CHANGSTAR: Audiophile Headphone Reviews and Early 90s Style BBS
Lobby => Speakers => Topic started by: OJneg on August 15, 2015, 01:24:17 AM
-
Knock down cabinet came today:
http://www.parts-express.com/denovo-audio-knock-down-mdf-30-cu-ft-subwoofer-cabinet-for-dayton-audio-15-ultimax-subwoo--300-7082
(http://i.imgur.com/RlIQ202.jpg)
Will be logging process here. Cool thing is since this is going to be passive I can roll woofers in there. I expect this thread will be fun
-
reserved
-
I suggest a comparison between an efficient pro woofer with lower xmax, higher efficiency, but less extension compared to one of those modern super low efficiency subwoofers with 160mm xmax and ultra low extension.
-
There's no replacement for displacement.
Two 15" woofers to even out your room will be epic.
I'm actually thinking of modernizing my woofer setup. I sold all of my elemental designs woofers locally and will be following this thread pretty closely to see progress :)
-
I suggest a comparison between an efficient pro woofer with lower xmax, higher efficiency, but less extension compared to one of those modern super low efficiency subwoofers with 160mm xmax and ultra low extension.
Yeah, that's what's on my mind. Any suggestions for low efficiency, heavier cone? The Dayton ones are competent I assume? Or should I go all out with an AE woofer?
-
Vastly underestimated amount of polyfill I had left. Where can I get similar stuff, preferably at Walmart or physical location?
I'm guessing this shit works the same? http://www.walmart.com/ip/Olfa-Spinning-Rotary-Mat-12-X12/14003373
Another thing, after reading crazy Magico engineer talk about how screws holding frame to wood is a bad idea, is there any simple way I can get around it? Probably nothing but since I might change drivers/damping I foresee the coupling getting worse
-
I would go with an ultra long throw woofer. It is all about linear air volume displacement.
For mounting the woofers to the box, I recommend using T-nuts or threaded inserts.
-
I would go with an ultra long throw woofer. It is all about linear air volume displacement.
For mounting the woofers to the box, I recommend using T-nuts or threaded inserts.
Any models in particular?
Of course mirrors in my house are shaking now. Playing with crossovers in Jriver right now
-
I would look for a very high quality car audio subwoofer. They are designed to operate in smaller sealed enclosures, whereas pro audio woofers are typically designed to be used in large vented enclosures. Here's an example for a possibly good car woofer: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500WR1522D/Alpine-SWR-1522D.html (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500WR1522D/Alpine-SWR-1522D.html)
-
I wouldn't have gone 15'', very limited choice of drivers at this size. IMO 12'' is the optimum driver size for subs, if you need extra surface, plonk an extra twelver in there. For extra cool points mount two 12''ers in a force canceling config.
Also agree with mr. North here - look for surrounds that look like superbike tires and anvil sized magnets. Class D power is cheap these days, so make sure you've got enough juice to rock. If you're running sealed, consider looking into Linkwitz transform.
-
I wanted to go with Dayton Ref subs but the car subs idea seems good too, would love to see your build's evaluations and how they come along.
-
Subwoofer under desk:
(http://i.imgur.com/18D3kPJ.jpg)
FR at listening position with NegMonitors:
(http://i.imgur.com/k85Jmgu.png)
Signal routing is a bit complex using Jriver it goes like this:
Jriver (allpass) > Hilo USB Channel 1&2 -> Line-out (6dBV) -> d1 relay attenuator -> Parasound Z-amp > NegMonitors
Jriver (JRSS 100Hz lowpass) > Hilo USB Channel 4 > Monitor-out (24dBu) > Crest CA -> NegSub
-15dB on attenuator corresponds to -40.5dB on Monitor-out attenuation for the given response. For listening I adjust each control individually. I am guilty of turning up sub on thinner recordings.
Sounds good.
-
A jbl 2226 15" driver would been great to experiment with. They can take crap load abuse. They're were used in theater and pro use. I have a 4648-8a theater sub with dual 2226j 15" woofers and they can seriously take some abuse and can handle more power then they're rated for but, might not be something everyone be fond of cause the 4648 sub is heavey at 150lbs and really bulky... But, that's that cab. I just continue use original cab cause it's insanely built well and insanely braced even though the cab is beat to shit.
-
A jbl 2226 15" driver would been great to experiment with. They can take crap load abuse. They're were used in theater and pro use. I have a 4648-8a theater sub with dual 2226j 15" woofers and they can seriously take some abuse and can handle more power then they're rated for but, might not be something everyone be fond of cause the 4648 sub is heavey at 150lbs and really bulky... But, that's that cab. I just continue use original cab cause it's insanely built well and insanely braced even though the cab is beat to shit.
Thanks Rex. I'm curious about a better high-efficiency pro-audio driver. Basically an Alpha 15A with bigger magnet, more linearity, lower Fs, better performer all around. I like the 15A better sealed than OB. Will look into that one.
-
Don't get obsessive about specs or T/S parameters. It doesn't better than these JBL drivers (although JBL is EXPENSIVE). There are tricks for making pro drivers such as this into a sub: take advantage of its super efficiency and typical room nodes. This means EBS alignment (larger box and port frequency lower than is usual) and crossing over lower than most people would do per spec. Think outside of the box. Trade the efficiency for bass extension. That being said, you would need a LOT of internal volume... maybe 3-5 cubic feet or more. (I haven't crunched numbers, but this is a guess, and
your PEX DIY cabinet probably wouldn't work).
There are a lot of drivers with the right specs... but most end up sounding craptastic.
-
Yea. The jbl is also rated for long excursion same with other good pro woofers so they will be able to sustain the really low frequencies well. Jbls are pricey unless going in used market and even then it's hit or miss. I got lucky with mine cause they were missing dustcaps and cabs ruffed up with rough scratches and chip here and there on the cab but, didn't care as long they worked I was happy and didn't mind putting work into them.
The peavey low maxx and low riders have deeper cuts in the magnets for that very reason. You can trade the efficiency a bit for extra extension especially if you have the amp that can make up for the 3 or so db loss.
Peavey subs are not bad and not bad price especially for their performance. Only other thing I like bout them too is they're completely field replaceable so you can just unbolt the fried driver and place new basket in and you'll be good to go. Not built like jbls but are not bad either if you give them a low crossover point. Lot of pro woofers don't sound bad. Only time where one shines over the other is when you cross them over too high... Most pro woofers don't do well above 800-1.5khz but, never expect them too since they were designed and meant for low frequency use.