HP1000 Modification Step-by-Step Instructions

• Take pads off and loosen six hex screws with 5/64" hex wrench. [PICTURE 1]
• The driver should fall out with ease. It shouldn't be glued in.
• Pull the driver and cable out of the cup so you can work on the driver and inside of it.
• Cut a small strip of Creatology foam and line the inside of the cup. [PICTURE 2]
• TIP: Be sure of pre-stick the adhesive to your shirt a few time to weaken the adhesive so the mod is removable.
• Apply a sheet of Creatology foam on top of a piece of Dynamat Extreme. (with the aluminum)
• Use a 3/8" hole bit to drill a hole through the foam/Dynamat sandwich.  [PICTURE 3]
• Cut a circle around the hole that matches the size of the back of the HP1000 driver.
• Apply the foam/Dynamat disc over the HP1000 driver. [PICTURE 4]
• Pull the cable back through, put the driver back on the cup, and secure all six hex screws.

The mod makes the HP1000 less bassy, a bit more forward sounding(more mids and treble), and brings out more plankton. In addition, it also helps with the slight bit of 2-3kHz "shoutyness" (broad bump in CSDs in that area) that Canadians can't seem to hear. Basically, it's a poor man's HP1000i mod without the cables, special burn-in process, cup porosity treatment (new) and Joe Grado's infusing his mojo on it.

It's a more neutral headphone and less "boring" sounding as so many ex-owners have complained about it.