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Author Topic: Driving to "full potential"  (Read 5670 times)

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MuppetFace

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Re: Driving to "full potential"
« Reply #30 on: March 15, 2014, 01:14:03 AM »

In my experience with the HD800 (again using this for convenience of example), it's much more than just a matter of one flavor or another, like wanting a warmer sound or a drier one. I've experienced a genuine improvement in performance when moving to certain amps --- what is commonly referred to as "scalability."

For instance driving the HD800 out of a Beta 22 or Objective 2 just sounds worse to me in most areas than driving it out of a Vali or SPL Phonitor. Which in turn don't sound as good as a Liquid Glass or Zana Deux SE. The most common give-away to me that someone isn't "driving the HD800 to its full potential" is when they complain about a weak bottom end response. When "properly driven" (ie. when the transducer is being controlled well) the HD800 actually has a very hard-hitting and visceral bottom end. This isn't the same to me as just pairing it with a mushier, warmer amp which is more a matter of masking sonic flaws. Rather, the actual transducer subjectively comes alive as it were. The best common-place analogy I've seen is like a flat soda compared to a fresh one.

Keep in mind though it's only the case with some transducers and not others. That's why the whole scalability descriptor was invented, as people realized some headphones have more potential for improvement than others. It goes beyond merely driving the headphones to the proper volume, and experience tells me this isn't BS. Overused by overly defensive people, sure. But not audiophile la la land magical thinking.
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fishski13

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Re: Driving to "full potential"
« Reply #31 on: March 15, 2014, 01:51:38 AM »

In my experience with the HD800 (again using this for convenience of example), it's much more than just a matter of one flavor or another, like wanting a warmer sound or a drier one. I've experienced a genuine improvement in performance when moving to certain amps --- what is commonly referred to as "scalability."

For instance driving the HD800 out of a Beta 22 or Objective 2 just sounds worse to me in most areas than driving it out of a Vali or SPL Phonitor. Which in turn don't sound as good as a Liquid Glass or Zana Deux SE. The most common give-away to me that someone isn't "driving the HD800 to its full potential" is when they complain about a weak bottom end response. When "properly driven" (ie. when the transducer is being controlled well) the HD800 actually has a very hard-hitting and visceral bottom end. This isn't the same to me as just pairing it with a mushier, warmer amp which is more a matter of masking sonic flaws. Rather, the actual transducer subjectively comes alive as it were. The best common-place analogy I've seen is like a flat soda compared to a fresh one.

Keep in mind though it's only the case with some transducers and not others. That's why the whole scalability descriptor was invented, as people realized some headphones have more potential for improvement than others. It goes beyond merely driving the headphones to the proper volume, and experience tells me this isn't BS. Overused by overly defensive people, sure. But not audiophile la la land magical thinking.

the HD800 bass is like a queef - always late and poorly timed.  i've had a difficult time getting the sub-bass and bass freqs to integrate well with sand amps.  it needs more mid-bass or less sub-bass.  with my ears/gears, the best i've heard the Senss was the QRV-08 = "low powered" for sand.   
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Anaxilus

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Re: Driving to "full potential"
« Reply #32 on: March 15, 2014, 02:38:41 AM »

the HD800 bass is like a queef - always late and poorly timed.  i've had a difficult time getting the sub-bass and bass freqs to integrate well with sand amps.  it needs more mid-bass or less sub-bass.  with my ears/gears, the best i've heard the Senss was the QRV-08 = "low powered" for sand.   

Well the sub bass does in fact roll off which is clear when comparing to an ortho like the Abyss when it's performing correctly and/or modded.  As for mid/upper bass, the 800 driven well has always hit well and hard compared to anything from Audeze which has usually sounded anemic in the upper to mid and at times bloomy and soft in the mid to low (an amazing accomplishment...).  Though I don't prefer to use sand amps with it so no comment there.  ;)
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Anaxilus

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Re: Driving to "full potential"
« Reply #33 on: March 15, 2014, 03:12:40 AM »

I'm curious what pirates think of phrases like these that are constantly used to shut down "lesser" amps. As far as I'm concerned, an amp's #1 goal is to get your headphone to listening levels. Beyond that, picking out your favorite is a matter of budget, pairing, distortion, noise, or anything else coloring the analog signal.

Bonus question: what's the point in having gobs and gobs of overhead power? Is there a legitimate reason why HF is so hung up on "more power = better"?

First off, haven't read the contributions to the thread yet so forgive me if I gloss over anyone's points.  This is just my thought and experience on the matter.

This has been discussed ad nauseum here and elsewhere but NO, just no.  Big dynamic sings (both in volume and articulation of speed/transients), micro detail retrieval, ability to essentially grip the driver like its bitch and step out of the way of the recording material. 

The problem is the few oversimplified metrics used by some and limiting performance observed over a small static unit of time.  This is not how we listen to music either live or with headphones or whatever.  To give an automotive analogy, there are those that would have you beleive that you can take a 2000lb Suzuki Swift, strip the interior, put bigger tires and better compound on it, better brakes, and drop in a Corvette LS crate motor making 600-700hp will get you the same benchmarks from 0-60, 70-0, lateral g, 1/4 mile as a McLaren P1.  They could be right in that narrow scope, but on the track the P1 will rip the Suzuki's face off when comparing lap times (how it all comes together rather than dissected).  The problem is audio has been largely content to rely solely on benchmarks and rely on subjectivity for track times largely due to the arrogance of a few who believe science stops when we 'feel' we know it all already because it makes us comfortable to not have to worry about spending money or upgrading.  This is the opposite but same psychological bias that others who spend an extra couple grand on a shinier chassis for an amp have.  Occam's razor tends to cut both ways.

As for dynamic overhead.  I hate to link anything as authoritative from PS Audio so I'm not, but an interesting take on the question was discussed here:

http://www.pstracks.com/pauls-posts/music-math/9706/

http://www.pstracks.com/pauls-posts/riding-crest/9694/

The importance of subjective listening on verifying objective measurements (seems our counter-revolution has had an impact on even the most unlikely converts):

http://benchmarkmedia.com/blogs/news/12838141-headphone-amplifiers-specifications-are-only-part-of-the-story?utm_source=iContact&utm_campaign=5c39d4c702-Weekly_Application_Notes3_12_2014&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_e28f43b8aa-5c39d4c702-125356205
_____

As for getting out the way of recorded material, IME a properly executed SET valve amp does better than 98% of all the sand/transistor based amps I& #039;ve heard.  Their topology is often more wire with gain when one looks at the relatively simple topologies employed by comparison.  The fact that certain measures of distortion are higher yet well below the threshold of the transducer's own set speaks volumes to the significance of chasing decimals and zeros by injecting feedback.  To my ears, this has often resulted in what is akin to killing a cancer patient with chemotherapy.  The cure can often times be worse than the disease.
_____

Also, for those (one person in particular) that think dynamic range only applies to one metric in musical theory, they would be wrong to apply that thinking to measured and observed performance.  Dynamicism is an adjective that can be applied to any metric describing the extreme range of performance of any said metric (volume, transient speed, etc.). 
« Last Edit: March 15, 2014, 03:46:30 AM by Anaxilus »
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AstralStorm

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Re: Driving to "full potential"
« Reply #34 on: March 15, 2014, 04:37:47 AM »

Quote (selected)
As for getting out the way of recorded material, IME a properly executed SET valve amp does better than 98% of all the sand/transistor based amps I've heard.  Their topology is often more wire with gain when one looks at the relatively simple topologies employed by comparison.  The fact that certain measures of distortion are higher yet well below the threshold of the transducer's own set speaks volumes to the significance of chasing decimals and zeros by injecting feedback.  To my ears, this has often resulted in what is akin to killing a cancer patient with chemotherapy.  The cure can often times be worse than the disease.

Run a double blind ABC/HR trial on SET vs transistor vs transformer amplifiers. It's great fun for a meet and takes a bunch of hours for something as hard as amps.

Make sure to measure each properly beforehand so nothing obvious is causing the perceived difference.
(Like the inability to drive your headphone of choice with low THD+N, frequency response issues, voltage matching.)
ABC/HR is like an ABX test, except you not only pick which amp is which, but also decide on quality scores.
A proper one will also feature at least one anchor, as in "known sh1t" - so that the scale is calibrated.
I'd actually use two "sh1t" amplifiers for better calibration.

You need to decide on a number of trials before starting. Oh, and to keep it double-blind, before the results are written down, one person who is switching the cables must not have any direct contact with the people under test. The people must have different connections or else there is a risk of a bandwagon effect. (AKA cheating)

You will need a bunch of good switchboxes. And a large multiple output splitter. By good I mean relatively low capacitance, impedance and not breaking apart, preferably easy to quickly switch.
Oh, and a lotsa cable plus a victim operator of cable switcheroo game unless you have very large switchers.
« Last Edit: March 15, 2014, 05:08:56 AM by Anaxilus »
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Re: Driving to "full potential"
« Reply #35 on: March 15, 2014, 04:48:19 AM »

For instance driving the HD800 out of a Beta 22 or Objective 2 just sounds worse to me in most areas than driving it out of a Vali or SPL Phonitor. Which in turn don't sound as good as a Liquid Glass or Zana Deux SE. The most common give-away to me that someone isn't "driving the HD800 to its full potential" is when they complain about a weak bottom end response. When "properly driven" (ie. when the transducer is being controlled well) the HD800 actually has a very hard-hitting and visceral bottom end. This isn't the same to me as just pairing it with a mushier, warmer amp which is more a matter of masking sonic flaws. Rather, the actual transducer subjectively comes alive as it were. The best common-place analogy I've seen is like a flat soda compared to a fresh one.
I don't know.. I've never heard the bass of the HD 800 as lacking in carbonation (as it were) from even a dinky O2.

My main complaint with the HD 800 is moreso its treble, which has a tendency to misbehave even on some of the most acclaimed pairings. Amp-to-amp, I have generally observed the HD 800 to have the same great strengths and same few weaknesses. This hasn't changed since my first encounter with them in 2010.

The problem is audio has been largely content to rely solely on benchmarks and rely on subjectivity for track times largely due to the arrogance of a few who believe science stops when we 'feel' we know it all already because it makes us comfortable to not have to worry about spending money or upgrading.  This is the opposite but same psychological bias that others who spend an extra couple grand on a shinier chassis for an amp have.
This is a pretty succinct quote, but I wouldn't categorize either camp as necessarily being expedient to circumstance. I would certainly consider myself biased to the former camp but if you asked me in 2009 I would have sided to the latter (participation in a well-executed DBT really changed things). I would agree that either psychological slant affects perceptions.

My take: a well-executed SET amp will offer equivalent linearity and performance to a proper solid state design, but do it with pretty lights.
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Anaxilus

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Re: Driving to "full potential"
« Reply #36 on: March 15, 2014, 04:56:53 AM »

Quote (selected)
As for getting out the way of recorded material, IME a properly executed SET valve amp does better than 98% of all the sand/transistor based amps I've heard.  Their topology is often more wire with gain when one looks at the relatively simple topologies employed by comparison.  The fact that certain measures of distortion are higher yet well below the threshold of the transducer's own set speaks volumes to the significance of chasing decimals and zeros by injecting feedback.  To my ears, this has often resulted in what is akin to killing a cancer patient with chemotherapy.  The cure can often times be worse than the disease.

....

I've done many DBTs and ABxs and don't need to do one everytime someone else feels I need to justify every subjective experience I have to them.  Don't like it then piss off.  The last one I did at the SF meet had audiodyna intentionally swapping sources to make the WA5 sound significantly worse than their SS amp they were shilling.  So I don't think having an unconnected third party absolves a test of 'cheating' or other monkey business especially when they were doing their jedi hand wave technique to try to convince me they were using wav files when they weren't.

If you want to fly out here and set one up with what you think is the best sand amp versus what I think is the best SET amp, feel free, I'll crush your test.  I don't have the time and resources to humor your whims and even if I did the test would be called into question anyway by those with predisposed prejudices.  We've gone through this same crap before w/ the O2, I don't need to repeat what is already historical record.

Here's my challenge:

Anyone can come here and setup a DBT of their choosing except I have to agree to the chain and process to be used and gain familiarity with it.  You pay the setup fees and costs.  If I fail you gain internet fame for all digital eternity, if I win and succeed beyond 90% you pay me $100/hr for wasting my time.
« Last Edit: March 15, 2014, 05:08:31 AM by Anaxilus »
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Maxvla

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Re: Driving to "full potential"
« Reply #37 on: March 15, 2014, 05:18:27 AM »

I don't know.. I've never heard the bass of the HD 800 as lacking in carbonation (as it were) from even a dinky O2.

My main complaint with the HD 800 is moreso its treble, which has a tendency to misbehave even on some of the most acclaimed pairings. Amp-to-amp, I have generally observed the HD 800 to have the same great strengths and same few weaknesses. This hasn't changed since my first encounter with them in 2010.
Ah but there-in lies the fix. Bring the bass to life, overall volume can be dropped, and that piercing treble (as some call it) is no longer. It's not just an EQ fix either. The change to the bass is more than just volume. I notice this easily with the M-Stage vs higher end amps I like. The M-Stage puts out a meager 200mW @ 300ohm and while someone will surely say that is plenty to make HD800s loud I don't know if it's really enough for the entire spectrum.

What about that gigantic impedance spike at ~100Hz, what does that do to the amp-headphone relationship?
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Re: Driving to "full potential"
« Reply #38 on: March 15, 2014, 07:31:07 AM »

As long as you have enough power to reach your comfortable SPL (using your headphone power requirement chart), can you not assume that you have enough voltage as well? What about current?

When under load, if the voltage is there the current is there which also means the power is there.
If an amplifier cannot supply the needed (drawn) current the voltage cannot be reached as well.
An amplifier provides a voltage, under load it needs to provide a current as well.
If any of the two has reached its limit it stops there (voltage, current and thus power wise).

I'm also still a little lost on the point behind overhead power. For example, let's say I always listen at 105dB ( headbang) on Project Ember. I would go to your chart and see the power requirement for my particular set of headphones at 105dB, then I would go to the power output graph for Ember at my particular headphone's impedance. Now that I've found my headphone needs XmW to get to 105dB and Ember provides YmW at the given impedance, all I got to do is make sure that Y>X in order to not have a clipping issue at 105dB, right?

right.

Typically, Y>>>>X and the difference (Y-X) is what I'm referring to as "overhead power". Is this overhead power/voltage being used at all if the headphone is never turned up past 105dB? It seems to me that the only time it would be used is if you wanted to turn the volume up even higher.

That would only be the case if you had just one headphone and an efficient one.
The reason it is a good thing to have a lot of power at your disposal (within limits) is when one is using mixed impedance headphones.
A low impedance headphone needs a higher current capable amp but not much voltage to reach that.
A high impedance headphone needs very little current BUT a higher voltage.
A low impedance headphone that prefers to be driven from a 120Ohm amp needs a higher voltage to reach the high current that is needed.

To be able to drive all types of headphones you need an amp that can provide the high current for low impedance headphones as well as a high voltage.
High voltage x high current = high power.
Not because you need the power but because you may need either a higher current or higher voltage.

I am very fond of Marv's metaphor regarding cars and HP. If you don't plan on turning it "up to eleven", having a ton overhead power is like having 400HP and driving like my grandmother, but at least you can tell your friends!

Indeed but what IF you use that car to drive your grandmother but also use it to drag a heavy trailer now and then ?
Wh at if you live far away from a hospital and need to get there really fast ?

Whether or not you need the dynamic overhead in power also depends on the recording.
Lets say you are listening to an album with a DR6.
This means the difference between average levels and peak levels is 6dB.
So if you listen at a loud 90dB SPL (average) than you can reach peaks of 96dB SPL.
But most audiophiles also like albums/recordings with a DR16 rating.
When this album is played with an average SPL of 90dB you will need to reach 106dB SPL.
10dB more = twice as loud peaks = 10x more power reserve is needed while listening with the same average SPL.

Combine this with the odd chance you want to listen to that same song on different headphones and also like to listen to it really loud once in a while, this would require LOTS more power to avoid clipping. So a more than decent overhead pays itself in these moments.

But in essence MOST of the power an amp can deliver will never be used but if you want to have a universal amp it must be able to supply it.

For non-feedback tube amps the linearity is best for smaller signals.
Higher signal levels means higher distortion where for mucho overall feedback amps this isn't the case.
For that reason, if you want clean sound, it pays to have lots of overhead simply because the distortion remains relatively lower at the same SPL if it can supply a large voltage swing.
« Last Edit: March 15, 2014, 08:13:43 AM by Solderdude »
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Re: Driving to "full potential"
« Reply #39 on: March 15, 2014, 08:26:36 AM »


What about that gigantic impedance spike at ~100Hz, what does that do to the amp-headphone relationship?


It means around 100Hz even less power/current is needed than around 1kHz, 4x less power (2x less current) actually so makes it much easier to drive as most energy in music is concentrated in the lows.


It also means, when driven from say a 120Ohm output resistance amp you will get about 1 dB more bass and 0.5dB more upper treble due to voltage division and as the headphone is 300 Ohm.
1dB more bass is just audible.

The damping current doesn't even change that much (EMF/300 or EMF/420) just 0.3x less damping.
The damping factor with a low output R amp is around 3000 and of the 120Ohm amp is around 2.5.
Damping factor may differ a factor 1000 but there is NOT much difference in actual damping current, a factor 1.4.

Of course this doesn't explain what is heard by some and that's the beauty of this hobby.
There is 'room' for various views with plenty of headroom for beautiful theories.

Audio = electronics, mechanics, acoustics, perception... not merely one of them.
They are difficult to separate them completely as all aspects influence each other.
All of them hold some surprises in store but think (I am biased) that the electronics part of it is 'best known/quantifiable' though those with less to no electronics knowledge will surely disagree for lots of reasons.


« Last Edit: March 15, 2014, 08:41:09 AM by Solderdude »
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