The most common causes of equipment buzzing are ground loop issues or DC on the line. The meter readers like to claim that any "competently designed" component power supply is basically "immune" to PL issues, which is a load of horse shit.

I can't say I'm the world's biggest MIT fan, but if it works, it works. There's a boatload of different ways that PLC manufacturers try to combat noise issues, the key is to not over pay by a factor of 1000% :cough: Shunyata :cough:.

I use an SL Waber Wavetracker Noise Filter and Surge Protector which I use in a room with dimmers and buzzing lamp transformers which wreak havoc on the Mjolnir.

The Wavetrack stuff doesn't exist anymore. I think Tripp-Lite bought SL Waber. Tripp-Lite has the Isobar product line now. They are not cheap (caps, chokes, etc. inside), but still fairly priced.

The MIT stuff is the same shit, just more money. Like a lot more. I'm sure MIT's Dragonball Z Duplex Super Uppercut technology is better than Isobar because it sounds much cooler.

AC outlet replacement: http://www.amazon.com/MIT-Z-Duplex-Super-In-wall-Conditioner/dp/B003NTLJ32

I got it for $150 which seems like a good discount.

I use an SL Waber Wavetracker Noise Filter and Surge Protector which I use in a room with dimmers and buzzing lamp transformers which wreak havoc on the Mjolnir.

The Wavetrack stuff doesn't exist anymore. I think Tripp-Lite bought SL Waber. Tripp-Lite has the Isobar product line now. They are not cheap (caps, chokes, etc. inside), but still fairly priced.

The MIT stuff is the same shit, just more money. Like a lot more. I'm sure MIT's Dragonball Z Duplex Super Uppercut technology is better than Isobar because it sounds much cooler.

Here is the one I use. Great stuff.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SL-Waber-8-Outlet-Wavetracker-Isolated-Noise-Filter-Surge-Protector-WT8-15-/260938011290

Those Isobar products do seem fairly priced. I'm wondering how my APC H10 compares to products like these (Dave, I know you commented on it briefly last time I mentioned it, but I forgot what you said, haha). The H10 does a great job sustaining the voltage and all that fun stuff, which is great for the fairly old house we're renting. You can hear the H10 click when voltage drops to boost it (I think?), say, when we've got both computers running and then turn on the microwave. I primarily got it to see if I could reduce the hum from my Sansui 5000A, but either it needs further restoration or I'm not using the H10 properly with all my gearz.

I'm just not sure what outlets to plug all my stuff into! Some are listed for digital filtering, some analog, etc., and I have two outlets that are supposed to be high current vs. all the others. I always get worried the non-high current outlets might be limiting my gear or causing weird filtering issues if I have them plugged in the wrong places. Why things gotta be complicated for a simpleton like myself?

The H10 appears to be a combination of a series type filter and a transformer based voltage regulator, as opposed to say one of APC's UPS models which would use its battery to boost/buck voltage. The click is from the transformer. The transformer is claimed at 1kVA, but that's NOT the same as a 1kVA rated isolation transformer. That's not what it's doing. An iso transformer would be three times bigger and weigh three times as much.

So called "high-current" outlets are a tell tale sign of a series filter (or you can just look inside). Series filters are the most common types and are very inexpensive to make, but their main downsides are that they are generally only effective at filtering noise from around 100kHz on up, and they are current restrictive.

In almost all cases, the analog/digital outlet labels are just suggestions. The filter networks going to each duplex are likely identical, but assuming there's some isolation between each duplex, they are suggesting that you plug your TV or DVD player or cable box or other similar devices into one outlet, and relatively low draw audio components into a different one, rather than just plugging stuff in at random. Assuming you component doesn't draw more than 300 or 400 watts, it should be fine plugged into one of the standard filtered outlets.

How much filtering the high-current outlets get depends on the particular model of conditioner, but IME they are still not capable of passing absolutely everything the wall socket can dish out, the designs just don't allow for that. That's why massive Class A monoblocks or other megawatt amps are best left not plugged in to those types of conditioners. They are much better served by (an admittedly much more expensive) UberBUSS or Adept Response or Running Springs Duke conditioner.