you dredge distant memories , fond ones non the less.

I really liked the work of Tony Gee - http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/download.html , looks like his main focus is kits now but when he started it was all about experimenting. I first read about series crossovers on his webpages and moddified the crossover of the speakers I was building to a series crossover and the improvement was not small.

His andromeda sounds along the lines of what you are trying to do http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/download/Humble%20Homemade%20Hifi_Andromeda%20Mk-I_copy.pdf , it might give you some ideas.

The biggest pain when I was building speakers was the cabinetry , that CNC is going to save you much cursing and spanner throwing.

Just to keep ideas afloat, did you consider planar or ribbon tweeters / midrange units. They are generally pricey if you buy them retail but there is so much turn around on diy audio that it would make it worth keeping an eye open.

If I were to do it again, I would opt for an isobarik bass chamber, a ribbon ( but I prefer the simplicity of a 2 way - for a 3 way , probably look for a good soft dome upper bass / lower mid unit )

..dB

you dredge distant memories , fond ones non the less.

I really liked the work of Tony Gee - http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/download.html , looks like his main focus is kits now but when he started it was all about experimenting. I first read about series crossovers on his webpages and moddified the crossover of the speakers I was building to a series crossover and the improvement was not small.

..dB

Oh yeah, I love that guy. I've long studied his designs.

My previous builds used more expensive metal drivers (the Seas magnesium stuff) with horrible ringing that required complex crossovers with steep slopes, but this time around, I wanted to see if I could get away with simpler crossover designs, a la Thiel. I figure could always go crazy later with active circuitry and fancy drivers. The idea behind this speaker is really an efficient 2-way with a "sub" crossed over very high at 150Hz. The efficiency is why I'll be using two woofers. I'll be crossing over one woofer at a different spot to account for baffle step - a good way to "cheat" - something I've done with success before.

Some of the best sounding drivers are really inefficient - but I've since sold my big power amps. So compromises will need to be made. That's what its all about anyways. The fun part really is with the final voicing.

I think so. It definitely sounds fun and interesting, but I have no idea what the project entails or how much work is involved so I was going to see how yours went. Looks to be a good idea for hands on learning. If you're not starting until closer to August, I'll have some time to do some pre-research.

I'll let you know how it progresses. LFF and Anax are in. We can get slight discounts on high volume parts orders.

At least the commercial sold First Watt stuff is somewhat reasonably priced. I'm hoping Anax can get away with his 3 watt Super 7 on the mid/highs and then we use a separate cheap power amp for the bass.

I've got kids now so I don't want to throw "money" to solve problems. Although I'm tempted by this driver:

http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-6-midrange/accuton-c173-6-090-6.5-ceramic-cone-midrange/

Highly efficient and well behaved.

LOL , talk about blowing the budget. They are tres sexy but I would encourage you no to  lose your focus. You can build a superb system within budget , as you well know

Just a thought, have you thought of an active bass section? A 300w D amp - drive it off the speaker taps with a simple attenuation network as if you were driving headphones.

I will stfu now ..dB

Wow....that ceramic driver would kill my budget in one swift stroke.