CHANGSTAR: Audiophile Headphone Reviews and Early 90s Style BBS
Lobby => Headphone Measurements => Topic started by: Marvey on April 16, 2012, 03:44:27 AM
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Magnum v4 Martin Audio Custom Woodies Frequency Response
By Request
The bass characteristics are the result of the black "comfy" SR60/80 style pads. The bass peaks and rolls off at too high a frequency. This could also be an effect of the custom cups.
(http://www.changstar.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=220.0;attach=844;image)
Grado RS-1 for reference - Flat TTVJ Pads.
(http://www.changstar.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=44.0;attach=208;image)
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Thanks for providing the graph.
Quite interesting, but my ears tell me that the V4's have better bass extension and do not roll off quite as quickly as both the previous versions and the RS1. I am using bowls and flats though.
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Bowls and flats will be different because they seal against your ear better. Same reason putting tape around the bowl pads increases bass. The comfies are the most open air pads. It's interesting that the upper frequencies are so similar even though they have different pads.
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i've got a pair of these from Martin, falling apart though...
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The problem about the FWJs is the wood gimbals, which break easily. Aluminum or stock Grado plastic gimbals are the way to go.
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I know... :( Shit happens.
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Am I missing something? or is this not a pretty horrid looking/soundg graph/headphone?
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(http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/7656/schermafbeelding2013031m.png)
Have been trying some EQ with the magnum's. They respond very much to eq'ing, I didn't want to go beyond any 6db correction.
Its sounds much better with the EQ off :-\, is it a bad EQ, or am I doing something terribly wrong?
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You probably did a good job. Just a few notes on EQ overall (not necessarily to you, but to others who want to try this stuff):- Light EQ correction is best. I don't like to correct more than +/- 3db for a total range of 6db. If a driver wants to do something, there's only really only so much can you do.
- Don't bother EQ'ing (pushing up) low bass unless it's a subwoofer with sufficient headroom. All you are going to do is introduce more distortion (e.g., more 60Hz harmonic than the 30Hz which you are actually trying to correct).
- Likewise, to a lesser extent don't bother EQ'ing high treble.
- In accord with #1 (light touch on EQ), I tend to push down peaks more than push up troughs, especially if they are narrow. Dips tend to be more difficult to hear.
- Parametric EQ is better than graphic EQ in most situations.
- Finally, it's important to NEVER take measurements as the final word. Use your ears. I when EQ speakers, the final touches are always based on what I hear. The measurements are simply a starting point.
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Thanks purrin, I will try some more with your tips! :)p7
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You probably did a good job. Just a few notes on EQ overall (not necessarily to you, but to others who want to try this stuff):- Light EQ correction is best. I don't like to correct more than +/- 3db for a total range of 6db. If a driver wants to do something, there's only really only so much can you do.
- Don't bother EQ'ing (pushing up) low bass unless it's a subwoofer with sufficient headroom. All you are going to do is introduce more distortion (e.g., more 60Hz harmonic than the 30Hz which you are actually trying to correct).
- Likewise, to a lesser extent don't bother EQ'ing high treble.
- In accord with #1 (light touch on EQ), I tend to push down peaks more than push up troughs, especially if they are narrow. Dips tend to be more difficult to hear.
- Parametric EQ is better than graphic EQ in most situations.
- Finally, it's important to NEVER take measurements as the final word. Use your ears. I when EQ speakers, the final touches are always based on what I hear. The measurements are simply a starting point.
Pretty much aligned with my thoughts regarding EQ as well, which is why I facepalm real hard when some peeps EQ like this (http://www.changstar.com/index.php/topic,848.msg20932.html#msg20932) :-X
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Yes EQ can help a little, but I'v learned not to expect wonders.
Purrin, do you think the magnums would also benefit from the foam mod you did on your HP1000's? Where would I be able to get that foam?
btw where the RS-1 was terrible with piano music, the magnum's are actually good.
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Because the magnums are highly colored, I would tend to leave it alone and according to John Grado's vision. I feel strongly that the RS-1 / Magnum response deserves the very specific cheap-ass vibrating porous wood that which John Grado provides. The resonant wood actually does funky stuff to the decay which gives the package its charm. That's just my opinion.
The HP1000 is already fairly neutral for a headphone. It requires non-resonant aluminum cups, foam mods, or Joe Grado's special sticky goo to keep the package as neutral as possible so the driver can do its thing.
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My magnum's are fully modified by Symphones lab. There is no wood or plastic, just aluminum.
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Ok, attempt no. 3
Its much better now, its sounds better with the EQ than without. Its subtle, but its almost like when you turn off the EQ an exciter turns on. It gives a short wow-effect followed by a head-ache :)p13 With the EQ the sound is much more conform, more body, not etchy or sibilant! :)p7
(http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/7500/schermafbeelding2013031.png)
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Well you could be a little more aggressive on the EQ...