So, is FLAC really messing up a source due to its coding? 

Some will claim so because they hear it, some will claim it can't and probably know more about coding techniques but do not take the possibility of wrongly written code, corrupted programs etc. into account.
It is really easy to hear something when one believes/is sure coding sucks, it also is really easy to say something works flawlessly based on theory of operation.

From a technical point of view it doesn't make a difference UNLESS the coding (or decoding) algorithm do not match or are flawed.
Lets even put the 'theories' about on the fly decoding processor load jitter mumbo jumbo talk aside for a moment or the theory 'something' travels along in the bits.
Maybe one or 2 encoders/decoders are flawed or corrupted and do something wrong.
Impossible to tell unless one studies the actual generated/reconstituted files on that specific computer.
Something MAY be wrong (doesn't have to be) on the equipment the claimer has and may not be so on that of others even when they use the same program.

For instance (different subject though) and have a look at this website: http://src.infinitewave.ca/ and see for yourself how many up/down-sampling algorithms are flawed (select 'sweep' for test result) for instance.
All written by software guys/audio guys and yet a lot of them completely F it up... even highly regarded ones.
The good ones have black backgrounds, as soon as one sees red or yellow lines on the left side you can be sure this is audible.

Makes you think twice about upsampling DAC's as well doesn't it ?
Who wrote the code and did they do a good job ?

The post and reply/discussion don't really belong in this thread though. 

Hello fellow Pirates,

So for a while now I have been using an optical cable to connect my source to the Bifrost Uber DAC. I have 2 different optical cables, Both are mini Toslink to regular Toslink (my Titanium HD uses a mini toslink)

 As shown below:


 
The mini Toslink works perfectly connecting to the Titanium HD,  However both of the optical cables I have do not seem to fit securely in the back of the Bifrost (the regular Toslink connection). It seems like the slightest touch of the cable and it comes out - it fits very loosely in the Optical port on the Bifrost (both optical cables). Do I just have cheap optical cables, or is that just the nature of optical cables? Does anyone have a workaround for this or anyone else have this issue?

Thank you for any input and suggestions, I would really appreciate it.

Thanks!

Thank you for the suggestion. They are both new cables and I just got the Bifrost perhaps a month or two ago. I haven't used the optical cables for anything else. I think I know what you're speaking of though, I have seen pics online where some Toslink cables have like a little metal-like spring hinge that locks it into place, unfortunately neither of my cables have them. Like I said, these cables are a little on the cheap side. The one came with my Titanium HD (since it is a special type Toslink cable (mini Toslink to regular Toslink) but the other one I bought from newegg but it was only about $10. I guess I could try the nail polish, the only thing the worries me about that a little is if after some time if the polish starts to flak off or something if it will damage my DAC - perhaps I am being paranoid.

I sincerely appreciate your suggestion and if anyone else has anty suggestions, spares they don't need, or a link to some good optical cables (reasonable priced but still pretty good) please let me know.

Thanks and thanks again Armaegis.

EDIT:

I realize after doing some research the issue. It isn't the optical cables, it's a little door the covers the optical port that is the problem. For some reason it's missing and that is why the optical cables will not click into place and are loose. I have no idea why there is no optical door there. When I got the Bifrost Uber, there was a black plug covering the optical port which needed to be removed to access the optical port itself to put in an optical cable, but once I removed that there is no optical port little black door to secure the optical cable in place.

Here are some pics to show you what I mean (granted I do not have the USB port on my Uberfrost, but the pictures below show the optical port that I am talking about:

Bifrost Uber with Optical Plug when first bought:



Bifrost Uber after removal of optical plug cover when I first bought it and what it looks like now:



Apparently it is supposed to have some sort of little plastic door covering the port so when you insert an optical cable, the little plastic door swings in, locking the optical cable into place like the pic below:



I don't have this little door. I am not sure if it was included when I bought it or if somehow I damaged it when I removed the plug that was covering the optical port when I first bought it. Is there a way to fix it if I can find that little black door? I have a habit of taking care of my stuff really well and I am sure I could find it. Is there like a hinge or something inside on the optical port that I could snap it back into place?

My Bifrost (one of the first 50 they made) did not have a door on it's optical port, just the plastic plug. My replacement Bifrost some time later (for unrelated issue, source selector didn't change sources) also did not have a door. Every device I've ever owned with optical ports has never had a door, just the plastic plug. I usually end up tossing them out if I'm using optical and using it just fine without any doors.

I don't think it's a door problem. I bought a Monoprice optical cable, the silver one with silver jacket, and have used that as my primary digital connection on my DACMagic, then Bifrost, then Gungnir, and now that I'm on the X-Sabre I'm using USB. I've used this cable on a couple other CD players with no problems. I'd suggest you get one of those.

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10229&cs_id=1022904&p_id=2764&seq=1&format=2

Closest thing out there right now is the LISA.  Question is whether you want to deal with it's bulk.  I'm waiting on something that might be better but won't know until it's a released product. 

Caylx M?

I actually am fine with a full desktop amp. I might get a balanced cable for the UERM and use them with a Mjolnir or something.