be preferable.
Bass is also important. Having at least as much quantity, detail, and extension down low as the HD800 would be ideal. I listen to a wide variety of music, so a CIEM that's peaky or has a limited genre performance envelope is not something I would be interested in. Soundstage isn't that vital to me.
Right now the two top contenders are the Ultimate Ear Reference Monitors and the Noble K10. I'm attracted to the UERM because of price and neutrality, but the K10 has so much universal acclaim as the "best" CIEM currently available that I can't ignore it. In fact, multiple people I've talked to about this online have told me directly that they preferred the K10 to the HD800.
My amp is a Schiit Mjolnir, so I would need a balanced cable, though I am open to selling the amp if something else would be a better choice for a CIEM. I really like it, though, and I paid less than $500 for it. I just don't know where to actually get a cable.
I ended up ordering the UERMs today. Impressions are already on their way to UE.
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I've tried a few SABRE DACs (like the Matrix X-Sabre, DA8) and I found the Anedio D2 to be the least strident/harsh out of all but now over the years the lackluster treble kinda bothers me.
I'm amping the HD 800 via the Schiit Valhalla 2.
What do you guys suggest? "Sidegrade" money-wise and get a non-Sabre? Or go full force and save up for an Yggy? It'll probably be around 2,5k € once it hits the streets, I'm kinda hesitating to drain my wallet so much for this hobby but I have a gut feeling that there's not much else I can upgrade in the 1k-1,5k region anyway.
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I've tried a few SABRE DACs (like the Matrix X-Sabre, DA8) and I found the Anedio D2 to be the least strident/harsh out of all but now over the years the lackluster treble kinda bothers me.
I'm amping the HD 800 via the Schiit Valhalla 2.
What do you guys suggest? "Sidegrade" money-wise and get a non-Sabre? Or go full force and save up for an Yggy? It'll probably be around 2,5k € once it hits the streets, I'm kinda hesitating to drain my wallet so much for this hobby but I have a gut feeling that there's not much else I can upgrade in the 1k-1,5k region anyway.
The only dac I can advice ( except TOTL dacs like Yggy ) is a used Metrum Octave because it brings a very specific sound . Thick , textured with addictive mids. unobnoxious , unresolving but not gooey ( aka TD1543 NOS crap) . Not realy an upgrade . Just a very different interesting flavor that match really very well with the HD800 IMO. Just don't forget resolution is subpar. :money:
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I have never heard the Anedio D2, and the extent of my Sabre exposure is the ES9023 in the ODAC (boo, hiss), BUT given you are amping with Valhalla 2, and have legitimate price concerns, I suggest giving the Gungnir a try. Gungnir is not at all harsh in the way of Sabres, its actually cheaper than the Anedio, and has excellent detail retrieval. The most relevant criticism of Gungnir in your situation is that it doesn't negate any of the treble trouble with HD800. But, it seems you want a little more sparkle in the treble, and Valhalla 2 is very good at keeping the HD800 in line. After I got my HD800 I toyed around quite a bit with different amp/dac combos, and the Gungnir/Valhalla 2 has been the mainstay; I can listen for hours without fatigue.
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Find a good R2R/multibit vintage DAC, like many mentioned around these parts or in purrin's HF DAC thread, or save up for the Yggy. Perhaps trickle down Yggy tech will be available sometime before you get the cash saved up for the Yggy. There might be a few good new DACs based on older DAC chips floating around too. A lot of other stuff is going to be more just a different flavor than an upgrade.
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Find a good R2R/multibit vintage DAC, like many mentioned around these parts or in purrin's HF DAC thread, or save up for the Yggy. Perhaps trickle down Yggy tech will be available sometime before you get the cash saved up for the Yggy. There might be a few good new DACs based on older DAC chips floating around too. A lot of other stuff is going to be more just a different flavor than an upgrade.
We need to really compile a list of good old multibit/r2r DACs sometime. Purrin's thread only touches on a few. I'd love to know about more.
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I would also recommend looking for a vintage R2R dac if you don't want to wait for the Yggy or trickle down tech. They'll have traits that really play to the hd800's strengths without any of the treble harshness or thinness. I don't recommend the gungnir for the hd800s (though I haven't tried it with the V2). A few people here use the gungnir with the hd800s though. Soup comes to mind with his gungnir and V2. USB gen 2 and Wyrd highly recommended if you decide to go gungnir.
Many of us here have heard vintage dacs or own one or multiple dacs. I think it would be a great idea to compile a list of vintage dacs that we have heard/owned here. I own a parasound d/ac-1100 and a Transdac and they're both fantastic dacs but with different traits.
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thanks for the recommendations so far, guys :)p6
Living in Germany, I assume that most contenders in the list will be very hard to hunt but I'm open for it so go ahead fellow Swashbucklers :boom:
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I guess I should ask what you're really looking for over the Anedio D2. You mentioned lackluster treble, but I'm not sure in what way you mean that. Too dull? Tired of the Sabre timbre?
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We need to really compile a list of good old multibit/r2r DACs sometime. Purrin's thread only touches on a few. I'd love to know about more.
But then we'd also need a list of good usb/spdif converters.
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I guess I should ask what you're really looking for over the Anedio D2. You mentioned lackluster treble, but I'm not sure in what way you mean that. Too dull? Tired of the Sabre timbre?
Well, to be honest, 50% is upgraditis that hit me after I got positively surprised getting along with the Valhalla 2.
The D2 is a very good Sabre DAC actually with a well-crafted amp section that drives my TH-900 pretty good and is dead silent on everything sensitive. The only things that can annoy me are the treble glare (even when it's one of the best Sabre implementations) and to a lesser degree the kinda lean character on bass which sometimes also leads to a lesser perception of notes. The latter is kinda hard to describe. Its as if the bass corpus doesn't represent all the details. Maybe it's the very low distortion that leads to a lesser impact and results in that perception.
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But then we'd also need a list of good usb/spdif converters.
I'm just going to make a thread in the DAC section.
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Hey all!
I need some help. I want to improve my current budget set up with some new budget components. I just haven't been loving music as much recently and my gut feeling is that it may be my Fiio gear. I've got a E07K, E09K and Fiio X3. What got me started thinking it may be my problem was doing some ABing with my Sansa Clip+ with the X3 on my HD558. The mids are so much cleaner on the Clip. Since the E07K and X3 have the same Dac, I thought it might be the problem at work too with my HD600. On the other hand, I'm finding my ER4S just too trebly on the E07K and X3, too...
So my current set up:
Work (60% Of listening): Fiio E07K > E09K > HD600
Coffee Shop (30% of Listening): X3/E07K > ER4S (I almost always have my laptop when listening). Sometimes I'll swith to the meh SE215 after ER4S treble fatigue.
Home (Maybe 10% of listening): X3/E07K/Clip+ > HD558
If I get rid of the Fiio gear, what would you guys recommond to replace other budget gear with?
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What's your budget for the budget rig?
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What's your budget for the budget rig?
Probably a flexible 3-400, about what I've put into the Fiio stuff.
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Leckerton UHA-6S
Schitt Fulla or a Geek Out
That'll do ya and I think you can stay at or around your budget.
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Leckerton UHA-6S
Schitt Fulla or a Geek Out
That'll do ya and I think you can stay at or around your budget.
Thanks for the suggestions!
I've read that the Leckerton has an excellent amp section but I wasn't sure if it would be powerful enough for the HD600. What do you think? Also, I've read that the Leckerton's greatest strength isn't its dac. Is that why you mentioned the Fulla or Geekout? Do you think either the Fulla or Geekout would be an improvement over my Fiio gear as a dac/amp?
I'm thinking of going one of these two ways:
1) What would you choose for a portable dac/amp for the HD600 (Office) or HD650 (home)? (Is there a Geekout? Leckerton?)
2) What would you choose for a portable dac/amp for an iem (home/out) but that I could also use as just a dac with the Vali/HD600 (Office)? I don't have the Vali but I was considering it...
Thanks for your time and patience! Sorry if I'm being dense!
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Anyone here besides Tyll have something to say about the Skullcandy Aviators?
They're on sale here for a really nice price. :)
Thanks!
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Not terribad last I heard years ago. Cup ergos upside down to me.
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What would be a basic combo for the hd800? Budget is around $1.7k.
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What would be a basic combo for the hd800? Budget is around $1.7k.
Including the headphone at retail? Magni and Modi in Uber 2 variants or Vali..
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Including the headphone at retail? Magni and Modi in Uber 2 variants or Vali..
:)p7
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Including the headphone at retail? Magni and Modi in Uber 2 variants or Vali..
Or swap the Vali for the Valhalla 2. (that probably assumes some discount on the HD800).
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Or swap the Vali for the Valhalla 2. (that probably assumes some discount on the HD800).
Or a secondhand one at that. I'll take a look at both options.
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So, I'm looking to buy an amp to drive my K7XX and modded T50RP with better dynamics than the GO450, roughly in the ~300 bracket. I want the driver to punch me in the throat when the music calls for it.
So far my options are the Gustard H10, Modi 2 Uber, Asgard 2, Vali. Haven't listened to any of these. Any suggestions?
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Hoping someone here can provide intelligent advice, based on their experiences, rather than their take on reviews and 3rd party accounts.
I'm near completing my 2nd setup and am considering the practical and dare I say audible advantages of a dedicated pc/streamer (Aurilati type, etc...). Each of my setups will include power conditioning (regenerative, BPT 3.5+ Sig) and Offramp 5's + external PSU. I have been using a lowly $99 laptop, with no moving parts, no fan and all bloatware removed + unneccesary services disabled. The one addition has been a JRiver copy, other efforts have all been towards substraction.
I can make neither heads or tails out of what I read. Some accounts hold that a dedicated pc is even more important than the dac in the ultimate equation. Others claim their uber powerful gaming desktops sounded substantially improved over their dedicated audio counterparts. Hell, other accounts claim Windows 2012 Server is an enormous upgrade and one yokel emphatically declares that restarting his pc improves the sound of his system (ram buffers or some such claim).
I tend to be a little more trusting of this place and so ask those who have heard both, or better who have owned both for a period of time. Have you found your dedicated audio pc's / streamers to improve upon your laptop. Specifically interested in those accounts which include a high end converter between laptop and DAC.
*dac's are a Spectral SDR-2000, Lampizator 5 with custom i2s in, and Levinson 30.5 -- in case anyone has experiences with these products
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I've read that the Leckerton has an excellent amp section but I wasn't sure if it would be powerful enough for the HD600. What do you think?
HD600, no problem.
Also, I've read that the Leckerton's greatest strength isn't its dac. Is that why you mentioned the Fulla or Geekout?
Yep. Use the Leck DAC if you're wanting to keep your portable simple, add the Geek/Fulla when you want to get it right.
Do you think either the Fulla or Geekout would be an improvement over my Fiio gear as a dac/amp?
Without a doubt.
I'm thinking of going one of these two ways:
1) What would you choose for a portable dac/amp for the HD600 (Office) or HD650 (home)? (Is there a Geekout? Leckerton?)
Get the Leckerton and the Geek/Fulla. Use them together when you can. Use them separately. You'll have great options and all of them will be better than your current gear.
2) What would you choose for a portable dac/amp for an iem (home/out) but that I could also use as just a dac with the Vali/HD600 (Office)? I don't have the Vali but I was considering it...
Get the Geek/Fulla. They have amps built in. You can use it as a portable and it will also be great with the Vali.
Thanks for your time and patience! Sorry if I'm being dense!
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So, I'm looking to buy an amp to drive my K7XX and modded T50RP with better dynamics than the GO450, roughly in the ~300 bracket. I want the driver to punch me in the throat when the music calls for it.
So far my options are the Gustard H10, Modi 2 Uber, Asgard 2, Vali. Haven't listened to any of these. Any suggestions?
Do you mean Magni 2 Uber? Modi is the DAC.
I've tried the Vali and Asgard 2 with HE-560 before. I think the A2 performed better--a cleaner yet warmer sound, and the bass kick that I felt was missing with Vali was present. Also used Vali with a Mad Dog and thought it was just okay (sold the Mad Dog before I could try it out of A2).
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Do you mean Magni 2 Uber? Modi is the DAC.
Err... Yeah, I meant the Magni :)p8
I've tried the Vali and Asgard 2 with HE-560 before. I think the A2 performed better--a cleaner yet warmer sound, and the bass kick that I felt was missing with Vali was present. Also used Vali with a Mad Dog and thought it was just okay (sold the Mad Dog before I could try it out of A2).
Alright, so for good kick on the Schiit side I should go for the A2... What about the Valhalla 2?
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I'd asked Marv something similar before; see this thread (http://www.changstar.com/index.php/topic,1654.30.html) from reply #38 onwards. The main takeaway is that an all-tube amp is bad for planars.
I have a tube amp (a DIY build, called the Aikido) that I tried with either the Mad Dog or the HE-560--I'm afraid I can't recall which--but it was just pure distortion, zero music. So, no, based on my limited experience and what's been said round here, I would skip tubes if there's planars involved.
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Thanks!, so maybe the Mustard is a good pick in the price range...
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I'd asked Marv something similar before; see this thread (http://www.changstar.com/index.php/topic,1654.30.html) from reply #38 onwards. The main takeaway is that an all-tube amp is bad for planars.
I have a tube amp (a DIY build, called the Aikido) that I tried with either the Mad Dog or the HE-560--I'm afraid I can't recall which--but it was just pure distortion, zero music. So, no, based on my limited experience and what's been said round here, I would skip tubes if there's planars involved.
Hybrids with tubes can work great like the Crimson. No prob with planars. Transformer coupled can be hit or miss depending on the ortho in question. My old S7 and Levi proto work very well with the HE5. If you are an orthohead I'd go hybrid or SS.
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^ Yes I agree. Sorry if that wasn't clear! When I said "tubes" I meant tube-amps-that-arent-hybrids; not sure what the right terminology is for that.
But yes, I certainly believe hybrids are fine for planar/ortho. While I wasn't impressed by the Vali with my planars, I'm looking forward to the Ember in a week or so.
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:)p8 So...as the Cavalli Liquid Carbon goes up tomorrow...any recommendations for small form factor balanced DACs with good USB implementation to pair with it?
Maybe the AMB y3 will be ready to go in four-ish months >:D (apparently that won't be small like the y2 though).
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with my CIEM reshells of UM3X sounding a bit muddy / unclear, especially after desktop listening to HE-560,
and InEarZ CIEM reshells of Heir Audio 4.AiS recently borked, and no clue if InEarZ will ever respond to my email-
the question:
starting to plan ahead towards new CIEMs at RMAF, hopefully with the new digital ear scan by UE.
budget can't be stretched to UERM, so is UE5 worth the $600 coin?
other alternatives ?
thanks mateys!
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If you want clarity and precision, I believe the UE4 is the one for you. That's like the intermediary between the DBA02/B2 and UERM.
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thanks for the fast recommendation, UE4 even cheaper than UE5 is a nice wallet bonus!
this one's for you!
:money:
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Has anyone compared a well received USB cable (obscenely expensive naturally) to an ordinary cheapie (think Belkin) + shortblock? Belkin gold has always been good enough for me, but I'd like to know just how full of shit people are vis a vis USB cables.
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Has anyone compared a well received USB cable (obscenely expensive naturally) to an ordinary cheapie (think Belkin) + shortblock? Belkin gold has always been good enough for me, but I'd like to know just how full of shit people are vis a vis USB cables.
IME, it's just like anything else. Cost isn't going to tell you anything. I've heard good, great and bad at all pricepoints including $x000 to free. You really need to be specific with makes and models and methodology to be constructive.
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IME, it's just like anything else. Cost isn't going to tell you anything. I've heard good, great and bad at all pricepoints including $x000 to free. You really need to be specific with makes and models and methodology to be constructive.
Fair enough Anax. Can you suggest a few specific makes and models that you liked. Also, have you heard a shortblock? Any thoughts? I have a couple of Aqvox units, which I like, but couldn't tell you with certainty how much of an impact they have.
I may have reached that point in this odyssey where the setups are complete and so start to fuck around with things like USB cables. For what reason and to what ends I cannot say yet.
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I've got this really nice looking Audioquest cable... except I can't use it because the fraking thing is so stiff and in the wrong orientation that I can't plug it in without putting severe strain on the usb jack.
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I've been using an AQ cinnamon for awhile after I did my own shootout with cheaper and lots more expensive cables. That said I don't think you'll go wrong with Belkin as I don't recall it sounding bad. Some of the others I compared, both more expensive and cheaper did sound worse than your typical free USB cable. Not dissimilar with my other cable experiences.
I believe the Cable Co. has a trial program on cables you might want to try and see what's what for yourself.
www.thecableco.com/content.aspx?iid=5777 (http://www.thecableco.com/content.aspx?iid=5777)
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The adapter that crapped out on me at Axpona was my Ety adapter. I'm guessing it's not a cheap piece of junk. I just tried it at home with several cables and now I barely get any volume and a lot of distortion. This is all of a sudden: it was fine a few days ago.
Is it normal for these things to break after a couple of years? What do you think happened inside it?
Beyond that, what should I replace it with? Who makes good quality adapters?
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Claritas: is that the impedance adaptor you're talking about? I'm looking for one to use on flights, like the UE one (except I don't have a UE earphone on hand that it'd come with)
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No, just their regular eighth to quarter inch http://www.etymotic.com/consumer/accessories/er4/er38-85-1-8-to-1-4-stereo-adapter.html (http://www.etymotic.com/consumer/accessories/er4/er38-85-1-8-to-1-4-stereo-adapter.html). My Ety resistor is fine . . . so far. I'm just wondering what went wrong and what's better.
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No, just their regular eighth to quarter inch http://www.etymotic.com/consumer/accessories/er4/er38-85-1-8-to-1-4-stereo-adapter.html (http://www.etymotic.com/consumer/accessories/er4/er38-85-1-8-to-1-4-stereo-adapter.html). My Ety resistor is fine . . . so far. I'm just wondering what went wrong and what's better.
Sadly, the 1/8->1/4 adaptor is one of those things that I've found to be generally unreliable. IMO, 2 years is quite good going if you're traveling with it. I've used them in the $2-7 range and they're all roughly the same in terms of randomly dying. I don't know how one of these will last (http://www.partsconnexion.com/77655.html) but it is $22 a pop so one would expect it to last quite a while, may be.
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The best USB cable known to man... The Archimago C (http://archimago.blogspot.de/2013/04/measurements-usb-cables-for-dacs.html)
I guess there was only ever one made, so DIY.
Or... just accept the point, avoid all the audiophile brands, and buy something simply well made. And pretty, if that's what you like. I like the silver-looking ones!
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I am in the market for a new pair of headphones. My current consideration is for HD600 and Focal Spirit Pro. I'm leaning towards the FSP because an open headphone is less practical for my purposes, but I fully intend to own the HD600 at some point. I have tried the FSP and didn't have fit problems. Oddly, despite everything I've read, they fit me quite well. I could stand to have slightly larger earcups, but for all their fit issues, they one of the few pairs that I can get the headband long enough for the pads to sit comfortably around my ears as opposed to pulling up on the bottom of my lobes.
So, is there something besides the FSP that I should consider under $600 or so? I very much prefer a neutral response as opposed to something warmer, but also don't want anything bright. Something with larger ear cups and a more "luxurious" build would fit the bill.
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@tiohn : http://enigmaticaudio.com/product/slant/ maybe? depends of what you can use to drive your new headphone.
FSP in a good choice indeed. FSC ( Classic) is good too. slightly warmer , a bit less upper mids and a bit more open/laid-back.
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Good point. I've considered the Paradox/Slant, but I've owned other T50RP mods and feel they are a bit on the bulky side. I should have specified that I'd like something relatively portable for taking back and forth to work. My only amp at the moment is a UHA-6S, but I'm considering something like the Cavalli Carbon for when I get the HD600.
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IEMs are out of question ?
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I have the UERM, which fulfills all of my IEM needs and desires gloriously.
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So I'd personaly choose an open headphone . Then the HD600 :) .
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For closed under $600, seems like the Shure 1540 is worth considering.
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Interesting suggestion. I've read that the 1540 is a bit U-shaped, but that's not necessarily bad. I should mention that I mostly loved the B&W P7, but the bass was a bit too emphasized for my taste. I would love to get the treble response and clarity of the P7 with slightly tamer bass.
edit: The more I read about the 1540, the more tempting they become. The build and comfort look fantastic.
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Been eyeing on a portable amp for long. Location is Canada so things are going to get a bit complicated. Primarily for portable use. Currently using ZX1 - Angie universal and Noble 4. Have UERM incoming. Small form factor is a big plus. Compatibility with iPhone 6 is a small plus. Music preference: lots of classicals (mainly Bach, Tchaikovsky, Vivaldi, Strauss), lots of Japanese stuff (Southern Stars, Vocaloid stuff, Utada Hikaru, etc.), lots of rock (Eric Clapton, Zeppelin, etc.). Not satisfied with the articulation of bass by ZX1. A bit too weak. Budget up to 400 CAD. I don't like to get a big bunch of things bundled up into my pocket. Treble on Noble 4 is a bit sharp so optimally if the amp can soften this down it will be great, but not a must.
Or, sell the ZX1 and wait for something like AK Jr?
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The current price for the HD600 on Amazon.com is less than half the budget --- and 30% under what I paid for it just a few months back :-DD
I'm leaning towards the FSP because an open headphone is less practical for my purposes
Well, not the HD600, then. But this might be a good time to invest in one anyway :)p7
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For closed under $600, seems like the Shure 1540 is worth considering.
As long as you aren't susceptible to the similar distortion issues as the 1440 and 1840, maybe.
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As long as you aren't susceptible to the similar distortion issues as the 1440 and 1840, maybe.
I was wondering about that. I heard both the 1440 and 1840 earlier this week and didn't like them at all.
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So, I have an Yggy coming. I've currently got a Mjolnir for my HD800s and soon UERMs. I'm thinking of upgrading to Ragnarok. Are there any good reasons I shouldn't consider the upgrade, other than cost? I like the Mojo, but I want to get into end game territory now.
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So, I have an Yggy coming. I've currently got a Mjolnir for my HD800s and soon UERMs. I'm thinking of upgrading to Ragnarok. Are there any good reasons I shouldn't consider the upgrade, other than cost? I like the Mojo, but I want to get into end game territory now.
The HD800s may or may not experience a bass softening with the Rag. Myself and others have heard it a few times but I haven't had the Rag for any length of time to rule out other possibilities or even confirm that fact 100%. Other than that, I still think the Rag is the clearest and one of the most resolving SS amps I've heard.
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The HD800s may or may not experience a bass softening with the Rag. Myself and others have heard it a few times but I haven't had the Rag for any length of time to rule out other possibilities or even confirm that fact 100%. Other than that, I still think the Rag is the clearest and one of the most resolving SS amps I've heard.
Thanks. Is there anything else in the price range that I should be considering? It seems like, as you said, the rag is one of the top SS amps around. The good tube stuff looks to be more expensive.
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Thanks. Is there anything else in the price range that I should be considering? It seems like, as you said, the rag is one of the top SS amps around. The good tube stuff looks to be more expensive.
If you want SS, if might be best to try the Rag and if need add an inline resistor. I believe Purrin is planning to market a line of EC inline resistors.
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Quote from: Anaxilus on Today at 11:29:38 AM
As long as you aren't susceptible to the similar distortion issues as the 1440 and 1840, maybe.
I was wondering about that. I heard both the 1440 and 1840 earlier this week and didn't like them at all.
The 1540 distortion doesn't look anything like the horrible distortion on the 1440/1840. Check out Tyll's measurements. The 1540 has some bass distortion that isn't too unusual, but the 1440/1840 have the distortion all the way from the bass through the mids.
1840:
http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/ShureSRH1840.pdf
1540:
http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/ShureSRH1540.pdf
1840 is really extraordinarily bad in the distortion.
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The 1540 distortion doesn't look anything like the horrible distortion on the 1440/1840. Check out Tyll's measurements. The 1540 has some bass distortion that isn't too unusual, but the 1440/1840 have the distortion all the way from the bass through the mids.
1840:
http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/ShureSRH1840.pdf
1540:
http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/ShureSRH1540.pdf
1840 is really extraordinarily bad in the distortion.
It's still a big 1% across the mids. That's too high for me and I'm quite sensitive to that stuff, YMMV. It does look less ragged and more uniform though so the distortion should should more coherent. Now if you crank it, the mids get better but the bass looks almost as bad as the other Shures. So that and the impedance curves makes it appear there is a driver gene being shared between the three I would say.
No doubt it is doing better, but I would highly recommend someone listen to these first or make sure there is a favorable return policy just in case.
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If you want SS, if might be best to try the Rag and if need add an inline resistor. I believe Purrin is planning to market a line of EC inline resistors.
Ah. I'm not married to ss, it just looks like there's a not insignificant price jump to get good tube performance. Schiit also has a good warranty and customer service, which helps.
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Been eyeing on a portable amp for long. Location is Canada so things are going to get a bit complicated. Primarily for portable use. Currently using ZX1 - Angie universal and Noble 4. Have UERM incoming. Small form factor is a big plus. Compatibility with iPhone 6 is a small plus. Music preference: lots of classicals (mainly Bach, Tchaikovsky, Vivaldi, Strauss), lots of Japanese stuff (Southern Stars, Vocaloid stuff, Utada Hikaru, etc.), lots of rock (Eric Clapton, Zeppelin, etc.). Not satisfied with the articulation of bass by ZX1. A bit too weak. Budget up to 400 CAD. I don't like to get a big bunch of things bundled up into my pocket. Treble on Noble 4 is a bit sharp so optimally if the amp can soften this down it will be great, but not a must.
Or, sell the ZX1 and wait for something like AK Jr?
Keep Sony. Add Leckerton UHS6 as amp for UERM/C4/Angie. Lots of pyrates have the Leckerton. Can roll opamps to tweak sound.
I still use my Sony X with Leckerton.
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Keep Sony. Add Leckerton UHS6 as amp for UERM/C4/Angie. Lots of pyrates have the Leckerton. Can roll opamps to tweak sound.
I still use my Sony X with Leckerton.
Thanks purrin, I'll definitely keep an eye on the Leckerton. I've gone through the leaderboard so it's been on my radar for sometime. Just want to wait for some time to try (if possible) other things I've been eyeing on (new Rx, Elekit TU-HP 01, Herus, C5D, Oppo HA2).
ZX1 goes pretty well with IEMs, but the amping section is really a tad weak. I don't think my Angies are really shining with ZX1 (and neither with Fulla).
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Herus sucks, c5d sucks, elekit sucks. Rx might be good. Wouldn't hold my breath for the HA2.
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Get a Questyle Q1 when it comes out. I assume they won't be stupid and change it much like some other vendors are doing these days.
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I like the look of the Rx. I've long since had no need for my portable amps to drive my orthos and still have enough power left to provide back up generator power to the house. Portables built to work with IEMs is a good thing for me.
Anyone heard one?
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Herus sucks, c5d sucks, elekit sucks. Rx might be good. Wouldn't hold my breath for the HA2.
I've heard C5D a long time ago and I remember it had a soft and sorta delicate sound, but nothing amazing. I guess that's the reason I didn't pull the trigger that time. I think I more or less liked Beyer A200p... But then their shitty cable broke in a week.
Get a Questyle Q1 when it comes out. I assume they won't be stupid and change it much like some other vendors are doing these days.
Thanks Anax, I'll keep an eye on this. Talking about DAP, I like the sound of Calyx M a lot, but the size and the battery life and UI are just too stupid. ZX1 with all Android functions disabled and WiFi off can run me a good 3 to 4 days. Also with Canada loonies running so low against USD the price of QP1 is really...
enough power left to provide back up generator power to the house.
ROFL! Yeah I also like the look of new Rx. Elegant.
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I liked the old Rx quite a bit, but I heard there were some noise issues with sensitivity IEMs. Don't know anything about the new one.
Herus sucks. I still use the Sony X because I like the UI, it's truly portable, and because the iPhone as a source sounds bright, brittle and is unable to reproduce any kind of low level musical information.
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Can I run the leckerton directly from the headphone out of my phone for my UERMs, or should I avoid that?
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Going to a meet the next month and there will be a Piccolo. Any comments on the Piccolo?
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Can I run the leckerton directly from the headphone out of my phone for my UERMs, or should I avoid that?
1-You can.
2-Not necessarily. Not ideal but sometimes 'double amping' can help just as much or more than hurt depending. Kind of depends on how poorly engineered your source output is. Plus you can mitigate any digital attenuation that might be degrading the output.
If you're concern is only adding power/drive, you'll be fine.
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Can someone explain how the 445 / 2A3 can drive speakers? It only gives 3/6 watts at 8Ω. Isn`t that way too low? Raggy does like 60?
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1-You can.
2-Not necessarily. Not ideal but sometimes 'double amping' can help just as much or more than hurt depending. Kind of depends on how poorly engineered your source output is. Plus you can mitigate any digital attenuation that might be degrading the output.
If you're concern is only adding power/drive, you'll be fine.
I've got a Moto G, which seems to have some measured roll-off at the top and bottom. My iPad and old Note 2 sound better right out of their headphone jack.
Shot in the dark, but does anyone here have experience using the Moto G with USB DACs?
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Can someone explain how the 445 / 2A3 can drive speakers? It only gives 3/6 watts at 8Ω. Isn`t that way too low? Raggy does like 60?
I think it's a question of the speaker's sensitivity rating (dB/W at 1m or something), one's preferred listening volume and fue listening position relative to the speakers. My LS50's are like 85dB so prolly won't be the first choice, but there are speakers out there with >93dB. If you're sitting in a small-ish room and fairly close it should be pretty good. It won't give you the THX experience but most likely more than adequate.
Having said all that any recommendations on good pairings anyone?
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Can someone explain how the 445 / 2A3 can drive speakers? It only gives 3/6 watts at 8Ω. Isn`t that way too low? Raggy does like 60?
My buddy uses a Decware tube amp that outputs 2 watts at 8 ohms. His speakers are 110dB and the sound is very good. Thus speaker sensitivity is pretty important.
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Just as an addon: http://sites.psu.edu/speakerdesign/2013/01/24/hoffmans-iron-laws-of-speaker-building/
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Just as an addon: http://sites.psu.edu/speakerdesign/2013/01/24/hoffmans-iron-laws-of-speaker-building/
Thanks, interesting read :money:
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Has anyone used an iPod Classic/Video/etc. with the UERMs? The cost of a decent amp+DAC is similar to the cost of an old iPod, mSATA adapter card, and an mSATA SSD.
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Has anyone used an iPod Classic/Video/etc. with the UERMs? The cost of a decent amp+DAC is similar to the cost of an old iPod, mSATA adapter card, and an mSATA SSD.
My UERM hissed with iPod 5.5; many IEMs do.
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My UERM hissed with iPod 5.5; many IEMs do.
Did you ever use a line out dock into an amp?
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Did you ever use a line out dock into an amp?
Sure. No hiss then.
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I'll definitely keep an eye on the Leckerton. I've gone through the leaderboard so it's been on my radar for sometime. Just want to wait for some time to try (if possible) other things I've been eyeing on (new Rx, Elekit TU-HP 01, Herus, C5D, Oppo HA2).
Hi all, I am on a similar boat - iPhone 6.
Looking for a portable solution to enhance my music life in the train. Prefer to be smaller so that my pants will not budge out...
My guess is an iPhone 6 + Leckerton? or iPhone6 + GO450? or Fulla? will be using UERM
Thank you very much for your advice, and pointers, in advance.
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Hi all, I am on a similar boat - iPhone 6.
Looking for a portable solution to enhance my music life in the train. Prefer to be smaller so that my pants will not budge out...
My guess is an iPhone 6 + Leckerton? or iPhone6 + GO450? or Fulla? will be using UERM
Thank you very much for your advice, and pointers, in advance.
I think you'll need big pants pockets for some of the solutions.
I got the GO450 working with my iPhone, but that requires a Camera Kit, a tweaked USB Y power splitter, and a battery pack. It's not exactly the most elegant solution.
This is still available in IGG from Centrance which might be an ideal commuter unit for the iPhone: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/hifi-skyn-iphone-case-made-for-music
http://igg.me/at/hifi-skyn/x/9253412 (I backed this when it first came on)
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What do you guys think of the ibasso dx90?
Thanks
C
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I ended up ordering the UERMs today. Impressions are already on their way to UE.
I figured I'd post my initial impressions here after having the UERMs for a few days.
Reference System
HD800 (stock)
Mjolnir
Modi 2
Gear Used
Modi 2-->iFi iCan Micro
Galaxy Note 2
Moto G
Sansa Clip+
Comfort
The fit has some small issues, but overall is very good. They really do mostly disappear after they reach body temp. I also like how once they're in, they're in, unlike every pair of universal IEMs I've ever owned. Isolation is also great, especially at the gym. It's nice to be able to work out without having to jack the volume up to ear-splitting levels to block out the noise.
The cable is somewhat microphonic, though. I'm not sure if that's just a normal thing or not.
Gear Sensivity
Sound varies widely from source to source. List above is rough ranking in terms of SQ. All aspects of sound improve as you move up, but bass, treble, and overall instrumental separation/imaging seem to be what are really effected. The Moto G seems to have some measured roll off on the top and bottom, but the Clip+ makes female vocals sound robotic and plasticy.
Sound Quality
I don't have a balanced cable yet, so these are EARLY impressions based on a few days listening from mostly non-ideal gear. I'm also doing this in bullet points because I suck at writing.
- These really are as neutral as everyone says. There's no single aspect of the sound emphasized over any other, and it's kind of a weird experience. They really make my HD800s sound bright in comparison
- The bass is surprising. There's more of it than I anticipated since I had heard from some people that these were bass light. I'd say it's just the right amount.
- It's probably the gear used, but there seems to be a lack of clarity/detail and air. I was honestly expecting much more. There's certainly more than a lot of headphones, though, I'd say more than the HD650 I had last year. Maybe my expectations need to be recalibrated because of the HD800. It may be an unfair comparison, especially with the HD800's treble tilt.
- This is again probably the gear, but there's not a lot of dynamic texture. Loud passages don't hit much harder than softer passages, and microdynamics are practically nonexistant. I've found this aspect of sound to be very amp-dependent, though, so I expect that to improve once I try these with the Mjolnir or upgrade the portable source.
Overall, I'm not particularly enthused with these. The isolation and comfort are fantastic, but the sound quality so far has not been worth it. If I had the option to return them and get two pairs of UE4s instead (one for work, one for the gym), I probably would. Hopefully, after the small fit problems get fixed and the balanced cable comes, some of my issues with them will be alleviated.
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Hi guys..
Need a little help understanding some gear.
How do pro audio interfaces compare to usb dacs and amps?
I found this interface on craigslist and it calls itself compatible for headphones whos impedance ranges from 24-600. Will it be compatible with my dt880/600?
Here are some specs for the interface I found (Maudio C600) http://www.dolphinmusic.co.uk/article/5066-m-audio-fast-track-c400-c600-what-s-the-difference-.html
How does it compare to the Magni/Modi?
How does it compare to just the modi? (or for instance the odac)?
Why do audiophiles tend to stay away from recording gear (I haven't seen anyone on changstar/head-fi talk much audio interface etc)?
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Proaudio stuff is just as widely varied in quality as "audiophile" stuff.
Years ago I had an M-Audio interface (can't remember the name of it; this was way back when PCs still occasionally had firewire ports). I thought it sounded good, on the warm side of things, but my main gripe was the unstable drivers. That was ages ago though, so it might be a totally different story now, but that's been my only experience with M-Audio (aside from some of their studio monitors).
Audiophiles do tend to be a fickle bunch, and tend to shun the proaudio (or "prosumer") grade stuff for no real reason beyond snobbery.
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I think you'll need big pants pockets for some of the solutions.
I got the GO450 working with my iPhone, but that requires a Camera Kit, a tweaked USB Y power splitter, and a battery pack. It's not exactly the most elegant solution.
thank you. Sounds like the bulk is really hard to avoid. : (
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Proaudio stuff is just as widely varied in quality as "audiophile" stuff.
Audiophiles do tend to be a fickle bunch, and tend to shun the proaudio (or "prosumer") grade stuff for no real reason beyond snobbery.
While i would agree in general, i'd still say the pro audio market is flooded with more crap, even more than ''head-audiophile'' market and the focus is elswhere. Some of really well regarded stuff sound like ass. No offence, but M-Audio can only make semi-decent monitors for good price, ime. I have owned or my close friends have owned different brands of pro-audio gear, i was once into this. I got introduce to headphones through mastering studio business.
The Benchmark DAC1 was first received by pro-audio crowd, supposedly marketed as such, hyped to heavens but it's nothing so special. Some 'hi-fi' stuff can be better at fraction of cost.
It is somewhat easier to sell junk with pro-audio sticker on it. The other side is pro audio devices are often optimized to be functional, user friendly, rock steady and super compatible with everything. Sound quality is usually not the highest priority.
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One of the problems with pro/semi-pro stuff is that you get, and pay for, a heap of things that you probably don't need and probably will never use. That means that just a fraction of your cash is going on the bit that you do want.
I used to wonder how the hifi market got away with the DAC thing: 50, or even 25 percent of the functionality at 2 or 4 times the price. I'm sure the idea came, originally, from a marketing man! But now I don't wonder any longer: I ask myself, "why should I pay for input when I only want output; why should I pay for an ADC when I am only going to use the DAC and, above all, why should I pay for mic pre-amps, etc, when I am never going to record from a microphone?"
Back in the day when I did want sound going in both directions, I climbed the ladder from real-rubbish cards (Sound blasters were, back in the day, all too aptly named) to a very decent RME 2-channel, in and out, analogue and digital and had a fairly complex setup with turntable, tape, minidic, and even a small mixer for mics, and I used it all, if only for fun messing around. These days, I just play music. Also, these days, if I want RME quality, I simply cannot get a simple 2-in/2-out card any longer: I have to buy the above-mentioned facilities and more. I have an Echo Audiofire2, should I actually need to record --- but it has been a year or three now since I even digitised an LP.
So, as hifi manufacturers won the marketing war, the interfaces just gave up and gave in. Sound cards [internal] died a death because audiophiles don't "believe" in them (hey, how can music survive all the noise in a PC cabinet? The clue is that engineers, if the product is decent, also know about noise in a PC cabinet) and because, for most people, laptops now have a much greater appeal than stuff that comes in a box.
There is still a niche market for cards like Juli@ (great value for money. If I still needed a sound card, would probably buy), especially for those building media PCs, HT PCs, etc etc. High-end buyers should probably be buying Lynx, but I don't know if they do.
There are companies like Antelope that are selling to studio and home customers, and even designing stuff that looks weird enough to have audiophool attraction (I say nothing about the sound: just the looks!). Audiophiles are also interested in gear like Prism, despite the array of unwanted inputs, for the quality of its converters. Lavry, Grace, etc, also have a following.
Personally, as I just mentioned on another thread, I'd love to have a Lynx Hylo on my desk. People say that the converters are excellent (should be: Lynx have been doing this stuff since year zero of the PC-audio era) and the headphone amp is respectable too. It has heaps of gadget droolworthyness. ...But I don't need the functionality, I haven't got the cash, and it doesn't work with Linux.
Priidk, I think the crap is in the bedroom-studio noise-not-music market. M-Audio actually make a very respectable sound card or two, but I don't think they rate pro. I have a pair of M-Audio speakers on my desk here: I rate them as great value for money, but that's all.
The real studio stuff is a different market. Not only do the buyers have seriously experienced ears, but some of them will be quite ready to get out the test gear as well. If they want transparent, it had better be transparent, to ear and measuring tools. In that respect, I have a tendency to trust the real pro market more than the hifi market, because is it harder for them to sell bullshit.
Or that's the theory, at any rate. The pro world has its hype and fotm too. Spend some time browsing Gearslutz :)
My next pair of speakers will be from the pro market...
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Yeah there's the proaudio stuff, and the "prosumer" grade stuff like I mentioned earlier. Lotsa throwaway gear for all the wannabe DJ's and producers out there.
I had some M-Audio AV40 desktop monitor that were decent a few years back as well. I liked them a little more compared to the Audioengine A2's, but they were bigger in footprint.
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I had some M-Audio AV40 desktop monitor that were decent a few years back as well.
.
That's what I've got. They are decent, for the price :)
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Really can't complain about M-Audio and Behringer monitors in value view point. These two and Adam A-series are my automatic recommendation to newcomers who ask decent sound with not very serious money.
Mackies are 2x the cost and Genelec/Adam S-series/Klein&Hummel are 5x this much.
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What do you guys think of the ibasso dx90?
Thanks
C
Mediocre performance. Shane55 here or on Head-fi uses the dx90 for his reference portable. When he told me that, I asked him this weekend at the meet to try my rig (GO450>Leckerton) to compare. You should ask him to pm you and talk about his impressions versus the dx90. It wouldn't be appropriate for me to use that many expletives here. ;)
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I figured I'd post my initial impressions here after having the UERMs for a few days.
Reference System
HD800 (stock)
Mjolnir
Modi 2
Gear Used
Modi 2-->iFi iCan Micro
Galaxy Note 2
Moto G
Sansa Clip+
Comfort
The fit has some small issues, but overall is very good. They really do mostly disappear after they reach body temp. I also like how once they're in, they're in, unlike every pair of universal IEMs I've ever owned. Isolation is also great, especially at the gym. It's nice to be able to work out without having to jack the volume up to ear-splitting levels to block out the noise.
The cable is somewhat microphonic, though. I'm not sure if that's just a normal thing or not.
Gear Sensivity
Sound varies widely from source to source. List above is rough ranking in terms of SQ. All aspects of sound improve as you move up, but bass, treble, and overall instrumental separation/imaging seem to be what are really effected. The Moto G seems to have some measured roll off on the top and bottom, but the Clip+ makes female vocals sound robotic and plasticy.
Sound Quality
I don't have a balanced cable yet, so these are EARLY impressions based on a few days listening from mostly non-ideal gear. I'm also doing this in bullet points because I suck at writing.
- These really are as neutral as everyone says. There's no single aspect of the sound emphasized over any other, and it's kind of a weird experience. They really make my HD800s sound bright in comparison
- The bass is surprising. There's more of it than I anticipated since I had heard from some people that these were bass light. I'd say it's just the right amount.
- It's probably the gear used, but there seems to be a lack of clarity/detail and air. I was honestly expecting much more. There's certainly more than a lot of headphones, though, I'd say more than the HD650 I had last year. Maybe my expectations need to be recalibrated because of the HD800. It may be an unfair comparison, especially with the HD800's treble tilt.
- This is again probably the gear, but there's not a lot of dynamic texture. Loud passages don't hit much harder than softer passages, and microdynamics are practically nonexistant. I've found this aspect of sound to be very amp-dependent, though, so I expect that to improve once I try these with the Mjolnir or upgrade the portable source.
Overall, I'm not particularly enthused with these. The isolation and comfort are fantastic, but the sound quality so far has not been worth it. If I had the option to return them and get two pairs of UE4s instead (one for work, one for the gym), I probably would. Hopefully, after the small fit problems get fixed and the balanced cable comes, some of my issues with them will be alleviated.
This is the wrong thread for impressions....
Do you have a UE4 you are comparing the UERM to?
Your portable gear is actually pretty weak tbh, the UERM can scale similarly like the HD800 would on a desktop rig. Now the UE4 does have better clarity than the UERM. However, detail, resolution, texture are all superior to the UE4.
Please copy/paste this UERM stuff to the appropriate thread and we can continue the dialogue there.
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<desktop/monitor thread sideline :) >
Really can't complain about M-Audio and Behringer monitors in value view point. These two and Adam A-series are my automatic recommendation to newcomers who ask decent sound with not very serious money.
Mackies are 2x the cost and Genelec/Adam S-series/Klein&Hummel are 5x this much.
Well, you get a lot more for your money, like for instance, multiple times the number of amplifiers with real active speakers, which the AV-40s are not (but the Adams, even entry level, are),
I vacillate like a sick pendulum on this. Sometimes, I think that for the minority speaker listening that I do, the AV-40s are just fine and spending, if any, should be on the headphone/DAC side. Other times, I think of saving up for something exotic like the small Geithains (that's two thousand UK pounds for a pair) and currently I'm think of getting the Amphion one12 (a mere one thousand UK quid :o ) and using an otherwise stuck-in-the-cupboard Cyrus integrated amp with them.
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Dx90 is simply just "okay" the GO 450 by itself sounds better than the dx90. It's what I use.
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Thank you guys headband
I'll give the DX90 a pass then. Lookin at the ZX2 seeing Tidal just got here and all...
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Well the GO450+Leck was better than the ZX2 also. Just sayin'...
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Well the GO450+Leck was better than the ZX2 also. Just sayin'...
oh dear… having said that, my GO1000 is pretty darn good straight out. Unfortunately I need a computer-less solution which doesn't require a USB hub a battery and chicken blood under a full Autumn moon which might stop working when Apple unleashes the next iOS upon us. Again, Tidal would also be good (till I get bored of it, I guess) but DSD is not really a requirement. Any of you kindly pirates have any suggestions?
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The best AIO I've heard so far is the Questyle QP1 or QP1R. That should get you pretty darned close to the 450+Leck. Haven't heard what the Geek Wave will do yet either but it could be an equal or better. Remains to be seen.
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The best AIO I've heard so far is the Questyle QP1 or QP1R. That should get you pretty darned close to the 450+Leck. Haven't heard what the Geek Wave will do yet either but it could be an equal or better. Remains to be seen.
Just got an e-mail back from Alden Zhao from Questyle. Sound promising, but it doesn't do wifi… and there's always the Geek Wave to be seen…
I might just get myself a ZX1or even an iPod touch for now and see how these compare in the flesh… did I hear Leckerton is cooking up something interesting?
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For any owners of a Balancing Act: does the amp function as a preamp via RCA? It seems the preamp is XLR only and the RCA outputs are fixed? Or just loopouts? I have long wanted to hear my Zana + BA together.
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Anyone with Parasound 1600HD ?
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I was finally able to try my pair with my Mjolnir (had to wait for a fit tweak AND for the cable to arrive) and there is a lot of background hiss. Has anyone else experienced this with the Mojo and IEMs? Does the Mojo simply have too much gain to use with the UERMs?
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What are some good sound practices to follow to avoid snake oil? How do you guys feel with people that say that cables or solid state amps do make a slight difference even if measurements might not even support this?
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As a "recovering audiophile," I'm a bit extreme on the cable issue. I don't doubt that it is possible to manufacture cables where the basic electrical paramaters (which I don't claim to understand) are changed, which might have an effect on the sound, but I now think that the whole trade, at least in expensive cables, is evil-scam crap.
This is my latest thought on the issue: Why would audiophiles want to make arbitrary, and often expensive, shot-in-the-dark attempts at correcting or enhancing the sound of the sound of their system using cables when they could easily use non-arbitrary and undeniably-makes-a-difference tools such as tone controls and EQ?
We have a snake-oil thread. Do we have a specific cable thread where believers and non-believers can load chain and grape shot and cut each other to pieces with their broadsides?
:boom: walk the plank2 walk the plank :boom:
:)p8
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I'm thinking of buying SE215 to use for phone calls, but many have reported that the in-line mic cable is quite fragile.
So I'm looking for a durable, readily-available replacement in-line mic cable (preferably black to match the Shures). Any recommendations? Maybe one of the Westones? Apple and Android remotes are both fine.
Or if you have a better idea, please let me know. Thanks.
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I've been out of headphones for a while now, just have what I've have had for some years and stuff.
Is $250 for a PM3 a good deal?
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Is $250 for a PM3 a good deal?
Yes but only if:
1. You don't mind 57 mm tall earpads
2. You don't listen to a lot of orchestral music because it has a very shallow soundstage (~6 feet deep).
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This will be for isolation/public transport use. Some metal and electronic music, if it gets broken I'll junk it and get another one since its cheap enough. But really want to avoid spending too much on something that will either get stolen like my ES5 or completely broken like my 1964 quad driver model. Been burned too much.
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A lot of unanswered questions here. Maybe we should sticky this thread someplace that gets more attention. I'll do my best and hope others will chime in.
For any owners of a Balancing Act: does the amp function as a preamp via RCA? It seems the preamp is XLR only and the RCA outputs are fixed? Or just loopouts? I have long wanted to hear my Zana + BA together.
If purr1n hasn't gotten back to you, you should be able to pm him, CeeTee or Tari. I believe we have a lot of former BA owners here and am surprised no one has answered you yet tbh.
Anyone with Parasound 1600HD ?
Very little if any myself. I believe n3rdling might have some decent Parasound experience if you can contact him.
I was finally able to try my pair with my Mjolnir (had to wait for a fit tweak AND for the cable to arrive) and there is a lot of background hiss. Has anyone else experienced this with the Mojo and IEMs? Does the Mojo simply have too much gain to use with the UERMs?
Definitely too much gain. Not designed for IEMs.
What are some good sound practices to follow to avoid snake oil? How do you guys feel with people that say that cables or solid state amps do make a slight difference even if measurements might not even support this?
Depends on what we are measuring. Different cables do measure differently if you measure the correct thing. Question is whether those measurements translate into audibility. I have had experience with cables sounding different to me but remember price is no determination of anything other than you spent more money. Some cheap cables sound a hell of a lot better than some with many more zeroes.
We'd love to spend more time and effort trying to see if we can correlate measurements to perceived sonics if there is a relationship at all. However, we have much bigger fish to fry, such as amp (SS or tube) that measure similarly enough yet sound so different.
Remember, frequency response is just one measurement among many, and those are but few among many more which are either rarely displayed or even talked about if at all. You can measure a bright cable or amp versus a warmer one and find they all measure flat in FR. That's one reason its so easy for some people to be distracted and just write things off as 'sounding' the same. I can measure two cars that have the same exact size but that doesn't tell me they drive the same.
Only real way to know for yourself is to hear them in a way that presents the least risk to your wallet.
I'm thinking of buying SE215 to use for phone calls, but many have reported that the in-line mic cable is quite fragile.
So I'm looking for a durable, readily-available replacement in-line mic cable (preferably black to match the Shures). Any recommendations? Maybe one of the Westones? Apple and Android remotes are both fine.
Or if you have a better idea, please let me know. Thanks.
Have you tried asking joker on H-fi or Kunlun/tomscy2000 here?
I've been out of headphones for a while now, just have what I've have had for some years and stuff.
Is $250 for a PM3 a good deal?
I've heard better things about them than the PM1 or 2. If they are more clear and open/delineated than those I'd think they might be a decent buy. I'd definitely ask others. Maybe OJNeg has heard all three?
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The PM-3 has really good isolation, and once the pads settle in and warm up the bass really livens up. I would totally buy a set at $250 if I needed a closed portable.
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Thanks for that, I really do miss and prefer the isolation, size and form factor of a CIEM again though.
The Roxanne's look very enticing.
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I just bought FAD Pandora Hope VI waiting for it to come, is it a good buy ? I did this because the last time I went to Japan I took a gamble and bought MDR-EX 1000 for like $350 and it was a good gamble, so I try to push my luck this time.
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Was asked this today and i think it'd be cool to hear what you guys think: best bluetooth headphones? (Considering wireless perfofmance only.)
Thank you
C
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I'm really enjoying my Adcom GDA-700 DAC. I know it's R2R and it's from the 90s. Do you guys know of other good old R2R DACs? I was thinking of fishing for them on my local craigslist. :)p2
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Hey guys,
what's the Valhalla 2 equivalent (price and especially performance) for low-Z high current headphones that need to be taken by the balls with hands of steel? Hifiman planars, Audeze, but also D7000, TH-900 and Co.
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I'm really enjoying my Adcom GDA-700 DAC. I know it's R2R and it's from the 90s. Do you guys know of other good old R2R DACs? I was thinking of fishing for them on my local craigslist. :)p2
We could tell you, but then we'd have to kill you.
But no, more seriously, you can find a couple of short lists in the Head-Fi DAC thread. Posts #3710, 3995, 4632.
Hey guys,
what's the Valhalla 2 equivalent (price and especially performance) for low-Z high current headphones that need to be taken by the balls with hands of steel? Hifiman planars, Audeze, but also D7000, TH-900 and Co.
I'm a big fan of Garage1217's Project Ember for HiFiMan planars. A couple other good options for those headphones are the Schiit Asgard 2 and the Gustard H10. All of the above play very well with the headphones you have listed.
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I second the Project Ember for Audeze and TH-900. Have not heard the others with it.
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Ron, what DAC do you use with the Ember? I'm using the Uberfrost and it plays great with the Audez'e, the TH 900 (when I had it) and in fact, its working very well with the HD 800 (with impedance set at high and high gain as well).
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Thanks guys,
I'll consider choosing between the Project Ember and the Liquid Carbon. :wheel:
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Thanks guys,
I'll consider choosing between the Project Ember and the Liquid Carbon. :wheel:
Wow, those are two rather divergent sounding amps.
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Ron, what DAC do you use with the Ember? I'm using the Uberfrost and it plays great with the Audez'e, the TH 900 (when I had it) and in fact, its working very well with the HD 800 (with impedance set at high and high gain as well).
Using both the Gungnir and sometimes the DAC in my Wadia 581i SACDP. Mostly using HD800 or HD650. HD800 I use high gain and high impedance as well. Picking the tube is the fun part. I have been using the 6SN7 adaptor with a ANOS Ken-Rad 1945 VT-231. Plays nicely with the 800's IMO. I have too many tubes now. 12V and 6V Russian, US and British. I'm out of control! :) both DAC's work well. Just slightly different flavors, since the Wadia is an R2R and has different filters you can choose. Audeze works well also, although I am considering RMA for Fazor. Hard to decide. How is the modded Bill-p working out? The LCD, not Bill himself.
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Wow, those are two rather divergent sounding amps.
Hey Anax, can you describe your impressions/comparison of both?
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Hey Anax, can you describe your impressions/comparison of both?
I've only had a brief meet listen with the Ember, but a loaner is coming soon. I'll be able t confirm one or two things I had been wondering about. Obviously one is a tube amp, the other SS. The Carbon has a nice organic quality to it and is very refined sounding for the price with good macro dynamic swing. While it has a slightly warmer signature than is typical for SS, it is not overly imposing and it does well enough revealing differences in upstream DACs. Ember can be rolled for different tubes obviously. What I heard had nice clarity and decent resolution for the price point but was rather analytical, grainy and unrefined sounding. Could have been the tube or my listening level versus the set gain. I also heard the same thing with the Polaris though. The Ember was actually more SS sounding than the Carbon. But again, those were brief impressions under meet conditions. I'll know more soon enough.
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Anax-Will be bringing the same amps to the SoCal meet. Smaller meet. We can listen longer and under better conditions. I will bring some different tubes to try out. Still thinking lots of RF in the building in SF might be the problem,and the chassis are open and everything was plugged into the same power strip. As I didn't spend a lot of time with them there, I will share my home observations with you. Looking forward to what we hear. "She blinded me with Science".
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.................. How is the modded Bill-p working out? The LCD, not Bill himself.
I am expecting the LCD 2 (along with a HD 600) to reach me by June 5..will definitely post impressions.
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Dilemma: to spend money on the Geek Out v2+ or Liquid Carbon. Uses: GOv2+ would be primarily with UERM, Liquid Carbon would be primarily with HD800. I am pretty happy with what I have (Leckerton for UERM, Valhalla 2 for HD800) but I don't want to get complacent. Also, curiosity.
I had put a question into the liquid carbon thread about whether it is a good application of balanced voodoo for the HD800, but that really belongs here. Its part of the consideration for both of these actually, GOv2+ can play with balanced UERM, liquid carbon can play with balanced HD800. I am curious but not enchanted by balanced amplification. Both seem like decent creations, both are relatively affordable, and both are similarly priced. Both also involve a delay between placing order and satisfaction.
Responsible me is wearing the skin right now, so only one can be acquired at this point. I am curious what people think.
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Dilemma: to spend money on the Geek Out v2+ or Liquid Carbon. Uses: GOv2+ would be primarily with UERM, Liquid Carbon would be primarily with HD800. I am pretty happy with what I have (Leckerton for UERM, Valhalla 2 for HD800) but I don't want to get complacent. Also, curiosity.
I had put a question into the liquid carbon thread about whether it is a good application of balanced voodoo for the HD800, but that really belongs here. Its part of the consideration for both of these actually, GOv2+ can play with balanced UERM, liquid carbon can play with balanced HD800. I am curious but not enchanted by balanced amplification. Both seem like decent creations, both are relatively affordable, and both are similarly priced. Both also involve a delay between placing order and satisfaction.
Responsible me is wearing the skin right now, so only one can be acquired at this point. I am curious what people think.
What DAC are you using?
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What DAC are you using?
Gungnir gen 2 usb for desktop, a17 is sole source for portable. I know go v2 won't take an analog line in, so I would be switching back to phone/laptop as source if I get go v2.
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You are probably saying, “Oh no, not another ‘HD-800 and what amp?’ thread!” I am sorry but in some ways it is that, and for other specifics, it is not.
Primary headphone:
• Currently have HD-800 as my primary headphone and I love it but it is not achieving near its true potential, so an amp upgrade is the logical solution.
I have no self-control, like the rest of you:
• While testing some amps, I tried a few other headphones (I know, I should be focused on the amp only but when there are so many headphones readily available for you to try, how do you not?). So I tried the Ed5, HE-6, HE-560, AKG 812, LCD-3, LCD-X, LCD-XC, TH500, TH600, TH900 and maybe a couple of other more. So now I am very tempted to get the LCD-XC.
My rig:
• Currently using two Line Magnetic pieces in my rig. The DAC is LM-502CA and the integrated tube amp is LM-Mini-218IA. Although I did give it a listen today and they are not too bad. Just a little too 'clean'. Perhaps I could try rolling the tubes first to see what it can do but buying a new amp is just easier to do and I have been preparing my wife to expect a significant new addition, so I don’t want to waste all that hard work.
Amps I am considering:
• Seriously considering the Schiit Ragnarok, Bryston BHA1, and Questyle CMA800i.
• The Ragnarok is the front runner because of great reviews, has balanced and it can run speakers. The BHA1 looks better and also has balanced but cannot run speakers and the CMA800i is the cheapest but doesn’t have balanced and cannot run speakers.
• I recently lost my mind for a couple of days and thought about breaking my budget and considered the McIntosh MHA100 and the MXA70.
Amps I have tested recently:
• Recently tested ALO Studio Six, Senn HDVD 800, and Hifiman EF-6. The Six was good but for me, it didn’t warrant the extra dollars and not having the option for balanced and speakers takes this off the consideration list. The HDVD 800 was not bad and will get a little more listen time since I only heard them for about 15 minutes.
• I will be going to the shop next week to test the BHA1, CMA800i, and HDVD 800. The Ragnarok, as you all know, is not available for testing and purchase at this time.
Other bits to consider in making my purchase:
• Living in Hong Kong so I would like to limit my choices to what I can get here to avoid hassle and huge shipping fees.
• Spending the coming summer in Toronto but voltage will be an issue if I bring an amp from TO to HK. But headphones will not be a problem.
• I would like to get a tube amp if within my budget but the Eddie Currents and others are out of my budget range.
I would appreciate any suggestions, advice, recommendations, etc. regarding my future purchase.
Thanks
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You are probably saying, “Oh no, not another ‘HD-800 and what amp?’ thread!” I am sorry but in some ways it is that, and for other specifics, it is not.
Primary headphone:
• Currently have HD-800 as my primary headphone and I love it but it is not achieving near its true potential, so an amp upgrade is the logical solution.
I have no self-control, like the rest of you:
• While testing some amps, I tried a few other headphones (I know, I should be focused on the amp only but when there are so many headphones readily available for you to try, how do you not?). So I tried the Ed5, HE-6, HE-560, AKG 812, LCD-3, LCD-X, LCD-XC, TH500, TH600, TH900 and maybe a couple of other more. So now I am very tempted to get the LCD-XC.
My rig:
• Currently using two Line Magnetic pieces in my rig. The DAC is LM-502CA and the integrated tube amp is LM-Mini-218IA. Although I did give it a listen today and they are not too bad. Just a little too 'clean'. Perhaps I could try rolling the tubes first to see what it can do but buying a new amp is just easier to do and I have been preparing my wife to expect a significant new addition, so I don’t want to waste all that hard work.
Amps I am considering:
• Seriously considering the Schiit Ragnarok, Bryston BHA1, and Questyle CMA800i.
• The Ragnarok is the front runner because of great reviews, has balanced and it can run speakers. The BHA1 looks better and also has balanced but cannot run speakers and the CMA800i is the cheapest but doesn’t have balanced and cannot run speakers.
• I recently lost my mind for a couple of days and thought about breaking my budget and considered the McIntosh MHA100 and the MXA70.
Amps I have tested recently:
• Recently tested ALO Studio Six, Senn HDVD 800, and Hifiman EF-6. The Six was good but for me, it didn’t warrant the extra dollars and not having the option for balanced and speakers takes this off the consideration list. The HDVD 800 was not bad and will get a little more listen time since I only heard them for about 15 minutes.
• I will be going to the shop next week to test the BHA1, CMA800i, and HDVD 800. The Ragnarok, as you all know, is not available for testing and purchase at this time.
Other bits to consider in making my purchase:
• Living in Hong Kong so I would like to limit my choices to what I can get here to avoid hassle and huge shipping fees.
• Spending the coming summer in Toronto but voltage will be an issue if I bring an amp from TO to HK. But headphones will not be a problem.
• I would like to get a tube amp if within my budget but the Eddie Currents and others are out of my budget range.
I would appreciate any suggestions, advice, recommendations, etc. regarding my future purchase.
Thanks
1. Do your wallet a favor and stay away from LCD-XC, unless you must use a isolating closed-back headphone. But even then I would buy the TH900.
2. Don't wrap your head around over whether a headphone amp is single-ended or balanced or what not. Balanced doesn't necessarily mean better and there are a handful of well-designed SE amps (such as ZDSE, HPA-21, HPA-3000 or L-2) that stomp mediocre balanced amps pushed by HF idiots as high-end (WA22 comes to mind).
3. Out of your considerations, the Ragnarok is undoubtedly your best bet especially if your headphones are HD800. Even better than Studio Six, not because it's balanced but because of its excellent implementation.
4. McIntosh MHA100 was a bitter disappointment for me. With that kind of money I would rather purchase a TOTL Eddie Current or Rag/Yggy and call it a day.
5. If you want a tube amp, then the new Zana Deux Super should be worthy of consideration at $2300... not sure if that's within your budget though. I haven't heard the Super version but can vouch for it based on my experience with SE.
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I don't own these, but have heard them all.
Right now the best I have heard is the TOTL EC 2A3 Mk IV (Marv's unit The Studio) with the Yggy. End game for me. (If I sold most of my speaker gear, which is not going to happen.)
The other I would consider is the EC Zana Deux S with Yggy DAC. If you only looking at the HD800's. Read up on what headphones play well with the Zana Deux. The HD600's also sound excellent with this combo.
Last on the end game is EC Black Widow with Yggy. Might be within your budget. My end game. Until the goal posts move. :spank:
You might have noticed I have paired all with Yggy as I only have heard them with the Yggy. Great DAC. Seems to pair well with every amp I have heard with it, no matter price range or type. Hybrid, tube, SS.
One of my favorite pairings I have heard is the Project Ember (mine) with the Yggy on the HD800. I felt it held it's own with the Ragnorak. I am sure others would disagree, but that's what this place is all about.
Note: The Studio is not the 2A3mk4. This is confusing people saying this. Similar topology, different parts. It's like saying a Mustang GT350 is like the Mustang Ecoboost.
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1. Do your wallet a favor and stay away from LCD-XC, unless you must use a isolating closed-back headphone. But even then I would buy the TH900.
2. Don't wrap your head around over whether a headphone amp is single-ended or balanced or what not. Balanced doesn't necessarily mean better and there are a handful of well-designed SE amps (such as ZDSE, HPA-21, HPA-3000 or L-2) that stomp mediocre balanced amps pushed by HF idiots as high-end (WA22 comes to mind).
3. Out of your considerations, the Ragnarok is undoubtedly your best bet especially if your headphones are HD800. Even better than Studio Six, not because it's balanced but because of its excellent implementation.
4. McIntosh MHA100 was a bitter disappointment for me. With that kind of money I would rather purchase a TOTL Eddie Current or Rag/Yggy and call it a day.
5. If you want a tube amp, then the new Zana Deux Super should be worthy of consideration at $2300... not sure if that's within your budget though. I haven't heard the Super version but can vouch for it based on my experience with SE.
1. Before purchasing the HD-800, the other headphone that I was seriously considering was the TH900. Actually, I was initially set on getting the TH900 and then I thought about trying the HD-800. It was a tough/close decision that was made just before I handed my credit card over to the shop. I have since thought about picking it up still as a companion for the HD-800. The problem is that I don't think it seals in the sound well enough. I will do a closer comparison of it against the LCD-XC and see what I think when I try out the BHA1 next week.
2. I am not ruling out SE only amps, but more that I would like to have that option. I will try the HDVD 800 next week and see if I can compare SE to balanced and see if I can hear any difference or not. I am still considering the Questyle CMA800i, which is SE only.
3. I haven't tried the Ragnarok yet, and I don't know if I will be able to get a chance to give it a listen any time soon because of their backlog on orders. If I don't get to try it before I leave for Toronto on 26th June, hopefully I will get a chance to try it while I am in Toronto. Then I can tell my local shop guy in Hong Kong to hold it for me.
4. I have come to my senses on the MHA100. It looks very sweet but I have come back down to earth so it is off of my consideration list now.
5. Let me read up on the Zana Deux Super. I never thought about it and didn't really know about it until you mentioned it. It is doable budget-wise but really stretching it. I would have to totally drop the idea of a second primary headphone though if I go this route. Plus getting one in Hong Kong is probably not an easy thing to do, so the extra shipping charges will make it that much more of a stretch.
Thanks for your advice and suggestions.
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Maybe the simpliest to do is to list what's you real Choice in HK and then ask us what we would pick in the bunch. My 2 cents.
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Gungnir gen 2 usb for desktop, a17 is sole source for portable. I know go v2 won't take an analog line in, so I would be switching back to phone/laptop as source if I get go v2.
I wouldn't get carbon as a big upgrade on your HD800 rig honestly if you're just curious. I'd get it if you're space constrained but not for the sole reason of going balanced.
What DAC are you using for the leckerton? If you're using the leckerton as a DAC too, pick up a cheap v1 geek out 450 as a DAC for a big upgrade for that rig for little money.
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Maybe the simpliest to do is to list what's you real Choice in HK and then ask us what we would pick in the bunch. My 2 cents.
The ones that I am seriously considering that are mentioned in my original post (Ragnarok, BHA1, CMA800i, and HDVD 800) are all available in Hong Kong. These are all available at the store that I bought my HD 800 from; the shop that I am most comfortable dealing with. I guess I never really thought about some of the other amps mentioned because I am not aware of the availability of them in Hong Kong. If I come across other amps available in Hong Kong that I would be interested in, I will update here to see what you guys think about them.
Thanks for helping out with my search.
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I don't own these, but have heard them all.
Right now the best I have heard is the TOTL EC 2A3 Mk IV (Marv's unit The Studio) with the Yggy. End game for me. (If I sold most of my speaker gear, which is not going to happen.)
The other I would consider is the EC Zana Deux S with Yggy DAC. If you only looking at the HD800's. Read up on what headphones play well with the Zana Deux. The HD600's also sound excellent with this combo.
Last on the end game is EC Black Widow with Yggy. Might be within your budget. My end game. Until the goal posts move. :spank:
You might have noticed I have paired all with Yggy as I only have heard them with the Yggy. Great DAC. Seems to pair well with every amp I have heard with it, no matter price range or type. Hybrid, tube, SS.
One of my favorite pairings I have heard is the Project Ember (mine) with the Yggy on the HD800. I felt it held it's own with the Ragnorak. I am sure others would disagree, but that's what this place is all about.
Thanks Ringingears for your advice and suggestions. I never really considered Eddie Current amps because the ones that I saw in the classifieds were all asking in excess of $4,000 but I guess that is because none of them was the Super. So I guess I assumed that EC's were way out of my budget. But will I need roll the tubes from stock because adding shipping to Hong Kong and replacement tubes would bring it well over my budget since the original cost is already stretching it.
I would like to get the Yggy but that would take away too much from my amp budget. I was hoping that my current DAC is not too much of a bottle neck. In fact, I am not a technical geek so I don't really know much by looking at equipment specifications. Would you have any comments on my DAC (LM 502CA)?
So I will do some reading on the Black Widow and the ZD Super. Thanks again.
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OK in my opinion you can forget the HDVD800. It's usable only with Senns , the SE output is crap . the balanced output has a High output impedance... and the HD800/HDVD800 sound is good but not that impressive. I wouldn't buy that one
The Questyle is not well regarded here so I'd personally forget it as well.
Then remains the Rag and the Bryston. I know AudioGD stuff is not really appreciated here but if you have the opportunity to test the HE-9 somewhere, maybe it deserves a listen.
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OK in my opinion you can forget the HDVD800. It's usable only with Senns , the SE output is crap . the balanced output has a High output impedance... and the HD800/HDVD800 sound is good but not that impressive. I wouldn't buy that one
The Questyle is not well regarded here so I'd personally forget it as well.
Then remains the Rag and the Bryston. I know AudioGD stuff is not really appreciated here but if you have the opportunity to test the HE-9 somewhere, maybe it deserves a listen.
Thank you for your comments. Your thoughts are pretty consistent with most of the sentiments that I have come across during my research. Out of the four that I mentioned, the HDVD 800 was my last option and the Questyle was probably my second last. I will have a better idea next week when I get to try the BHA1. And since I cannot test the Ragnarok yet, I will use the comments regarding how the Rag sounds relative to the BHA1.
Now that you mention the HE-9, I was going to do a little more reading up on it. The funny thing is that even though it is made in some factory that is relatively close to Hong Kong, it is not readily available in Hong Kong as far as I know. Actually prior to me opening up my budget, I was thinking about going for one of the $500-$750 range Audio-GD models, specifically the NFB-28.
Thanks again.
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Thanks Ringingears for your advice and suggestions. I never really considered Eddie Current amps because the ones that I saw in the classifieds were all asking in excess of $4,000 but I guess that is because none of them was the Super. So I guess I assumed that EC's were way out of my budget. But will I need roll the tubes from stock because adding shipping to Hong Kong and replacement tubes would bring it well over my budget since the original cost is already stretching it.
I would like to get the Yggy but that would take away too much from my amp budget. I was hoping that my current DAC is not too much of a bottle neck. In fact, I am not a technical geek so I don't really know much by looking at equipment specifications. Would you have any comments on my DAC (LM 502CA)?
So I will do some reading on the Black Widow and the ZD Super. Thanks again.
Sorry I haven't heard your DAC so I can't comment. Perhaps someone else here has and will comment.
As to the stock ZD S tubes, pretty sure I was listening to the stock ones. Were those stock in SF Marv?
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BW gives you a taste of Eddie current tube clarity and warmth with high end resolution at a more entry level price without the hassle of tubes if you don't like that. I recommend staying away from any current mode amplifiers with the HD800. They remove all the 800's strengths trying to turn the sound into another cheaper phone you should have just bought in the first place. Bryston was meh/okay when it came out, but the world ash already moved waaay past it performance wise.
I know it's tough to listen to the HD800 when you are just starting. Been there, done that. Stick with it and you will be rewarded for your commitment and patience. I've heard pretty much everything out there from the M50 and MS1 to the R10, Orpheus and 009. None of them keep scaling like the HD800. I don't know where the HD800 even ends when rewarding upstream improvements. The others I pretty much do.
Reasons to not commit to an HD800. You need superior distortion free low bass extension, you like a warmer or darker sound to your treble, you like a more forgiving and polite smooth timbre only TF plastics can deliver, you don't think more information and resolution makes music more musical to you, you are a low volume listener, you believe an ODAC and O2 amp are the pinnacle in upstream engineering accomplishment.
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BW gives you a taste of Eddie current tube clarity and warmth with high end resolution at a more entry level price without the hassle of tubes if you don't like that. I recommend staying away from any current mode amplifiers with the HD800. They remove all the 800's strengths trying to turn the sound into another cheaper phone you should have just bought in the first place. Bryston was meh/okay when it came out, but the world ash already moved waaay past it performance wise.
I know it's tough to listen to the HD800 when you are just starting. Been there, done that. Stick with it and you will be rewarded for your commitment and patience. I've heard pretty much everything out there from the M50 and MS1 to the R10, Orpheus and 009. None of them keep scaling like the HD800. I don't know where the HD800 even ends when rewarding upstream improvements. The others I pretty much do.
Reasons to not commit to an HD800. You need superior distortion free low bass extension, you like a warmer or darker sound to your treble, you like a more forgiving and polite smooth timbre only TF plastics can deliver, you don't think more information and resolution makes music more musical to you, you are a low volume listener, you believe an ODAC and O2 amp are the pinnacle in upstream engineering accomplishment.
Thanks Anaxilus. This site is really growing on me. I posted this same message in 'another' website and with it's own thread too, and I have only received one response on it so far. And I posted on there before I posted on here.
The HD 800 was/is my first real high end headphone purchase. I chose it over the TH900 at the time and I have NO regrets of going in this direction.
I like the idea of the BW but I have already prepared my wife on the idea of a TOTL amp purchase, so I want to take full advantage of this opportunity (and hard work that I put into setting this up, lol) since I do not know when my next big purchase will be. I just get the feeling that the BW is good, but that I can still do better within my budget limit.
You recommend to stay away from current made amplifiers, would you include the Ragnarok in that category? So far that is the front runner followed by the BHA1. I will keep what you say about the BHA1 in mind as I make my final list.
So I am committed to my HD 800. I love just about every part of it. I think with the right amp, I would get that extra little bit on the low end, although to be honest, now that I am starting to listen more closely with them, I sometimes feel like I really don't need/want any more there; it is just fine the way it is now. But like I said, since I worked hard to get the green light on a new amp purchase, I would be stupid not to go for it.
So far the Ragnarok is ticking off a lot of my boxes. Hopefully I will get a chance to audition it before I have to make my decision.
Thanks again.
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Thanks Anaxilus. This site is really growing on me. I posted this same message in 'another' website and with it's own thread too, and I have only received one response on it so far. And I posted on there before I posted on here.
The HD 800 was/is my first real high end headphone purchase. I chose it over the TH900 at the time and I have NO regrets of going in this direction.
I like the idea of the BW but I have already prepared my wife on the idea of a TOTL amp purchase, so I want to take full advantage of this opportunity (and hard work that I put into setting this up, lol) since I do not know when my next big purchase will be. I just get the feeling that the BW is good, but that I can still do better within my budget limit.
You recommend to stay away from current made amplifiers, would you include the Ragnarok in that category? So far that is the front runner followed by the BHA1. I will keep what you say about the BHA1 in mind as I make my final list.
So I am committed to my HD 800. I love just about every part of it. I think with the right amp, I would get that extra little bit on the low end, although to be honest, now that I am starting to listen more closely with them, I sometimes feel like I really don't need/want any more there; it is just fine the way it is now. But like I said, since I worked hard to get the green light on a new amp purchase, I would be stupid not to go for it.
So far the Ragnarok is ticking off a lot of my boxes. Hopefully I will get a chance to audition it before I have to make my decision.
Thanks again.
This site is more informative and has less noise. I just replied your PM on the amp choice. I think the Ragnarok is the safest bet (given HK resale values). AFAIK it is not a current mode amp.
Would like to try the new EC BW too but I think availability is an issue? Marv (Purrin) might help you in that regard.
I agree with Anax but with one caveat - I think he is speaking about the modded HD800. I can show you how to mod the HD800 since you are around my vicinity.
At the end of the day, as we discussed earlier, you need to find out whether you like to suppress the weaknesses of the HD800 or take advantage of its strengths. If you like a more forgiving sound signature with warm bass and euphonic vocals, most amps suggested so far in this thread will not be your cup of tea. But if those are your preferences you are better off with an LCD3 for instance.
I know I like to bring the best out of the strengths of the HD800, so that's why I'm using it with the EC 445.
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...I know it's tough to listen to the HD800 when you are just starting. Been there, done that. Stick with it and you will be rewarded for your commitment and patience.
Bingo. My first amp with the HD800 was the Little Dot MKIV SE. It sounded like utter crap.
The Woo WA5 also left MUCH to be desired until I spent more on tubes than the amp itself.
And then came the EC 445 and Teton which are just on a wholly different level.
And Anax is saying that the HD800 can still keep scaling with the EC Studio, etc. Jesus christ!
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I agree with Anax but with one caveat - I think he is speaking about the modded HD800. I can show you how to mod the HD800 since you are around my vicinity.
That's true. I often forget to caveat. I tried listening to a stock HD800 from a Decware ZMF was using yesterday and it was awful. The amp didn't help for sure.
Just remember I tend to talk in terms of driver capabilities. I don't have stock anything in my life.
Don't be fooled. The BW is superior to the BHA1, GSX mk whatever and Questyle or Bakoon by a wide margin. You might not be paying ToTL price, but it you consider those amps ToTL based on price their sound will disappoint next to the BW. If you want to pay more, the ZD Super is very very good.
Not the Ragnarok, it's not a 'current mode' amp in the way the Questyle and Bakoon advertise.
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I've owned a dynalo, dynahi, balanced dynahi (significantly better than the gsx mk2 in my experience), and the KSA-5 Klone. The Black Widow is a significant step up from all of them.
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I tried listening to a stock HD800 from a Decware ZMF was using yesterday and it was awful. The amp didn't help for sure.
That's the Decware for planars. They also make an OTL (which I haven't heard).
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That's the Decware for planars. They also make an OTL (which I haven't heard).
Yeah, the OTLs I've heard sounded better with the HD800. What are they doing that makes it for planars?
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What are they doing that makes it for planars?
I've never talked with Steve from Decware but my understanding is that he designed it for the original LCD2/3 and power output into 50 ohms and up is constant.
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Reasons to not commit to an HD800 [SNIP] you are a low volume listener.
Can you elaborate more on this?
What are headphones that benefit a low volume listener?
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Can you elaborate more on this?
What are headphones that benefit a low volume listener?
Stax/Planars
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This site is more informative and has less noise. I just replied your PM on the amp choice. I think the Ragnarok is the safest bet (given HK resale values). AFAIK it is not a current mode amp.
Would like to try the new EC BW too but I think availability is an issue? Marv (Purrin) might help you in that regard.
I agree with Anax but with one caveat - I think he is speaking about the modded HD800. I can show you how to mod the HD800 since you are around my vicinity.
At the end of the day, as we discussed earlier, you need to find out whether you like to suppress the weaknesses of the HD800 or take advantage of its strengths. If you like a more forgiving sound signature with warm bass and euphonic vocals, most amps suggested so far in this thread will not be your cup of tea. But if those are your preferences you are better off with an LCD3 for instance.
I know I like to bring the best out of the strengths of the HD800, so that's why I'm using it with the EC 445.
The Ragnarok is a pretty safe bet here because I should be able to recover most of my cost upon resale. So the risk is not too bad for the benefit of a long home trial.
So you are interested in the EC BW as well? Looks like we have to find a way to get one of them to Hong Kong for us to try out and expand the market for EC. ;) Hopefully Marv can help us out and we can return the favour somehow.
If you are serious about showing me how to do the mod to my HD 800, I am interested. As long as it is reversible, as I understand that they are because I do not have sibilance issues.
I am in the 'take advantage of the HD 800s strengths' camp. I will never sell my HD 800. If I ever want a forgiving sound signature with warm bass, which will only be on rare occassions, I will go for a second HP instead. That is why I was thinking about squeezing in the LCD-XC closed HP with this purchase (hoping the wife will not notice that I actually bought two things).
I would love to hear what the EC 445 sounds like. ;) lol
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...
Don't be fooled. The BW is superior to the BHA1, GSX mk whatever and Questyle or Bakoon by a wide margin. You might not be paying ToTL price, but it you consider those amps ToTL based on price their sound will disappoint next to the BW. If you want to pay more, the ZD Super is very very good.
Not the Ragnarok, it's not a 'current mode' amp in the way the Questyle and Bakoon advertise.
Now you have peaked mine, and I am sure lojay's curiosity on this amp as well. But the EC website shows that this little amp is sold out for now.
I will have to see how I can get a hold of the ZD Super (this is the same thing as the ZD S right?) here in Hong Kong.
I will have to look up 'current mode' (Note to self, not current made. lol).
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I've owned a dynalo, dynahi, balanced dynahi (significantly better than the gsx mk2 in my experience), and the KSA-5 Klone. The Black Widow is a significant step up from all of them.
Thanks for helping Anaxilus in making my amp search complicated again. I was very set on getting the Ragnarok. It is still the simplest solution/purchase for me. So we'll just have to see how accessible the EC is in Hong Kong.
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Ragnarok is still a great amp compared to the others mentioned. A no brainer for speaker output on top of it.
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ES5 vs. UERM. What I've gathered is that the ES5 hits a bit harder, is a tad shelved up top etc. but both are reasonably neutral (not my primary goal).
Disregarding soundstage stuff and all that, how do you guys, especially Anax, think the ES5 bass is better? More impactful with quicker transients? How about tunefulness / pitch definition, tonal accuracy/dynamics etc.?
Kind of set on UERM's already, since I really like the HD800 even unmodded (though that cuts away quite a lot of music I enjoy listening). If the comments about the UERM's "loose bass" are something like HD800 vs. the best orthos, I could live with that. I actually prefer HD800 bass to pretty much everything out there.
Thanks for any input!
Sorry for the last minute attempts at fishing for info. Audiologist is already booked.
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ES5 vs. UERM. What I've gathered is that the ES5 hits a bit harder, is a tad shelved up top etc. but both are reasonably neutral (not my primary goal).
Disregarding soundstage stuff and all that, how do you guys, especially Anax, think the ES5 bass is better? More impactful with quicker transients? How about tunefulness / pitch definition, tonal accuracy/dynamics etc.?
Kind of set on UERM's already, since I really like the HD800 even unmodded (though that cuts away quite a lot of music I enjoy listening). If the comments about the UERM's "loose bass" are something like HD800 vs. the best orthos, I could live with that. I actually prefer HD800 bass to pretty much everything out there.
Thanks for any input!
Sorry for the last minute attempts at fishing for info. Audiologist is already booked.
UERMs with loose bass? Says who? The uerm's bass is fast and fairly tight.
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Fairly far in between, but Tyll mentioned something like this in the CIEM comparison. Could be the circumstances weren't ideal and some just echo his words, which isn't too uncommon.
http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/totl-madness-24-top-line-custom-ear-monitors-reviewed-tyll-hertsens
"Lacking in punch" is usually something I kind of see as a good thing.
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UERM ideally has quicker, cleaner, more linear bass than ES5. ES5 is boosted just a tad as a stage monitor and it hits harder, sounds a bit larger and extends lower.
Tyll likes a little more room gain in the low end than what most would consider neutral. Nothing wrong with that. Plus there's upstream choices and decisions. If I use my Leckerton in low gain, the UERM will hit a little softer than it would in high gain. So listening level and channel imbalance issues could come into play with impressions. As usual, YMMV and the devil is in the details.
One other note, my last UERM custom was returned due to issues which I believe were acoustic in nature due to how they were constructed which included a fuzzier indistinct bass. My latest redo set sounds pretty spot on just as the demo and my modded set sound.
Lots of variables to parse when you want to really get an accurate frame of reference. That's why people eventually find people who hear and listen like you do. It's our intuitive way of parsing lots of potentially frivolous data.
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Warning: Not about headphone stuff so pls delete if this is coloring outside the pirate lines.
I'm looking for a speaker amp for my KEF LS50's (to replace a REGA Brio-r).
Does anyone have experience with Odyssey's Khartago amp and Candela pre-amp? I listen in a small apt at low-medium volumes so I don't need anything powerful.
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If anyone knows of someone in California, preferably NorCal, that can repair Quad 2805's please let me know. I think it is a problem with the circuit board, not the panels. I can drive them there.
Thanks,
Ron
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UERM ideally has quicker, cleaner, more linear bass than ES5. ES5 is boosted just a tad as a stage monitor and it hits harder, sounds a bit larger and extends lower.
Tyll likes a little more room gain in the low end than what most would consider neutral. Nothing wrong with that. Plus there's upstream choices and decisions. If I use my Leckerton in low gain, the UERM will hit a little softer than it would in high gain. So listening level and channel imbalance issues could come into play with impressions. As usual, YMMV and the devil is in the details.
One other note, my last UERM custom was returned due to issues which I believe were acoustic in nature due to how they were constructed which included a fuzzier indistinct bass. My latest redo set sounds pretty spot on just as the demo and my modded set sound.
Lots of variables to parse when you want to really get an accurate frame of reference. That's why people eventually find people who hear and listen like you do. It's our intuitive way of parsing lots of potentially frivolous data.
Quicker and cleaner sounds better to my ears. CIEM virgin, but have heard potential in lower end armature iem's. I don't think the UERM will disappoint vs. those anyhow.
But you're absolutely right about having a frame of reference. I hope they'll be spot on from the get go and won't have to go on a journey for the ultimate CIEM. I am not that picky when it comes to neutrality, but I expect other technicalities to be above par. However the general concencus on these seems to be almost unanimous.. I'm sure I'll experience something new and learn to appreciate new attributes, even though they might not be the holy grail.
I remember you reading about your UERM travels. Good to know if something doesn't sound right, it might be an acoustic problem. Anyway, we will see.
Happened to get a pair of QC25's for 20eur (no bag, cables or anything). Will definitely try to use those as extra attenuators. Should be nice.
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Alright, ordered some new earpads for my fiancé's headphones. She has the Panasonic RP-HTX7, an inexpensive pair found here:
official product page: http://shop.panasonic.com/audio-and-video/headphones/over-ear-on-ear-headphones/RP-HTX7-K1.html
some goldenears measurements: http://en.goldenears.net/7228
Not hi-fi but honestly not bad and very comfortable.
She is VERY aesthetics minded and isn't nearly as into music as I am, but she does listen to a lot of podcasts, watch Youtube videos and listen to some music. I also think a good pair might make her want to listen more.
She works in an open office so closed is good.
The new (2.0) Sennheiser Momentum is an almost perfect aesthetic match and seems to be pretty well respected but boy is it expensive.
Does anyone have recommendations, either new or used, for under $200? Preferably closer to $100.
I will note that I gave my grandpa a pair of Senn HD598 and she thought those were a lot more attractive than my HD600.
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You should be able to find a used Momentum1 for under $200. Heck, you can probably buy them new at that if you snoop around.
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Amazon Warehouse Deals have the Momentum 1.0 for around $130. I'll probably be picking up a pair this weekend myself.
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This is probably one of the dumber questions here, but do cables make any major difference with the HD800? Im personally looking at the Draug or Solv X. Mainly the Draug cause it looks prettier.
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This is probably one of the dumber questions here, but do cables make any major difference with the HD800? Im personally looking at the Draug or Solv X. Mainly the Draug cause it looks prettier.
One difference I can guarantee is that it will allow you to sit a little further away from the amp if you choose the appropriate length.
Having said that, I like my Wywires RED.
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This is probably one of the dumber questions here, but do cables make any major difference with the HD800? Im personally looking at the Draug or Solv X. Mainly the Draug cause it looks prettier.
There is a pretty robust discussion of HD800 cables here: http://www.changstar.com/index.php/topic,1523.0.html
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A question for those of you who use the Geek Out as a DAC only with another amp...do you connect the amp to the 0.47 Ω jack or the 47 Ω jack? I hope this isn't too dumb of a question. I've been using the 47 Ω since that's what the manual says to use to connect it to speakers.
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The 47 Ohm one is the right one to use with an external amp.
6. 0.47 Ohm 1/8" TRS Headphone Jack
7. 47 Ohm 1/8" TRS Headphone/Line Out Jack
http://support.lhlabs.com/support/solutions/articles/5000564236-geek-out-setup-and-user-guide
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The 47 Ohm one is the right one to use with an external amp.
http://support.lhlabs.com/support/solutions/articles/5000564236-geek-out-setup-and-user-guide
Ah, somehow I didn't catch that. Thanks.
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I'm having a bit of a conundrum. I recently got a too-good-to-pass-up deal on a pair of LCD 2F, but my amplification is all geared towards portable stuff. I currently have a GO450 and a Leck UHA-6s mkII, but I'm looking for something with a bit more oomph that is still transportable. I have a GO V2 on preorder, which strikes me as a decent solution, but won't have that until November unless they get ahead of schedule. I could spring for a GO1000 right now, and/or spend up to $1000 in the next couple months for something nicer. What else should I be considering? Cavalli Liquid Carbon? I can buy a fair amount of stuff locally at well below MSRP: Fostex, Bakoon, Phonitor Mini, Unison SH, iFi, PS Sprout.
What say you?
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I'm having a bit of a conundrum. I recently got a too-good-to-pass-up deal on a pair of LCD 2F, but my amplification is all geared towards portable stuff. I currently have a GO450 and a Leck UHA-6s mkII, but I'm looking for something with a bit more oomph that is still transportable. I have a GO V2 on preorder, which strikes me as a decent solution, but won't have that until November unless they get ahead of schedule. I could spring for a GO1000 right now, and/or spend up to $1000 in the next couple months for something nicer. What else should I be considering? Cavalli Liquid Carbon? I can buy a fair amount of stuff locally at well below MSRP: Fostex, Bakoon, Phonitor Mini, Unison SH, iFi, PS Sprout.
What say you?
IMO - I'd use what you already own for now, wait out the delivery of your Geek Out v2, and pick up a Cavalli Liquid Carbon to pair with it.
The only problem with that strategy is it lacks any sort of immediate gratification ;)
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Guys, I need an AMP/DAC for my coming AKG K7XX Headphone.
Which would be better among the three? Cayin C5DAC, Oppo HA-2 or JDS Labs C5D?
Any other amp/dac will be appreciated. Thanks! :)
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I don't have personal experience with the first two, but I did not find the 7xx a good match with my c5d when I had the c5d. The leckerton gave a fuller, cleaner sound. Also, I really disliked the bass boost implementation on the c5d generally. I thought it might have been useful especially with iems, but the channel balance was messed up with bass boost on and it muddied things instead of just boosting. Have always been curious about the HA-2, less so the Cayin.
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I don't have personal experience with the first two, but I did not find the 7xx a good match with my c5d when I had the c5d. The leckerton gave a fuller, cleaner sound. Also, I really disliked the bass boost implementation on the c5d generally. I thought it might have been useful especially with iems, but the channel balance was messed up with bass boost on and it muddied things instead of just boosting. Have always been curious about the HA-2, less so the Cayin.
Thank you for your inputs, which Leckerton amp/dac were you referring to?
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I hope this hasn't been covered already. My friend's 15 year old wants a recommendation for a full size, over the ear headphone he can listen to on his Galaxy S3, soon to be upgraded to an S5. I pointed him here and headfi but he quickly got overwhelmed by all the differing opinions and tech talk. So we talked a bit and not being a sound nut like me, that got nowhere fast :)p13. So I backed up, simplified, and basically he likes medium to heavy bass but he wants clarity too, he listens mostly to pop, rock, etc. Something under $200. Probably should be something pretty sturdy. Opinions?
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Closed or open? NVX XPT100 or ATH-M50 might be the ticket:
1) Full sized
2) A little bit of bass (AT have more bass than XPT100)
3) Easy to drive
4) Closed <--- assumption here
5) All have good fidelity for the price
See cheap headphone comparo:
http://www.changstar.com/index.php/topic,2013.msg54989.html#msg54989 (http://www.changstar.com/index.php/topic,2013.msg54989.html#msg54989)
There are some others I can think of, but they are not full sized.
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Thx purr1n, very helpful
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hello,
Mrs. Forbin is very happy with the V-Moda XS and the kids are now sporting the V-Moda M-80. their all driven by smartphones with no complaints, and they appear to be built like tanks.
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Hey all,
One of my first audio purchases with the HD 800 was the Woo Audio WA7 (I know) and I'd like to upgrade. I'd describe the WA7 as a little bit on the slow side with this pairing. What I would like to know is there a DAC and amp at around the $1400 price range that would offer some improvement and what type of improvement.
With a lack of gear to demo where I live, I'm a bit dependent on trusting the ears of others. I guess what I'm really concerned with is how much performance that budget can give me out of the HD 800s since the other option is to keep saving towards the end game stage.
I was considering getting the Schiit Gungnir with the USB upgrade and the Valhalla 2 based on comments and reviews from around here.
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Hey all,
One of my first audio purchases with the HD 800 was the Woo Audio WA7 (I know) and I'd like to upgrade. I'd describe the WA7 as a little bit on the slow side with this pairing. What I would like to know is there a DAC and amp at around the $1400 price range that would offer some improvement and what type of improvement.
With a lack of gear to demo where I live, I'm a bit dependent on trusting the ears of others. I guess what I'm really concerned with is how much performance that budget can give me out of the HD 800s since the other option is to keep saving towards the end game stage.
I was considering getting the Schiit Gungnir with the USB upgrade and the Valhalla 2 based on comments and reviews from around here.
Do you still want to maintain the warm tone of the WA7? Can you wait a few months?
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Do you still want to maintain the warm tone of the WA7? Can you wait a few months?
More hint-dropping about the reDACted?
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Do you still want to maintain the warm tone of the WA7?
Nope.
Can you wait a few months?
Yep! Something exciting coming... :)p7
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Any recommends for an affordable CD Player? Some form of digital out required. It will feed to my gungnir then whatever amp.
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I need a second car when I move to Denver and a relative will sell me a Forrester with 20k miles at a low enough price it would be stupid to buy something exciting + I have tiny children and I'm in the at-least-its-not-a-minivan stage of my life. Thing is, the sound system is really terrible. I don't usually care too much about car stereos, but I find it excruciating to listen to with any kind of volume. I don't know the first thing about car audio. Say I were to spend 1k; what would give me the most bang for the buck? Don't need moar bass thump; just want to up the bar a little. Thanks in advance for any help.
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Any recommends for an affordable CD Player? Some form of digital out required. It will feed to my gungnir then whatever amp.
A computer.
Seriously. I've given up on hif-fi-component CD players.
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A computer.
Seriously. I've given up on hif-fi-component CD players.
This is the exact inverse of my problem! I don't need a computer where my primary listening happens (I kind of don't want to need one either). When I need digital music, I can hook up my laptop, but more and more I have been using CDs
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I'm having a novel problem and I'm hoping that someone here has encountered it before/knows what to do to fix it.
I replaced my Gustard U12 with a Ciunas Converter. This change in my chain sounds fantastic...with 16/44 or 16/48 files. Whenever I try to play a 24 bit file in JRMC or Audirvana Plus, it plays back incredibly slowly. Crazy slowly.
The Amanero board has way of changing the bit rate settings in the Apple MIDI settings - and it seems to be trying to output at 32 bit.
Any advice people have would be appreciated. As far as pickles go, this one's a dilly.
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what DAC are you using?
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what DAC are you using?
Sonic Frontiers TransDAC :0
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Sonic Frontiers TransDAC :0
Taking advantage of the wonderful I-94 rest stop wi-fi to post this: Problem Solved! Bitrate wasn't the problem; changing the output sample rate to 44.1 from 48 seems to have done the trick. For some reason 48 didn't choke up the Gustard. So that's that! It works (and sounds) great.
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This is the exact inverse of my problem! I don't need a computer where my primary listening happens (I kind of don't want to need one either). When I need digital music, I can hook up my laptop, but more and more I have been using CDs
OK. Well, this is what I did, on the advice of the aged electronics guru who told me that my CD player cannot be repaired: I put a spare DVD player in the stack.
Very, very affordable, if you can live with the zero audiophile points.
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Any recommends for an affordable CD Player? Some form of digital out required. It will feed to my gungnir then whatever amp.
I snagged a cheap DVD player and it works fine, via coax out (Samsung DVD-C500, feeding a number of DAC's). It sounds better than another unit I had (a Marantz SACD-8004) as a transport. A tad noisy but for $20, it looks and sounds good.
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Does anyone know a headphone stand in the market that has a hole for a typical 1/4" (6.3mm) TRS plug?
Fostex TH900's old headphone stand used to have that for protecting the plug, but it was too wobbly and impossible to use.
A good quality stand that has hole for protecting the headphone's TRS plug?
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I snagged a cheap DVD player and it works fine, via coax out (Samsung DVD-C500, feeding a number of DAC's). It sounds better than another unit I had (a Marantz SACD-8004) as a transport. A tad noisy but for $20, it looks and sounds good.
Add the old Philips, Marantz and Sony CD-players with the solid transports and TDA15xx-series DAC chips. There are some very good ones that are very reliable, easy to maintain and can sound very good. Some 80ties and 90ties CD-players are still good value yet look like black boxes.
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This is the exact inverse of my problem! I don't need a computer where my primary listening happens (I kind of don't want to need one either). When I need digital music, I can hook up my laptop, but more and more I have been using CDs
Old PS1. SCPH-1001. Trust me, it sounds good! Also you can replace the output stage to make it even MORE POWERFUL.
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Old PS1. SCPH-1001. Trust me, it sounds good! Also you can replace the output stage to make it even MORE POWERFUL.
The price is jacked up on these now and look at these.
http://www.stereophile.com/content/sony-playstation-1-cd-player-measurements
Overall, this is a pretty poor set of measurements. I wonder, therefore, if the "magic" of the PlayStation 1's sound lies not in its technical excellence but in the fact that it smears over and disguises much of what is wrong with typical CD sound quality, to which it adds a touch of low-level compression from the linearity error.
I'd go with what other people have said, just pick up a half-decent DVD or Blu-ray player off of craigslist or Amazon and use digital out. If you can find someone selling a stand-alone CD deck from the last ten years then right on. Marantz or Sony's EX line or any "premium" product post-2000 ought to have no problem.
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Thanks for feedback all. Yup. Vintage CD from the 90's / 00's looks like the way to go. I have a couple of connections in town, and am going to try and track down something gathering dust in some old, rich asshole's basement.
FWIW, I have read about the PS1 childhood-hack before, and briefly pursued it, but I have plenty of other unicorns to chase, and most those have digital output.
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The PS1 hack is a total urban legend. I've read reviews comparing it to real quality transports of its day and it got crushed. There's even an old Stereophile review of it where I think Atkinson even measured it. It's not even flat and had other serious issues. Don't waste your time. The Ps1 hack is just more vintage audiophool internet garbage mythology like the DT48 and other unobtanium stuff that was really just crap to begin with.
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Anyone have any good experiences with Bluetooth headphones ?
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Anyone have any good experiences with Bluetooth headphones ?
Nope. Was not impressed at all by 1RBT, BT Momentum and Parrot Zik 2.0. You're paying a big premium for just being cordless. They're ok-ish sounding if they're 200 less than their MSRP.
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Thanks for feedback all. Yup. Vintage CD from the 90's / 00's looks like the way to go. I have a couple of connections in town, and am going to try and track down something gathering dust in some old, rich asshole's basement.
FWIW, I have read about the PS1 childhood-hack before, and briefly pursued it, but I have plenty of other unicorns to chase, and most those have digital output.
If room is an issue some old disc-mans can be good. Make sure the powersupply by batteries and plug is still in good order. I like a big CD-player. More buttons, more functionality.
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Called the audiologist today. Gonna get impressions made soon! UE custom earplugs first (I play music at high volumes at least twice a week and see shows 1-2 times a week; currently wear the Xtreme Hearos). Then down the line I'm thinking UE4.
SO: What custom earplugs do you recommend or have experience with?
I know there is UE, Etymotic and Westone.
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I'm back at this again if anyone remembers, but this time it's easier:
Any recommendation for an integrated amp. for LS50's? I'd jump at the Rag in a heartbeat, but really need a remote and if it can stay under $1.5k my back account will be very happy.
Thanks :)
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Seriously get the rag. Just do it. Your ears will thank you.
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Seriously get the rag. Just do it. Your ears will thank you.
Yeah, but the wife really needs the remote. Plus my 1.5 year old now plays with every control I touch. Found out how loud a deepblue2 can go a couple of nights back. Frightened the crap out of both of us!
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Looking for a recommendation for headphones to wear for running...
I have a set of cheap Philips that do the job just fine, only the fuxoring drivers keep failing after 2-3 months... http://www.usa.philips.com/c-p/SHQ3205_28/sports-earhook-headset
I was thinking of going with these, but I'd probably end up butchering the cable to remove the controls. http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Adidas-Sports-In-Ear-Headphones/dp/B0094R2HZQ
I'd probably like something with the same earhook style, and preferably no controls in the cable. I also don't mind paying more, if they will last longer than 2-3 months before failing. It seriously messes with my chi.
Any suggestions would be awesome. :)p2
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I really like my Senn PX100 ii. Disappears on my head and no microphonics.
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Has anyone heard the Pro-ject Maia? On paper seems pretty good for a second system? Or maybe it's just a class d trying a little too hard?
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Looking for low to mid price solid state amp suggestions. Right now I have a nuforce ha-200, which sounds too smooth and syrupy to me at times. Using DAC 19, HE-400I, and TH600.
I'm thinking about an AGD C2 to match the DAC 19, but it's kind of expensive. Should I just get a magni 2? Perhaps a Custard h10?
I've also been hankering for a leckerton to replace my cayin c5... Is it just as good as the other 2? I don't necessarily need a separate home amp.
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Looking for low to mid price solid state amp suggestions. Right now I have a nuforce ha-200, which sounds too smooth and syrupy to me at times. Using DAC 19, HE-400I, and TH600.
I'm thinking about an AGD C2 to match the DAC 19, but it's kind of expensive. Should I just get a magni 2? Perhaps a Custard h10?
I've also been hankering for a leckerton to replace my cayin c5... Is it just as good as the other 2? I don't necessarily need a separate home amp.
Hi Manbear! All of this YMMV, IMO, etc. etc.
In this bracket, the Custard H10, Asgard 2, Project Polaris, and the Leckerton are all incredibly solid options. I think the Asgard 2 is a substantial step up over the M2Ü and is worth the additional cost.
I preferred the Leckerton UHA.6S MKII w/ 4627-1BRZ Opamp to all of them - felt it was the cleanest, most tonally even, and most resolving of the lot. Given your headphone choices (the 400i and TH-600) it would probably be my choice. My choice might not be your choice though, so here's a few quick differentiating comments for the rest:
- The Project Polaris is designed to emulate the harmonic distortion traditionally associated with tubes. In this way, it sounds more "tubey" than the other solid state options in the bracket. Project Ember, depending on the input tube used, can even sound more solid state than Polaris. If you're looking for something clean and not syrupy but with a little bit of a euphonic tilt, the Polaris is great for that.
- The Gustard H10 is the most open and airy of the bunch. Out of the box, it's a very good match for both planars and Sennheiser 6XX dynamics - so that's a plus. It's also a very good "tweaker" solid state amp as it has rollable opamps. Hans has had some very good success with rolling opamps in the Gustard. If that's your thing, then for the price I don't think you can do better.
- The Asgard 2 is a pretty neutral, rather smooth solid state amp. It's more closed sounding than the Gustard. I liked it better with planar dynamic headphones (T50rp mods, midrange HiFiMans) than with dynamic drivers. It's kinda the opposite of the stock Gustard H10 - the Gustard with stock opamps seemed to lighten up or even out the bass a bit on my headphones. The Asgard 2 gripped the bass on my phones hard.
Out of the four options here, only two have preamp outputs, the Project Polaris and the Asgard 2, so if you want to connect active desktop speakers those are the best options for that. If you need to keep your desk warm on cold evenings, the Asgard 2 will get that done for you. (It's pure class A, so it gets pretty damn warm.)
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Thanks for the detailed reply Austin :)p1
I do more listening at work than at home, so I think I'll start with the leck. It's also cheap enough that I wouldn't feel compelled to sell the nuforce right away. Then I can re-evaluate how much its smoothness really bothers me... Don't want to go too far in the opposite direction.
Plus, if the leck is the cleanest and most resolving of the bunch, it's probably my first choice anyway. Too bad I didn't get around to listening to yours when I had the chance!
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Whether anyone had experience with German Maestro GMP 8.35 D, compared it to others and/or mixed on them? How does they stand against Audio-Technica ATH M50?
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German Maestro GMP 8.35 D
If that's the OE clone also labelled under DBI and MB Quart from years ago, totally different. Assuming it's the same, it's incredibly clear and a midrange to treble specialist on the analytical side. M50 has extra mid bass and for many a perceptible recessed midrange which my have been fixed with more recent versions.
Keep in mind, the M50 and DBI/Maestro/MB Quart units I used to have were compared about 4-5 years ago. After I sold both, I missed them for different reasons. I miss neither now with my current rig obviously. I have thought about picking up a DBI every now and again just to reminisce as it's a durable junker phone you can toss around like the T50RP or HD25.
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If that's the OE clone also labelled under DBI and MB Quart from years ago, totally different. Assuming it's the same, it's incredibly clear and a midrange to treble specialist on the analytical side. M50 has extra mid bass and for many a perceptible recessed midrange which my have been fixed with more recent versions.
Keep in mind, the M50 and DBI/Maestro/MB Quart units I used to have were compared about 4-5 years ago. After I sold both, I missed them for different reasons. I miss neither now with my current rig obviously. I have thought about picking up a DBI every now and again just to reminisce as it's a durable junker phone you can toss around like the T50RP or HD25.
Thank you!
I was planning to buy M50 in the future, but when I tried them I just didn't like them for some reason. They were too much forward, then I stumbled on German Maestro recommendation, that I can't test here.
What would you recommend in that price range, since you really don't dig both of them? P.S. It's mainly for mixing.
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Thank you!
I was planning to buy M50 in the future, but when I tried them I just didn't like them for some reason. They were too much forward, then I stumbled on German Maestro recommendation, that I can't test here.
What would you recommend in that price range, since you really don't dig both of them? P.S. It's mainly for mixing.
Ask Tiemen on HF for advice on German Maestro. He used to be about AKG and Beyerdynamic until German Maestro launched the 8.3. Maybe Solderdude has some measurements somewhere.
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Ask Tiemen on HF for advice on German Maestro. He used to be about AKG and Beyerdynamic until German Maestro launched the 8.3. Maybe Solderdude has some measurements somewhere.
Will do, thanks!
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This is the guy.
http://www.head-fi.org/u/71967/tiemen
Check his posts and you will learn a lot.
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Third player in the game! Any expirience with Brainwavz HM5/NVX-XPT100 especially comparing to two already mentioned? I've read they are very neutral, however, as much as I don't like too much bass, I also don't like when it's lower then mids.
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The price is jacked up on these now and look at these.
http://www.stereophile.com/content/sony-playstation-1-cd-player-measurements
I just saw someone selling one on ebay for $80 0.o holy crap, $5 and some spare parts for me!
The PS1 hack is a total urban legend. I've read reviews comparing it to real quality transports of its day and it got crushed. There's even an old Stereophile review of it where I think Atkinson even measured it. It's not even flat and had other serious issues. Don't waste your time. The Ps1 hack is just more vintage audiophool internet garbage mythology like the DT48 and other unobtanium stuff that was really just crap to begin with.
A good 80% of this hobby is bullshit. I said it sounded good, not measured well (Much like my Polk Monitor 10's!):P
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Any suggestion of a crazy basshead (C)IEM? Sonically as close as TH900?
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Any suggestion of a crazy basshead (C)IEM? Sonically as close as TH900?
Out of the CIEMs I've heard, I think the UE11 is the most comparable product. Punchy bass and a really involving sound, it's probably my favorite of the UE line up.
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Hd800/t1/lcd2; what would be a good 4th can that isn't stax/hifiman?
I was thinking maybe ad2000x and/or k812?
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Any suggestion of a crazy basshead (C)IEM? Sonically as close as TH900?
My horn mod of the T50RP is for bass heads : (http://t.co/8AiFewonmr) http://t.co/8AiFewonmr
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My horn mod of the T50RP is for bass heads : http://t.co/8AiFewonmr
Whoa (use your Neo voice)
Gives new meaning to the term "cans".
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Hd800/t1/lcd2; what would be a good 4th can that isn't stax/hifiman?
I was thinking maybe ad2000x and/or k812?
Sell t1 and LCD-2, get either Abyss or HE1000. Or, if you're the type, track down a code-x.
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Hd800/t1/lcd2; what would be a good 4th can that isn't stax/hifiman?
I was thinking maybe ad2000x and/or k812?
Collecting all the flagship toys? Maybe Fostex TH900.
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Hd800/t1/lcd2; what would be a good 4th can that isn't stax/hifiman?
I was thinking maybe ad2000x and/or k812?
How about getting better upstream gear so you can sell the T1 and maybe the LCD2. Especially if its a fazor.
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Out of the CIEMs I've heard, I think the UE11 is the most comparable product. Punchy bass and a really involving sound, it's probably my favorite of the UE line up.
sorry, but I feel obliged to mention that I was one of the first people to use an ue11 (back when it was being tested with soft tips), and I sold it after marv measured it ;-)
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Collecting all the flagship toys? Maybe Fostex TH900.
what's an honestly decent price for a TH900?
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what's an honestly decent price for a TH900?
800 USD was what I've paid, second hand but absolutely mint. And BTW I have a special romance with TH900 so probably other folks here would suggest a even lower price.
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800 USD was what I've paid, second hand but absolutely mint. And BTW I have a special romance with TH900 so probably other folks here would suggest a even lower price.
And Griffon, if I may ask... how about for a Liquid Crimson? ;)
Just a little joke between friends... one of which has a horseshoe somewhere it doesn't belong.
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I actually like the AT W5000 which can be had for 650-700 at times. Have it.
But it's not neutral. Sounds much better than the strange FR curve suggests, for JPOP and orchestral. If you like that sort of stuff you might want to try that.
TH900 is a great HP too, agree. Don't have it but listened to it. Same, good for JPOP and orchestral.
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I actually like the AT W5000 which can be had for 650-700 at times. Have it.
But it's not neutral. Sounds much better than the strange FR curve suggests, for JPOP and orchestral. If you like that sort of stuff you might want to try that.
TH900 is a great HP too, agree. Don't have it but listened to it. Same, good for JPOP and orchestral.
Ooh, I listen to a lot of JPop, I was concerned that the recessed mids might pose a problem with that.
I was also looking into the AT W5000, but wasn't sure which one was better as it seems there is hardly any people who have tried both TH900 and W5000.
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Ooh, I listen to a lot of JPop, I was concerned that the recessed mids might pose a problem with that.
I was also looking into the AT W5000, but wasn't sure which one was better as it seems there is hardly any people who have tried both TH900 and W5000.
I used to own the W5000 and I've tried the TH900 numerous times. The W5000 sounds weird. I had to bend them to hell to get them to fit my head but after I went through that work they were significantly less thin than before the bending. It had a about as much bass impact as the HE500 but a strangely cold and distant midrange, save for the upper mids which were hyped up to accentuate female vocals. It doesn't work with much music but like most of AT's other headphones, if you find something it works with, they're really enjoyable. I'd pick the TH900 almost every time unless you really, really like JPop. It's much more coherent and natural.
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So I'm seriously considering Don's LCD-3 (quite a legend according to Ravi) as part of my hunt for ortho. My biggest thing is how it compares to Code-X, which I immensely liked at CanJam.
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Anyone heard the akg k181 dj? Is it any good? i'm looking for something a bit more lively in the treble with a bit more sub bass than my sennheiser hd 518.
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Has anyone heard the Savant with the Angie side by side?
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Anyone heard the akg k181 dj? Is it any good? i'm looking for something a bit more lively in the treble with a bit more sub bass than my sennheiser hd 518.
Decent, good isolation, but clamps quite a bit. Overall v-shaped sound; anything like that is going to sound more "lively" than the HD518. The subbass might technically be better but could feel rolled off due to the midbass hump common to many closed cans.
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Any one with experience with the xba-z5? Groupon had it for $400.
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Decent, good isolation, but clamps quite a bit. Overall v-shaped sound; anything like that is going to sound more "lively" than the HD518. The subbass might technically be better but could feel rolled off due to the midbass hump common to many closed cans.
Not too V-shaped. The AKG-midrange is less present but acceptable and vocals still come through well. The stock M50 had less midrange for my ears, almost garbage if you ask me.
The bass is good. The DT1350 rendered bass grooves a little better but the midrange-highs transition with the K181 sounded better for my ears. There is one extra advantage with the K181DJ: bass boost. For some music it works very well.
Check out the measurements Solderdude made.
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Anyone knows how to delete a head-fi account?
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Anyone knows how to delete a head-fi account?
You have to ask for permission from a mod who'll run it up the chain at which point I was told it's 'impossible'. I already tried a few times and the best response I got was permission to go in and manually delete each post one by one. Obviously I have a couple thousand posts over there so didn't bother.
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You have to ask for permission from a mod who'll run it up the chain at which point I was told it's 'impossible'. I already tried a few times and the best response I got was permission to go in and manually delete each post one by one. Obviously I have a couple thousand posts over there so didn't bother.
Thank you Anax. I was truly hoping it won't be like that. I gave them too much credit.
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I imagine the Ashley Madison $20 charge to delete being in the news may give them ideas.
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Ignore me.
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hi!
so I asked a few months back or whenever it was about amp/dac recommendations for he560.
well I have the headphones, got them on a sale for 700ish tax
just realized i can spend a bit more, and would like to get any updates if theres any new gear thats hot now :p
I have a budget of 1000ish canadian and would love to buy in canada, but anything is fine as long as within budget shipping included.
note: budget is meant to include DAC as well!
I like the fr of the he560 as-is quite a lot but i find maybe a little sharp(grainy?) in the treble/upper mids?
would really like good bass control from the amp if possible within budget.
don't care much whether tubes or solid state.
a big plus would be output switching on dac since I use speakers mainly. but I might get a switcher box instead
* note that my impressions are from using them with a cheapo fiio setup as it is what ive got atm :|
thanks!
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I humbly submit the Ember as a recommendation. Yeah I know it's far under your budget, but it's what I have experience pairing the 560 with. I found it better at softening those sharp frequencies (I hope I'm thinking of the same problem areas as you) than the Asgard 2, which seemed like a pretty good amp already.
Of course at your budget, you could start looking at the EC Black Widow. If I had your budget, I know I would.
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I humbly submit the Ember as a recommendation. Yeah I know it's far under your budget, but it's what I have experience pairing the 560 with. I found it better at softening those sharp frequencies (I hope I'm thinking of the same problem areas as you) than the Asgard 2, which seemed like a pretty good amp already.
Of course at your budget, you could start looking at the EC Black Widow. If I had your budget, I know I would.
This. In order of ascending budget: Project Ember, Cavalli Liquid Carbon (which I don't believe is sold out yet, but getting very close), EC Black Widow.
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Anyone here owns or demoed the Custom Art Harmony 8 or the H8 Pro? They are on Massdrop for under $800. Would either be similar in signature to a RE400 or something like a HD600/650? Or should I wait for a UERM drop?
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This. In order of ascending budget: Project Ember, Cavalli Liquid Carbon (which I don't believe is sold out yet, but getting very close), EC Black Widow.
I will be looking all of these up - have not even heard of Black Widow until now!
though the budget of 1000 is supposed to include a DAC - which is just as important.
black widow alone costs 1500 canadian :|
Thank you
re-read my initial post and realized how unclear it is... :)
going to edit it once I am not on a phone keyboard!
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Guys I need guidence to my decision easier and to feel better about myself!
I wanna get rid of my LCD-3Fs, im bored of Audeze's sound and comfort.
Hifiman is in my eyes, HE-1000 or HE-6 I guess... However im not too found of modding in general, and my first impression of the HE-1000 was that their bass might not satisfy me.
I listen to 90% electronic music, so a hard hitting kick drum is importent. Clearity and airness is also importent.
Here's the dilemma:
Return the LCD-3F to the dealer (its amazing that the dealer will allow this as I bought the headphones 3 months ago) and pay 1300 bucks to get the HE-1000 to pair it with my current amp, a Mjolnir. (1300 is bcuz prices are higher in my country).
Or :
Sell LCD-3F for around 1900USD
Buy HE-6 for 1250 (I cant find any used in my country...)
Sell Mjolnir for around 450
Use whats left, hopefully 1150 + my wallet 1300 to get an amp for them.
To give you an idea, a Ragnarok costs 1950 here.
And ofcourse, I always try to save up money, but ive just moved into the city (which is expensive...) so im kinda broke atm :D
Or should I look at something else?
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I listen to 90% electronic music, so a hard hitting kick drum is importent. Clearity and airness is also importent.
Look no further than TH900
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I dont like closed headphones, cause they sound closed :D
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Give the TH900 a try. It doesn't sound closed the way closed headphones sound.
That said, if you go the HE-6 route, I'd maybe keep the Mjolnir. The Rag may not be better than the Mjolnir for the HE-6.
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Aside from physical appearance, TH900 is not a closed headphone.
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Aside from physical appearance, TH900 is not a closed headphone.
It has less isolation than the Phillips X2...
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This. In order of ascending budget: Project Ember, Cavalli Liquid Carbon (which I don't believe is sold out yet, but getting very close), EC Black Widow.
interesting you both suggest project ember- this one is diy only right?
I am very curious now :) i dont mind diy but i dont know if i trust my own skills enough.
as I said earlier, not only is the ec black widow alone over 1000 but also id like a dac in the price as well. :p
the liquid carbon sure looks interesting- have you heard it with the he560?
so for dacs BTW! i need usb since my computer doesnt have spdif.
is gamma2 and wyrd maybe a good option? or the one that was on massdrop recently?
or maybe bifrost w all the fixings?
thank you!
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Ember can be assembled for you, just costs more. I got mine built because I don't know how to DIY anything!
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I'd go Ember built and then wait and get one of the new multi-bit DAC's from Schiit. Not available yet but should be in August. That should probably keep you under budget. Just my two cents.
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I'd go Ember built and then wait and get one of the new multi-bit DAC's from Schiit. Not available yet but should be in August. That should probably keep you under budget. Just my two cents.
multi-bit DAC? theyre making another one?
is there any information regarding this anywhere? I will search more later, but wasnt really able to filter out the yggy from my searches... :)
ok not to be stupid now but is there any other cases being made for the ember?
I saw now that the options allow prebuilt but that case is pretty horrible in my opinion and I would rather not have the open-style case if I can avoid it.
the reviews are pretty stellar of the ember though I must say.
thank you!
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I can get Fostex TH-600 for 610USD (they cost 1080USD in my country), so thats 44% rebate.
Are they much worse than TH-900?
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I can get Fostex TH-600 for 610USD (they cost 1080USD in my country), so thats 44% rebate.
Are they much worse than TH-900?
TH900 is papa Bush, 600 is son Bush
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Looking for ACSS (3pin mini-xlr) cables to connect Audio-gd Master 7 to Master 9.
Any recommendations of Cable manufacturer?
Was thinking of this cable, but the 12 week order lead time is just too much.
http://www.doublehelixcables.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=176
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I can get Fostex TH-600 for 610USD (they cost 1080USD in my country), so thats 44% rebate.
Are they much worse than TH-900?
I don't like the TH900 ( boomy bass and piercing treble.. but overally clean ) but it's a very special headphone and I can understand why people could spend that much money to purchase it. the TH600 is just meh. not bad but meh. Without real interest. Overpriced mid-fi meh headphone imo.
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Yeah im kinda scared away from TH900 bcuz of their treble.
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TH900 is papa Bush, 600 is son Bush
That's a little harsh, they can't be that bad.
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That's a little harsh, they can't be that bad.
Just demonstrating the difference, you know.
TH900 more like Regan: looks good, can be good, fuck thing up in an artful way.
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Anyone here heard the Pioneer SE-Master 1?
I guess I should just stick with the plan of getting HE-6 and save up for a crazy amplifier...
Whats the more affordable amps that drive the shit out of HE-6?
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Marantz 2285. Crazy synergy for a reasonable price. Beware though, these are difficult to get serviced in the event of breakage.
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Oh its vintage...
What about newer stuff? :D
I was lookin at a SimAudio Moon 220i the other day, as I like Moon products, but im not sure...
Its a little cheaper then a Ragnarok, but obviously more power, as its a intregrated.
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Yeah im kinda scared away from TH900 bcuz of their treble.
Treble's a very minor problem IMO, the midrange suckout is the only thing keeping me from praising these things to the heavens.
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hi Pirates!
I don't know if this is the right place for my question... I'll try anyway...
I'm hearing things in my portable setup that are "unnatural" and do sound like "defects".
But I lack vocabulary to be able to explain it. I think what I am hearing is clipping...
So I have two questions:
1. is it possible to have some knowledgable person put examples of audio "defects" (youtube vdo?) with the associated term to define it? Clipping, distortion, saturation... not in terms of measurement but in terms of listening with pieces of music?
2. with my rwak100-s, I hear with some files, what I think is clipping. I have been using it with O2/Arrow and Ie800. where could this defect be coming from? the source file? the player? don't think the iem can be the problem... How can I know if the source file is the culprit?
Please let me know if this is not the right place to post these questions....
cheers!
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I've chosen the Sennheiser HD 600 as my introduction but choosing a DAC/AMP is abit confusing and seems quiet hard to drive (spikes all the way to 550 ohms).
"Spikes all the way to 550 ohms"? What do you mean?
I've noticed that people seem to like to pair tube amps with the hd600 but they dont really appeal to me because they can introduce disortion and colour into the sound and seem inferior to solid state from a glance imo. But if u can change my mind I might be willing to consider them.
It really is safer to trust the advice of the veterans (http://"https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/3ezp5f/so_i_got_the_t1s_today/") on this forum.
Btw, welcome to Changstar! You should introduce yourself on the New Members thread.
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This is what I mean about the spike: http://graphs.headphone.com/graphCompare.php?graphType=7&graphID[]=573&scale=30 (link is bugged copy last bit)
Unless I'm reading this graph wrong I gonna need a amp that can drive headphones upto 600ohms to be safe.
Thank you.
:)p7
You're not misinterpreting the graph's data but you are misunderstanding what it means.
All else equal, higher impedances are easier to drive well because they draw less current from the amplifier which results in less distortion. In the real world all else is rarely equal though, and higher impedance headphones tend to have lower sensitivity than lower impedance models so you need to look at the efficiency specs to determine what amplifiers will be suitable for your needs.
Based on Tyll's measurements (http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/SennheiserHD600.pdf), the HD600s have a sensitivity of around 103dB/V (which is quite a bit higher than the 97dB/V that Senn themselves specify...) so, for example an output of 7.3 volts RMS (pretty much the O2's max on AC into higher impedance loads) will give you around 120db peaks which is plenty of head room. I like the O2 just fine with my HD650s but other people around here will have different suggestions. Pretty much anything they recommend is going to have enough voltage swing though.
That peak in the HD600's impedance become important when it's combined with the output impedance of the amplifier. The higher the amp's output impedance, the more the peaks in the impedance will turn into EQ curves on the headphone's frequency response. Something with a low output impedance like the O2 will make so noticeable change to the HD600's FR. Something like a Bottlehead Crack with ~120 ohms of output impedance will give a few db of boot around 100Hz with the HD600.
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In a recent binge of buying PA gear to set up various studios, I find myself with surplus of amps. An old Yorkville, a Carver, and a Bryston 2B, 3B and 4B. Then just today I noticed a local guy selling a Behringer DCX2496 for $300 CAD.
So now my brain is having silly thoughts of picking up the DCX2496 and then somehow building a 3 way active system with the Brystons (because it's a matching set, sort of). Should I build something? If so, any directions you guys would recommend? Or sell it all and avoid temptation ::)
(was kinda thinking a CBT36k plus subs, but cheaper options would be nice)
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Merv probably has some ideas. He luvs dicking around with his Behringer.
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Looking for a second portable amp or amp/dac.
Given the long out of stock status of Leckerton and the historical low of Canadian dollar, I assume both Leck and Geek Out V2+ is out of my reach. How's pyrates' take on Piccolo amp and Oppo HA2?
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So in the intro thread I mentioned I like a brighter sound. I also game a lot (not so much multiplayer though). After reading many impressions, reviews, and measurements, I think I would like to base a system around the HE-560. The 560 is not set in stone, though. Here is my plan:
Source - Games and movies through SPDIF AND FLAC through USB into a DAC/Pre
Dac/Pre - Unknown...Bifrost?
Amp - Preordered Cavalli Liquid Carbon.
Total budget: under $2k
So, I think the HE-560 can be an all-rounder. I'm going to build some DIY cables to make the HE-560 balanced. Depending on the DAC, I might build those interconnects, too.
Suggestions? Only thing "purchased" is the Amp.
Also, the plan is for this to be near end-game for me. At least I sure hope it is near endgame. Shopping for cables was very very scary.
Thanks
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Xen: I have a 560 + Ember + Uberfrost setup, although I tend to use it for music, less for gaming. What kind of games do you play? I could run a few similar ones on my setup, if that'll help you have a better idea of what to expect. (Oh and my 560 uses stock cables)
To everyone else: how hifi is the music you listen to? I'm re-evaluating my setup in light of the fact that I'm content with 16/44.1, and may just want to stay with a HD600. Is upgrading my DAC or amp pointless?
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Xen: I have a 560 + Ember + Uberfrost setup, although I tend to use it for music, less for gaming. What kind of games do you play? I could run a few similar ones on my setup, if that'll help you have a better idea of what to expect. (Oh and my 560 uses stock cables)
GTA, Far Cry 3, Saints Row 4, Skyrim, The Witcher, XCom: Enemy Unknown, Borderlands 2, etc. Yeah, a wide variety of single player. How do find the UberFrost? I keep seeing <redacted> and <redacted>^2 so I'm guessing Schiit has 2 DACs coming on August 15th.
To everyone else: how hifi is the music you listen to? I'm re-evaluating my setup in light of the fact that I'm content with 16/44.1, and may just want to stay with a HD600. Is upgrading my DAC or amp pointless?
I would suggest buying a track you know well in a higher resolution digital format and seeing if it makes a difference. My suggestion would be to try a modern track as sound quality begins with the original recording and mastering. Old stuff is probably not going to sound better unless they do some reprocessing on the mastering side, which is my fear even for stuff from the 80's. Unfortunately, I am quite incredulous about remastering of pieces older then the 1960s as the original recording equipment would have been shit compared to today. Film was pretty advanced and had very high resolution, especially at 70mm so the visual remastering is stunning because the information was already there. I do not think audio was anywhere close and so *magic* is probably being used to "create" the missing bits of information.
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Ok I tried out Witcher and Borderlands 2 (but new games, because I don't/haven't touched either for a while). Separation is really good, so individual sfx and instruments on bgm are easy to make out. I'm not sure about space and directionality--seems decent, but I'm quite crap at hearing this sort of thing.
Bass is great. Explosions, low hum, etc. are all well represented.
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Ok I tried out Witcher and Borderlands 2 (but new games, because I don't/haven't touched either for a while). Separation is really good, so individual sfx and instruments on bgm are easy to make out. I'm not sure about space and directionality--seems decent, but I'm quite crap at hearing this sort of thing.
Bass is great. Explosions, low hum, etc. are all well represented.
Thanks for testing them out in a gaming for me! Sounds very promising to me and its not usually mentioned in impressions/reviews/etc. Unless there is some major short coming that pops up, I going to go with the HE560s.
Have you ever had the static discharge problem with the HE560's? Seems to affect a small number of people.
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Nope, this is the first time I'm even hearing about such a problem.
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MDR-z7 for $390. Worth it? But an HD-650 instead?
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MDR-z7 for $390. Worth it? But an HD-650 instead?
What is the condition of the Sony? Sony and spare parts are sometimes a serious issue. One reason I avoid Sony in particular.
The HD650 is the HD650 and Sennheiser still supplies parts.
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Which headphone would you recommend for modern music, especially hiphop, electronic, pop? (Audeze is too heavy unfortunately)
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EDIT - quoted wrong post
"What is the condition of the Sony? Sony and spare parts are sometimes a serious issue. One reason I avoid Sony in particular."
Appears to be in great condition but it IS one of the Japanese versions from ebay. I got a strange vibe from the seller so think I'm going to pass.
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Go with your intuition. Sometimes I see great deals for the money but the seller presents the item in such a way that I walk away. Presentation and the right information make a big difference for me.
The higher the expense for me, the better the presentation and information have to be.
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So I'm in Japan for the foreseeable future and the two options I'm considering are the HD 650 and the Stax 2170 combo, which are both pretty much the same price (~400 USD).
This will be my first real headphone purchase and I plan to build an end-game system around whichever I choose in the long-term. I'm aware that both have mods that are noted to make notable improvements. Can anyone provide any additional insights?
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I'm considering getting the UERM due to the recent drop on MD. However the Noble 4C also interests me due to its neutral signature and presence on the leaderboard. I would really appreciate some advice on which to pick. Which one is more detailed, neutral, and better for everday listening? Which scales up more? I listen to mostly non-vocal jazz and other acoustic music as well as some pop/new wave/post punk. I've read tomscy2000's excellent comparison of these 2 products and I'm slightly concerned if the UERM might be too fatiguing for everyday listening though it seems like UERM performs a bit better in technical ability.
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Am interested in the UERM on MD also, but likely will wait for RMAF
as their digital ear scan is of great importance for a quality fit of these.
Please chime in if anyone found the digital scans not worth it.
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Am interested in the UERM on MD also, but likely will wait for RMAF
as their digital ear scan is of great importance for a quality fit of these.
Please chime in if anyone found the digital scans not worth it.
You can't beat digital scans for consistency. However, a premo audiologist who does these everday and knows their shit will do better. I personally like my shells to fit a little snugger than the scans allow. They aren't loose at all, I just like a slight more bit of pressure which an audiologist can do.
However, most audiologists don't due these regularly and have very little idea or care as to how to do impressions properly for CIEMs. Unless you have access to a reputable audiologist who caters to musicians and professional bands frequently, I'd go digital all the way. I'm going to guess digital scans will be best for about 95% of the people out there based on that criteria. I've been fortunate to have my non-digital scans done by the head audiologists for UE and Westone. They rock!
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Looking for some small barrel/bullet-like IEMs, preferable dynamic. Any other quality options i should look into, besides Zero Audio Carbo Tenore and Aurisonics Rockets?
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Looking for some small barrel/bullet-like IEMs, preferable dynamic. Any other quality options i should look into, besides Zero Audio Carbo Tenore and Aurisonics Rockets?
etymotic mk5 is pretty solid. dynamic, $50-60 depending on sales, thin enough barrel to allow deep insertion. I picked them up on recommendation of tomscy when I was looking for an inexpensive, isolating iem for exercise and yardwork. I have liked them a lot.
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etymotic mk5 is pretty solid. dynamic, $50-60 depending on sales, thin enough barrel to allow deep insertion. I picked them up on recommendation of tomscy when I was looking for an inexpensive, isolating iem for exercise and yardwork. I have liked them a lot.
I hope they don't sound like the compressed, boring and lifeless MC5.
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well... not as compressed, boring and lifeless...
They are closer to the er4 sound, which is not exactly expansive. But in full disclosure, it made me re-re-purchase the er4, and I now mow the lawn in those :)p17
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...it made me re-re-purchase the er4, and I now mow the lawn in those :)p17
One of my summer jobs was grounds and maintenance (mowing the massive lawns mostly) at the Ben & Jerry's factory in VT. I convinced the safety guy that the ER4s was adequate hearing protection. I'd walk around all day with a Bithead and my Etys and then eat an entire pint of ice cream. Good times.
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"If it's not fun, why do it!?"
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Howdy! Kicking the tires and considering getting a tube amp to pair with the Fostex TH-600, Sennheiser HD650, and/or the JVC HP-DX1000 (I'm probably selling these, so I care more about the Fostex and Sennheiser). I'm trying to keep it under $500 if possible.
The frontrunners from what I've seen would probably be the Project Ember II and Lyr 2, but you guys know better than I do. Also, what's the opinion here on the ALO Pan Am, both as a DAC and Amp? I might be able to get into a used one of those for close to my price point (particularly if I sell one of my headphones).
I'm a bit of a basshead. My main criticism of my Fostex cans is the ~5500Hz peak that I would love to clean up a bit with tubes if possible.
I'd also be interested in looking at better DACs if there's anything similarly affordable other than the ODAC revB that I have. I've tried the Meridian Explorer 2 and didn't terribly like it as well as the Dragonfly 1.2 and Sound Blaster E5.
Use for both will be desktop.
Thanks!
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(wish I knew enough tube amps to answer Luckbad's question).
So, what's everyone's go to source for finding what's the best version of a recording? I've discovered Paul Simon's Graceland 1986 CD version and it's amazing and better in every way than the one found on a streaming service. (Thanks LFF. What an amazing record)
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(wish I knew enough tube amps to answer Luckbad's question).
So, what's everyone's go to source for finding what's the best version of a recording? I've discovered Paul Simon's Graceland 1986 CD version and it's amazing and better in every way than the one found on a streaming service. (Thanks LFF. What an amazing record)
Personally, I use a combination of the Dynamic Range Database and Steve Hoffman forums. Both linked on the front page.
If anyone else has more than that, chime in! I'd personally like more tools than just these two and my ears.
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Personally, I use a combination of the Dynamic Range Database and Steve Hoffman forums. Both linked on the front page.
If anyone else has more than that, chime in! I'd personally like more tools than just these two and my ears.
This is exactly what I've been doing for years.
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I'm considering getting the UERM due to the recent drop on MD. However the Noble 4C also interests me due to its neutral signature and presence on the leaderboard. I would really appreciate some advice on which to pick. Which one is more detailed, neutral, and better for everday listening? Which scales up more? I listen to mostly non-vocal jazz and other acoustic music as well as some pop/new wave/post punk. I've read tomscy2000's excellent comparison of these 2 products and I'm slightly concerned if the UERM might be too fatiguing for everyday listening though it seems like UERM performs a bit better in technical ability.
Chickened out of that UERM drop and bought the Noble 4S instead...
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(wish I knew enough tube amps to answer Luckbad's question).
My real question, I think, is: What's a good tube amp for ~$500 or less that can handle lower impedances? The best I've been able to find from elsewhere are the Lyr 2, Project Ember II, Woo Audio WA6, and Alo Pan Am (used).
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I'd vote Lyr 2.
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Has anyone made any comparo's between the Wyrd v Aqvox v EA Short Block? Been using the Aqvox for a few years now, but wondering if there's anything out there I'm missing.
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Whats the deal with changstar and Audeze? Most praise Audeze like crazy, but here it seems like its kinda disliked? Hifiman seems to be more the thing?
1 thing I found can be difficult with hifi is to realize the difference in sonic performance with low, mid and high-end gear. How much difference it is in particular. Especially when you just read reviews.
It can seem like 1 headphone is so insanly superior to something else, yet its only like.. 5% better? :D
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Whats the deal with changstar and Audeze? Most praise Audeze like crazy, but here it seems like its kinda disliked? Hifiman seems to be more the thing?
(Full disclosure: I own a pair of LCD-3F manufactured Nov 2014 which work fine and sound pretty good to me)
I feel the perception is that Audeze has QC (LCD-3) and product consistency issues which make them harder to recommend given their premium price point.
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I belive my LCD-3Fs are manufactured in february 2015.
Or how did you find out? On the frequency graph?
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Audeze headphones can sound great. In fact, some of the best headphones heard here were the Audeze LCD-2 (prefazor) and the LCD-3 (prefazor). Unfortunately, there has only been one LCD-2 that's sounded amazing and the LCD-3 blew up in less than 24 hours. The -X -XC EL8 all have weird sound signatures which make them not terribly liked, on top of not being very resolving.
The LCD-3F I heard was veiled and sounded worse than my LCD-2 even though I could tell it had potential for more detail. So in general, poor production quality means you're spending a lot of money on a dud.
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LCD-3(non F) make for one of the best chill-out headphones I've owned. They're not especially great at anything, but neither will you be distracted by anything awful. So, you plop em on and forget yourself for a while with familiar recordings. When you feel like discovering something new, or find an album recorded especially well, you hang the LCD's on your stand and the HD800's on your head.
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quick question... I totally didn't realize that the "applaud" and "no touchy" links were some sort of karma rating on this website & I am afraid I may have spammed out random ratings without knowing it. thought they were a link somewhere & have been clicking on them multiple times trying to access the content. =S
any way to just undo that? hahah
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quick question... I totally didn't realize that the "applaud" and "no touchy" links were some sort of karma rating on this website & I am afraid I may have spammed out random ratings without knowing it. thought they were a link somewhere & have been clicking on them multiple times trying to access the content. =S
any way to just undo that? hahah
The karma system/brownie points here doesn't really mean anything.
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I got HE-6 today, and I can see why the "hate" on Audeze.
There's literally no point in getting LCD-3F unless ur mad.
Now I just have to find an amp with my 2.5k budget...
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I got HE-6 today, and I can see why the "hate" on Audeze.
There's literally no point in getting LCD-3F unless ur mad.
Now I just have to find an amp with my 2.5k budget...
I've really enjoyed the Ragnarok as my HE-6 amp, but admittedly, I've not compared it against speaker amps or a Krell. The Rag definitely has enough power. The Mjolnir 2 might also be a good "cheap" option as well.
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I have also the Rag with the HE-6, and same as DrFindley I like it but have nothing to compare it against. But some Southerners have been tempting me to the dark side of 150 lb power amps... not sure what to do.
Other HE-6 owners here could probably advise on some cheap eBay power amps that would do a good job of powering the HE-6, hopefully they will chime in.
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But some Southerners have been tempting me to the dark side of 150 lb power amps... not sure what to do.
Southern as in Southern Chinese! Hahaha.
Listen to theirs first...
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Looking for a DAC to replace my Yulong DA8.
Preferably priced under $500 and will be used into a Questyle CMA 800R with HD 800.
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Sell Questyle for $1500. Buy black widow. Save and buy a MB gungnir. Mod the HD800. Log off the internet and enjoy your music.
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Has anyone tried used the XLR pre-out of the new Mjolnir2? Was wondering if it performs decently for its price as a balanced tube preamp. popcorn
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Sell Questyle for $1500. Buy black widow. Save and buy a MB gungnir. Mod the HD800. Log off the internet and enjoy your music.
I'm assuming upgrade the amp first before upgrading the DAC if I could only upgrade one at a time with a few months inbetween?
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Sell Questyle for $1500. Buy black widow. Save and buy a MB gungnir. Mod the HD800. Log off the internet and enjoy your music.
Screw it man...Get a loan...get the Yggy and the ZDS (i'll spare you the Studio....). Mod the HD 800....and enjaaai (as we Tamilians say)....
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I have also the Rag with the HE-6, and same as DrFindley I like it but have nothing to compare it against. But some Southerners have been tempting me to the dark side of 150 lb power amps... not sure what to do.
Other HE-6 owners here could probably advise on some cheap eBay power amps that would do a good job of powering the HE-6, hopefully they will chime in.
The rag is really tempting cause its so convinient. Then I wouldent have to buy new amplifier whenever I decide to upgrade. Or if I wanna get multiple phones. But yeah... It seems like stereoamp is the way to go if u really want the most out of them.
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Screw it man...Get a loan...get the Yggy and the ZDS (i'll spare you the Studio....). Mod the HD 800....and enjaaai (as we Tamilians say)....
I don't think taking a loan as a college student is very responsible :P
I do want the Yggy though :(, but I might have to settle for a Multibit Gungnir. The Ragnarok and Black Widow are in reach but I'm not too sure on how to obtain a Black Widow.
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I was kidding of course....on the BW, can you not just order from Eddie Current's website? Or PM Marv.
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I don't think the 2nd BW run has begun yet.
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Looking to hear impressions of the Bose QC25 noise cancelling headphones. I've been using the QC15's for travelling, just wondering if anyone has any impressions on the new ones. Thanks in advance!
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Any suggestions for a non-schiit amp?
- Main job will be for HD650, HE400S, TH900. Preferably with UERM. In the future, maybe also with W1000x
- Budget under 400 CAD (1USD~=1.35CAD these days)
- Preferably tube
- Small footprint is a plus
- Preferably amp only
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Any suggestions for a non-schiit amp?
- Main job will be for HD650, HE400S, TH900. Preferably with UERM. In the future, maybe also with W1000x
- Budget under 400 CAD (1USD~=1.35CAD these days)
- Preferably tube
- Small footprint is a plus
- Preferably amp only
Did you check out Garage1217? Solderdude can help you with this directly.
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Did you check out Garage1217? Solderdude can help you with this directly.
Thank you DF, I'll PM Solderdude for help.
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Do any of you more experienced pyrates find yourselves so comfortable with a pair of headphones that nothing else sounds right anymore? I re-ordered the Etymotic HF2s and they just seem...off. However, I was using the KSC75s in their absence without a problem. I'm trying to figure out if I was romanticizing them in the months that I went without them (and therefore had my expectations way too high), or if the HD600s have spoiled me.
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yes
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The KSC75 sounds totally believable to me.
Only when compared directly to 'better' headphones you can hear it's flaws.
Funny thing about using 1 headphone almost exclusively is that you get so used to the sound (your brain turns it into a reference) that other headphones can sound off.
Remedy (and for me a must when comparing) is 'reset' your brain by NOT comparing 2 headphones but use at least 3 or 4 and listen to them relatively shortly and roll to the other.
It also helps to have a 'tonal reference' headphone like the HD600 or DT250-250 to get your feet back on the ground as it were.
In the end... all that matters is that you like the headphone of your choice and can enjoy music on them.... regardless of their sonic signature/colour.
They heave to be comfortable as well.
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Funny thing about using 1 headphone almost exclusively is that you get so used to the sound (your brain turns it into a reference) that other headphones can sound off.
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Thus, the HD600 sounded odd to me :-[ for quite some time before I started to enjoy it, and it became my standard.
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It is indeed startling sometimes to go quickly from one HP to another in a short time. Happened today when I was using the HD 800 for a couple of hours and did not like the source recording of DP (Deep Purple for you Anax :) ). Switched to the Slants and the smaller soundstage and lesser detail was welcome initially. Turned to the HD 650 and that turned out to be the sweet spot.
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It is indeed startling sometimes to go quickly from one HP to another in a short time. Happened today when I was using the HD 800 for a couple of hours and did not like the source recording of DP (Deep Purple for you Anax :) ). Switched to the Slants and the smaller soundstage and lesser detail was welcome initially. Turned to the HD 650 and that turned out to be the sweet spot.
Deep Purple was the kind of band to really experiment with its sound crossing over from mono to stereo and beyond. Some Deep Purple mark II albums in particular will have peculiar "sound experiences." Add the legendary Jon Lord and prepare for a bit of madness.
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dumb follow-up on my amp/DAC HE560 adventures...
decided to get a vintage R2R DAC, assemblage one.
will make it work with USB, friend helping out with that.
heard the Lyr2 and HE560 today, not too impressed. a tad wooly bass and ever so slightly congested.
I feel that I can get something better for the price of $600 Canadians or whatever it was. :|
afraid most (cheaper?) toob amps just aren't cutting it for me...
I assume the SS-tubes would help but that's more money there as well.
OG Mojo is on sale for $650 + 14% tax, a bit much still and with the mojo 2 out now?
not sure where to go from here.
Ember 2 any better in bass than the Lyr 2?
any more DIY kits worth looking up - that you have experience with?
too picky for my budget I am sure. $700 CAD is as much as I can justify ATM.
thanks!
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dumb follow-up on my amp/DAC HE560 adventures...
decided to get a vintage R2R DAC, assemblage one.
will make it work with USB, friend helping out with that.
Ember 2 any better in bass than the Lyr 2?
any more DIY kits worth looking up - that you have experience with?
too picky for my budget I am sure. $700 CAD is as much as I can justify ATM.
thanks!
Assemblage DAC-1 is a great choice. (And $199 on Canuck Audio Mart too if that's the one you're - killer deal, that's like $150 US. If you haven't pulled the trigger already, and that's the one you're considering, buy it fast because it won't last up there.) If your friend doesn't have any tech magic in mind, you'll need a USB-to-SPDIF converter to make that usable. Budget recommendations for that are the Gustard U12 (great for the money), Melodious MX-U8, and any of the Jkenny SPDIF converters that you can find used.
The Ember II can come pre-assembled so that you don't have to worry about kits. With the Amperex & Telefunken tubes that I used, congestion and wooly bass certainly wasn't an issue. (Though, I wouldn't have thought it would have been an issue with the Lyr2 either. Hrm.) The stock tube on the Ember sucks, so if you're budgeting set aside another 40 CAD for a replacement tube.
I'd be interested in how much a Liquid Carbon costs to import to Canada. At 700 CAD (530 USD) you're getting really close to the $599 price point of the Cavalli. If the import taxes, VAT, customs etc. aren't too expensive I'd probably try to stretch the budget a bit further and pick up one of those.
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dumb follow-up on my amp/DAC HE560 adventures...
decided to get a vintage R2R DAC, assemblage one.
will make it work with USB, friend helping out with that.
heard the Lyr2 and HE560 today, not too impressed. a tad wooly bass and ever so slightly congested.
I feel that I can get something better for the price of $600 Canadians or whatever it was. :|
afraid most (cheaper?) toob amps just aren't cutting it for me...
I assume the SS-tubes would help but that's more money there as well.
OG Mojo is on sale for $650 + 14% tax, a bit much still and with the mojo 2 out now?
not sure where to go from here.
Ember 2 any better in bass than the Lyr 2?
any more DIY kits worth looking up - that you have experience with?
too picky for my budget I am sure. $700 CAD is as much as I can justify ATM.
thanks!
If you're in the Vancouver area you could always check out the importer of the Elekit TU-8200... He's a really nice guy, and would let you come over to listen before you buy. But then again the cost will rise quickly once you start rolling tubes...I know, I have more than the amps worth in preamp and power tubes, not to mention a trio of tube testers...lol
I had a great time building the kit. It took me 8 hours, and had excellent instructions.
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I have to run 2 different usb sound outputs from my PC to 3 different amps. Any ideas on switches that would help me from switching cables around? I'd like to keep it to around $100, but will consider suggestions for higher amounts.
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Assemblage DAC-1 is a great choice. (And $199 on Canuck Audio Mart too if that's the one you're - killer deal, that's like $150 US. If you haven't pulled the trigger already, and that's the one you're considering, buy it fast because it won't last up there.) If your friend doesn't have any tech magic in mind, you'll need a USB-to-SPDIF converter to make that usable. Budget recommendations for that are the Gustard U12 (great for the money), Melodious MX-U8, and any of the Jkenny SPDIF converters that you can find used.
The Ember II can come pre-assembled so that you don't have to worry about kits. With the Amperex & Telefunken tubes that I used, congestion and wooly bass certainly wasn't an issue. (Though, I wouldn't have thought it would have been an issue with the Lyr2 either. Hrm.) The stock tube on the Ember sucks, so if you're budgeting set aside another 40 CAD for a replacement tube.
I'd be interested in how much a Liquid Carbon costs to import to Canada. At 700 CAD (530 USD) you're getting really close to the $599 price point of the Cavalli. If the import taxes, VAT, customs etc. aren't too expensive I'd probably try to stretch the budget a bit further and pick up one of those.
haha, yeah I saw that one. but my friend actually has one for sale, since he has the DAC-2 as well. I am buying his DAC-1.
we're working on some magic - will probably post about it here later, just in the planning stage atm ;)
the Lyr2 was completely stock but I really don't know... LCD-2 didn't sound as good either.
the DAC was an A&K AKJR - could that have been the issue?
really feel I need to hear the Ember 2 before deciding though... :)
would you advise against the Mojo BTW? I would be able to try it out myself in a while but nothing much to compare to except Taurus MK2 and Lyr2.... which actually would be pretty fair.
just felt the mojo was a little sharp in the upper freqs.
If you're in the Vancouver area you could always check out the importer of the Elekit TU-8200... He's a really nice guy, and would let you come over to listen before you buy. But then again the cost will rise quickly once you start rolling tubes...I know, I have more than the amps worth in preamp and power tubes, not to mention a trio of tube testers...lol
I had a great time building the kit. It took me 8 hours, and had excellent instructions.
ah cool - I live in downtown Vancouver, so that would be possible. :p
a little on the pricier side indeed. the stock tubes are decent though? I assume that's what I'd get to demo.
thank you!
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Hes
haha, yeah I saw that one. but my friend actually has one for sale, since he has the DAC-2 as well. I am buying his DAC-1.
we're working on some magic - will probably post about it here later, just in the planning stage atm ;)
the Lyr2 was completely stock but I really don't know... LCD-2 didn't sound as good either.
the DAC was an A&K AKJR - could that have been the issue?
really feel I need to hear the Ember 2 before deciding though... :)
would you advise against the Mojo BTW? I would be able to try it out myself in a while but nothing much to compare to except Taurus MK2 and Lyr2.... which actually would be pretty fair.
just felt the mojo was a little sharp in the upper freqs.
ah cool - I live in downtown Vancouver, so that would be possible. :p
a little on the pricier side indeed. the stock tubes are decent though? I assume that's what I'd get to demo.
thank you!
He's in Coquitlam just off Lougheed hwy. He has all kinds off tubes to try out.
The stock tubes are so-so, but for another $100. You could get GE 6L6GC's and Amperex/RCA cleartop 12AU7's and have quite the little hot rod setup. I use this amp for my headphones and to drive a set of Fostex 168eZ drivers in folded horn enclosure's.
This guy reviews and takes measurements that compare favorably to a few McIntosh tube amps (the Elekit does have considerably less power though)... http://www.kenrockwell.com/audio/elekit/tu-8200.htm
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well the DAC idea might not work too well - I think I might spring for a USB-SPDIF converter instead. :(
SMD and lots of modding required, not sure I can afford it, or the time for it.
is the U12 the best bang for the buck here? it sure fits the budget, and I have heard the Assemblage via SPDIF to Mobo and it sounded fantastic even then. so I can't imagine this being any worse... but I'm curious to hear more thoughts about it.
as for amp, still haven't gotten any further. though with the U12 and Assemblage coming out to about $450 CAD total, I can expand the amp budget just a little bit. around $600 USD or so should be OK.
unfortunately, LC will be way more to import - probably another $200 or so on top of that.
does look very nice though :| I've been looking a bit at DIY as well now, but I'm not sure what I'm even doing.
does anyone know any DIY builds that work well with HE-560? don't really want anything that needs a huge case though.
JK47: very cool - though it does seem to be a touch out of budget with tube upgrades especially. $725 USD is the asking price, I just noticed.
I might try that one if I can't decide on anything in my actual budget though - just not sure I'll prioritize it, for now. :)
thank you!
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I'm getting tired of lugging a CD player and discs to meets so I'm finally going to (slowly) move from CDs to, I presume, FLAC (?). Is Exact Audio Copy the way to go or something else? I'll be using an upgraded Lenovo Thinkpad from 2010, if it matters.
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hi uh so...
what's the current recommendation for portable use circumaural headphones with some bass/warmth but not dull? midrange forward would be sweet.
budget whatever but probably no more than $400. sold off some stuff and now I need new closed-back portables... :)
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Hmm momentum 2.0?
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I do think those are good, but the midrange seemed a little recessed to me? slight V-shape in the upper mids.
not sure if amping them will help since I only tried out of my phone (iphone 6) but I could try :)
thanks!
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For circumaural, read up on the Beyer DT150 and DT250. They have both been measured and discussed here. DT150 is ~$300, DT250 is ~$200. I think both are excellent value propositions if you want real closed headphones with decent resolution and neutrality (generally hard to do with true closed headphones). Both are pretty indestructible, which is nice for true portability. Both are true closed, which means little to no leakage, and excellent isolation. I prefer the 150, but many prefer the 250. If I am honest, the 250 looks less like a lego took a shit on your head.
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I'm lurking around building a measurements rig and i need some experienced advice for a soundcard.
- I'd appreciate it to be decent as a desktop dac/amp for my ZMF Vibro X ( power hungry bastard ) so a powerful amp would be truly appreciated. At least the soundcard should be a decent USB DAC on which I can plug a dedicated amp.
- Good for measurements
- Linux full compatibility.
- External / USB . I' use a laptop on its dockstation at home.
- Basic ( not zillions settings and features) , I look for good value.
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I'm getting tired of lugging a CD player and discs to meets so I'm finally going to (slowly) move from CDs to, I presume, FLAC (?). Is Exact Audio Copy the way to go or something else? I'll be using an upgraded Lenovo Thinkpad from 2010, if it matters.
EAC is good. Try out some software that is recommended and decide for yourself. The challenge is simple: which software does exactly what you want and works for you? Finding the settings and setting the process up make the difference.
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EAC, with correct drive offsets, secure mode, test and copy, and Accurate Rip.
There is a detailed step by step guide on a certain website. The public version of that guide is for a prior version of EAC and some things are different. I advise you follow this guide exactly to not screw up. Screwing up is annoying as drives can take up to an hour to read and check everything. I've had damaged and miniature CDs take all day.
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For circumaural, read up on the Beyer DT150 and DT250. They have both been measured and discussed here. DT150 is ~$300, DT250 is ~$200. I think both are excellent value propositions if you want real closed headphones with decent resolution and neutrality (generally hard to do with true closed headphones). Both are pretty indestructible, which is nice for true portability. Both are true closed, which means little to no leakage, and excellent isolation. I prefer the 150, but many prefer the 250. If I am honest, the 250 looks less like a lego took a shit on your head.
haha the 150 sure are ugly, unfortunately!
I tried the 250-80Ohm and I found the sound to be very uneven - channel imbalance mainly?
I would rather not deal with QC a la Beyer, seems like most people experienced this :(
and comfort was rather bad. curse my big ears.
AstralStorm recommended modded AKG K55x - considering those.
otherwise, Audio Technica ATH-M70X I quite like- just not sure if $349 good, yet. a touch bright...
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I'm getting tired of lugging a CD player and discs to meets so I'm finally going to (slowly) move from CDs to, I presume, FLAC (?). Is Exact Audio Copy the way to go or something else? I'll be using an upgraded Lenovo Thinkpad from 2010, if it matters.
If you're going to be ripping classical music I would suggest going with dBpoweramp. It costs $40 but well worth it. The first time you rip a box set of complete Bach organ works you will be "oh my god this is so worth the price". The alternative is to spend hours manually fixing tags and typing in track names.
The big advantage for dBpoweramp is metadata lookup. Tagging data. It gets classical metadata from AMG (AllMusic Guide), SonataDB (a dedicated classical music DB), and MusicBrainz. Then does an intelligent merging of all those sources to get you good tagging data. dBpoweramp uses AccurateRip (dBpoweramp developed AccurateRip) so you know the rips will be good and not full of glitches.
Second choice would be CUERipper which is a part of CUETools. It's free. A good ripper. Gets metadata from FreeDB, MusicBrainz, Discogs, and its own CTDB (CueTools DB). It verifies rips with AccurateRip and its own CTDB. It's a good ripper.
Third choice would be Exact Audio Copy. It's a PITA to set up. A PITA to get configured for good metadata lookup. It's possible to add the CTDB metadata lookup to it so it can get data from MusicBrainz and Discogs. It is able to verify rips with AccurateRip and also with CTDB if you add in the CTDB module. But in general, EAC sucks for ripping classical music. The people who use EAC a lot rip lots of rap, pop, and rock. They don't rip classical. If they did rip classical they'd switch to a different ripper.
Ripping should take a couple minutes per disc. Unfortunately many laptop drives are not good for ripping and will rip very slowly. If your laptop drive is slow you'll need to look at getting a USB CD drive that is good for ripping.
MusicBrainz is getting better classical metadata for more CDs. But at the same time has become annoying by standardizing on things like Cryllic names for Russian composers. Which means you'll need to manually correct those things. Which gets to be a PITA. dBpoweramp won't have those problems.
Rip to FLAC files. A file for each track. Don't rip to full disc CUE files that rip the disc to one large file.
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EAC is best. XLD is good for Mac. A couple of minutes per disc means your ripping in "burst mode" and can't be verified as accurate at all, ie the rip's bad.
CUERipper is not nearly as accurate as EAC. You can tell by what data it tracks in its logs. CUERipper can't determine correct drive offsets and always said "Copy Okay" even if there are many suspicious positions. Ripping with EAC takes a lot longer for a reason. The other programs rip in a few minutes as they are ripping "burst mode" where they just rip the disc and compare it to the online database. EAC can and should be set to rip in "secure mode" where it reads each sector at least once to check everything. It also has "Test and copy" where it reads, generates a CRC checksum, then rips and compares the two checksums.
Dbpoweramp always rips in bursts (multiple blocks at once) instead of block by block even in secure mode. This is why it "finishes" rips faster. It also doesn't handle gaps in cuesheets in the best way. It also costs money. Free and best vs inferior and costs money? Choose wisely.
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I'm lurking around building a measurements rig and i need some experienced advice for a soundcard.
- I'd appreciate it to be decent as a desktop dac/amp for my ZMF Vibro X ( power hungry bastard ) so a powerful amp would be truly appreciated. At least the soundcard should be a decent USB DAC on which I can plug a dedicated amp.
- Good for measurements
- Linux full compatibility.
- External / USB . I' use a laptop on its dockstation at home.
- Basic ( not zillions settings and features) , I look for good value.
Hit up Home Theater Shack and Computer Audiophile if you haven't.
This thread might be useful:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/spl-meters-mics-calibration-sound-cards/52505-rew-sound-card-database.html#/forumsite/20818/topics/52505
Are you meeting amps/dacs or headphones? If the former, my Sound Blaster ZxR with DBpro does all you need. If the latter, I'd consider grabbing a usb elecret mic from Dayton. I use their standard xlr mic with a Scarlett 2i4, but that version needs phantom power and the usb one doesn't.
Ultrabike or Marv could provide more experienced insight.
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I am thinking about getting an ultimate setup going and I'd really like to know people's opinion about this. Should I get a Mjolnir 2 + Gungnir Multibit or a Ragnarok + Gungnir Multibit? The yggdrasil is way too expensive for me so I figured I'd get the GMB but I don't really know about the amp.
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I am thinking about getting an ultimate setup going and I'd really like to know people's opinion about this. Should I get a Mjolnir 2 + Gungnir Multibit or a Ragnarok + Gungnir Multibit? The yggdrasil is way too expensive for me so I figured I'd get the GMB but I don't really know about the amp.
Need to know which headphones you are driving.
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Anyone ever own or spend some time with the Beyer DT-150? The response curve reminds me a bit of the Sony 7520 only maybe a bit more linear. How did they sound to you?
Temped to try them now that the euro is so low.
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EAC is best. XLD is good for Mac. A couple of minutes per disc means your ripping in "burst mode" and can't be verified as accurate at all, ie the rip's bad.
A burst style rip that verifies with AccurateRip and/or CueToolsDB is just as accurate as a secure mode rip that also verifies with AccurateRip and/or CTDB. Just being secure mode doesn't make the bits in the ripped files any more perfect. A burst mode rip that verifies with AccurateRip and CTDB is absolutely a good rip.
Using secure mode to rip every CD you have is wasting time and inefficient. If you're only ripping one CD every couple of days it won't make a difference. But if you've got a stack of 50 CDs to rip, or a wall of 2000+ CDs to get through, then the difference in ripping time becomes significant.
On my drives a secure mode rip takes around 5 to 10 minutes and sometimes longer. With some drives a secure rip can take much longer. A burst rip is a couple minutes. As long as the burst rip verifies with AccurateRip or CTDB the rip is good.
A secure mode rip is useful when you have a used CD that is scratched. Or a brand new just released CD that isn't in AccurateRip or CTDB yet. Or an uncommon CD that isn't in AccurateRip or CTDB yet. Then rip it in secure mode just to be sure. And if you're paranoid rip it again with a different ripping program just to double check and verify that the AccurateRip and CTDB checks are the same (they very likely will be).
CUERipper is a good enough ripper. It also has an advantage in being the easiest of the three rippers I mentioned to get set up and to configure.
CUETools and CUERipper download: http://www.cuetools.net/wiki/CUETools_Download
There is no installer. Unzip the archive and then run the EXE.
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A burst style rip that verifies with AccurateRip and/or CueToolsDB is just as accurate as a secure mode rip that also verifies with AccurateRip and/or CTDB. Just being secure mode doesn't make the bits in the ripped files any more perfect. A burst mode rip that verifies with AccurateRip and CTDB is absolutely a good rip.
Using secure mode to rip every CD you have is wasting time and inefficient. If you're only ripping one CD every couple of days it won't make a difference. But if you've got a stack of 50 CDs to rip, or a wall of 2000+ CDs to get through, then the difference in ripping time becomes significant.
On my drives a secure mode rip takes around 5 to 10 minutes and sometimes longer. With some drives a secure rip can take much longer. A burst rip is a couple minutes. As long as the burst rip verifies with AccurateRip or CTDB the rip is good.
A secure mode rip is useful when you have a used CD that is scratched. Or a brand new just released CD that isn't in AccurateRip or CTDB yet. Or an uncommon CD that isn't in AccurateRip or CTDB yet. Then rip it in secure mode just to be sure. And if you're paranoid rip it again with a different ripping program just to double check and verify that the AccurateRip and CTDB checks are the same (they very likely will be).
CUERipper is a good enough ripper. It also has an advantage in being the easiest of the three rippers I mentioned to get set up and to configure.
CUETools and CUERipper download: http://www.cuetools.net/wiki/CUETools_Download
There is no installer. Unzip the archive and then run the EXE.
EAC is the easiest ripper to use as it is the most secure and the file sharing standard. This means that it has idiot proof step by step guides and online log checkers.
Secure mode is not that much faster than burst mode. Good drives are cheap. Get better ones. Yes multiples ones for multiple cores. You'd also be surprised at the amount of discs not in accurate rip or with only 1 checksum made by some guy with burst mode or incorrect drive offsets. Usually Russian too. Russians love to rip stuff with bad settings but scan all the artwork in with commercial scanners so you might want to get the artwork online and then stick it in your rip folder.
Burst is actually better than Secure for making usable but imperfect rips of damaged discs quickly. I advocate secure for everything but damaged discs that are taking a while and then doing burst if you need a rip right away and a secure rip later. No scratches or wear doesn't mean the disc is good. I've had too many new CDs that look perfect take hours to rip in secure mode with burst mode rips of them being screwed up.
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No scratches or wear doesn't mean the disc is good. I've had too many new CDs that look perfect take hours to rip in secure mode with burst mode rips of them being screwed up.
More than likely clean looking cds that take more than 5-10 minutes can indicate your drive is dying. Happened to me and then the same disks ripped timely and perfectly with a new drive.
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I need advice about hifiman he-300. What the optimal source pairing for them? i have read some mix opinions about it. By optimal i mean that it justifies buying the cans in first place.
Its something like fiio e10k enough or even motherboard output?
I am looking for gift for cousin and i can get them for 100$.
Thank you
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Yeah, just get Fiio e10k or something that like. Honestly, you might be better off getting one of the ~$100 headphones in the cheap headphone comparo: http://www.changstar.com/index.php/topic,2013.msg54989.html#msg54989
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Huh, are he-300 really that bad? It needs to be and open headphone so 558 comes to mind, but they have to be casual listener friendly with a little "oomph fun", so he-300 seemed like a good option.
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Huh, are he-300 really that bad? It needs to be and open headphone so 558 comes to mind, but they have to be casual listener friendly with a little "oomph fun", so he-300 seemed like a good option.
Philips X1/2? Works from a DAP and might not have the midrange richness of a HD558/598 but still pretty decent. Try them first though.
For a steal you can get a HD595 in good condition, equalise it when used in a PC/tablet/phone/DAP-set up and done. The mid-fi market is so saturated you can get great gear for little money.
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I read on reddit about the hifiman he6. Does it do anything special that other headphones can't? I have an lcd2 with fazors and a lyr 2.
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Philips X1/2? Works from a DAP and might not have the midrange richness of a HD558/598 but still pretty decent. Try them first though.
For a steal you can get a HD595 in good condition, equalise it when used in a PC/tablet/phone/DAP-set up and done. The mid-fi market is so saturated you can get great gear for little money.
Thank you, but these had to be +- 120$ cans, i think ill reconsider the hd 558.
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I read on reddit about the hifiman he6. Does it do anything special that other headphones can't? I have an lcd2 with fazors and a lyr 2.
they're better than the LCD2F imo, even better than the hd800, they seem to be the most realistic cans out there other than the stax sr009
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Hey folks!
Does anybody has an expirience with Monoprice 8323?
Do they sound more flat or more V shaped? How they sound compared (freq. response and details wise) to Koss KSC75 or Superlux HD668B?
Also, JVS HA-S150 Flats or Monoprice 8323 for that price?
Cheers!
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Hi all,
I'm searching an amp to drive my srh940 & HD650 (& whatever I'll buy in the future) in the 300÷400€ price range.
Here's some info:
I listen to everything (except classical for now) (http://www.last.fm/user/merc0ledi)
I don't listen at very loud volume
I'm very annoyed by sibilance
my current setup is: laptop/cambridge 640c -> Modi 2U -> Magni 2U
I don't hear differences between Bifrost 2U and Modi 2U, so I use the latter only for convenience
I had a Lyr, but I didn't liked it so much to keep it (surely it was better than the m2u, but also more than 2X the price)
Last but not least, I prefer to buy in the EU to avoid customs (I'm from Italy).
Thanks
Lorenzo
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http://www.meier-audio.homepage.t-online.de/amplifiers.htm (http://www.meier-audio.homepage.t-online.de/amplifiers.htm)
(If you're annoyed by sibilance, how can you stand SRH940?)
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http://www.meier-audio.homepage.t-online.de/amplifiers.htm (http://www.meier-audio.homepage.t-online.de/amplifiers.htm)
(If you're annoyed by sibilance, how can you stand SRH940?)
Thank you, I'll give a look.
I use the shure mainly for electronic music, and it's awesome for it e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ko5oojdDe3c (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ko5oojdDe3c).
Tight bass and plenty of detail :)
L.
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To any user of Audirvana+ on the Mac, a query: if the volume is muted on the Sound preferences in Preferences (for whatever reason), does this mean no input into the DAC from the Mac?
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So I have a friend who's looking for a bassy headphone to complement his HD800 (modded) setup. He uses a Lampizator lite 7 (USB, Sophia Electrics tubes) and an EC 2A3 MK IV. He is looking for something that almost has the clarity and treble sparkle of the hd800s but with a fuller, more impactful bass. IIRC, he has tried the following headphones and here are his thoughts:
Paradox Slants - Nice bass, but not detailed enough or open sounding. He used them with a first watt F1J and AMR-DP777 as dac/pre
HD650 - My personal pair, modded with rear foam removal and coin mod. While he does like the increased bass quantity over the hd800s, he finds that they lack the treble sparkle and excitement that the hd800s brings.
HE-6 - Used to be his main headphones until he switched to the hd800. Prefers the hd800s overall now, with his current setup. I don't believe the he-6's bass is what he's quite looking for.
HE-1000 - He was part of the beta program I believe, and he still preferred the hd800s and he-6 over it. However, we both tried the pre-production unit during Fang's visit to NYC and we both thought that version was better.
Sony MDR-1R - Good bass quantity but not hifi sounding.
LCD-2 - Not sure which version, but this pair was his friend's from about 3 years ago. He said it had really good bass and wasn't veiled. Maybe his friend got lucky with his pair.
LCD-3 - He has tried them before and found them to be too rolled off.
LCD-X - He has had these before and ended up selling them in favor of the HE-6.
LCD-XC - Tried them yesterday out of the McIntosh MHA-100. Said that they sounded really good in the bass region and didn't find them lacking in detail. He didn't complain of any midrange dip or treble weirdness. If my previous impressions of McIntosh are correct, maybe the dac/amp was covering up some of that treble weirdness.
McIntosh MHP-1000 - He said they sounded good, with more bass quantity than the hd800s but somewhat close to the clarity he was getting with the hd800s. I'm kind of skeptical... but I'll have to reserve my judgment for now.
I think he's leaning towards getting a pair of LCD-2s but he's currently doing some more research. I'm just worried that he'll probably get unlucky with his pair.
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Modded Abyss perhaps.
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Anax, have you heard an original Headamp BH? I cannot find any info on how it compares with the subsequent KG designs (KGST, KGSSHV, KGDT, etc...). I'm torn on an upgrade path from a KGSS. Short of a BHSE (which may not even cut it), is there an amp that plays nice with an assortment of estats? Hard enough to find something that gels with both 007/009, but throw in an HE60 and SR-Ω and it becomes even more difficult. I can scoop up an original BH with a shit-ton of blackgates (prices are silly for these near extinct caps) for about 3k. Have no way to determine if that sounds right in light of the 300 KG variations that continue to propagate at alarming rates.
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Gunner, how about the Paradox Enigma or even the good old HE 400?
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Modded Abyss perhaps.
Unfortunately... out of his price range.
Gunner, how about the Paradox Enigma or even the good old HE 400?
Ahh yeah, I used to have an Enigma a while back. I think we tried them with the same AMR DP-777 + First Watt F1J combo too. I even lent it to him for a week or so, but I guess they weren't to his liking. I'll suggest the he-400 to him though.
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bassy
As a sucker of TH900 I recommend TH900.
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Anax, have you heard an original Headamp BH? I cannot find any info on how it compares with the subsequent KG designs (KGST, KGSSHV, KGDT, etc...). I'm torn on an upgrade path from a KGSS. Short of a BHSE (which may not even cut it), is there an amp that plays nice with an assortment of estats? Hard enough to find something that gels with both 007/009, but throw in an HE60 and SR-Ω and it becomes even more difficult. I can scoop up an original BH with a shit-ton of blackgates (prices are silly for these near extinct caps) for about 3k. Have no way to determine if that sounds right in light of the 300 KG variations that continue to propagate at alarming rates.
Milos can correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe his was the first BH I heard and is was not an 'SE'. I haven't heard the ST or DT but the BH was never really that involving or engaging to me personally. The DIY T2 was much better, but still marginally so by comparison. Marvey says the ST is more along the lines of something we would both enjoy more than the KGSSs or BHs. To me, the best stat amp I've heard to date was the pre-nerfed Electra. I suppose it depends on what you are looking to get out of your stats.
I would say if you can pick up and not lose money if you decide not to move it, give the BH for $3K a shot. In general, the BH builds have done better with the 007/009 both. The KGSS at Tylls place was quite horrid with the 009. That was actually the worst I've ever heard that phone I can recall. However, the extreme thin and analytical nature of it seemed to pair well with the 007 and other subjective impressions seemed to confirm that.
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To me, the best stat amp I've heard to date was the pre-nerfed Electra.
What happened there? I remember I was on the precipice of ordering an Electra and then suddenly all talk of the amp fell off. Did Craig accomplish what he wanted with it or was it the end of the road for EC estat entanglement? It's a little disappointing tbh. There haven't been many constants in this hobby, save for one. The Eddie Current house sound has always been a beacon of sorts, particularly when you start to lose your way. A great deal of equipment has passed through my hands, but the ECBA & Zana have always stayed behind. Hell, the EC-SS was where I first splashed my feet.
The KGSS at Tylls place was quite horrid with the 009. That was actually the worst I've ever heard that phone I can recall. However, the extreme thin and analytical nature of it seemed to pair well with the 007 and other subjective impressions seemed to confirm that.
That seemed to be the one point of consensus at Tyll's place. The 009 sounded like shit. What in the world happened there? I thought the amp was "unobtainium", the bees-knees and all that...
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Anyone have any recommendations for hard exterior portable cases for the hd800s? I found some on Amazon but I didn't see any I thought would be big enough and also had foam inside.
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Anyone have any recommendations for hard exterior portable cases for the hd800s? I found some on Amazon but I didn't see any I thought would be big enough and also had foam inside.
search up Pelican cases on Amazon, nice quality and a ton of sizes with foam. The Nanuk cases are also very good
http://www.cmcgov.com/store/pc/NANUK-930-Professional-Protective-Case-Silver-with-Cubed-Foam-258p853.htm
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Anybody knows where I could have a Cmoy amp troubleshot in NYC? I bought one and I get funny noises on the left channel - wandering if I got some short to the case and picking up electromagnetic interference but can not figure out by myself.
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Did you build it or buy it built?
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Bought it built, but it's a headache to send it back. Postage will end up beeing almost as much as the amp. Think is probably just a bad contact.
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And you think the repair on it will be less than the postage?
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After I've sold my higher end stuff, paid rent, and recovered... I have a buddy who is willing to sell me either of these combos at a good price:
A) Audio-GD Reference 5 (old USB--I'd need to upgrade it) + Audio-GD ROC
B) Meieir Audio Daccord + ALO Amphora
C) Any combination of the above.
X) He also can sell me a Twisted Pear Opus Balanced/Single Ended DAC using Wolfson WM8740 chips with coax input only and a Red Wine Audio Transit, a battery operated USB/SPDIF converter.
The Daccord + Amphora combo would be about $100 more than the Audio-GD stack.
Anyone have any thoughts on the stacks or even the individual pieces?
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Don't buy anything, concentrate on rent and food!
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Don't buy anything, concentrate on rent and food!
You need help bruh.
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You need help bruh.
No kidding. He should be spending it on hookers and blow. Priorities!
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No kidding. He should be spending it on hookers and blow. Priorities!
Chang4LIFE!
(https://fareastfling.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/yakuza_tattoos.jpg)
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This is for AFTER rent is paid. My buddy is giving me a sweet deal on either.
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Hello pyrates. Was not sure where to post my question in "Speaker" without starting a new thread. Its regarding my 2 channel set up.
I have a pair of Emotiva's Stealth 6 powered monitors that seem to leave me with a "ringing" sensation in my LEFT pinna every time I listen to it. Sometimes it even lasts for a day. For instance, I was listening to them last night and this morning, my left pinna is warm to the touch with some red coloration suggesting inflammation. Now I should add that the only time I felt something similar was when I owned a pair of Beyer's DT880s (32 Ohm), although the Beyer's almost killed me by comparison. Initially I thought it was my room but the problem has persisted in our new place as well.
I listen to good and bad recordings with a redbook subscription to TiDAL and an Emotiva DC-1 DAC as source. Audio is sent to the DC-1 from my PC (via JRiver 21 and USB), or my smartphone (LG G3 via "headphone out"), or an iPad Air (Lightning CCK to USB). Analog audio from DC-1 to Stealth monitors is carried via 6-ft Mogami wires and Neutrik jacks made by Redco cables. The "ringing" sensation is felt across all these signal chains.
FWIW, when I listen to my headphones (HE-400i) or earphones (Sony XBA-H1/Ety HF5) via the DC-1, I cant recall feeling any ringing.
Is there something wrong with the (left) speaker or in my signal chain, or the DAC? I was reading on a couple of other forums that mentioned ribbon tweeters can be prone to ringing. Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Is there something wrong with the (left) speaker or in my signal chain
You may say, yeah, that's obvious, but it seems to have been forgotten by a lot of people: the answer to your question can be found by changing L/R, stage by stage, and seeing if the problem moves from one side to the other. Start by physically swapping the speakers, if you suspect them. When the problem moves, you found it. If it doesn't move then you probably have some room problem, reflection, resonance etc.
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....the answer to your question can be found by changing L/R, stage by stage, and seeing if the problem moves from one side to the other. Start by physically swapping the speakers, if you suspect them.
Much appreciated. thanks. Yes I should have mentioned that I did swapping the speakers L to R. Sorry. Speaker swapping did not do anything to reduce the ringing. Its still the left speaker (and my left ear).
When the problem moves, you found it. If it doesn't move then you probably have some room problem, reflection, resonance etc.
The problem seems to be independent of my room because I have tried them out in 3 different rooms so far and the ringing persists.....but always the left!
To answer my own question maybe but could it be something to do with the left channel on the DAC? If that is possible, maybe I could try sending audio over the DC-1's headphone out or the unbalanced RCA output. Any thoughts regarding if this is possible and which output would be better at nailing the cause? Can I measure this without destroying my ears?
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To answer my own question maybe but could it be something to do with the left channel on the DAC?
Swap Left/right from DAC to amp. If the problem goes away, you just have to listen to music upside down from now on...
...or find some way in the software to swap L/R channels* ;). On my system that would be trivial, because I use JACK, which is like having a patch panel on the screen. I have no idea about JRiver**.
* You probably want to do this anyway, unless you get a clear instant result.
** Linux, here.
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... JRiver**.
** Linux, here.
Just in case anyone cares, I think JRiver has a linux version. Just sayin'.
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Cheers. But I'm happy with DeadBeef.
I like my audio players simple :)p4
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I like my audio players simple
Yeah, I hear that. I like mine free, so I use MusicBee (*GASP*), and Foobar2000
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Cheers. But I'm happy with DeadBeef.
I like my audio players simple :)p4
Like Deadbeef, but couldn't handle my Linux implementation, use Decibel in my main Mac system, kicked JR, PM, Audirvana, etc.
Foobar on Win now replaces Deadbeef. I wish I were better with Linux :(
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Swap Left/right from DAC to amp. If the problem goes away, you just have to listen to music upside down from now on...
...or find some way in the software to swap L/R channels* ;). On my system that would be trivial, because I use JACK, which is like having a patch panel on the screen. I have no idea about JRiver**.
* You probably want to do this anyway, unless you get a clear instant result.
** Linux, here.
Makes sense. Duh! Cheers for this matey. I'll have a go at it tonight.
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Actually, permutations of L/R swap at different stages will put the violins back on the left. Have to admit that these simple exercises in logic do make my brain hurt. Which is why I started doing crosswords every day: time to stop the rot!
Yeah, I hear that. I like mine free, so I use MusicBee (*GASP*), and Foobar2000
Right. I like my audio players to be simple and free.
After a few years of Linux, I was taking free for granted. Although I'm not a complete cheapskate: I send the price of a beer, every month, to the guy who develops KXStudio.
For a long time, foobar2k remained the only thing I still missed from the MS environment.
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Yeah, I hear that. I like mine free, so I use MusicBee (*GASP*), and Foobar2000
I once tried MusicBee but fiddling with the settings made me remove it. It is pretty good actually but I did not like the settings.
Is the new MusicBee better? I detest the Windows Application as it is worse than WMP.
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Is the new MusicBee better?
I can't say whether the ui for settings has improved. But you can download the portable version, which doesn't modify anything on your system, to give it a try.
It supports wasapi, and the cd rip has good error checking options, rip to flac, etc.
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Anyone ever heard the Sony SRS x2 speakers? I've got a friend asking about them.
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Have anybody had expirience with JVC HA-S150/HA-S160 and what's the difference between these two? which one sounds more neutral?
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I can't say whether the ui for settings has improved. But you can download the portable version, which doesn't modify anything on your system, to give it a try.
It supports wasapi, and the cd rip has good error checking options, rip to flac, etc.
Thank you.
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Hey all,
First post here (I know I should have gone and introduce myself but I will or will walk the plank)
Recently repurchased the HD650 and was considering a few amp to pair it with a budget of say from anywhere to $700 if that allows me. I understand that the Valhalla 2 seems to be the most popular pairing but any other possible alternative such as audio-gd,etc?
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Hey all,
First post here (I know I should have gone and introduce myself but I will or will walk the plank)
Recently repurchased the HD650 and was considering a few amp to pair it with a budget of say from anywhere to $700 if that allows me. I understand that the Valhalla 2 seems to be the most popular pairing but any other possible alternative such as audio-gd,etc?
What dac do you have? Some people here prefer the Crack over the Valhalla 2, and you could get a Cavalli carbon with that budget as well.
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Some people here prefer the Crack over the Valhalla 2, and you could get a Cavalli carbon with that budget as well.
+1
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Currently using the matrix x-sabre if that helps.
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Currently using the matrix x-sabre if that helps.
Hmm... well I don't know your listening preferences and priorities since you're new here. But I think buying a valhalla 2 and putting the rest of the money towards a gumby would be a good plan, unless you have other headphones that you use. What qualities do you look for in your audio gear?
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Hmm... well I don't know your listening preferences and priorities since you're new here. But I think buying a valhalla 2 and putting the rest of the money towards a gumby would be a good plan, unless you have other headphones that you use. What qualities do you look for in your audio gear?
Well I had a variety of headphones in the past which I have sold them off (LCD2/3,HD800) in favor of my speaker setup to which I am still using today. But however recently there are times where I couldn't simply play my speakers loudly late at night and during the day, the loud construction beside my room doesn't help either for speakers.
Currently I'm just off with a single HD650 with no plans to get any other cans in the future. For me personally I don't mind either bright or dark sounding cans (hence why I had the LCD3 & HD800) previously but so long the mids is not recessed, I am content with it. Otherwise, most of my listening preferences can vary to a wide variety from classical to classic rock though I personally don't like modern hip-hop/rap genres, just isn't my thing.
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Crack it. Add a speedball.
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While you're speed balling the Crack, get the TS 5998 and Amperex tubes and you are truly set.
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Currently using the matrix x-sabre if that helps.
I have had 650s with the matrix and Lake People G-109s, good match. I have not paired the Matrix with the Lyr2, but other cans have sounded really nice with the Lyr2.
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Anyone have experience with nuforce ha-200 amp? Is it a good amp for the price?
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Check out John Grandberg's review over at Innerfidelity. John's earned my trust on what he has to say about gear. He definitely thinks it's good stuff for the price.
http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/nuforce-ha-200dual-mono-madness#QCt6OJZo44qRgUFs.97 (http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/nuforce-ha-200dual-mono-madness#QCt6OJZo44qRgUFs.97)
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Check out John Grandberg's review over at Innerfidelity. John's earned my trust on what he has to say about gear. He definitely thinks it's good stuff for the price.
http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/nuforce-ha-200dual-mono-madness#QCt6OJZo44qRgUFs.97 (http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/nuforce-ha-200dual-mono-madness#QCt6OJZo44qRgUFs.97)
Thanks, but I need more opinion on people here as well.
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Hello pirates,
I'm here again for an advice for the 650: in my previous post #1346 I asked for an amplifier and Claritas recommended me meier-audio.
I forgot to mention that I own an extra cable Zu Mobius terminated with 4 pin XLR (bought used with the sennheiser), so I'd like to know if it's worth going for a balanced setup or instead selling the cable and continue using the stock one.
Many thanks
Lorenzo
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Thanks, but I need more opinion on people here as well.
So, should I not post that? Moderator, can you please delete my helpfulness which is obviously not helpful please.
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Hello pirates,
I'm here again for an advice for the 650: in my previous post #1346 I asked for an amplifier and Claritas recommended me meier-audio.
I forgot to mention that I own an extra cable Zu Mobius terminated with 4 pin XLR (bought used with the sennheiser), so I'd like to know if it's worth going for a balanced setup or instead selling the cable and continue using the stock one.
Many thanks
Lorenzo
That cable is pretty nice in terms of ergonomics. Soundwise... no idea! But having a balanced cable opens up more opens, although most of the good tube amps for the hd650 will be SE anyways.
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So, should I not post that? Moderator, can you please delete my helpfulness which is obviously not helpful please.
You got me wrong, I mean I read that article you post and I also want more opinion on this as I wont buy it because of 1 person opinion and IIRC many people here dont agree with the man in the article, so I need more opinion from people here, not that I dont need your help.
If the language I use make you misunderstand I apologise, its not my first language.
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There are some here who don't like the HA-200...
But I have owned the monoblocks and I really liked them. My impressions match very closely with John's. I think I even wrote a review on hf somewhere.
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There are some here who don't like the HA-200...
But I have owned the monoblocks and I really liked them. My impressions match very closely with John's. I think I even wrote a review on hf somewhere.
Thanks, Armaegis!