Topic: Bottlehead Crack (Read 3741 times)

Hands · « **Reply #60 on:** September 10, 2015, 04:35:29 PM »

Quote from: OJneg on September 10, 2015, 02:04:40 AM

Post pics and maybe we can help doofus. Or maybe MisterRogers can save the day

Yeah, will try to do that when I get back from the Big Sound event. Not sure how much you'll be able to tell given all the stuff in there and the messy wiring.

Quote from: fishski13 on September 10, 2015, 02:55:11 AM

I would start at the source/input and work your way forward. Ohm out the pot/grounds when the channel cuts out. Had a Crack here that would cut out and hum. Turned out to be a bad stock pot. If you need someone to look at it, let me know.

Pot is a stepped one, says ELMA, IIRC. I might hit you up to take a look. Not sure I even have the knowledge in this realm to check what you suggested. Total noob at this area and slowly learning. Tough to learn when info out there assumes you already know what someone is talking about...

Quote from: CEE TEE on September 10, 2015, 05:55:37 AM

Hi Hans, someone earlier in the thread mentioned that switching between new tubes and NOS in the driver socket can cause problems with connection due to differences in pin thickness. Could you try moving the driver tube in the socket to see if the stock socket has some issues?

I suppose it's possible. I didn't start getting the channel cutout (fixed for now?) and hum issues until I tried the 6SN7 adapater and the different 6080 tube. My guess is the driver socket has only used NOS tubes, so maybe it's an issue with the input socket? The 6SN7 adapter does feel a bit loose in there, more so than the 12AU7 tube which is also a bit loose. Wiggling tubes around in the socket makes no change.

Quote from: Riotvan on September 10, 2015, 06:39:50 AM

Yep and you should also do a grounding test: http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=4812.0

Again, might fall outside my horribly limited knowledge on this subject. I can slap things together with a noob-level picture guide, step-by-step, and know enough to solder basic jacks and such. The fact it isn't stock and wasn't built or modified by me makes that slightly more difficult as well.

Anyway, did want to say thanks to everyone offering advice! Will see what I can do.

Quote from: OJneg on September 10, 2015, 07:34:24 AM

GE 5814 + TungSol 5998 seems to be the best match for HD800 so far. Keep in mind that this Crack has a bevvy of other mods and tweaks.

Oh, nice, you have a 5998 tube? How does it sound? I commonly see that listed as the best driver tube for the Crack.

OJneg · « **Reply #61 on:** September 10, 2015, 04:54:38 PM »

Quote from: Hands on September 10, 2015, 04:35:29 PM

Oh, nice, you have a 5998 tube? How does it sound? I commonly see that listed as the best driver tube for the Crack.

Really? Good to know. It's better than both 6080's I have.

Hands · « **Reply #62 on:** September 10, 2015, 05:29:56 PM »

Quote from: OJneg on September 10, 2015, 04:54:38 PM

Really? Good to know. It's better than both 6080's I have.

Better how, exactly? I'm most curious about tone and liquidity/smoothness differences. Wondering if it would be my thing regardless of general technical improvements.

This is an interesting thread. Someone took some distortion and FR measurements with various tubes in the Crack: http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=7853.0

Lots of people were saying the 5998 tubes were one of the best, if not the best, in the Crack. They are pretty hard to find these days and quite expensive.

Riotvan · « **Reply #63 on:** September 10, 2015, 05:39:15 PM »

Hands: the resistance check is not too hard to do, do you have access to the manual? Just give that read through and then you know which terminal is which etc.

About tubes i found the most difference switching driver tubes and not power tubes. I went a little nuts and bougt a 6as7g gec brown base and it was noticable but not as much as switching driver tubes.

OJneg · « **Reply #64 on:** September 10, 2015, 05:48:03 PM »

Quote from: Hands on September 10, 2015, 05:29:56 PM

Better how, exactly? I'm most curious about tone and liquidity/smoothness differences. Wondering if it would be my thing regardless of general technical improvements.

This is an interesting thread. Someone took some distortion and FR measurements with various tubes in the Crack: http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=7853.0

Lots of people were saying the 5998 tubes were one of the best, if not the best, in the Crack. They are pretty hard to find these days and quite expensive.

In simple terms, I think the 5998 lets more of the recording/source through. You can take that for what you will Hans

Lush and laid-back character doesn't go away regardless of tube rolling. 5814 might have slight amount of treble hardness actually. You can plug in dark, veiled-to-shit input tube if you want that to go away, but I'd keep the 5998 regardless. As soon as I get my hands one a wider selection of input tubes I can speak with more certainty.

Hands · « **Reply #65 on:** September 10, 2015, 06:16:11 PM »

Quote from: Riotvan on September 10, 2015, 05:39:15 PM

Hands: the resistance check is not too hard to do, do you have access to the manual? Just give that read through and then you know which terminal is which etc.

Good call. Mine didn't come with one. Found a PDF copy, so maybe I can make good use of that.

Quote from: OJneg on September 10, 2015, 05:48:03 PM

In simple terms, I think the 5998 lets more of the recording/source through. You can take that for what you will Hans

LOL, not much I can take from that.

Relative comparisons to other tubes, gear, etc. is the best way for me to figure out how something might sound aside from hearing it myself. Let me know what you think once you get to try more tubes. I've done a decent amount of tube comparison reading already, but am just curious to hear your own thoughts!

Riotvan · « **Reply #66 on:** September 10, 2015, 06:45:20 PM »

Good Hans luck i'm sure we or otherwise the guys over at the bh forums can sort it out!

JK47 · « **Reply #67 on:** September 13, 2015, 01:40:41 AM »

Crack on sale

Speedball upgrade only $20 till the 18th

http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=8368.0

OJneg · « **Reply #68 on:** September 24, 2015, 11:27:11 PM »

So I did some sanding and finishing. I've also got a Valab stepped attenuator in there now. Will update on new input tubes later tonight

AustinValentine · « **Reply #69 on:** September 25, 2015, 01:33:10 AM »

Quote from: OJneg on September 24, 2015, 11:27:11 PM

So I did some sanding and finishing. I've also got a Valab stepped attenuator in there now. Will update on new input tubes later tonight

Very nice!

Author Topic: Bottlehead Crack (Read 3741 times)

Hands

Re: Bottlehead Crack

OJneg

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Hands

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Riotvan

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OJneg

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Hands

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Riotvan

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JK47

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OJneg

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AustinValentine

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Author Topic: Bottlehead Crack (Read 3741 times)