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The Suit Thread

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Kunlun:
It's the Changstar Suit Thread!

This is the place to share any and suit knowledge you have acquired. Do you go bespoke, off the rack or a combination of off the rack plus extensive after-tailoring?


It's time I bought a nice suit that fits and feels good for wine-and-dine, mafia meetings and funerals (in that order). I have no real idea, so all your comments will be appreciated!

Anaxilus:
Bespoke or off the rack tailored. Armani was the nicest fitting off the rack IME but might as well go all in. As an amusing aside, all Marine dress uniform Alphas are tailored twice over the period of two to three weeks at Boot Camp, and Dress Blue Bravos done on your own. Easiest way to spot a fake or movie actor.

https://www.google.com/search?q=marine+corps+dress+alpha&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=25M5VYjiNoXRsAWlloD4Ag&ved=0CC8QsAQ&biw=1248&bih=710#imgrc=_

Claritas:
I've gotten most of my suits made-to-measure from Charlie Davidson at The Andover Shop in Cambridge. It's traditional American, but he can do anything Anglo. Besides the obvious detail-work, such as surgeon's cuffs (working button holes), he has his own bells and whistles such as a little loop behind the left lapel to hold a flower stem in place. He also has a private collection upstairs, a sort of museum, which includes one of the suits he made for Pres. Kennedy that was never picked up after the assassination.

Made-to-measure is the best value. In New York, Bergdorf's has the best selection of the different houses. Paul Stuart is very good quality but they made only American style (mostly Canadian-made like Charlie) and their lapels are too wide: 4" on everything regardless of length/height?

kothganesh:
Got a collection of bespoke and off the rack. Pretty simple tastes for me - most of time went with Brooks Brothers. I do have a couple of Armani suits (off the rack) which I picked up in Seoul during the 1997 currency crisis. Talk about a huge bargain. The guy was so desperate to get inventory off that he had the tailor do the minor alterations in a couple of hours and dropped them off at my hotel.

kothganesh:
Gotta share this with you as well... during the pan-Asia trip in 1997, I was in HK right after Seoul. Friend of mine took me to this tailor who measured us, stitched 3 suits and 3 shirts each for a grand total of $400 per person. We were in HK for just 2 days and the turn around time was phenomenal. Fit was so good I still have them !

Joch (in the watches thread) commented on this so if you know the right person to take you, you can get real bargains.

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