Lobby > Speakers
15" Subwoofer Build
OJneg:
Vastly underestimated amount of polyfill I had left. Where can I get similar stuff, preferably at Walmart or physical location?
I'm guessing this shit works the same? http://www.walmart.com/ip/Olfa-Spinning-Rotary-Mat-12-X12/14003373
Another thing, after reading crazy Magico engineer talk about how screws holding frame to wood is a bad idea, is there any simple way I can get around it? Probably nothing but since I might change drivers/damping I foresee the coupling getting worse
Donald North:
I would go with an ultra long throw woofer. It is all about linear air volume displacement.
For mounting the woofers to the box, I recommend using T-nuts or threaded inserts.
OJneg:
--- Quote from: Donald North on August 15, 2015, 06:08:01 AM ---I would go with an ultra long throw woofer. It is all about linear air volume displacement.
For mounting the woofers to the box, I recommend using T-nuts or threaded inserts.
--- End quote ---
Any models in particular?
Of course mirrors in my house are shaking now. Playing with crossovers in Jriver right now
Donald North:
I would look for a very high quality car audio subwoofer. They are designed to operate in smaller sealed enclosures, whereas pro audio woofers are typically designed to be used in large vented enclosures. Here's an example for a possibly good car woofer: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500WR1522D/Alpine-SWR-1522D.html
Hroðulf:
I wouldn't have gone 15'', very limited choice of drivers at this size. IMO 12'' is the optimum driver size for subs, if you need extra surface, plonk an extra twelver in there. For extra cool points mount two 12''ers in a force canceling config.
Also agree with mr. North here - look for surrounds that look like superbike tires and anvil sized magnets. Class D power is cheap these days, so make sure you've got enough juice to rock. If you're running sealed, consider looking into Linkwitz transform.
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