Cool, thanks Dave! Glad I can reference this post now if need be in the future. How would this compare to what ohh posted and the Isobars? (not my area of expertise by any stretch of the imagination...)

Unless I'm missing something, the MIT Dragon Ball Z Budokai Tenkaichi 3 outlet thinger seems to be about as basic as you can get. Likely a noise suppression cap, a little inductor, and a resistor as mentioned above. There's just not a lot of room in there for much else. These little caps can be fairly effective, they are basically what Shunyata was using in all of the Hydra models until they went with the "magic tubes" in their new flagships. The thing though is that they cost about $2. Retail. In quantity, they are probably less than a dollar.

I imagine that there's probably $5-10 worth of components in there, and MIT are not making their outlets in house, so add the cost of a decent Hubbell outlet, again with a quantity discount, and I would guess their cost is $30 tops. A 10X markup is fairly typical for MIT, maybe even less than what they make on their cables.

I'm not familiar with the Wavetrackers, but the Tripp-lite stuff again is pretty standard stuff. Noise suppression caps check, inductors check, choke check, metal oxide varistor for surge suppression check. Honestly if you've seen one of these guys, you've seen them all. It's basically doing the same thing as what the right half of your APC is doing.

What's nice is that Tripp-lite isn't trying to bullshit anybody. $50 for a box of these parts with eight outlets attached is extremely reasonable. Contrast that with say, Chang-Lightspeed, where the stench of bullshit is overpowering.

Should be my last question, sorry for hijacking...given a gaming rig, monitor, vintage stereo receiver for speakers/sub, DAC, HP amp, and the sub I just mentioned, should I put any particular ones in the high-current outlet, or will that not matter so much? I hear receivers are meant for high-current.

Your highest draw devices are likely to be the receiver and subwoofer, so I would put those in the high-current outlet. You can always check exactly how much power they are using with a kill-a-watt or equivalent, but that's likely the best place for them.

Is your computer power supply an active PFC type, or does it have a 115/230 switch on the back?

Gotcha. The one type of power supply that IS largely immune to PL issues is a switch-mode supply with active PFC. They'll happily take anywhere from 100-240V without complaint, and generally aren't bothered by line noise, though I suppose DC buzz may be possible, but I've never come across it. Usually the worst thing that happens is coil whine.

On a similar note, is there any benefit to using a ferroresonsant transformer? I have one of those huge 70lb transformers I use with my expensive headphone equipment. It has a quiet but audible hum, so I need to keep it in a closet (necessitating long cable runs) which is annoying. I got it since I read good things about using big FRTs on Gearslutz and other audiophile forums.

I'm tempted to replace it with that SL Waber Wavetracker Noise Filter. Does it make any noise? I live in a city so the power quality probably isn't very good, but we rarely get lightning storms in the Bay Area, so I'm wondering if it's overkill for insurance against power surges.

Btw, read too many horror stories about MIT ICs reportedly blowing up gear (if you're not using Spectral).

I'm tempted to replace it with that SL Waber Wavetracker Noise Filter. Does it make any noise? I live in a city so the power quality probably isn't very good, but we rarely get lightning storms in the Bay Area, so I'm wondering if it's overkill for insurance against power surges.

Get the Tripplite Isobar since Tripp absorbed SL Waber or something that like. I use it not for surge protection (if lightning hits, nothing really will help much because of arcing), but to kill noise from light ballasts and dimmers which gets into audio components.