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Author Topic: The Suit Thread  (Read 1151 times)

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Kunlun

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The Suit Thread
« on: April 24, 2015, 12:46:36 AM »
It's the Changstar Suit Thread!

This is the place to share any and suit knowledge you have acquired. Do you go bespoke, off the rack or a combination of off the rack plus extensive after-tailoring?


It's time I bought a nice suit that fits and feels good for wine-and-dine, mafia meetings and funerals (in that order). I have no real idea, so all your comments will be appreciated!
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Anaxilus

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Re: The Suit Thread
« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2015, 01:03:37 AM »
Bespoke or off the rack tailored. Armani was the nicest fitting off the rack IME but might as well go all in. As an amusing aside, all Marine dress uniform Alphas are tailored twice over the period of two to three weeks at Boot Camp, and Dress Blue Bravos done on your own. Easiest way to spot a fake or movie actor.

https://www.google.com/search?q=marine+corps+dress+alpha&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=25M5VYjiNoXRsAWlloD4Ag&ved=0CC8QsAQ&biw=1248&bih=710#imgrc=_
« Last Edit: April 24, 2015, 01:24:34 AM by Anaxilus »
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Claritas

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Re: The Suit Thread
« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2015, 02:34:52 AM »
I've gotten most of my suits made-to-measure from Charlie Davidson at The Andover Shop in Cambridge. It's traditional American, but he can do anything Anglo. Besides the obvious detail-work, such as surgeon's cuffs (working button holes), he has his own bells and whistles such as a little loop behind the left lapel to hold a flower stem in place. He also has a private collection upstairs, a sort of museum, which includes one of the suits he made for Pres. Kennedy that was never picked up after the assassination.

Made-to-measure is the best value. In New York, Bergdorf's has the best selection of the different houses. Paul Stuart is very good quality but they made only American style (mostly Canadian-made like Charlie) and their lapels are too wide: 4" on everything regardless of length/height?
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kothganesh

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Re: The Suit Thread
« Reply #3 on: April 24, 2015, 03:55:14 AM »
Got a collection of bespoke and off the rack. Pretty simple tastes for me - most of time went with Brooks Brothers. I do have a couple of Armani suits (off the rack) which I picked up in Seoul during the 1997 currency crisis. Talk about a huge bargain. The guy was so desperate to get inventory off that he had the tailor do the minor alterations in a couple of hours and dropped them off at my hotel.
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kothganesh

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Re: The Suit Thread
« Reply #4 on: April 24, 2015, 04:02:04 AM »
Gotta share this with you as well... during the pan-Asia trip in 1997, I was in HK right after Seoul. Friend of mine took me to this tailor who measured us, stitched 3 suits and 3 shirts each for a grand total of $400 per person. We were in HK for just 2 days and the turn around time was phenomenal. Fit was so good I still have them !

Joch (in the watches thread) commented on this so if you know the right person to take you, you can get real bargains.
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joch

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Re: The Suit Thread
« Reply #5 on: April 24, 2015, 05:00:32 AM »
Love the title: The Suit Thread (pun intended?)

If you guys are out in HK, give me a shout.

Most of my "work" shirts are bespoke (it's actually cheaper than a brand name shirt that will be too baggy), with the exception of proper button down shirts from Brooks Brothers. I gotta have my button downs from BB.

I hardly wear suits anymore, but have several that are tailored.

Reasons to go bespoke (shirt, suit):
fitted to you -- there's nothing like it because the proper tailor will note the curvature of your spine, the slope of your shoulders
customization -- the fabric color, the pattern, thread count, weave. You can get Loro Piana cloth, made to a zoot suit style with pink lining.
cost -- competitive to better off the rack makers. Might be cheaper.

@kothganesh -- Did you go to Sam's? they have a fast turnaround. BTW, some of the better tailor shops here are not even Chinese, but run by local Indian and Pakistani HKers hahaha

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kothganesh

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Re: The Suit Thread
« Reply #6 on: April 24, 2015, 06:04:11 AM »
Joch,

this was in 1997 so I have no clue on the name. And yes, the tailor was Indian :)
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Cryptowolf

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Re: The Suit Thread
« Reply #7 on: April 24, 2015, 02:26:51 PM »
A good place to start is to find suit styles that work for you with off the rack.  The Italian and English styles have lots of design elements that tend to define them.  Each name brand house has a fit that tends to work best for certain body types.

I personally prefer English style suits with soft shoulders, double vents, and hacking pockets.  J. Press fits me well enough that I can often find suits on e-bay that require minor tailoring.

I wouldn't jump into bespoke until you have a better sense of your personal style. When you do go bespoke, start with a navy or gray suit since it is the most versatile.
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Kunlun

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Re: The Suit Thread
« Reply #8 on: April 24, 2015, 08:47:33 PM »
Good advice, thanks guys!

I'm told Suit Supply is a good source in Manhattan and a Bonobos is opening up down the street which I'll stick my head in before heading over to Bergdorf. I'll look around and try to get a sense of styles before picking up a navy suit as a starter.
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Cryptowolf

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Re: The Suit Thread
« Reply #9 on: April 25, 2015, 03:10:35 PM »
I'm glad I could help.  I work in a "business casual" environment, so I wear a sport coat and slacks most days.

Another suggestion when you go bespoke, buy two pairs of pants with the suit jacket.  This way you can wear them as separates on more casual days without too much concern.  I find that my pants wear out long before my jackets.

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